Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Yes, it came with the lifetime powertrain warranty and 3 year standard warranty as well.
I had printouts from sites like this with people quoting prices they had gotten. I also pulled printouts from yahoo cars etc with great deals, even if they weren't 'exactly local'...I would, in fact, drive a couple of hundred of miles to save a couple of thousand dollars etc....
I am not sure what they did to lower the price, but I do know they were very motivated because it was a 2008 and 'said' they lost money on it. (Who knows if that is really true, I sure don't know.)
Again, sorry for the delay in responding. Good luck!
Love'n my Jeep, now it's time to play and accessorize!!!! :shades:
Any thoughts anyone.
Unless there were changes during a model year, an early build and a late build will depreciate equally.
Buying last year's model can be a gamble though, unless you get a really good price or intend to keep it for ten years.
For you, now is probably a good time to buy as you obviously have no time pressure and can afford to look around and compare deals.
Any thoughts????
I thought I read in previous posts members buying theirs for a few thousand less than the employee price plus rebates.
The next question will only lead to speculative answers, but with the current incentives scheduled to end thursday, but the impending problems Chrysler is having is there a good chance rebates will improve, or at least the financing go to 60 months? Thanks in advance. Also is that $29K a pretty good deal on a fairly loaded rubi unlimited?
for $28,900 last summer with no incentives. I'd think you should be able to do better than I did in this economy.
1. Why would I want a Sahara rather than an X/Sport?
2. With the factory shutdowns, should availabilty of a particular model w/options be a significant problem?
3. Is the Edmunds TMV a negotiating starting point?
Thanks.
The sahara also comes with a host of power features and a better suspension, not to mention the exterior differences.
Buy the x if you want to get into the cheapest jeep possible, buy the sahara if you want a more capable off roader with the ability to make it a true trail rig down the road. Buy the rubicon if you want a trail ready rig with lifetime warranty straight off the lot. If you upgrade the other two with aftermarket stuff you run the risk of jepordizing the warranty, and believe me the new owners of Chrystler will look for any way possible to not honor your waranty. So buy what you think you will need.
I believe the prices right now may be as high as they will be for a while. THey dont have any incentives to speak of, because they cant afford to offer them right now. Best bet is to stay on the fence untill fall, the deals will roll then. You may not get the exact color, or what ever, but you will probably be able to buy a sahara for the cost of an X right now.
Sahara: 18" wheels, painted fenders, tinted windows, "premium" cloth seats, keyless entry, side steps, and upgraded stereo options.
I know in 08 the "X" had a few options that were not available to the Sahara; sway bar disconnect, rear locker, and half doors. You may want those options if they are of interest to you.
There is a big price difference between the X and Sahara, and not too big between the Sahara and Rubicon. You need to decide what the primary purpose for buying the Jeep is and go with the option that best suits your needs and budget.
Just a reply to busman01 inquery...
Check out the Wrangler X with the 24S package. It has the 44 rear, all power options(if thats what you want), heavy duty suspension, and 17" wheels/tires...I have an 08 with the 24S package, still beats the price of a Sahara with just a few less goodies. Good luck!
~Mike
Something else came to mind. Can anyone explain the need for the "dual top"? Why would you want a soft and hard top on at the same time? Wouldn't that create extra weight?
Again thanks.
I am debating whether or not now is the time to jump in on an 09 Unlimited Sahara. I just started the bidding process with a couple of local dealers. I'm seeing 09 Unlimiteds with a few options (remote starter here, dual top there), typically between $31 and $33 to start, going for $4500 less even before you step into teh dealership.
How does this sound? Is there more room to play, or should I be patient and let the "restructuring" play out for a bit? Any thoughts would be appreciated!
I ended up getting a sweet deal on an 07 Sahara, soft top, 20K miles, super clean for about $22k. Paid for an extended warranty, but it was a much better deal. It seems that there is more give in the used market for the unlimiteds these days.
Hope that helps!
Some people with finance already set up or cash, and with no trade, got truly amazing deals! :surprise:
When will ordering for 2010s begin? I am not in a hurry, so I don't have to order one this year.
However, most dealers will try to unload an in stock unit on you as it's costing them money to keep it on the lot, so just be firm.
Bottom line is that you need to negotiate the best price 'out the door', that is the total cost to you to drive it away either with or without the actual cost of tax, tag, and title as those are not negotiable.
It doesn't matter how the dealer arrives at that 'out the door' price as long as the figure is one that you're happy with.
If the dealer wants to allocate $500 to paperwork and $1000 to preparation don't let it worry you, as long as the final price is the one you want to pay.
The OTD price is the easiest and simplest way to compare deals between one dealership and another.
1) I used Edmunds TVP true value pricing and was excited about the quote. Have you found this accurate?
2) I gleaned that the MSRP is basically an inflated price that you would be nuts agreeing to, Correct? In fact the "list price" would qualify as well? correct?
3) One dealership offered 0 % financing. So I asked if ( I did that Free credit report online) I had no negative information using Free credit report would that QUALIFY for their acceptance for zero percent financing. And the girl on the phone said YES, however I'm not sure what the SALESPERSON will say, So do I need to get my "Credit Score?" or will the Free credit report (Expirion,Equifax,I forget the last one) suffice to the dealer??
Lastly, I just want a basic jeep. Wrangler x, automatic, air condition....I'm figuring around $ 20,000 ??? sound about right???
I found one which has the limited slip differential, 3.73 axle ratio and floor mats option
I proposed the offer below
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------
Total Selling Price: 23,914.00
( Invoice listed every where, like Kelly Blue Book, NADA)
Waste Tire and Bettery: 6.50
Fee and Service: 799.00
Total Taxable Amount: 24719.50
Tax: 1483.14
License/Title/Registration: 282.00
Incentive (1000.00)
Discount on mis fee (200.00)
--------------------------------------------
Out to Door: 25284.14
The dealer gave me this number $26,134 out the door and refused to continue
the negotiation.
How do I move on?
the negotiation.
How do I move on?
Do it literally, you'll need to speak with several dealers before you get the price you want.
Incidentally, you should be able to do better OTD than invoice plus fixed costs.
Remember that whatever offer you make, the salesman will almost always try to bump you up somewhat; it's his job after all.
Had you offered $1K under invoice for that Unlimited he might have come back with a figure you could accept.
Keep this in mind when (assuming it to be true) you hear of an excellent deal someone else got.
It didn't happen because the dealership was feeling generous that day, it happened because someone made a low offer and was prepared only to come up to the price they really wanted to pay.
One final point, there are now many fewer dealerships to negotiate with than in the past, which means less competition between them. Prices aren't likely to be as low as they have been in recent years for a long time into the future.
mac24, my quote is basically
invoice + dealer fee + tax - 1000 dollar incentive
Are you suggesting my initial quote to be
(invoice - 1000 dollars) + dealer fee + tax - 1000 dollar incentive?
If so, I am going to try one more time near the end of this month
with a different contact information.
The other dealer, I asked for a price quote, and they barely came off the sticker price by several hundred, so I felt like it was going to be a 4-hour bickering session at either dealer, so I passed on them.
(invoice - 1000 dollars) + dealer fee + tax - 1000 dollar incentive?
Correct. In other words, $1K less than your original offer might have enabled you to haggle back up to the price you originally wanted...............or they might have thrown you out the door!
Keep in mind that while it's easy to increase your offer, it's virtually impossible to lower it.
He may have been telling the truth. Depending on how long they've been on the lot, two identical vehicles may be worth very different amounts to the dealer.
The other dealer, I asked for a price quote, and they barely came off the sticker price by several hundred, so I felt like it was going to be a 4-hour bickering session at either dealer, so I passed on them.
Most of the better deals come after several hours of negotiation I'm afraid, and when they don't, when the dealer accepts your first offer, you immediately think you must have offered too much.
However, being prepared to walk away is just part of the process of negotiation.
You may have to kiss quite a few frogs before you find a prince.
Eeep! My ideal is to get to a price the dealer and I agree on in about a 1/2 hour. And, there was going to be a trade involved, so I definitely wouldn't want to spend 4 hours negotiating the new car price + 4 hours negotiating trade price.
A couple dealers I talked to were 50 - 70 miles away, so I don't want to go there if something really can't be worked out. I sometimes wish we could use something like a mutual auction site where they posted their car (like on eBay) with pictures, and I posted my car with pictures, CARFAX (or similar), and I bid on their car and they bid on mine, so you agreed on both prices (with minor contingencies), before going to the dealer. One dealer was willing to start the trade process over the phone, but we didn't get that far after I asked him some questions about the vehicle he had in stock and decided I wasn't going to buy it.
Sorry, that's a way too sensible expectation! :P
guy.
:<
1. The dealer was a jerk for bragging like that.
2. The person who bought it PAID TOO MUCH. A. At least that wasn't you. B. The dealer was probably telling that person you were going to pay MSRP.
3. They are making more Wranglers, so don't worry.
guy.
Well, now you know that the dealer is a jackass- and almost certainly a liar as well. There are plenty of other Wranglers and Jeep dealers to choose from
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I've been reading this thread regarding current pricing on JK's and want to mention that the dealerships are no longer making their "bonus" levels by selling huge quantities of cars. We enjoyed low prices, and good negotiations when the dealers where making their profits off the bonuses for selling mass quantities of vehicles.
With those bonuses levels now being impossible to meet, they must make as much money as possible on each individual deal.
Make the best deal you can, but honestly don't expect to get the deals we were getting last year.
No, I don't work for a car dealership (I'm a stay at home mom with a Rubicon JKU)
but have friends in the industry.
that buyer could not be qualified for a loan.
He asked me to negotiage on site. But he also said that
this vehicle will be upgraded with bigger tire and wheel if I do not buy
it this week.
I guess he is just trying to play a game to create some kind of "URGENCY".
Anyway, I will see him this weekend
The goal has always been to try to make as much money as possible!
Bonuses or not, cars should have price breaks just like everything else.
Post the details of your car here: Real-World Trade-In Values
Someone may be able to give you a value for it..
Also, check out the market.... There aren't many cars from '95 that will bring, $5000... even those that originally sold for a lot more than a Wrangler.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
He lied to you, and now he wants you to go back and play games on his terms! :surprise:
Why would you reward him with the prospect of your business? Why? :confuse:
Wrangler 4x4 unlimited X manual transmission, base model + 3.37 ratio + anti spin differential
Thank you guys for all the advices.
trade in value as my start point. Dealer does not want to take it, but a friend of
him took my with cash for the "GOOD" blue book trade in value.
Had I know this, I would start with private party price.