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Nissan 350Z Care and Maintenance
Share your 350Z care/maintenance tips here.
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I' recently purchased an 2005 350Z Roadster. I live in California so the sun can be harsh on the convertible top. Does anyone have any suggestion on how it care for the top in the dry desert heat?? Currently I only rinse it with water when I wash my car. I don't use any soap on it.
Thanks
:shades:
Does anyone know if it's alright to use Armor All the interior of? the dash, doors etc? Or should I use a different product??
Thanks
:confuse:
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
DO NOT USE ARMOR ALL.. I have a 2003 350Z and was told that the oils attract dust and over time it will crack your dashboard. The auto guys reccomend I use warm water and a towel to wipe it down.
I used Armor All wipes once or twice. I liked the gloss but it was oily everywhere..
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
LT-36
HEADLAMP (FOR USA) - XENON TYPE -
Removal and Installation AKS009O8
REMOVAL
1. Open driver and front passenger window, and then disconnect battery negative cable.
CAUTION:
After battery cables are disconnected, do not open/close the driver and/or front passenger door
with the window in the full up position. The automatic window adjusting function will not work and
the side roof panel may be damaged.
2. Remove front bumper. Refer to EI-14, "FRONT BUMPER" in
"EI" section.
3. Remove headlamp mounting bolts.
4. Pull head lamp toward vehicle front, disconnect connector, and
remove headlamp.
INSTALLATION
Installation in the reverse order if removal. Be careful of the following.
NOTE:
After installation, aiming adjustment. Refer to LT-33, "Aiming Adjustment" .
Disassembly and Assembly AKS009O9
PKIA1865E
Headlamp mounting bolt : 6.1 N·m (0.62 kg-m, 54 in-lb)
PKIA9130E
1. Retaining spring 2. Front turn signal lamp bulb 3. Front turn signal lamp bulb socket
4. Side marker lamp bulb 5. Side marker lamp bulb socket 6. Xenon bulb
7. Parking lamp (Clearance lamp) bulb 8. Parking lamp (Clearance lamp) bulb socket 9. Seal rubber
10. Plastic cap 11. Halogen bulb (high) 12. Xenon bulb socket
13. Halogen bulb socket 14. HID C/U 15. Headlamp housing assembly
It's not that complicated! I know a much easier way to replace your lights without having to remove the bumper. First of all, when u say replace your low beams, do u mean your Xenon bulbs or regular halogen??
Tools needed:
- Drill with phillips head screw or regular 4 edge screw driver (will take u longer)
- flat edge screw driver
- Mini rachet set just in case the screws are on too tight (screws are aslo rachet bolts)
Steps as follows:
- turn steering wheel all the way in the direction of which bulb u r changing first (ie. left light assembly, turn steering wheel all the way left).
- then jack up that side with your factory jack.
- get under front fender and remove 5-6 screws/bolts that hold up only the front under-side wheel well covering.
- remove 5 - 6 plastic rivets located around the plastice wheel well covering (4 around the wheel well lining and 2 attached to the frame) - (use flat edge to pop-up then pull out).
- Pull down covering slightly and allow to rest on tires.
- You will then have access to the back of the light assembly
- Goodluck!
(If it's Xenon that you need to replace - i wouldn't mess with it - may need dealer assistance)
Anyone know how to remove the fixture that partially hides the battery? The "pop rivits" look like they will come out, but I don't want to test that theory and break them/the housing. Additionally, I found that the hatch lid was ajar only after it completely drained the battery (alarm light is off, no instrument lights, no power after a 15min jump, etc). Any info on what systems may have been compromised as a result? Thanks.
I just bought my 2006 350z two days ago, absolutely love it. Wanted to know if anyone has heard anything negative about the 2006? Thanx :shades:
ZMike
If you look in the owners manual there should be a separate service maintenance booklet explaining all the things that get done in each of the services.
If I recall, only the 15K intervals are any REAL services other than just an oil change and a few inspections.
You should change the oil AT A MINIMUM of 2X per year (ie: every 6 months)
My PERSONAL opinion is that synthetic oil can be run and changed at 5 to 6K intervals. This is what I have done in my former BMW, my current LEXUS IS 250, and my NEW Z.
Once the Z is broken in (approx 1,200 to 1,500) I am going to change the oil and start running synthetic.
Hope this helps and enjoy the Z .. I know I do!!!
I have a friend wants to sell his Z , 2005 AT ,60000 miles. I just want to know how much dealer charge for regular maintainese because he drives a lot and i am sure someone will need to be replace if i buy it.
How much dealer charges for the service and is nissan service reliable?
For ex.
1. Oil Change
2. Inspection
3. Replace tires ( i heard Z has flat tire problem u have to replace it every years and it cost 500$ each)
4. Transmission Fluid
5. Engine Coolant
6. Brake Pad
7. Brake
8. Replace Water Pump and Timing Belt
Overall, is Z a reliable car ? I like Z but i dont' want a car to give me problem and i have to pay $1000 every year. Can someone come out with estimation cost?
Thanks
Tires you can research online. Try tirerack or discounttriredirect. The '03 and '04 Zs had premature tire wear problems on the front tires. I have not heard of the problem being widespread on the '05s. Ask your friend how often he had to replace the tires.
this car uses a timing chain, so no need to worry about that one thing. Tranny fluid and coolant flush and fill should each be in the neighborhood of $80-$100. Oil change should be $30 or less. More if you use synthetic, however. The charges for these types of services is no more on the Z than most other vehicles.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
When I picked up my car from the dearlership, I tried the top out.
It did not collapse all the way. In the final stage right before completely folding into the top storage compartment, it stops. If I continue to push the lever, it bounces up and down. The dealership guys continued to open and close the top about 6 to 10 times ( this happened two days in row.) until it finally completely collasped into the the storage compartment. But there still is a jerk or slight pause where it got stuck before. The dealership guys told me the NIssan Mechanics said the mechanical parts are fine and does not need to add hydrolic fluid. They told me it works fine in the sun when it's warm and the new material stiffens up when it's cold. They told me I have to "break it in".
This sounds like bogus to me. I find it highly unlikely a brand new roadster would have a problem like this. That would be very embarrassing for the salesman.
However, when I asked Nissan Corporate about this, the customer service agent did mention she had one other 350z owner complain about the same problem on his new Z. She didn't know how the specialist resolved the problem.
I'm waiting for the specialist to call me but was wondering if anybody else had this problem? Or if the dealership is feeding me lies to get rid of me.
:mad:
Ike
'05 350z Roadster Touring Pike's
pads are still fine AND I don't have ridiculously large quantities of brake dust on my wheels all of the time (the crappy pad material had to go somewhere). Interestingly, they suggested the wear was due to my storing the car (in an underground heated garage) and that I had to service the calipers each season. Since I have stored cars for many years, I figured he was was making this up as he went. When I replaced the pads and rotors on my own AFTER storing the car for another winter, I confirmed that the calipers were not sticking. This confirmed my suspicions that the pad material was crap.
take it to auto zone to read the codes and then take it to the dealer. You can also reset the ECU, Dont do this too much as the ECU is talking to you.
350Z ECU Resetting Procedures
Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
You can also try disconnecting the battery for 24 hours.
Last time I saw this, the throttle body was kaput and had to be replaced. very simple process though.
Don't recommed to reset ECU too many times as it it telling you something