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The lights on my power window switches are no longer working on my 2004 4runner limited. All dash lights are working after I turn on the headlamps. Is there a trick to get them back on? The lights are so small, that I think they are probally tied into another light circuit. Any ideas?
please help i love my yota but very expensive to have repaired . any help would be a God send. :-)
How many miles since you last replaced the clutch?
If it is making more like a "ratchety" sound, that is likely the pilot bearing, in which case you may have to spring for a clutch replacement. However, if it is that, you can probably go on for some time and monitor it if it gets worse. So you can pick your timing.
Bottom line: this is hard to speculate on without hearing the noise in person.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Jere
Is there any maintenance we can do for the rubber seal to last longer.
Thanks
Make sure your temp gauge works, and that the needle is going up to the proper spot (midrange) when you drive the truck.
It wouldn't be a fuel filter, you would feel loss of power in a big way if the fuel filter were clogged. Are you having any other driveability problems?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
tidester, host
Koenig
Acc. to them this could be the problem. I dont recall any mention of compatibility issues in the owners manual.
Anybody else with insights or similar problems? :confuse:
I have a 2003 4Runner SE, V6, 4spd Auto.
I have had it in to Toyota 9 times in 2 years for weird transmission stuff. They repaired/replaced some gear in the tranny once, but most of the time thy tell me they found nothing or that I must be hallucinating. Today, though, their chief mechanic was with me in the car and we went up a steep hill. I stopped, then let of the brake and before I got on the gas, it rolled back, started grinding and clicking and then, once I pushed on the gas, did the dashboard chittering and HAC light, chunked down below and then went forward.
If you live in Seattle or San Francisco, this "normal" behavior would make you crazy at every intersection. there is no way that this is normal. Maybe a class-action suit from many of us will get their attention?
Paul
See my post to corancher.....
Paul
When turning the ignition to "on", I am supposed to hear the whirr of the fuel pump correctly if I listen close enough, correct? All I hear are two clicks (perhaps one turning on, and one turning off). How audible should this whirr be? Am I on the wrong track? I think I'll pull the dist. cap tonight before I leave to see if that could be the problem. I just gone done off-roading the weekend before, and the air filter was filthy... replacing and removing it did nothing. I was also pretty low on gas when it decided to quit working... adding more gas did nothing (aside from irk me if I now have to drop the tank to get at the fuel pump). Any other tips on things to check?
Steve, Host
Hope this helps.
Ken
Hope this helps.
Ken
Steve, Host
I wouldn't be surprised if the fuel pump were history at 285K though. My truck is at 215K, and I have been wondering when my pump will give up the ghost...
By the way, it is pretty much impossible to hear the fuel pump whir in this truck if you turn the key to 'on' without starting the engine. I tried it just to see.
hydrasport: it sounds like your A/C needs a charge - you can look at the sight glass to see if it is all bubbly (if so, yes, it needs a charge). As for the knocking under the passenger side floor boards, you will have to be a lot more specific. When does it happen, and what does it sound like? There isn't much under there.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I read all the messages here and am not able to find the answer to this questions.
I too have a 99 limited w/75k miles with a button on the 4x4 lever for engaging the center differential. The problem is I cannot get the indicator light to stop flashing and get it into a 4WD mode. I brought it to the dealer and he said there is NO PROBLEM. Any suggestion please?
Anyhow, I popped off the dist cap, and the rotor underneath had quite a bit of carbon on it. I also looked like a wire brush had been taken to the top of it before. So, following suit, I scrubbed the top of that guy off agin with a wire brush. Mmm, shiny and new. Put it all together, and it started right up.
I'm still not entirely convinced that THAT is what solved this problem. It seems as though it could have been vapor lock. Vapor lock for over 48 hours though?
Back to the truck itself. I love the vehicle, everything except the brake system. I've just put another set of front brake rotors on today, replacing the ones I put on in March 2004. They were so far out of whack that the whole car shook when you hit the brakes at any speed over 30 mph. Is there something about this vehicle that wears out brake rotors so fast?
I also get that "clunk" when I let off the brakes from a stop. It does feel like something is releasing the brakes, as if they got locked down when I applied them to stop. Doesn't do it all the time, but I'll definitely take the other writer's advice about lubing the driveline.
I look forward to hearing any other tales of faulty brake systems, since I don't plan to sell the vehicle just yet, I just wanted to make sure I'm not alone...
chankins
Get that rotor worn down too much with one too many wire brush scrubbings, and it wouldn't take much to stop the engine from starting - the tips of the rotor don't have a lot of margin for doing their thing. Makes a good $10 investment (go for the whole $15 and get a new cap too! :-)) if you are having starting problems.
Lastly, my old Celica (fuel-injected with in-tank pump) did this to me twice before the fuel pump failed. Both times the pump gave it one more try after I waited a day, then the third time it laid down and quit for good. Guess it was trying to tell me something. So it still might have been the pump. Good luck!
ecodoc: if you have a constantly flashing dash light and your dealer says "NO PROBLEM" then either he is totally incompetent and you should have gone elsewhere years ago, or he doesn't understand what problem you are trying to report. The light is not supposed to keep flashing when you engage 4WD. Go for a drive with the service writer, and demonstrate the problem for him/her. And don't ever let the dealer off with such a dumb answer again - if you know it's a problem, then there has obviously been a miscommunication somewhere.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I have a 1999 Toyota 3.4L V6 SR5 4WD (manual transmission). 2 years ago, my "Check Engine" light came on. I've been ignoring it for a long time (almost 40,000 miles!) but now I need to get my Mass. Inspection sticker, so I need to fix it.
Going to an "Autozone" auto parts store, they hooked up the diagnostic connector on my 4Runner to their OBD II handheld diagnostic device. The device indicates the error codes were 1135 and 0125. Inside the store, they can look up the codes on their computer. Assuming you always add a P to the code, they are:
P1135: "Pedal position sensor A circuit intermittent".
P0125: "Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control".
Let’s start with the first one: P1135.
Huh??? I have heard of a "Throttle position sensor", which is located under the hood on the throttle body, and detects the throttle position. Does anyone know if the "Pedal position sensor A" is the same thing as the “Throttle position sensor”?I want to be sure. I looked on the OBDII home page, and I could not find error code P1135 listed! Since the first “1” in 1135 indicates “manufacturer”, and a “0” in that position indicates “SAE (Society of Auto Engineers)”, I’m thinking that 1135 is a special code specific to Toyota and not the general OBDII codes for all vehicles. The closest OBDII code I found was:
P0124 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Intermittent
So, I’m not sure what P1135 really means, since P0124 has the same meaning according to the ODBII diagnostic code table.
If I assume the description of 1135 on the computer at Autozone was inaccurate, and I try to match 1135 with the ODBII diagnostic code table, the closest match is P0135, which is:
P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Though, I had the codes checked a month ago (after neglecting them for 2 years), and the code P0120 was stored, along with 1133, 1135, and P0125. P0120 is:
P0120 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction
So, does anyone know if I have a real problem with my Throttle Position Sensor (“TPS”)? Or, does is there really a problem with the O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (assuming the code P0135 is what I should go by)? I was thinking that because of the next code P0125.
Another confusing thing. For code p0125, The computer at Autozone, as well as the IDBII Diagnostic code table, has this:
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
My coolant temperature has been fine, and the level is fine. However, when I looked in a service manual (by “Haynes”), that same code is listed like this:
P0125 O2 Sensor heater circuit fault.
Wow – could this be my pre-catalytic converter Oxygen Sensor failing? What’s up with the strange description “Insufficient Coolant Temerature for Closed Loop Fuel Control”?
Anyway, if anyone has any experience with these error codes, I’d appreciate the help. Also, if it does turn out to be the O2 Sensor, what are the odds I’ve ruined my catalytic converters? I have two, since the vehicle is California Emissions.
I want to do as much as I can on my own, because I do not trust the Toyota dealerships, and they are expensive!!
The good news is that the parts are in to repair my moonroof.
The bad news is that the dealer says they need my 4Runner for 3 days. Maybe they're planning on painting the vehicle while they've got it in the shop?
Can't wait to see what loaner car they'll try to stick me with this time.
Is is me or does anyone else dread bringing in their cars to the dealer? I'll keep you posted on my developments.
I asked him if he could lube the yoke as suggested by Polartoy. The dealer says they don't typically do this till 35,000 km or so. I only had 19,000 km. He said he'll do it anyways, even though its not really a warranty thing.
It didn't make a difference. Either he was pulling my leg and did not lube it or did a poor job at lubing. He said he'll look to see if there is a Transmission programming update.
The clunk does not always occur prior to acceleration from stop. It occurs also when you do a rolling stop. Then you'll feel a clunk as if some lightly rear ended you.
I'm clueless.
4run4play: it is all about sensors. The FI has a sensor to tell it how warm the coolant is and adjust accordingly, and it sounds like yours may have given up the ghost. The pedal sensor message doesn't sound smog-related, but still important. Actually, it sounds like a warning a drive-by-wire throttle might generate, but that model wasn't yet drive-by-wire in '99 was it? I can't remember. It certainly is for 2003 and up.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The fire quickly spread into the passenger compartment. By that time I had called 911 and a good samaritan with a fire extinguisher had stopped and tried unsuccessfully to put out the fire. It took about 10 minutes for the first fireman to arrive. By then, most of the car was already engulfed in flames. 5 minutes later the rest of the fire company arrived and began to get the fire extinguished. By that time, the entire car had been burned to a shell.
I have two observations about this: 1.) Thank God the gas tank never caught fire. The fire burned all around it. Both rear tires, the spare, and everything else in the rear of the vehicle were reduced to ashes. 2.) I was dismayed at the speed with which the fire breached the rear of the engine compartment. The car had a slow oil leak and the lower section of the engine block had deposits of old oil clinging to it. I'm sure this make things worse. Still, we had precious little time.