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I just bought an '05 Sport with the stock radio. (Single CD and casette.) Is it any "big deal" to replace this with an after market radio? Has any body done this yet? If so, what did you get? :confuse:
Any thoughts would be appreciated!
If it is not, ask them when the part was ordered.
How was the part shipped?
Where is the distribution center where the part is located?
Was it shipped FedX or UPS?
If so, do they have a tracking number?
If it was shipped by truck...what is the name of the carrier ?(i.e.trucking company)
The above questions will make them squirm......
We're getting quotes of about $5,000 to rebuild the engine or install a remanufactured engine, or it looks like we can sell the car 'as-is' for about $1,000-$1,500. My daughter really can't afford such a loss.
Does anyone have an idea of how to either get it fixed more cheaply or get more for it as-is?
Thanks,
Bob Kendall
tidester, host
(Edited by poster) After going online, I'd have to concur that $5000 is the expected price for a V6 replacement. A four cylinder should come in about a thousand less. Ouch. Toyota engines are expensive. The other option would be to consult a local high school or community college that has an auto shop. They may take your vehicle for training their students and do the work for free as long as you purchase the long block and any ancillary items (oils, filters, clutch where applicable, etc.) The vehicle would be down longer, but the repair would be free of labor charges.
Of course if she doesn't really need a 4Runner, the money would probably be better spent on a late model Civic, Corolla, Elantra, or Sentra WITH a warranty. Just remember any loan will require full coverage insurance. Good luck.
(The engine failure was caused by lack of oil because she didn't keep an eye on it. However either the car was very low on oil when she bought it or it was leaking/burning oil at a rapid pace for some other reason ... we'll never know at this point)
We did help her buy a replacement car (2003 Neon) and, yeah, she'll have full insurance coverage as she did on the 4Runner - but of course that insurance doesn't cover mechanical problems.
As for the VSC and TRAC light, that was because the Decel Sensor was undone. So they recalibrated the Decel Sensor under warranty ($84 if not under warranty).
I don't know if this would apply to your vehicle and the reason your lights are on, but I hope it helps.
If anyone has further insight I'd be interested to know.
:mad: P
It's a V6, 2WD; over the last 8 years we've replaced, through warranty and maintenance: water pump, head gaskets, radiator, timing belt (getting close to another one though), and master cylinder. Its only problem is a slow engine oil leak (1 qt. every 1000 miles - maybe every 4-6 weeks) which hasn't changed since we found out about it. We only drive it for short (>20 miles one-way) in-city trips. Though we're talking about replacing it, for financial reasons I'd like to keep it another year and have more saved for a down pmt. Is this worth repairing or should I give in to my hubbie and hit the dealerships?
More info here: http://www.freep.com/news/statewire/sw120907_20050907.htm
I'd try to get a dealer to fix the problem for free. If they play hardball, mention something about your almost accident. If they continue to stonewall, tell them how the local newscasters would love to here your story about someone's apparent lack of concern, when it comes to safety.
I blew a head gasket. The local ship wanted 2500 just for the gasket...I'm getting the total engine for only 100 bucks more...shop around!!
Where I took mine:
Motor Machine and Supply, National City Ca. 619-474-9366
We have a 1999 4Runner with 91K and it's time to replace the timing belt. Some of the shops I've called recommend just checking the water pump and tensioner pullies and only replacing them if bad, others say replace 'em all at once. I think I may have them do the water pump just to be safe, but is it worth taking a chance that the tensioner pullies will make it till the next timing belt change if they still look OK now?
Thanks!
I have a 95 4runner V6 and is getting over heating problem when driving 25-30 mins on the stop & go road. When I drive on the HWY, it seems ok, and when I get on to the local road again, the heat starts to rise. I was told that it was the fan clutch problem. I replaced it with an after market one from Autozone. It was no good, problem still persists. A week later, I found a used fan clutch at a junkyard from a year older 4runner. I replaced it and drive for a few days, problem is still there. Can anyone tell me what kind of problem do I have here? How can I tell if it’s a bad fan clutch or something else? The water coolant looks good and full. I don’t think this is the thermostat problem? Could it?
I drive this car for 8 years, haven’t had this problem before. I recently changed the timing belt and all other belts over a month before this happened. After the belts were changed, I notice the engine runs smoother and seems helping a bit on gas.
Any hints/tips to fix the problem that would be very helpful
Thank you
Other posters can elaborate on other causes, but I'd go with the replacing the thermostat. If that doesn't help, then I'd recommend taking it in for service.
Thanks for the tips. I am going to replace the thermostat, flush radiator and check out the hose this weekend. I notice one of the belts, steering belt, is a bit loose. Mind as well adjust it too. Hope this will fix it.
I really don't hope it's head gasket failing. Is there way to check if it is head gasket?
About the fan clutch, when the car is running and still cool, the fan runs very strong. But when the car is hot, the fan clutch is very soft and no resistant. That's how i see it when i test with increasing the gas to check the fan turn, even with the one i replaced. Should it be strong all the time?
I've never read of a similar problem with a moonroof nor have I ever had any moonroof issues.
$2300 ? That hurts big time.
Does anyone has a fix to this problem.
After some persistence with the dealer, Toyota Canada sent the dealer a new drive shaft. I'd tried to get some specifics as to what was the cause.
The vehicle doesn't do the thuds anymore. There was a noticeable change. However, I'm still a little paranoid if they really fixed the problem.
I'm not completely convinced because I may have some other problems with the car. In my limited knowledge of vehicle mechanics, I think the truck is too heavy for the brake system. The brakes always seems to struggle stopping the car smoothly. Very hard to explain.
Perhaps that is the nature of the 4Runner. I can't be convinced that is the case after spending that much. :confuse: :confuse:
After flushed the radiator and checked thermostat over the weekend. Problem still persists, except it takes longer to get over heat, ran it w/o thermos.
Based on what Squeakydeke describes, i'm like 80% certain it's a bad fan clutch. It has no resistance when the engine is hot and it can’t turn any faster when i increase the gas. I can even stopped it w/ my bared hand in effortlessness.
it was difficult to decide if i should go ahead buy from dealer and replace it. But i am not 100% certain if it's the fan clutch problem for sure and if it's not, then i will lose the $ on part, because it can not be returned. If it is, then i could save big $ on labor.
So, i decided to bring the car in dealer today to have them diagnose.
Thanks
Wangs04
They give you a 12 month 12,000 warranty.
The warranty is great. However, I know many people who could not pass smog with these rebuilt motors. So-ask them, "Would you put in writing that this motor will pass the smog test when I have to go?
With the flushing and changing coolant over the weekend, I thought that did the trick. But after I picked the car up from the dealer and drove home, it’s still happening shortly I got off the HWY. What’s a bummer!
My gust still feels it’s got to be the fan clutch problem. So today I happened to bump into a mechanic guy and asked his opinion about a bad fan clutch. This is what he told me. “When the car is hot and if the fan clutch still turns 3 or more rounds after the engine turned off, then you can junk that clutch away”. I tested mine per his suggestion. It’s indeed, extremely bad.
I’ve been calling the around Toy’s dealers for the part. Unfortunately, they don’t have it in stock, need to be special order and wait for couple days to arrive. However, NAPA has the part in stock and half price less than Toyota.
Anyone has good experience with NAPA part? Do they make quality/reliable part?
Do you think it’s a good idea to replace with NAPA clutch?
Thanks
Wangs04
I actually stopped by Napa and checked out the part. The Napa one looks & feels better than the one at Autozone, made in USA vs China, respectively. So i bought it and will take a shot at it tomorrow.
FYI, Price at Toy's dealers range from $140-$170. Napa's $80
I'll keep all informed of how it goes and hope it's gonna be a good news.
Thanks
Wangs04