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Comments
The car had a slow oil leak and the lower section of the engine block had deposits of old oil clinging to it.
I am surprised that wasn't discovered during routine maintenance.
tidester, host
On the upside, I've been putting a hell of a lot of miles on that Highlander they loaned me.
Polartoy
I am assuming this happened when it was cold, and from the very start it was not shifting? If it was shifting fine, then all of a sudden during the drive it stopped shifting, that is something else. Like maybe the shift linkage, hard to say from here.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Rob
Here's what you need to do - it's simple.
1) Before you start your engine, press (and keep pressed) the Odometer button (not the trip button) on your dashboard.
2) Insert your key into the ignition and start the engine. In 2-3 seconds, the MAINT light will flash several times and disappear.
I've got 26K miles on my vehicle so I've done this 5 times so far.
Hope this helps.
When they called to tell me my parts were in, I was informed that I would need to leave my car with them for 2-3 days. When I called to set up a time, I asked them if they'd be able to set me up with a loaner. Long story short, I was told that it was the policy of the new dealership that they didn't offer loaner cars.
I've gotten tired of dealing with these "professionals". I called another dealership, explained my situation and was informed that it was Toyota's policy that a customer having warranty work done which required an overnite stay would receive a loaner car. I guess my former dealership didn't get that memo.
As a result, I'm starting the process over and bringing my car in to my new dealership in the morning. Not surprisingly, they'll even give me a ride to work and pick me up after they're done looking at my car - as it should be.
A word of warning to anyone in the Northeast who's thinking about doing business with LIA TOYOTA - think twice. I have not found them to be customer friendly when it comes to such basic tasks as warranty work.
I've got a 2003 4Runner, so my manual may be different than yours. But the information is in my manual. It took me about 5 minutes to find it. In the 2003 Manual, it is in Section 1-5, Operation of Instruments and Controls, page 123. It reads, in part:
"You need to reset the light after the engine oil replacement. Reset the light by following the procedure below:
1. Turn the ignition key to the off position with the odometer reading showing.
2. Turn the ignition key to the on position while holding down the trip meter reset button. Hold down the button utnil the light goes off. Before the light goes off, it illuminates for 3 seconds, flashes for 2 seconds and illuminates for 1 second."
I'm sure the same information is in your manual as well. Unfortunately, the index in the manual is not that great.
Thanks,
It could be a plugged cat if power and gas mileage are down.
You should be able to get O2 sensors for fairly cheap, like $20, and they were right, that could be the cause of heavy gas consumption too, although that would not decrease power. Now that you have the timing at 12 degrees, do you feel it is as powerful as it ought to be, or still sluggish? I assume this is a truck you had for a while BEFORE the new engine was installed, right?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I also noted that I reset the average speed to zero and set the vehicle on 60 mph on cruise control which it maints accurately, and the average speed shows 58 mph! This leads me to believe that the odometer reading the computer gets is less than actual which could account or the error. Of course, Toyota denies any problems in this system and will not investigate it. I intend to file suit against Toyota and the arbitration company who refused to test drive the vehicle during our hearing!
I will be very surprised if you win a lawsuit over this.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I hope sombody can help me.
I have a problem with the code for the radio, I know that I can go to the Dealer but if somebody here knows how to reset and set a new code I would be thankful.
My 4runner is 1994 SR5 V6 :confuse:
I would not expect the computer to be exact but rather within a 5% error range which is fairly typical of all cars I own. Buy a GPS or 2 and you will find that most cars typically overread slightly on speed and also on the odometer. My BMW has a 3% odometer and a 6% speedometer overread at speeds above 40MPH. It helps in keeping me out of Highway Patrols sights. Remember that if you change tire size, or any gearing you will also need to either recalibrate or account for that change.
My 4Runner (2005 V8 4WD) appears to be very accurate with speed and odometer. The computer is optimistic by about 2 MPG, but I just adjust for it. It's not a Cessna airplane so if its a bit out it is of no great concern.
Be aware that GPS's also have slight errors which typically relate to reception so they may also contribute to the error if you check it this way.
Anyone ever have this problem before and is the fan easy to get to? It seems to be somewhere in the area behind the radio in the center of the dash? At least that's where the noise seems to come from. What would the proper lubricant be, dry (graphite) or wet???
Thanks for any help!
Steve, Host
advise please.
Thanks.
wantitfixed: low compression in one cylinder usually will not cause a surging idle - I had a bad cylinder at 180K, and it still idled normal (it just had no power). That's usually caused by a bad valve, expensive to fix.
Surging and wandering idles are usually caused by bad sensors, or a malfunctioning ECU or MAF. Make sure the O2 sensors are fine, as they are the most common cause of problems like this.
gtw: I think you're right - bad ignitor.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I went to ToyotaDealer they told me rear exhaust needs to be fixed. It costs $250.
After It fixed until today, it seems to be OK.
Good luck
Jim
That's the safety feature of lights. If you tell your Car Insurnace Agent this, you should be some discount on it.
That's NOT a problem at all; your SUV is working great ! ! !
good luck
Jim
Thanks, John
The right brake light on my boat trailer does not work. Tracing the wires, it shows that the pigtail plug-in on my 1999 4-Runner has a dead right brake light connection, rather than something being wrong with the trailer lights themselves or the trailer wiring. I belive that the 4-runner wiring was a factory(?) installation, since the vehicle came with a towing pkg. I bought it used in 2002. I'm NOT SURE, but I think the converter box is integral with the pigtail connection mounted on the bottom of the rear bumper. Can anyone confirm this? A wire bundle comes out of the car by the rear bumper, to the trailer light connector, but I haven't undone the covering to count the wires to see if it's four or three wires in the bundle, since it is difficult to get under the vehicle as well as extremely hot now.
I've found a replacement at Advance Auto that has the converter integral with the connector, but it doesn't have any way way to mount it under the rear bumper.
The Toyota dealer was willing to sell me a complete wiring harness for $195.00, but I declined, after laughing loudly.
I need to get this fixed before I trailer the boat again, probably this weekend.