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Comments
The Chase card is great. I just purchased my Forester last month and already have another $500 Bucks.
Quotes from 2 dealers - base model 2.5i CVT - full MSRP (24,990)! And 3500 on my trade-in '02 Forester manual, 93K miles, clean, but torn trim on one door side bumper. Found out a colleague was offered 23,499 yesterday for it.
Other dealer started at 24,660 and said we could negotiate, but needs to locate a car (none on his lot).
MSRP here is 24,990 so both offers seem way too high to me.
Will sell my Forester privately for 5500 (am I giving it away???)
So - puzzled on what to offer. Advice?
Should I go up to premium, which they have many more of on the lot?
Am I giving away my '02 Forester for $5500?
Thanks!
Trying to buy an OB in Maine sounds stressful! Sorry to hear that. My advice would be to use the internet and phone to secure the best offer before going into a dealer. Most dealers have internet depts which usually provide the most agressive pricing for cars. Check out the dealer websites and request an online quote on the OB you want. A lot of negotiating can take place via email. If you are willing to travel out-of-state you might be able to save some more money. Sometimes even just securing an email quote from the out-of-state dealer, then calling a couple local dealers to see if they can come close. Let them know you would rather buy local and see what happens.
As far as your '02 Forester - I think kbb.com has the closest trade-in value estimator, but look somewhere between fair and good for realistic pricing. Autotrader.com used to have, they might still (can't find it), a trade-in guarantee which I used as a base for my trade. You can enter all the info about your car, defects, issues, extras, etc and it will give you a realistic trade-in amount that some dealers will honor no questions asked. I ended up negotiating mine $300 above this "guaranteed" price and left the table delighted. Plus you can sell your car on there or search for other Foresters like yours to see what people are asking.
I hope that helps. Good Luck!
So when selling a used car, I will typically display the KBB "private party sale" price. But, I'm also prepared for the fact that this is probably being a bit optimistic, especially if the buyer has already seen the typically-lower Edmunds.com price!
Personally, if your local dealers are not willing to give you a decent price, even if you factory order the car, I would head south and grab one in PA or MD for around, if not below, invoice. Maine is only a hop, skip, and a jump away.
I had a chance to met and talk to a lot of people that eater bought or are looking for new Outback. This all happened over the last month. One guy was a sales manager in Bolder Co Subaru dealer now works here. They all concluded the magic number on Subaru Outback should be anywhere between 8% to 10% off the msrp. Right now some of the dealers are hipping up the prices but if you do not get the price I mention, wait or talk to other dealers.
Some of the dealers are still not fully stocked, so they are using temporary shortage in their advantage.It will take another moth to be fully stocked and prices will adjust to the numbers mentioned.
Leather is easier to clean, but it can wrinkle if you leave a child seat there long enough.
If the only reason you wanted a Limited was the leather, you could consider getting a Premium and getting aftermarket leather later. I say "later" because the kits for a 2010 model may not be ready yet. Google "aftermarket leather" and read what people say about it. There are a couple of respected makers and your dealer or a local shop could put it on.
I had a Thanksgiving time line, too. But I've been slow to pull the trigger. So now I'm looking for a cargo box for the old car and the trip to grandma's.
In terms of the moonroof - I didn't really want it, but my car has it. I'm 6'4", and have no headroom issues at all, even with the moonroof. This may be due to the fact that the power seats have a fair amount of height adjustment. I find that with the steering wheel in it's highest tilt adjustment, I still need to keep the seat fairly low, so that the steering wheel doesn't feel too low (if that makes sense....).
Also dealers showing phoney prices as one stated VIP program was only a couple hundred cheaper (I won't be eligible till early '10). His "invoice price" listed as "dealer cost" was damn near msrp, and his msrp was inflated.
Give them credit card number to charge a deposit of $100 - $200 to hold the car for you for today so they can't come out an excuse of sold your car before your arrival anf put you to another different offer again.
Now there is still a possibility of the manager sayin " Oh! Sorry the salesman made a mistake and we can't honor that price." To avoid this you can ask the manager (not the salesman) to email you the numbers or send you a signed draft with manager's signature.
Tell them you need this to be done because you don't want to meet any SURPRISE when you close the deal down there.
25758 car
1350 leather
2338 tax
75 dealer reg app fee
158 DMV re-reg fee
10 Inspection
167 filing fee
13NYS tire fee
$29871 OTD
Could of prob. gotten some of the fees reduced and/or had the car for "real" invoice as I was shooting for but was in no mood to haggle. Car is in transit and expected this week. I'm thinking of removing leather and living with the cloth for a year or two and replace leather pure aftermarket. Anyone have any recommendations for aftermarket leather on long island NY?
As said by another, do the whole thing via email & get a fax (or otherwise) copy of the sales agreement before you even walk in the door. And tell them in advance that is how you will buy the car, and if they want the sale instead of some other dealer or mfr getting it, they will comply.
BTW bring in your own financing. They will gyp you all over the place if you go with theirs. We are getting ours from husb's credit union.
Please do not let this tarnish your hopes for a Subaru. I too had a unpleasant experience at the first Subaru dealer I went to (even with an A rating), which led me to cautiously find another dealer (I wasn't ready to give up on Subaru yet). After lots of calls and emails, I found the right one, less than an hours drive away. I ordered my Subaru with ease, locked in pricing, trade, and warranties in writing.
Now please go online and file that complaint (and maybe send the complaint to Subaru too), if more of us filed these complaints, maybe things would change.
Good Luck! Please let me know how you make out.
I'm going to buy very soon using the VIP program and don't ever wish to support such a dealership.
Anyone in Maryland, Virginia or West Viriginia buy a 2010 Outback recently?
Please share the price and the dealer experience.
Thanks!
Just took possession of my factory-ordered 2010 Outback Limited with Nav on Saturday, October 31, 2009. Bought it from Stohlman Automotive (Subaru, VW, Mitsubishi) in Vienna, VA. Honest, reputable dealership, no hassle, got it for $500 below dealer invoice via internet sales and phone negotiations.
I did not have a good experience with Sheehy Subaru in Springfield, VA, the first Subaru dealership I dealt with. I was given the run-around by their internet sales manager when I wanted to order my car during clunkers month. He would not give me a bottom-line price even after he called me and said he ordered my car the day C4C officially ended. I told him without numbers, I would have to take my business elsewhere and I did. He never even called to find out why or try to win my business back.
I finally saw "my car" on Sheehy's inventory web page at the beginning of October and after a week it passed to Farrish Subaru (who actually called me saying the car had my name on it on the invoice and they tried to sell it to me). After a week at Farrish, it made its way to Beyer Subaru. After a week there, I lost track of it, although, just out of curiosity, I called Beyer Subaru and asked about it and they said it was still in their inventory and didn't know why it wasn't showing up on their web page. I don't know if it was sold or not or shipped to another dealer.
Sheehy would have had a done deal - don't know why they did what they did. They probably thought they could sell it and make more money - I guess they couldn't.
Stohlman was quick, easy and no pressure even in the finance department. I did not try to bargain for anything else during the sales contract signing process since I had done all my negotiating up front before ordering the car. Plus, they honored a 2 month-old appraisal of $1,000 for my 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan trade-in with a dent on the rear right panel, AC in need of a $2,000+ repair and almost 140,000 miles. Even though KBB gave a quote of $1,500 for a fair condition trade, I didn't think I would get anything for my van, so I was happy with the total deal.
If you are going to buy in Northern VA, definitely give Stohlman a chance. Their internet sales department (via e-mails) also guarantees they will beat any deal by $150. All around, a great car-buying experience with them.
Do you have the remote starter installed on your vehicle? I believe this is a dealer installed option. I need feedback how good or bad this is...
I just recently purchased a 3.6 R premium from metric subaru
on Long Island. I also got the remote start. All in all I paid 29,500 and I will always recommend the dealership for purchasing and service. As for the car itself, I like it a lot, mostly. Great acceleration, VERY QUIET as compared to my 2004 forester. My quirks with it are the rear defrost is hard to find at night. Im not 100% sold on the electric brake, and why the fixed side mirrors? other than that a pretty decent car.
But it sounds like you have bigger problems than the doc fees. What about other dealers in your area, instead of going out of state?
For your trade-in...see if you can obtain the autotrader.com guarantee and check if any local dealers will honor it, that's the best way to secure your trade in (or try selling it yourself).
Also, overstock.com now has a spot where you can enter the info on the car you want and they provide guaranteed pricing from local or semi-local dealers. The pricing was pretty good and it might give you an idea of what price you should be asking for. Hope that helps! Good luck and shop wisely
i have posted earlier on this topic. The base model CVT (no additional options), i got this price; MSRP: $24,690. Offered at $22,890 (destination included) excludes tax and registration. This price was offered without any real negotiation (possibly could go lower). The premium model OB price was around thousand dollars more.
Be carefully today most dealers are trying to squeeze as much as possible out of you.
They try to use this temporary shortage, and make big money. If you could wait that would be the best option for you. I have been looking for a while and there are some crazy things happening, I decided to wait until the end of this month or even next month.
Dealers have some ridicules stories to tell just just to sell the car, makes you feel like this is it, if I do not buy now this car will be gone. Guess what, they will get more of the same cars.This is not selling until supplies lasts, because they keep ordering more.
Winter months and the Holidays are coming soon, dealers will be seeing less and less people in their showrooms, this can be used in your advantage if you can wait. End of November and end of December are generally the best times of year to buy cars. You will see some steep discounts I grantee you.
Most people feel buying a car is a game, and you have to play it smart.
Did the dealer install the remote start? Does the remote start work as advertised? Please provide feedback. Thanks!
As another post suggested, focus on your out-the-door price.
When you make the offer to the dealer, tell him "this includes the doc fees".
Let the dealer figure out what is acceptable.
My opinion is that doc fees should be called "guaranteed profit". It is 100% profit for the dealer. It is upto consumers to fight these fees and walk away from these dealers.
Can you believe that some dealers are asking for $600 in doc fees in Virginia?
And here is a tip - in MD that fee is limited to $99. I shopped and found $400 fees in VA, vs. $99 fees in MD.
I basically asked them to e-mail me an out-the-door-price, saying I need to write a Cashier's Check for the exact amount. It was accurate, even down to the penny. It also takes pressure off for the add-ons they try to pad pricing with.
"Whatever you can give me for this exact price" then point to the check. Of course that requires that you either pay cash or arrange financing on your own.
The dealers in Virginia have become too greedy. $400 to $600 in doc fees is unacceptable. I am ready to drive all the way to Pennsylvania - anything to avoid junk and bogus charges.
But...didn't matter, I shopped out-the-door price, fees included.
Thanks. Yes, I did get the remote engine starter along with the moonroof and nav, puddle lights, rearview mirror with Homelink, all the cargo nets, security sensor upgrade, XM satellite radio and protection package to include wheel locks, rear bumper cover, splash guards, wheel arch moldings, and all-weather mats.
I have only tried the remote engine starter once this week since getting my car. Once you unlock the car the engine will stop and you need to use the key to start the ignition again. I think it is more for warming the car in winter or cooling it in summer than anything else. I usually drive from my garage at home to my garage at work and back home again, only stopping off to buy groceries, so I don't know how often I will really use the remote engine starter.
I have never had all these goodies in a vehicle so I got a lot of stuff - probably more than what I need or will use on a regular basis. I will know better with my next new vehicle purchase - probably 10 years from now!.
I have not yet had the chance to read through all my documentation to figure out how to set everything up and how it all works but I'm sure once I do, I will use everything more regularly.