Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

rjordan · June 2005

Hello,
The lights on my power window switches are no longer working on my 2004 4runner limited. All dash lights are working after I turn on the headlamps. Is there a trick to get them back on? The lights are so small, that I think they are probally tied into another light circuit. Any ideas?

nedzel · June 2005

I've got a 2003 4Runner. I park it outside. The rubber seal on mine seems just fine and does not leak.

lovdatyota · June 2005

I have a 95 toyota I LOVE THIS TRUCK. but .... when I press down on my clutch I have noticed a noisy almost a rumbling in the clutch . It sounds like a bearing or something possibly wearing out? anyone know of any good inexpensive ways to fix or test.? OR EVEN BETTER ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE PROBLEM IS???
please help i love my yota but very expensive to have repaired . any help would be a God send. :-)

nippononly · June 2005

When they get older, the return spring on the clutch pedal tends to get kind of squirrelly. Since it is a fairly heavy gauge spring, it can make a vibration and sound like a "rumble", are you sure that is not all it is? If it is that, sometimes a grease-type lubricant can eliminate the noise, if not the vibration.

How many miles since you last replaced the clutch?

If it is making more like a "ratchety" sound, that is likely the pilot bearing, in which case you may have to spring for a clutch replacement. However, if it is that, you can probably go on for some time and monitor it if it gets worse. So you can pick your timing.

Bottom line: this is hard to speculate on without hearing the noise in person.

rainraven · June 2005

I have a 1989 4 Runner, with a rebuilt engine installed in 2003. Beginning early last winter I began getting horrible gas mileage (like 9 mpg). I had a tune up, oil change, etc... but it is getting worse. I was thinking it might be the fuel filter, any other thoughts? Thanks for the help!

jere39 · June 2005

My 97 4Runner (140k miles) also developed a variety of noises from the clutch pedal, and with a little contortionist practice I was able to confirm they were all coming from the return spring. It appears in my case to be that various nylon bushings on several of the pivot points have deteriorated to the point of slipping out of position, or breaking and falling away totally. I tried a variety of lubricants to quiet this situation, and found varying success. Light weight lubs like WD-40 or even silicone worked, but not for long. Spray white lithium grease worked longer, but was harder to get to the right place and splattered more of the area. I finally found an aerosol of Valvolene lub that was somewhere between WD-40 and the White lithium. It had good penetration, worked itself around corners and into pivot points I couldn't directly spray into, but didn't splatter. I now get a couple months of quiet, relatively smooth clutch work out of an application. I once asked the dealer about it and they suggested they could fix it for about $300 worth of interior linkage assembly parts. I have a well stocked garage shelf of spray lubricants for just about any purpose and only about $20 invested. Don't give up on your linkage yet, I think you'll be able to solve your problem.
Jere

jmtreetop · June 2005

Oxygen sensor maybe? Not sure about 1989. I had a 1998 4runner and had to replace both oxygen sensors after getting 9 mpg.

simple_guy35m · June 2005

If rubber seal around sun-roof gets brittle/worn, can we replace just the rubber seal, or do we have to replace entire sun-roof unit.
Is there any maintenance we can do for the rubber seal to last longer.
Thanks

nippononly · June 2005

like jmtreetop said, probably an oxygen sensor. But have you checked to make sure the engine is actually warming up? It could be a classic case of a thermostat that is stuck open.

Make sure your temp gauge works, and that the needle is going up to the proper spot (midrange) when you drive the truck.

It wouldn't be a fuel filter, you would feel loss of power in a big way if the fuel filter were clogged. Are you having any other driveability problems?

yeti351 · June 2005

Well, I brought in my 2003 4Runner and the problem was a small drip coming from between the rubber sunroof gasket and the roof. My Toyota dealer basically said that this is to be expected and that there are channels to collect the water. As long as the volume of water doesn't overflow out of the channels, there isn't a problem. Is this true? I gotta live with a slight leak?

gumby2 · June 2005

I have a 2004 4Runner (15,000mi). A couple of weeks ago, the moonroof got mechanically jammed in the open position with no way of closing it. The dealer said they don't know what the problem is, but they will have to replace the entire moonroof assembly. They also told me that there are no moonroof assemblies available anywhere in the US. The guy told me he thinks that Toyota may have recalled all the repair assemblies to a fix a flaw in the system. Toyota told the dealer it will be another 4 weeks before they can get me a new assembly. Anyone have any more information on this?

jtcanyon · June 2005

I recently purchased a 2004 V6 4Runner and noticed the ticking nose. I see your original note is about 8 months old now, any new information from your first comments back in October? I have an appointment with Toyota next week, but was hoping to learn a little bit about other owners experiences prior to dealing with the dealership.

rainraven · June 2005

Thanks for the hint about the oxygen sensor, I'll check it out. Don't think it is the thermostat, as the gauge registers in the mid range while driving.

hardtoocatch · June 2005

I have a second appointment this Thursday to have my front end rattle checked out. I made a complaint to the Toyota Corp about the rattle and they started a case for me. I also found out from a friend of a friend who owns 03 4runner limited that there is a bulletin out on the front suspension of the 4runner, it is not a RECALL yet but if a lot of us make complaints they will have to recall it. I also found out that the SHIMES that they put on these trucks are garbage so it might be that rattling. I will kept you posted on what the dealer does for me. P.S. put in those complaints for 40k it shoud'nt have any problems!!

adsantana2000 · June 2005

I get a sulfur smell that comes out a/c vents when accelerating on freeway at about 70+ mph. I have taken my 04 4RUNNER to the dealer twice. The first time they replaced the catalitic converter and recalibrateded the computer. The second time they recalibrated the computer again. They also said that if it happnes again there is nothing they can do. Is there anyone else with this problem out there????

gumby2 · June 2005

I have the same problem with the sulfur smell. There's a technical service bulletin on this problem called "Excessive Sulfur Dioxide Odor". It's available at TSB. It sounds like they performed this service on your 4Runner. They did the same for mine and although the smell is better, I would still consider it excessive. I only really notice it now when I have the back window down and I am accelerating hard. My understanding is that the smell has to do with the way gas is manufactured. The magnitude of problem will vary from state to state and from brand to brand due to difference in the cocktail of additives that are used. Try experimenting with different brands. Good Luck.

gumby2 · June 2005

Another related TSB on the sulfur problem.

neumie2000 · June 2005

I'm interested to hear what they find. Mine was in the shop over the weekend for an oil change. I asked them to check the front end and make sure everything was tight because I heard a metallic rattle. They "checked," said everything was fine, but that there were some stones up under the skid plate that they blew out for me which may have been causing the noise. I knew this was not it, and sure enough, it did nothing to stop the noise. I'll be interested to hear what, if anything, they say about yours.

tidester · June 2005

You may also be interested in this discussion: Sulfur from 2003 4Runner

tidester, host

koenig · June 2005

I have an 85 22rec, while driving the engine lost power and then shut off. while trouble shooting I found that I wasn't getting a spark out of the coil. I replaced the coil and still didn't get a spark so I replaced the Ignitor and nothing. I get about 12 volts on ether side of the coil. Any suggestion?
Koenig

arkada · June 2005

Hello everyone. I own a 2002 V6 4runner sr5 sport addition. I love this car but I have little bit of problem with my a/c and heater. They work fine when I turn them on but for some reason when its off I still feel hot or cold air coming out from fans. I have to keep nub control on the middle so I won't be too hot or too cold if I don't want ot use a/c or heat. I didn't have that issues with my previous vehicle and just wondering if it's just a toyota thing or what. Does anyone have the same problems? How can I fix it?

canddmeyer · June 2005

Sorry to tell ya, but all vehicles are the same way. Your current vehicle probably has more airflow making it more noticable. Don't know when it started, but my 1991 Chevy did it, and it was probably happening before that with other vehicles I've owned. You'll get used to it. Don't quote me on it, but I believe it's mandated.

lildevil23 · June 2005

The CD player on the wife's 04SE conked out yesterday. On calling the service dept, they inquired about what kind of CD's she usually plays to which she said ripped/burned CD's.
Acc. to them this could be the problem. I dont recall any mention of compatibility issues in the owners manual.
Anybody else with insights or similar problems? :confuse:

arkada · June 2005

Thanks for reply. It's not that big of the issues for me and it just tells me that my baby doesn't have any problem wich is a good thing and I'm happy with it. Take care.

goshenbob · June 2005

Just got my 2004 4Runner (25,000 miles) back from the shop yesterday. I had the exact same problem. I opened the moonroof and it decided not to close. Actually, it became jammed. Dealer gave me the same excuse - 2-4 weeks to get new assembly. In the meantime, was able to drive a brand new bright green Dodge Neon. Words cannot describe how I felt driving around town yesterday. My 4 year old daughter thought the car was "cool". I'll keep you posted on how this progresses. Does anyone know who we should write to at Toyota (not the dealer) to express how pleased I am to not have a functional moonroof in the summer?

ilumn8 · June 2005

I am right now battling it out with my local dealer over this. they are trying to tell me this is normal. baloney! HAC is supposed to apply the brakes and that is all. Grinding noises and clattering and rolling back is not part of the game.

I have a 2003 4Runner SE, V6, 4spd Auto.

I have had it in to Toyota 9 times in 2 years for weird transmission stuff. They repaired/replaced some gear in the tranny once, but most of the time thy tell me they found nothing or that I must be hallucinating. Today, though, their chief mechanic was with me in the car and we went up a steep hill. I stopped, then let of the brake and before I got on the gas, it rolled back, started grinding and clicking and then, once I pushed on the gas, did the dashboard chittering and HAC light, chunked down below and then went forward.

If you live in Seattle or San Francisco, this "normal" behavior would make you crazy at every intersection. there is no way that this is normal. Maybe a class-action suit from many of us will get their attention?

Paul

ilumn8 · June 2005

Bad4Runner......

See my post to corancher.....

Paul

lorac53 · June 2005

There were tons of posts up until last October about the vibrations at certain RPMS...and then never mentioned again. What happened? Did people get tired of talking about it? Did people give up on getting it fixed? Did they GET it fixed? I just bought 05 Ltd V8 and it developed the vibration at 200 miles. It is getting worse...to the point I can't hardly even use the Overdrive. It vibrates as you pass through 1700-1800 RPMs (which is tolerable) but worsens when you top out in high gear and RPMs drop to 1300-1500. Dealership says all do it. Just curious why everyone stopped fussing.

gumby2 · June 2005

I'm sorry to say but I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one with this problem. My moonroof is so jammed that they can't get it closed, so they gave me a Corolla to drive around in. When they told me I wouldn't get my 4Runner back for 3-4 weeks, I told them I needed a more substantial vehicle. They had to call the regional manager to get special permission, but they set me up with a Highlander. It's certainly not a 4Runner, but its better than a Corolla (or a Neon).

hardtoocatch · June 2005

Well I went to the dealer today (second time for front end rattle) and I went with the mechanic on the test drive and made him hear the rattling. So they call me later in the day and tell me they checked everything and they don't know what it is, they are going to call Toyota headquarters to see what they want to do about the problem and they will call me. So on the way home I realize that I just put on the new wheel locks that I got for my birthday and was wondering how they checked everything with out taking the wheels off, nobody from Toyota called me for the key. (sounds like a cover up) every time I mention about the fact that I heard there was a bulletin on the 4runner for the front end I get no response just silence. Well I will keep you posted

neumie2000 · June 2005

Interesting. Now that I think about it, I have the wheel-locks as well, so I know the dealership did not take the wheels off when I was in. Good luck.

jusamaphonic · June 2005

I recently bought a 1991 4Runner. The truck has about 285K mi on it, but the engine was rebuilt about 100K ago. The other day it died at work, where it is still sitting. It turns over just fine, but won't catch.

When turning the ignition to "on", I am supposed to hear the whirr of the fuel pump correctly if I listen close enough, correct? All I hear are two clicks (perhaps one turning on, and one turning off). How audible should this whirr be? Am I on the wrong track? I think I'll pull the dist. cap tonight before I leave to see if that could be the problem. I just gone done off-roading the weekend before, and the air filter was filthy... replacing and removing it did nothing. I was also pretty low on gas when it decided to quit working... adding more gas did nothing (aside from irk me if I now have to drop the tank to get at the fuel pump). Any other tips on things to check?

stever · June 2005

Check the "No Start" Problems discussion too.

Steve, Host

hydrasport18 · June 2005

I HAVE A 1997 4RUNNER WITH JUST OVER 100,000 MILES AND EVERY NOW AND THEN I HERE A LOUD KNOCKING COMING FROM THE FLOOR BOARD OF THE FRONT PASSENGER SEAT. I HAVE ALSO BEEN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MY AIR. IT WILL BE COLD SOMETIMES AND OTHER TIMES IT WILL ONLY PRODUCE HOT AIR. I WAS WONDERING IF THESE WERE RELATED AND IF THEY ARE WHAT DO I NEED TO DO TO FIX THEM.

dahlemd · June 2005

I have a 05 V6 4runner. Does Toyota put in special break in oil? Should I wait for 5,000 miles before the first oil change, or should I change it at 1,000 miles to get rid of the metal particles and shavings. Also, Does the old dictum of limiting the speed to under 50 mph still apply or does new technology make this old rule obsolete. Thanks for the advice.

toyotaken · June 2005

There is no "break-in" oil in the 4-runner. Just do your first oil change at 5,000 miles. The break-in period really doesn't break off burrs and such any more as they engines are micropolished now. It's more to heat temper the parts than anything else. You can drive it at highway speeds, just vary the speed every 10-15 minutes or so to get differing temperatures and rpms.

Hope this helps.

Ken

yarosh · June 2005

hi dillon, i have the same problem and would like to know what you found out. i just bought a new 2005 4runner, live in nyc, need grille guards and saw the toyota manual tells you not to put them on. the dealer said they won't do it because there's a problem with the air-bags deploying. what did you do and learn? thanks for the help.

toyotaken · June 2005

Keep in mind that Toyota, like every major corporation in the US is scared witless about the possibility of lawsuits. I'm not going to get into a discussion about tort reform here, but lets put it this way. It is unlikely that 10lbs of bumper protector hanging off the front of your truck is going to effect the deployment of your airbags, but there is nothing to say it won't. So if you want to have it done, no affiliate of Toyota, including dealers will do it for you. So either you'll have to do it yourself or find a custom shop to do it for you.

Hope this helps.

Ken

stever · June 2005

Bull bars are a big issue in the UK and Australia too. Lots of issues with pedestrian safety as well as air bag and crumple zone concerns. I understand that some standards were implemented or changed in Australia to address these concerns a few years back. I haven't keep up with the UK regs but a complete ban is apparently being contemplated for the whole EU. (link).

Steve, Host

nippononly · June 2005

well, you have to check and make sure you still have spark. Pull a spark plug wire and have someone crank the engine - be careful when you do it! It's either spark or fuel if it just went from running fine to not running at all.

I wouldn't be surprised if the fuel pump were history at 285K though. My truck is at 215K, and I have been wondering when my pump will give up the ghost...

By the way, it is pretty much impossible to hear the fuel pump whir in this truck if you turn the key to 'on' without starting the engine. I tried it just to see.

hydrasport: it sounds like your A/C needs a charge - you can look at the sight glass to see if it is all bubbly (if so, yes, it needs a charge). As for the knocking under the passenger side floor boards, you will have to be a lot more specific. When does it happen, and what does it sound like? There isn't much under there.

ecodoc · June 2005

Hello-

I read all the messages here and am not able to find the answer to this questions.
I too have a 99 limited w/75k miles with a button on the 4x4 lever for engaging the center differential. The problem is I cannot get the indicator light to stop flashing and get it into a 4WD mode. I brought it to the dealer and he said there is NO PROBLEM. Any suggestion please?

jusamaphonic · June 2005

Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking. However, since I was a one-man show in this parking lot, it was too tricky for me to turn the engine and play with the cables at the same time. I thought about getting a remote bump-starter, but BUYING stuff is always a last resort

Anyhow, I popped off the dist cap, and the rotor underneath had quite a bit of carbon on it. I also looked like a wire brush had been taken to the top of it before. So, following suit, I scrubbed the top of that guy off agin with a wire brush. Mmm, shiny and new. Put it all together, and it started right up.

I'm still not entirely convinced that THAT is what solved this problem. It seems as though it could have been vapor lock. Vapor lock for over 48 hours though?

chankins · June 2005

I was happy to see someone else so disappointed with Dunlop tires. We bought our 99 4Runner when it had 60k on it, and it now has 155k. The tires still have some tread left (I'm told they're actually slightly oversized for the vehicle thus less tread wear from the weight of the truck) but they've had problems staying in balance and now at least one has a serious case of runout. I've been balancing and rotating quite a bit just to keep from going crazy.
Back to the truck itself. I love the vehicle, everything except the brake system. I've just put another set of front brake rotors on today, replacing the ones I put on in March 2004. They were so far out of whack that the whole car shook when you hit the brakes at any speed over 30 mph. Is there something about this vehicle that wears out brake rotors so fast?
I also get that "clunk" when I let off the brakes from a stop. It does feel like something is releasing the brakes, as if they got locked down when I applied them to stop. Doesn't do it all the time, but I'll definitely take the other writer's advice about lubing the driveline.
I look forward to hearing any other tales of faulty brake systems, since I don't plan to sell the vehicle just yet, I just wanted to make sure I'm not alone...
chankins

nippononly · June 2005

Not only have I never heard of 4Runners having problems with vapor lock, I also have NEVER heard of vapor lock continuing to be a problem once the engine was cold in any vehicle (used to have an old VW van that had problems like crazy with vapor lock - I would always bring a good book wherever I went). So - 48 hours? I would think not.

Get that rotor worn down too much with one too many wire brush scrubbings, and it wouldn't take much to stop the engine from starting - the tips of the rotor don't have a lot of margin for doing their thing. Makes a good $10 investment (go for the whole $15 and get a new cap too! :-)) if you are having starting problems.

Lastly, my old Celica (fuel-injected with in-tank pump) did this to me twice before the fuel pump failed. Both times the pump gave it one more try after I waited a day, then the third time it laid down and quit for good. Guess it was trying to tell me something. So it still might have been the pump. Good luck!

ecodoc: if you have a constantly flashing dash light and your dealer says "NO PROBLEM" then either he is totally incompetent and you should have gone elsewhere years ago, or he doesn't understand what problem you are trying to report. The light is not supposed to keep flashing when you engage 4WD. Go for a drive with the service writer, and demonstrate the problem for him/her. And don't ever let the dealer off with such a dumb answer again - if you know it's a problem, then there has obviously been a miscommunication somewhere.

4run4play · June 2005

Hi,

I have a 1999 Toyota 3.4L V6 SR5 4WD (manual transmission). 2 years ago, my "Check Engine" light came on. I've been ignoring it for a long time (almost 40,000 miles!) but now I need to get my Mass. Inspection sticker, so I need to fix it.

Going to an "Autozone" auto parts store, they hooked up the diagnostic connector on my 4Runner to their OBD II handheld diagnostic device. The device indicates the error codes were 1135 and 0125. Inside the store, they can look up the codes on their computer. Assuming you always add a P to the code, they are:

P1135: "Pedal position sensor A circuit intermittent".
P0125: "Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control".

Lets start with the first one: P1135.
Huh??? I have heard of a "Throttle position sensor", which is located under the hood on the throttle body, and detects the throttle position. Does anyone know if the "Pedal position sensor A" is the same thing as the Throttle position sensor?I want to be sure. I looked on the OBDII home page, and I could not find error code P1135 listed! Since the first 1 in 1135 indicates manufacturer, and a 0 in that position indicates SAE (Society of Auto Engineers), Im thinking that 1135 is a special code specific to Toyota and not the general OBDII codes for all vehicles. The closest OBDII code I found was:

P0124 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Intermittent

So, Im not sure what P1135 really means, since P0124 has the same meaning according to the ODBII diagnostic code table.

If I assume the description of 1135 on the computer at Autozone was inaccurate, and I try to match 1135 with the ODBII diagnostic code table, the closest match is P0135, which is:

P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Though, I had the codes checked a month ago (after neglecting them for 2 years), and the code P0120 was stored, along with 1133, 1135, and P0125. P0120 is:

P0120 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction

So, does anyone know if I have a real problem with my Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)? Or, does is there really a problem with the O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (assuming the code P0135 is what I should go by)? I was thinking that because of the next code P0125.

Another confusing thing. For code p0125, The computer at Autozone, as well as the IDBII Diagnostic code table, has this:

P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control

My coolant temperature has been fine, and the level is fine. However, when I looked in a service manual (by Haynes), that same code is listed like this:

P0125 O2 Sensor heater circuit fault.

Wow  could this be my pre-catalytic converter Oxygen Sensor failing? Whats up with the strange description Insufficient Coolant Temerature for Closed Loop Fuel Control?

Anyway, if anyone has any experience with these error codes, Id appreciate the help. Also, if it does turn out to be the O2 Sensor, what are the odds Ive ruined my catalytic converters? I have two, since the vehicle is California Emissions.

I want to do as much as I can on my own, because I do not trust the Toyota dealerships, and they are expensive!!

mnoky · June 2005

Hello, 97 4runner limited 198k miles. Have mild vibration only when accelerating or cruising. As soon as you let off gas vib goes away.

goshenbob · June 2005

I've got good news and I've got bad news.

The good news is that the parts are in to repair my moonroof.

The bad news is that the dealer says they need my 4Runner for 3 days. Maybe they're planning on painting the vehicle while they've got it in the shop?

Can't wait to see what loaner car they'll try to stick me with this time.

Is is me or does anyone else dread bringing in their cars to the dealer? I'll keep you posted on my developments.

charlie4runner · June 2005

I get the same clunk. The dealer took it for a ride in the parking lot. He notice the clunk after a little help and encouragement to believe problems do exit. He said it was the drivetrain lagging between a stop and go. He said it was normal.

I asked him if he could lube the yoke as suggested by Polartoy. The dealer says they don't typically do this till 35,000 km or so. I only had 19,000 km. He said he'll do it anyways, even though its not really a warranty thing.

It didn't make a difference. Either he was pulling my leg and did not lube it or did a poor job at lubing. He said he'll look to see if there is a Transmission programming update.

The clunk does not always occur prior to acceleration from stop. It occurs also when you do a rolling stop. Then you'll feel a clunk as if some lightly rear ended you.

I'm clueless.

nippononly · June 2005

that could be a lot of things, from an engine or transmission mount going bad to driveline lash, to...all sorts of things. That can only be diagnosed by someone experienced who is driving the thing and focusing on the vibration.

4run4play: it is all about sensors. The FI has a sensor to tell it how warm the coolant is and adjust accordingly, and it sounds like yours may have given up the ghost. The pedal sensor message doesn't sound smog-related, but still important. Actually, it sounds like a warning a drive-by-wire throttle might generate, but that model wasn't yet drive-by-wire in '99 was it? I can't remember. It certainly is for 2003 and up.

tophat58 · July 2005

Friday, 7/1 I took my family on an extended trip in our '94 4Runner. About 20 miles from our destination, the "check engine" light came on. Almost immediately afterward, the engine started to lose power. We pulled off the road, and as the car came to a stop all the warning lights lit up and smoke started pouring out from under the hood and through the vents into the passenger compartment. I had the whole family get out of the vehicle and we stood off to the side. I was expecting the smoke to start dissipating once the engine cooled down, but instead, the smoke thickened and small pieces of burning material started falling out of the front of the engine compartment.
The fire quickly spread into the passenger compartment. By that time I had called 911 and a good samaritan with a fire extinguisher had stopped and tried unsuccessfully to put out the fire. It took about 10 minutes for the first fireman to arrive. By then, most of the car was already engulfed in flames. 5 minutes later the rest of the fire company arrived and began to get the fire extinguished. By that time, the entire car had been burned to a shell.
I have two observations about this: 1.) Thank God the gas tank never caught fire. The fire burned all around it. Both rear tires, the spare, and everything else in the rear of the vehicle were reduced to ashes. 2.) I was dismayed at the speed with which the fire breached the rear of the engine compartment. The car had a slow oil leak and the lower section of the engine block had deposits of old oil clinging to it. I'm sure this make things worse. Still, we had precious little time.

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