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But anyway, I am glad that this particular dealership is doing what they can to make things right. At least it is only a small dent. Things happen. I wonder how many new cars that have never even been sold that are sitting on the lot have been accidently dented and then fixed and we don't even know it?
HERE
Try to post in only one topic if you remember.
thanks
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Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Hyundai filters use a molded o-ring sort of gasket. Never had a problem with them, either.
I have never followed the AC Delco instructions on tightening, either. If you do, you may find a leak. I basically go hand tight, then another 3/4 turn. works great.
WHAT THE HELL SHOULD I DO? IT'S BURNING OUT, AND THE ENGINE SOUNDS LIKE **** ON IDLE. IF I KNEW HOW TO PULL THE PLUG AND DRAIN IT OUT I WOULD, AND GET THE 50 SHE NEEDS. WHAT SHOULD I DO? NOT DRIVE IT, RIGHT? I DON'T HAVE ANOTHER CAR THIS HOLIDAY WEEKEND, BUT I DON'T WANT TO MAKE THINGS WORSE.
COULD SOMEONE THAT IS AN EXPERT WITH FERRARI HELP ME OUT?
STUPID MISTAKE,
355F1NOTHAVINGFUN :confuse:
If you overfilled, that may or may not mean anything---at the worst you can cause some seals to leak and damage the catalytic---which isn't great but not terminal either. Personally I wouldn't risk running the car if it is overfilled, smoking and idling badly---regardless if it were a Ferrari or a Toyota because you'll foul your plugs and possibly damage the catalytics. They can only absorb so much oil to burn up.
I just saw a Porsche turbo with this very problem, but they put in about 6 quarts too much and ran the car---that requires an entire new exhaust system and a tune up, but other than that, it survived quite well.
If you are just a quart over, a simple oil change and an "Italian tune up" (blasting the car on the freeway, which Ferraris need to do) might be all it needs. Not being on site, I hesitate to advise you other than having the car taken by truck to someplace that knows what they're doing---the reason being that severe engine damage on a car of this type and vintage brings it close to a total loss. It seems unnlikely there is serious damage because you weren't all that low on oil apparently.
Just about any engine can tolerate a quart or so low.
I WOULD LOVE TO GET HER ON A FLAT BED AND TO MY MECHANIC FOR THE MAJOR ENGINE HOIST AND $9,000.00 TREATMENT. TIMES ARE TOUGH LATELY, ESPECIALLY WITH A DIVORCE, AND MAJOR REINVESTING IN MY BUSINESS. BEING A SINGLE MOM WITH A FERRARI IN THIS ECONOMIC CRISIS, IS A [non-permissible content removed]. IN FACT, I AM PREPARING FOR AN ESTATE SALE TO GET THE FUNDS FOR THIS SERVICE. I'LL BE DAMNED IF I WILL GIVE UP AND SELL HER AT THE WORST TIME EVER. I'M TRYING EVERY WHICH WAY.
IS THERE A FERRARI MECHANIC YOU WOULD REFER?
THANKS AGAIN,
355F1FUN
I don't see why you need a major service here.
I think checking the oil at ambient temperature is fine. If you checked it with the engine hot, that's probably what messed you up, as lots of oil stays on top of that engine for a while until it cools down.
I happened to see the oil filter when the car was lifted for brake check up. It was filthy and covered with dust. So I asked a guy if he did not change the oil filter. He replied that he changed oil filter, but the cartridge did not get changed.
Does this sound right?
Thanks
You might be confused by the terminology?
Most cartridge type systems end up being a bit messy. On my MINI for instance, it's darn near impossible not to spill oil on the engine.
As Shifty indicated, you could have a canister, in which it is the inside paper filter that gets replaced. Or, you could have a screw on can type, where the whole filter gets replaced.
But to be a little more specific on your oil change, when you get an oil change you should get oil AND filter changed. It's possible to not change the filter, but then you have a quart of dirty oil already in the filter, and the filter may be partially clogged with all the old stuff. Common practice is to replace oil and filter.
If you go to an autoparts store, in the oil filter section, look up your make, model, engine....and the book will tell you what the filter is that your vehicle uses. Go to the shelf and look at the new filter.
Back in the late sixties, as a kid working in a gas station some of the older cars used these and we hated them. They were messy to change and if you didn't get all of the o rings and gaskets lined up just right, they would leak and we would have to take them back apart.
Now, these miserable things are coming back on quite a few cars I hear?
What could the reasoning be for this?
All in all, I think cartridge filters are a good idea. A bolt usually holds them on.
And yes, oil filters fall off and they can be blown off, too.
If you think about the number of crappy, off-brand oil filters for sale, having to depend on the gasket of that type of discount-house filter is pretty risky.
Maybe I shouldn't have thrown away my old suction gun?
http://members.cox.net/n0v8or/avalon_oil_change.pdf
Hope you get her fixed
That depends entirely upon the engine and the clearance between the typical top level of the oil while the engine is running and the bottom arc of the crank and rods, and that is IF the engine in question uses a wet sump arrangement. Said another way, some engines will whip the oil, otherss will not.
"Which basically means that when the oil is hot the viscocity is 30 and 5 when cold in simple terms."
Ummm, no. What the grading numbers mean is that when a multi-grade oil is cold, the oil flows as a straight-weight oil of the first number would flow when cold, and when the oil is warm, it will only thin out to the point where it will flow as a warm straight-weight oil of the second number will flow when it too is warm.
As for "W" standing for "Winter", that is something of a misnomer as "Winter" really doesn't have much to do with it; the"W" is a hold-over from a very early SAE J300 oil specification.
But it ain't gonna happen, because as good as that motor is, it just isn't that finicky.
I got the cap loose using a 36 mill socket and extension, but I was unable to pull it all the way out. After playing with the hose I could only pull it out about a half inch. I asked a senior tech to show me how to remove it. Unfortunately he had no experience with these cars either. While trying to work the cap around the hose the tech broke the internal retainer tube on the cap that holds the filter. We then had to go to Audi and buy a new cap and refund the service.
Once i was back under the car, I figured out that I could work the filter into the housing and then maneuver the cap onto it and snap them together. Unfortunately I cant do this during removal because I cant separate them untill they are off the car.
Had anyone experienced this problem and do you have a good technique for removal
how to get them to replace the oil pan. Here is my situation, I used only
one shop to change my oil, it was fine for a few year, then this time aug31, 2011, they informed me the oil pan thread worn out??? (at first, they blamed
the previous oil change person to damage the thread, but then I let them know that last time I did change oil here (as well as the previous two oil changes as I still had paper work in my car. Then, they changed the tone saying that because of the pan made of aluminium, so it is worn out. I did
not have money to have the oil pan change, so the shop suggested to
use oil drain oversize plug temporarily. I had no choice but let it done that way. IT WAS FIRESTONE store in Milpitas, CA. I knew their previous tech did overtighten it and damage the thread. So if anybody has any ideas on
how to put a complaint on FIRESTONE, please let me know. Also, please let me know is any way to fix the thread without changing oil pan. My car is
2001 Mazda Tribute V6, 94K miles. Thanks in advance.
Could you help me by letting me know where to get a drain plug repair/replacement kit for my car 2001 Mazda Tribute V6 DX (the plug size
is 12 (hole) 1.75 (thread) as it was told) Mine was tripped by the FIRESTONE
tech while doing oil change for me (i did do the oil change in one store few
years for my car - now they made mistake and did nothing about that by
saying wear and tear as my oil pan is aluminum so the thread is worn out.
I knew previously the tech did over-torqued (sp?)/overtighten it)
If the thread is able to fix without changing oil pan, it is much appreciated.
Also if anyone know how to send a complaint to FIRESTONE head quarter,
please let me know.
Thank in advance
Kind of hokey, but it works.