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Mazda RX-8 Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • liquid1liquid1 Member Posts: 4
    I was considering on purchasing a new RX. I need a reliable car, one that doesn't have constant problems. Would you guys consider this car as being unreliable?
  • cheezeboycheezeboy Member Posts: 218
    drove my AT - 5700 miles, 17 states in 21 days.........never had a problem......excellent car.

    I have 32K as of today. Only thing I need is new tires!....
  • secondcitysecondcity Member Posts: 28
    Any advice on repairing scratches on the wheels? My wife scratched my front right passenger side rim, along the outer edge where it almost meets the rubber, while parking along the side of a curb. Its not too noticeable-but noticeable enough to aggravate me. Any advice (besides not letting her drive my car)?
  • lhesslhess Member Posts: 379
    i scratched mine myself on a curb and it makes me sick every time I wash the car.
  • ukjimukjim Member Posts: 63
    ........I had the dealer install a modification to the dipstick to prevent "cream" build up at the top. When pulled out, the stick had a white plastic or teflon tube pushed hard onto the "barbed' portion at the top of the stick. The tube was so long that only about 3/4" of the stick was exposed. I checked the oil over the weekend and now the white tube has disappeared! I can only assume that it has slipped off the top of the dipstick and is now sitting in the bottom of the dipstick tube. Anyone else seen this and is there any reason to be concerned?

    On other issues, my 6 speed now has 9K miles and no problems with loss of power or anything else for that matter, it runs great. The cooling fan does run for a long time after shut down tho, at least 10 minutes!

    I too have scratched a rear wheel, :cry: the low profile tires give you no margin for error, just have to be careful.
  • flatpickflatpick Member Posts: 43
    ATM Machine did me in....some nice gouges front passenger rim trying to get close enough ATM machine....yeah I got close enough...careful people...I didn't hear much of any noise as I ground 1/2 in bites in my rims! :cry: :mad: :cry:
  • lhesslhess Member Posts: 379
    for a co-worker. I don't go near McD's for me personally, but it was pouring the rain and I tried to get under that little bitty canopy they have over the order screen and, that's all folks! Mine was at less than 2500 miles. I have a moment of silence every time I wash that particular wheel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    The wheels are "painted" with a very thick plastic paint. You could use touch up paint to cover up small scratches. We stripped a set of the stock wheels and had them powder coated to match the car. Had to use an "aircraft" stripper solution that is "access controlled", meaning they don't just sell it to anybody.
  • lhesslhess Member Posts: 379
    and they had some scrapes as well. the seller stated that he could repair them for $60 a wheel before he shipped. I wondered how he would "fix" them, but I didn't realize they were painted. Thanks for the info.
  • calimancaliman Member Posts: 1
    This is the second time in 4 months and my RX-8 won't start.

    When the car is turned off before the engine has reached certain temperature, you are risking engine choke...and the car will NOT start. No crankin the engine in the world..or pumpin the gas paddle will make it work!
    First time the problem happened Mazda dealership told me they need to update the computer chip, and the problem should go away.
    Today I called to report the same starting problem..and the answer is..well you probably guessed it! They have one more computer update which should make the problem go away!
    On the bright side: I am glad I leased my RX instead of finance, and I pay only $ 250.00 a month. Once the lease is up this car is going back to Mazda! nice ride..but too much headache!
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    I'll post this once again.

    This is a "flooding" problem, and has been with the rotary from the beginning. It's main cause is at very low rpm (cranking speed for example) the rotary has very poor sealing of the combustion chambers. This is also why it idles so poorly. It idles great above 1200 rpm or so.

    If you add too much fuel it will soak the spark plugs, partially shorting them out. When cold (below operating temp. - probably below about 60 deg. C coolant temp for reference), the engine is in "choke mode" - injecting extra fuel for a "cold" engine. Normally, any extra fuel will be ejected by normal pumping action of the engine, but at low rpm the rotary is poor at this pumping action, so the fuel can build up and short the plugs. Then you're really in trouble. The fuel can't leak "down" into the crankcase in a rotary due to its' design - there isn't a path into the equivalent of the crankcase in a rotary. So the fuel just builds up.

    UNFLOODING
    The solution Mazda used in 1989 was to give us a way to pump out the fuel without adding more. When you press the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold it there, then crank the engine the injectors will not inject fuel into the engine. The pumping action is still poor and the spark plugs are still partially shorted, so you will have to crank the engine for a while - it will typically take several minutes to clear it out so the plugs can ignite what is left. Crank for 10-15 sec. intervals, with 30 sec. between to allow the starter to cool. DO NOT release the accelerator from the floor during this episode of "unflooding" until it fires.

    The RX-8 added further problems that Mazda hadn't seen before. The program changes you mention included adding a delay in adding the additional fuel until the engine is running. The initial program started "choke mode" instantly when the engine fired - they delayed that and that change helped a lot to reduce the flooding customers experienced.

    FLOODING AVOIDANCE
    To avoid flooding DO NOT TOUCH the accelerator when starting the engine. Make sure you let the engine warm up a bit before you shut it off so it is no longer in "choke mode". Rev. up the engine to around 3-5 thousand rpm, release the accelerator pedal then turn off the key and let the engine coast down - the injectors will stop when you turn off the key and the engine coasting down will pump out any extra fuel.

    I am constantly starting up a cold RX-8 and shutting it off when testing certain electronics we build for the car. I have never (knock on wood) flooded it. I have never flooded (knock on wood) my RX-7. I follow the above. It seems to work for me!
  • rx8worldrx8world Member Posts: 28
    Hi guys...and girls :) i've been wathing this forum for a long time now and i found it very interesting.I've read all the disgussions about "rough idle" but i want to know something...except of all the known symptoms ,do you hear(when in idle) a strange cranking noise under and outside drivers seat?from the engine perhaps or from the first section of the exhaust???
    I have another point too.In earlier messages there was a disgussion about egine coolant leaking from pin heads from inside the engine.The answer from their dealers was "you will need a new engine or a reconditioned one". Well,i had the same problem but it was caused by electrolysis(i dont know if it is the right word...i am from cyprus and excuse my english :) )....back to the subject....so,my mechanic changed both the pin heads and put a different material so i would't have the same prob again.He installed also an earthing kit.My car is very healthy....no compression lost...no power loss no nothing....exept of the rough idle which i had been told that is something normal for rotary engines.Thats all.....any suggestion about that noise would be appreciated. :shades:
  • lhesslhess Member Posts: 379
    from the area you mentioned but I do hear my brakes occassionally. They have told me on this board that the brakes will make popping or thunking noises as they calibrate themselves. I notice it right as I begin backing up (I have to back out of my parking spot, so I always begin with a back-up). Could that be it? If so, it is normal.

    Is this noise happening when moving or sitting still?
  • rx8worldrx8world Member Posts: 28
    no...it's not the brakes...i am familiar with the calibration noise.When the car is stopped and the engine is running(and i am outside the car) i can hear it.This happens exactly when the exhaust pipes make that "pouf pouf" sound.Usually it happens every 5-6 seconds and after the engine is warmed up.I was talking to a friend earlier and he told me that might be the adjustment for the "air to fuel ratio". .....hmmmm :) and oups..i forgot to mention something,here in Cyprus we drive at the left side of the road so....MY drivers side is Yours
    passenger side...
  • gil_in_atlgil_in_atl Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a new 2005 RX-8 and found out it emits a high pitched beeping sound when the car gets above 75 mph. It continues to do this until I get the speed back down below 74 mph. And no, it is not above 8k rpm (actually it is around 4k rpm when it does this. And no, it is not the pressure in the tires that is causing this. Since I had just purchased the car the day before I should of just asked for a new one, but I didn't b/c I was sure the dealership would take care of me ASAP. Sadly, this has not happened. My car has been in at the dealership for 4 days now and I never got any call backs from them reassuring me that the problem would be fixed and giving me an estimated time. Can you beleive they set me up with a peice of crap rental car with enerprise that is charging me $15 a day and I purchased a $31,000 car from them 3 weeks ago. Needless to say I wasn't pleased and it wasn't until I got the general manager on the phone that I got some answers. He is first of all reimbersing me for the charges of the rental car and is giving me an RX-8 to drive until mine is fixed. He said that this is a known issue and that they are being sent a disk to re-program my car so that this stops. Unfortunately I am going to have to wait until Monday at the earliest to get my car back. If you are thinking about buying a Mazda in the future from Team Mazda in Atlanta Ga. on Thorton rd. you may want to reconsider. I am an easy going guy and never once raised my voice to them about this, but until I got in touch with the general manager and my salesman I was getting a big "SCREW YOU" from everyone else.
  • lhesslhess Member Posts: 379
    but could it possibly be something to do with the metals in the exhaust system heating and expanding? A friend has a new GMC Yukon and the exhaust system on it is down-right annoying with all the popping and cracking it does. they were told it is perfectly normal. Just a guess here!!

    gil in atl...that beep would absolutely wear me out. I hate car noises (rattles, beeps, bongs) that won't stop. What a strange problem too. Sorry to hear the dealer is low life - Mazda backs their cars up with a loaner program and your dealer should be honoring that without you getting ugly on them.

    Is that a problem exclusive to the 05's? Never heard of it before and my 04 doesn't do it. Good luck getting it fixed. And, remember, the car is GREAT, you will love it once you get it fixed. Look around and find a dealer who will take good care of you. Mine is great but it's quite a distance from Atlanta to WV!!
  • ukjimukjim Member Posts: 63
    This isnt going to help much but I will pass it on anyway, maybe make you feel a bit better.

    A friend recently purchased a new BMW Z4 3.0 in MA. She took it into Inskip BMW in RI for some minor warranty repairs. When she asked about a loaner she was told that Inskip will only provide a "free" loaner:
    1 if the car was purchased there, & 2, if she had purchased a premium service package that would include the "free" loaner. Hows that for adding insult to injury on a $43K car!

    I had owned a BMW in CA and Long Beach BMW always gave me a free loaner, so I followed up with BMW US and they said that the availability of loaners, free or othewise, was at the discretion of the dealership (Mercedes dealers take note!). Inskip BMW btw also has an Enterprise dealership and they offer a reduced rental fee, obviously Enterprise has come up with a winning business model by putting outlets in dealership service offices.

    Having said all that, my Mazda Dealership, Vashon in MA did give me a free loaner when I left my RX8 for a scheduled service, go figure.
  • rx8worldrx8world Member Posts: 28
    Maybe the metals....that sounds logical.Thanks a lot man.Another one question...at idle how many rpm should the engine work?
    I love my 8 very much....it's been a year that i've purchased it and every time i drive it i feel as happy as the first day. :shades:
  • wpavlik2wpavlik2 Member Posts: 32
    I thought we got free loaners for any warranty service work done on our cars?
    This is from Mazda, not from the dealership.
    I had some warranty work done on my car and I got the rental. Granted, I had to show them a credit card to get it, but that was all. nothin was charged to my card.
  • flatpickflatpick Member Posts: 43
    I kept hearing and feeling a vibration in the rear when at idle sometimes....rev it up and it goes away....so I get out and look....squeak/vibration is coming from exhaust....there's some rubber bushings in the connection to supports that are there to prevent such noise/vibration..etc, but they are not getting the job done.

    Might just be simple adjustment or some new bushings, but still an annoying inconvienance for car this new.

    Also,,,,anyone else having the chrome/silver finish on their shift knob flaking off?
    Another PIA to deal with....

    Yes its fun to drive...lets leave it at that.
  • ukjimukjim Member Posts: 63
    "Also,,,,anyone else having the chrome/silver finish on their shift knob flaking off?
    Another PIA to deal with.... "

    It's not flaking off, it's melting off! it gets so hot after sitting in the sun all day I can hardly touch the darn thing. A serious case of "form over function"
    .
  • lhesslhess Member Posts: 379
    we're at 3K miles and, of course, no problems yet, but everything looks good. I did talk to my tech about some of the problems that I see posted here and he seems to have a pretty good understanding of the rotary. Thought I'd post some of his comments here for others:

    1. Asked about the frequency of 8's coming back in with major engine problems. He said they're not getting a lot with real issues, but most of what they see is "driver induced." they have had one converter problem that he felt would have happened regardless of how the car was driven. It was replaced.

    2. Asked about the autos. He said they will run fine as long as you pop it over into the "shifting mode" (sorry, I have no idea what mazda calls their auto tranny) and blow the crap out of the engine. Do that as often as you can.

    3. He asked me about winter driving. I told him I would probably be putting him away for the salty, snowy roads. He advised me to start it every other day, if not every day, and let it warm up nicely before shutdown. He said even though the car is not being driven, the electronics still pull on the battery and it needs to be charged. He even suggested that I try to get it out and drive it as much as possible.

    4. Here's an interesting one I hadn't seen posted here (forgive me if I overlooked someone's knowledgeable post). He said that a big contributor to the flooding issue (aside from the shutdown before warm-up) is letting the battery run down for a 2-3 day period. He said when it doesn't crank good and start quickly, it is more likely to flood. He strongly suggested starting the car EVERY day and actually driving it as much as possible. Even weekend drivers need to be starting the car as much as possible.

    And, I have to say, I've been lucky to find a dealer that is knowledgeable about the rotary (even the sales guys are somewhat fanatics about it) and they fix issues when they arise. Hope this helps!!
  • rx8worldrx8world Member Posts: 28
    he said anything about the rough idle issue?.Older messages said that this was a problem caused by "bad" spark plug wires.My mechanic told me that the car(in idle mode) fix the "air to fuel ratio".....
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    The rough idle is caused mainly by two factors:

    1. The injectors are too large to properly control idle mixture, so the computer is constantly messing with the idle mixture, trying to get it right - it can't so you get a rough idle. Not much you can do about that. You can actually hear it work, constantly trying to correct the idle mixture.

    2. At idle the engine is turning at 750 RPM. At that low speed the apex seals don't work very well - these are the combustion chamber seals at the edges of the rotor. Because they don't seal very well, the chamber pressure varies a bit and you get some blowby into adjacent chambers which affects the mixture and its' burning characteristics. This varies with time, so the combination of the two effects means the mixture is not well controlled and you get an inconsistant burn from chamber to chamber, resulting in a rough idle.

    The ignition wires or spark plugs can affect the idle, but they have to be really bad. Neither are working very hard at idle as the combustion pressure is very low - bad plugs show up mostly under hard accelleration when the combustion pressure is high - a fouled or worn plug will not fire under high pressure.

    Raise the idle to 1500 RPM or so and the apex seals will begin to work much better. You will get a very nice steady idle - but it will reduce the already low mileage even further. Try it when sitting in the car - use the accellerator pedal to raise the idle and see how much it improves vs RPM. I recommend living with the poor idle, because it causes less complaints than poorer mileage would. My guess is that was also Mazda's compromise reasoning.
  • rx8worldrx8world Member Posts: 28
    Thanks a lot for the informations pathstar.
  • lhesslhess Member Posts: 379
    I was going to respond to the idle issue by saying that all I was ever told about idling (didn't ask a specific question) was that it would not idle smoothly and that it was not a mechanical problem. My answer is somewhat lacking in comparison, huh?
  • rx8worldrx8world Member Posts: 28
    :shades:
  • cheezeboycheezeboy Member Posts: 218
    if it hasn't been said before - Pathstar, you rock. This forum would be a lesser forum without you!

    Wish you were my mechanic.......!!!
  • xoomxoomxoomxoom Member Posts: 4
    I also have one of those dipstick "condoms" and what you are seeing is a very low cost field fix. By creating a thermal barrier between the dipstick and the dipstick tube any oil in the plastic "condom" avoids condensation that normally occurs on the inside surface of the steel dipstick tube. The "condom" is designed to stay in the tube but all of us who check our own oil level are well aware of the ingeniously designed "hook" at the end of the dipstick. Perfect for catching the bottom edge of the "condom" and dragging it out of the dipstick tube. I just slide the "condom" back in and it works fine. Anybody getting turned on yet?

    BTW - I'm willing to put up with this minor inconvenience because the RX-8 is just a hoot to drive. Here's to triple digits on the speedo!!!
  • ukjimukjim Member Posts: 63
    Thanks for the tip, glad to know that I'm not the only one out there potentially not having safe sex!

    I'll drink to the last comment, I just dont get this coking/fouling up issue, how can you not peg the tach every day! :blush:
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    It seems to me that this fix is dangerous, as you could accidentally introduce something other than oil into the engine. I'll bet if you took some of the black foam "tube" type insulation intended for water pipes (I'm thinking of the 1/2" size here), and put it over the outside of the dipstick tube it would perform just as well, and not have the ability to introduce something into the engine. You could even put light coloured electrical tape around the top of it to make it easier to find when replacing the dipstick (the hardest part of checking the oil for me - but I'm old ;-).
  • mex8mex8 Member Posts: 3
    50% of the restaurants in the POI of my Nav system are no longer there. At least two major road changes in the area I live have not been included, and they were complete at least 3 years ago! It is time for Mazda to release the updates! :mad:
  • xoomxoomxoomxoom Member Posts: 4
    I will stay away from any jokes regarding age and finding the dipstick hole. ;)

    I would keep in mind the off-the-shelf pipe insulation material is not meant for the temperatures seen around the dipstick. I wouldn't go so far as to predict a fire but it would most likely melt, make a mess, and not accomplish what you are trying to do.
  • ukjimukjim Member Posts: 63
    Time to revisit my original question about the dipstick "condom". The Teflon like tube put over the dipstick was installed by the dealer so I assume it is of the correct material for the expected temperatures and does not pose a threat of fire or damage to the engine. It is back on the dipstick so hopefully it stays put.

    I have a portable Garmin Street Pilot III that is about 3 years old (I didnt get the Mazda Nav option because of that). I was getting concerned about the rapidly aging data base so contacted Garmin last week about an upgrade. I dont know who supplies the Mazda system, but if it is Garmin there will be updated software available later this year, but they wouldnt tell me when.
    I dont know about other systems but Garmin uses the term Points Of Interest (POI) in its set up so I thought it might be the same one.
  • jimstack41jimstack41 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info. I haven't bought the RX8 yet, but I just tested one that actually stalled at idle in the dealer's lot before I took it out. It had 55 miles on it. It didn't look like it had been prep'ed yet so I wasn't too worried about it.

    Jim
  • slayerslayer Member Posts: 10
    I love my 8, but damn, for some reason it seems to be a magnet for bodywork damage. Since I bought the car a little over 3 months ago, I've had an 18-wheeler kick up a stone at high speed and chip my front-right quarterpanel, I've had some dimwit drive over a plank in front of me, taking out my left-hand wing mirror, and now this!

    2 days ago I leave work and go to my car. Now my car is parked in the basement parking garage, in a bay with a fire hose at the end of it. The fire hose is dripping water everywhere, I figure it's leaking, think nothing of it. I get home, and to my horror realize the ENTIRE RIGHT-HAND SIDE OF THE CAR is covered in scratches, and some of them are bad ones. Turns out a similar complaint was lodged by a coworker last week, some fool is using the fire hose (illegally) to wash cars or something and obviously just raked the thing over my car without any thought :mad: I mean this guy got everything on the right-hand (driver for me) side...front and rear quarterpanels, front and rear doors, even the freaking roof has a small one! I'm hoping that most of them didn't pierce the clearcoat and can be buffed out, but one or two (on the strip between the doors and roof...oh wait, that's all one big panel connected to the quarterpanels, and the biggest on the car...yay!) are deep enough to fit my fingernail.

    Anyway, sorry for the lengthy rant. Any suggestions on how to approach this? I'm a little worried about buffing since I've never had any scratches of note on my cars before, so I've never done this. Doesn't it wear down the clearcoat? Any tips or whatever would be awesome!

    Now I'm off to find the (expletive deleted) who did this so I can whup his a** and get my money.
  • rx8worldrx8world Member Posts: 28
    HELLO ALL......i have a question.Is the air fan suppose to work and after you switch of the engine?and if yes...for how long.For nine months now,every time i switched off the fan worked for 5 seconds at low.Today when i took the key off, the fan was still working for 2-3 minutes at high.In the last 10 days i used to turn the key to "ON" after i switched off the engine,to allow the fan to work "manually"(if i can say that).Is this normal?
    Suggestions pls???????
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    I assume you are talking of the radiator electric fan. It will work until the coolant reaches a set temperature. It's summer now, so it will work longer. It's normal, and no, you aren't paranoid, lots of owners wonder about it. Some of us with 3rd gen RX-7s wish our fans did that - instead of hearing coolant boiling. ;)

    One warning. Anyone with cars that are like this should keep their hands out of the fan shroud as the fan can come on at ANY time - and it will take fingers off quite easily!
    If you have to work in there disconnect the battery -ve terminal first.
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    As pathstar1 says, that is normal. When it is hot out after drive you stop moving and turn off the car. The heat under the hood and in the engine builds and if the coolant gets hot enough it will kick on the fan.

    My old Fiat X1/9 used to do this too - folks thought it was strange since it looked futuristic (at the time) and few cars on the road had electric fans.

    Ever notice on the fan shrouds of most modern cars it has a warning that the "fan may start at any time" ? Yep, that is what it is doing. No need to worry, just stop and walk away and let the run as needed.

    Dennis
  • rx8worldrx8world Member Posts: 28
    thanks a lot pathstar1 and dwynne for the quick response :)
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    Don't sue us if it fails to stop running and runs your battery down and strands you someplace.

    Just kidding :-)

    Dennis
  • redrpmredrpm Member Posts: 16
    I documented my performance issues a month or so back - bogging, clattering, loss of almost all power, like it's running under water, ETC. Dealerships have been unable to find anything wrong. Multiple reflashes, et al. My coolant light (had to look that one up) has flashed twice while the engine was doing that but only momentarily. As it's warming up in Denver the engine probs are now occurring during every commute, and growing worse. I did call Mazda corporate a couple weeks ago and have them document the issue (now over a year of this) and they created an Open Contact...whatever good that will do.

    Last week took to dealership to have it diagnosed but it was a cool morning (low 60s) and even an hour of hard driving wouldn't replicate the problem. I promised to return on a warmer day when it was actually happening.

    During a 45 minute drive this morning with temps in high 80s, the engine started its antics w/in 5 minutes and persisted the whole time. Could barely get up slight road inclines with engine clattering and wheezing away. I turned around and drove 45 min back to a dealership, several times considering putting on hazard lights...it was that bad and I couldn't get out of my own way. Completely bogging down.

    I pulled into dealership, turned it off for 5 min, found a service tech who took it out for a 10 min drive. I was joking with the other staff that someone was going to have to go pick him up on the side of the road any minute. Then he comes back, says I should come with him, which I do. As we're pulling out of the lot he says there's nothing wrong...he'd just had it up to 80 and it ran great. We'll see I say.

    So off we go...and the thing runs like a top! With or without AC. It was flawless. Unbelievable. I was devasted. He later ran some diagnostics and said all codes checked out fine. They're keeping it over the weekend and I will go Monday afternoon to drive it myself and see if it will act up. I shouldn't have shut it off and won't next time. But truly I can't get to the end of my own street w/out it going into crapout mode, and now I'll get another service checkout form to add to my other dozen saying/showing there's nothing wrong with the car. If no one hears the tree fall in the forest...did it really? I have no case.

    Is ANYONE experiencing similar issues? Does anyone have thoughts on how to proceed? It's an early gen car, 6 sp, 25k miles. I can't sell it or trade it like this...I'm stuck! Thanks for any direction.
  • cherrymcherrym Member Posts: 1
    Hi - this is my first time on any chat room. Have a 2003 RX8 - the battery died after the car had been in our garage unused for about a week. Discovered that my daughter had left one of the interior lights on. Husband got it working but now the engine light is on - doesn't seem to have either an engine heating problem or any problem with oil pressure. We haven't got a manual so not sure what else it could be. Can anyone advise?
    Thanx - Cherry
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    Must be a 2004 RX-8, there are no 2003 models - but the 2004s came out early in the model year.

    The car is under warranty, so there is always the dealer - stop in and ask them to check it.

    Also auto parts places like AutoZone, Advance auto parts, etc will read the code from the OBDII computer for you for free. If you do go to one of these places, be sure to remind them that your Mazda uses the newer CAN protocol so they will use a CAN compatible reader to look at the code(s).

    You can also pick up an inexpensive reader for yourself. If you have several new cars this might be a cheap investment - then when you get a check engine light you can hook it up and read the code, then decide what you need to do.

    If you have a loose gas cap can cause a code on a new car, and a lot of dealers will charge you if you go in for a service visit and this is the problem.

    Another option is to just wait - if this was a single fault as you start the car and no more faults occur then the code will roll out of the active buffer and the light will go out. If it does not, then you have an ongoing problem.

    Dennis
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    It's normal to get a CEL after running the battery dead. It should go away after a few start/shutdown cycles. Have you reset the power steering? If not, that will cause the CE to light. Start car, turn wheel all the way to the right, then all the way to the left, then back to centre. I'm not kidding here, it's in your owners manual.
  • rx8worldrx8world Member Posts: 28
    hi all,i've heard that the new update came up (i think the "N").does anyone know the benefits of this flash?
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    I think they are past N and onto something else - the "R" flash now.

    Normally things get better with each flash. Folks report better
    driveability, better fuel mileage, etc. I read in one they changed the AC
    compressor to NOT kick off if you rev'd above 5k.

    No way to tell what you have without a CAN reading tool - or asking the
    dealer to check it.

    The 8 has had a lot of flashes and seems to have a very sophisticated and versatile computer. A lot of folks say don't go in for the new flash until you have a symptom, others want to wait until the new "code" has been out for a while. I asked the dealer to flash mine to the latest load before I picked up the car. I have no idea if they did or not, but it seems to drive fine. A lot of dealers will require a symptom to get the flash under warranty. I think "poor mileage" or "hard to start" should be good enough.

    Dennis
  • rx8worldrx8world Member Posts: 28
    hi dwynne...
    @#*** indicator....nothing...stays at "c"............ :confuse:
  • problemsproblems Member Posts: 8
    I know how you feel, bought mine in January since then I've had it in for service thirteen times and a new engine after the third month. I contacted the lemon law lawyer and mazda is finally taking the car back. But what really sucks is try'n to find another car I like. Although I have had all the problems, I still love the look of the car, but it isn't worth all the problems thats for sure. Good luck on yours
  • cowboys08cowboys08 Member Posts: 2
    we are looking at buying a new 05 for my wife, can you recomend this car , what pros and cons are there , thanks
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