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Comments
Again, you do not have to make a decision right away. You can purchase this warranty at any time within the factory bumper-to-bumper warranty period. I know, the dealership(s) will tell you otherwise, but they are simply trying to pressure you into buying immediately.
YMMV.
However, folks like you are great for those who want to buy CPO cars with factory warranties for a fraction of the new price... that can be a great deal if you shop right, there are a lot of cars coming off 24- or 36-month leases in great shape.
It is sad, but I know many people who do not know life after car payments.... :sick:
But, if you do not plan to keep the car for as long as you spent paying for it, leasing may be the way to go. I am not criticizing your choice; it is just likely to be more expensive over the long term. It does have its advantages, though, in that the risks and commitments associated with ownership are removed.
Pay cash, not interest. Drive for at least 10 years.
A set of tires costs about 1-2 car payments. If I own my 4 or 6 yr. old car and have no car loan, then that's a lot cheaper than a new car or new lease. Same as to many many other costs you seek to avoid by moving to a new car: the approach works for you but may not make sense to others.
Factoring in the complete lack of equity in a lease situation, in many cases leasing is not the most cost effective way (not to mention the absurd mileage limitations and overage charges, which alone disqualify leasing as a sound alternative for many) ... in some cases it is, and for those folks I am very happy.
For the rest, a lease may be a good way to stay in a newer car, but you pay for the privilege. There are no hard & fast rules.
Not that private buyers are not lowballers either.... :sick:
We have $500 saved up already.
Ours will end up being free. You can buy it within the first 3 years, so by then we'll have enough that it won't cost us a penny.
This is the worst rack I have ever seen. It looks cute at first but if you are a real outdoor enthusiast you will be disappointed with the lousy cross bar spread which cant be adjusted. All after market racks(e.g THULE) would have to be attached to the crappy factory cross bars.
A major let down.
The average touring kayak is about 16-17' (mine is 16'7"), and I routinely see 18'-19' models, so the bar spread of the older model is more suitable to transporting the longer length "touring" or "sea" kayaks.
Does anyone know the max bar spread distance? Its got to be better than that of the Baja!
Only weird thing was that the dealer of course looked at my trade, and when I left my supplemental airbags/seatbelt malfunction light came on in my current car (which I have never seen before). I turned around and asked them what they did and they swear it was not them. So hopefully there is not foul play at all, but I will get it checked out ASAP. I am hoping it's a just a protest from my Xterra, which has been a great car, but it's time for something new.
So now I just have to wait
However, it appears that you did not handle the Xterra with the sensitivity it required and she is now going to pout for eight weeks. I suggest an apology, a sincere thank you for her faithful service, a kiss on the hood, and perhaps burning a subaru brochure in front of her headlights (use a spare). Hell hath no fury like a trade-in scorned...
Check out this link if you want a review from a real rack specialist
http://rackattackportland.wordpress.com/2009/07/02/new-series-cars-of-the-future- -a-rack-installers-opinion-part-1-2010-subaru-outback.
Cheers!
Maybe I should threaten it with the crusher? :sick:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1eb494/18#MSG18
Dead in the water does not matter. They are going to practice on it. We get a receipt from the school's money lady, etc. for tax purposes.
Thank you, again, for taking the time to mention this; it had not even crossed my mind.
Thanks for any feedback!
Thanks!
I have realized that in the entire IL there is not a single dealer that carries Outback Premiums without All Weather Package (looking with CVT trans). Originally I looked at the Outback basic model and the best price I got was $22680 (24600). But when I wanted to go step up realized all cars come with a lot of extras that I did not want and were costing me extra. the best quote I got on Outback 2.5i Premium w/All-Weather Pkg was 25300 msrp ($26900). What are your experience and what were the best quotes you got or price that you paid?
If you were complaining that you couldn't find a base 3.6R I would be sympathetic. A base 3.6R is about as rare as finding an albino unicorn. Or a red headed big foot.
The only other thing would be to sit on a seat pad that raised you up a bit more.
I think seat comfort is critically important so make sure you sort that out before you buy it.
cslasor: the Magnussen-Moss Warranty Act protects you - the car can be serviced at any shop that meets the OE standards. It doesn't have to be done by a dealership. Save your receipts and document all your maintenance, and you should be fine.
Please list the MSRP and the price you have negotiated.
I have been looking and getting some quotes but wanted to see what other have experienced.
My best price for Outback Premium (AWP) was MSRP:$26990 price offered was $25300 plus all the fees and taxes.
Thanks
The time to pick from a large selection of new 09's was this spring before the clunkers bill. Hindsight is 20/20 & you can't change that.
Is this a CPO car? If you like it, make your best deal. It doesn't help you being so far from the dealer because he will know that its more difficult for you to walk away - the very best negotiating strategy. Find out why its for sale after only 11K miles (I have 14K on mine bought new in March) and walk if its been in a wreck.
Thanks
Also considered the Venza. I Iike the Subaru better.
I've usually sold my cars outright and do pretty well instead of trading. This time I will probably go the trade route and save the tax differential, the headache of selling and hassle of courtesy trade. I would think 2004 Forester should go for 8-9K private sale pretty quickly. Check Edmunds and KBB if you haven't.
Thanks!
Jeff
Oh, opinions on the car deal? Sounds like you did fine. Edmunds trade-in value for the Forester was 7770 if in "clean" condition (second highest condition), less in "average" condition, and the base "X" model. Trading in saved you sales tax on the 7500, so you would have had to sell privately for 7500 + the sales tax just to be the same as this deal. And good luck finding anyone who can actually pay for something today. I used to sell privately, but lately, have been trading in as well.
Do post your reviews. Good luck!
This was the offer I got
MSRP: $24,690. Offered at $22,890 (destination included)
So not sure it this helps but this should be the maximum you should pay for Outback 2.5i plus Title tax and other documentation feed.
Congrats.
I am about to buy the same one as yours, 2010 Outback 2.5i, no extra.
You mind tell me which dealer you got the price from? I am in bay area, and the best price I can get is 23480 + TTL. Thank you.
Dealer in NW suburb of Chicago.
MSRP $25990
Dealer's price today:------------------------------- $23750 plus
Documentation --------- --------------------- $ 151.00
Electronic registration--- -------------------------$25.00
Taxes-----7.75% Cook County-------- -----$1,854.26
Transfer plates-------------------------- -----------$150.00
TOTAL OTD PRICE ****** $ 25930 ****
Man, Outback is becoming more and more popular in Bay area. Probably cannot get such decent deal like in Chicago. sigh.....
Not much has challenged Subuar reputation in all the above areas. So other than another Forester I did not consider anything else seriously.
I briefly considered an A4 Avant coming from a satisfying A4 experience Interior a little too small, too expensive & couldn't see taking it down dirt roads or towing my boat with it.
My son recently got a VW Tigean. I drove from San Diego to Seattle in it with him. Nice car, comfortable, good power & handlng, but cargo area pitifully small, can't get over 25 mpg, & too pricey for Dad.
A year ago, I thought a 2010 Forester was a slam dunk for our next car. Then came the 2010 Outback & I had to reconsider. I did also considered waiting for a Diesel version, but decided that since we ony drive about 15,000 mile per year & will probably sell after 7 years that the gas version would be fine for us -- plus I was not willing to wait 6-12 months on the chance that we might get the diesel in the US.
I have been spending way too much time on this forum & subaruoutback.org since June reading about the Outback & have driven it twice. We recently spent a week new Forester rental car around Yosemite & Mammoth. It was comfortable and performed well on the highways (a bit too much shifting on the high passes) and on some snow covered trails. We could live happily with a new Forester (or the old one for that matter). But I have the chronic car buyer bug & can hardly stand to keep a car for more than 2 -4 years. I sold the O3 Forester XS MT for $11,700 (52,000 miles) last week.
As much as we like the Forester, the OB with the CVT (had CVTs in A4 & Honda & love em) and greatly enhanced comfort & mpg won out. I may miss the nimbleness of a smaller car, but at 60 more space comfort won out -- besides it is really replacing my wife's rather plush A4 & will become our trip car. I will be driving a driving my ghetto cruiser - a 93 Honda Del Sol.
So today weI ordered a new Graphite Grey OB Limited 2.5i PZEV CVT with moon roof, Nav (really only wanted the backup camera & was too lazy & intimidated to do it myself), puddle lights,wheel arch trim, tow package (my boat & bike rack have 1.25" hitches), rear bumper cover, Auto dim mirror w compass & Homelink, rear side cargo nets. Sticker was $32,767. VIP price (2% below invoice) was $30,209. Plus we had $1,500 Subaru Bucks. so our final cash price was $28,730. A great price for a great no haggle deal - the internet gal was easy to work with & a bit flabbergasted when she realized that the cash price without a trade was $ $4037 below MSRP. I feel really blessed to be able to get such a nice car for that.
Proposed delivery date is Dec 15. As long as it arrives by Dec 31 so we can save another $800 on the sales tax deduction I will be more than pleased!
If you can plan ahead, it surely pays to use the Chase Subaru Card for 3% Subbie Bucks & get on a VIP program. Details about these can be found in this forum under Subaru Bucks & VIP program.
My next challenge is to crack the 35 mpg barrier after our new OB is broken in
Without all the information gathered on Edmunds I may have not known about Subbie Bucks, VIP, & gotten so much great feed back on questions about Subaru products. It is just what a car / information junkie needs :P Many thanks to all you regular posters & the editors. I am going to have to take a sabbatical for a while but will still be hanging around from time to time.