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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Was this request for me?

    No, not unless you are aka dlrjaz.

    tidester, host
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    You can be under the speed limit and still be driving too fast for the conditions. If there was heavy ponding on the road or if it was oily then you may well have hydroplaned.

    Your steering didn't fail. It continued to control the front wheels. The problem was that the front wheels were no longer in effective contact with the ground. The spin control system detected that you were losing control. The brakes and engine did not fail. Instead, they were working to try to control the truck, by reducing throttle and selectively applying the brakes.

    Slow down in bad conditions.
  • kloftuskloftus Member Posts: 4
    I explained that my speed was not faster than anyone else on the fly over or Interstate. I also explained that I slowed the vehicle as I climbed the fly over. My car did not loose contact with the road "instantly" it came after driving on a "new" concrete surface for nearly a mile.
    If it's my tires then I will go change them tomorrow.

    I like my 4Runner.
    I have owned several Toyota's and don't have any issues with the manufacturer.
    This is the first time that I have ever experienced a situation with any car that resulted in (what I believe to be) a perceived loss of multiple controls.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "This is the first time that I have ever experienced a situation with any car that resulted in (what I believe to be) a perceived loss of multiple controls.

    Almost impossible. It was most likely "hydroplaning!"
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    Agreed. There is no way that multiple systems "failed" simultaneously and then "unfailed" simultaneously.

    I strongly believe that you were hydroplaning and that the responses that you experienced were due to the spin control system trying to control the truck.

    "my speed was not faster than anyone else on the fly over or Interstate" Different vehicles have different capabilities.
  • runner2000runner2000 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I was wondering if you ever found a solution to your error codes P0125 and P1135?
    I have a 2000 V6 SR5 (Auto) and just read the codes with my code reader (after the engine light came on yesterday.
    These are the the only two codes listed as being stored P0125, and P1135.
    All I have found out so far is:

    P0125:Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Operation
    After the engine is warmed up, heated oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) output does not indicate RICH (greater than equal to 0.45V) even once when conditions (a), (b), (c) and (d) continue for at least 1.5 minutes:
    (a) Engine speed: 1,500 rpm or more
    (b) Vehicle speed: less than 62 MPH
    (c) Throttle valve is not fully closed
    (d) 140 seconds or more after starting engine
    Problem Area:
    Open or short in heated oxygen sensors (band 1 sensor 1) circuit
    Heated oxygen sensor (bank 1 sensor 1)
    Air induction system
    Fuel Pressure
    Injector
    Gas leakage on exhaust system
    ECM

    As far as I can tell P1135 is Toyota Specific
    P1135 O2 Sensor B1S1 heater ckt open/short

    From what I've seen recommended is to replace the o2Sensor
    Any help or solution is great thanks!

    Thanks,
  • ybike2ybike2 Member Posts: 2
    I've been struggling with this same issue. In fact, my 02 Sequoia stalled three times today. I found this site - http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200207/ai_n9092642 - added brake fluid to the master cylinder and problem is gone... Go figure!!!
  • iwangs04iwangs04 Member Posts: 22
    Hello forum,
    My original post of this problem was back in over a month ago. The last post I left off was that I was about to install the new fan clutch, purchased from NAPA, and hoping it would fix my overheating problem. It did not. I had to put my original fan clutch back on and thankfully that NAPA gave me a refund.
    Here’s a brief recap of what I have been doing to my car from last few weeks. Still, the problem hasn’t fixed.
    After the last try from the new fan clutch that didn’t work, I ran out of ideas. So I took my car back to the same Toyota dealer, where I have them checked it first time and didn’t see the overheating, and requested them to do an extensive diagnose. At end of the day, the dealer called and told me that it needs a new fan clutch. Ummm, back to my original thought… But I warned them that I had tried with 3 different fan clutches already, 2 new and a used, and none of those is fixing the problem. But I thought they are the experts and they must be right, so I agreed to have the dealer put the fan clutch on. After picking up the car and on the way of driving home, I still see overheating as usual. I called the dealer right away and informed them that the overheating is still happening. They scheduled to check on the car again in couple days later.
    While the car was overheating and I checked on the new fan clutch. The new fan clutch was as weak as the old ones, very soft, and practically there was no resistance at all. I still think there might be something that is controlling the clutch and perhaps it is not working properly??? Based on the clutch manual, the clutch should run faster with some resistance when it detects hot air. Does this sound right to anyone?

    Back to dealer on the next appointed schedule and left the car there over night for more troubleshooting. This time, dealer replaced and tested with a new thermostat. It was no good either, still running hot & overheating. Since the new clutch is no help for this problem, they put my old clutch back and did little more diagnose. Now they have come to a conclusion that the car needs to be replaced with a new head gasket. This is just shocking me a great deal and it is the least problem I was hoping for. I don’t see/notice any leaks on either internal or external and neither the dealer found any leaks. So can that be possible for a bad head gasket if there’s no obvious leak? If I want to have it done, it’s gonna cost me big, est. $1500-$2K.
    I am still debating on the decision and also have lost the credibility from the dealer. Because what they did to my car is basically the same kind of work that I’ve already tried, which I told them before. They also charged me $235.00 without fixing the problem. Do you think this is reasonable or I got ripped off here?

    My observation- I don’t see or feel any obvious behavior changes on my car. It runs and drives strong. As I can see, the overheating is not severe yet (I think). It happens mostly when the weather is warm/hot after 30 mins drive or off the Hway. When the gage gets to about ¾ on the temp-dial, I’d turn the air control to hot then the gage will stay in middle for a long time. I’m still driving to/from work, less than 20 miles each way. I see no evident leak in either oil or coolant. I am not by any means an abusive driver. The car has just slightly over 100K miles and is still very young for the so called ‘quality’ of Toyota’s engine. Therefore, the head gasket problem is still a doubt on my part. But if it’s really a bad head gasket then I will make it worse if I keep on driving…

    A month prior to the overheating problem, all the belts have been replaced with new belts, including the timing belt and the water pump. Henceforth, I noticed the engine runs softer and quieter. As the matter of fact, it uses less gas. But before the belts were replaced, I noticed the humming sound of the fan used to be very loud at accelerations. I don’t hear much of the humming sound any more. The overheating began to happen a on a long trip of 6 hrs drive, which was about a month after the belts replace. So I don’t believe it has anything to do with the belts? If it does, I supposed the dealer would probably detect it??

    This problem has been ongoing so long and I’m desperately needed for a resolution. Anyone have any previous experience with this similar problem or suggestions, it’s most welcome and appreciated.

    I just also have learned that the head gasket symptom seems to be commonly happened with 95 4runner. If it’s supposed to be that way then my luck is seemed very slim. :cry:

    4Sale, any taker?
    Wangs04
  • biglatkabiglatka Member Posts: 78
    Iwangs,

    Funny, I was just about to post a message to you asking how things worked out.

    Sorry you have not found the solution and a moderate cost fix. Do you remember I suggested a month or two ago to have a cylinder leak down (leakage) test done? The test is not expensive and will pinpoint if you have any internal coolant or exhaust leaks (both) of which can cause your overheating problem without any external signs. Take it to a shop that does this kind of work (it will be cheaper than Toyota). If it proves out to be as I first suspected you will have to make your decision then. At least you'll know for sure what you're dealing with and what it will cost to truly fix. If you need to change the head gasket(s), I assume it is a V6; you can get a valve job included with only the machine shop work on the heads as extra cost. You may want to mill the heads anyway if the head gasket was blown.

    I don't think $235 is excessive, given Toyota's labor rates. They spent time on your truck diagnosing the problem and installing the fan clutch. Your labor is a lot cheaper (grin).

    At least do the cylinder leak down test. I still think you have an internal leak (coolant or exhaust), your symptoms certainly point to this. Good luck with it.

    Take care
  • catsmithcatsmith Member Posts: 3
    I would agree with that statement...which is why I purchased a Toyota in the first place. But this is coming from a long line of problems I've had since I've owned the vehicle. For instance...I drove off the lot...radio didn't work properly...turns out it was defective...so then we took it back...they replaced the defective radio...but they failed to attach the wires to the steering wheel so I can adjust stations/volume from the wheel. Had to go back again. The alarmI had installed...went haywire after a month...it would go off every 10 minutes (I thought our neighbors were going to kill us after about an hour)...they replaced a defective alarm. Our dome light in the trunk also broken when we bought it...they had to replace that as well. The rear windshield wiper also doesn't work property...the blade doesn't wipe the full scope of the rear window. So to top it all off....my master cylinder was replaced. I've spent more time at the dealership service center than I'd like....especially for a new car...so I am frustrated....and would like to be educated on why my NEW car is such a mess!!! I am not happy that it was "taken care of under warrenty!" You must have a better answer than that. How about all the time that I've lost? That can't be replaced under warranty.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "I drove off the lot...radio didn't work properly... turns out it was defective...so then we took it back...they replaced the defective radio...but they failed to attach the wires to the steering wheel so I can adjust stations/volume from the wheel. Had to go back again."

    OK- Did you check everything BEFORE YOU DROVE OFF THE LOT? And the second trip was caused by HUMAN ERROR nothing wrong with the car.

    "The alarm had installed...went haywire after a month...it would go off every 10 minutes (I thought our neighbors were going to kill us after about an hour)...they replaced a defective alarm."

    This was a aftermarket alarm installed by the dealer. How can you blame Toyota?

    "Our dome light in the trunk also broken when we bought it...they had to replace that as well."

    Again- when I buy a new or used car-I do not drive it off the lot until everything meets my expectations.

    "So to top it all off....my master cylinder was replaced."

    This goes back to my original post-even in a new car you can get a "new defective part". You probably could not have spotted this in your pre-delivery inspection YOU SHOULD HAVE PERFORMED.

    I am sorry about your frustrations.
  • catsmithcatsmith Member Posts: 3
    yes we checked everything before we left the lot....we informed them of the dome light...which they would have to fix on a different day....the radio WORKED....but later the buttons controlling the mode & preset functions didn't work. so it's not like we didn't check it...there are some things you don't expect from a new vehicle. perhaps you're a seasoned veteran...but there are some of us out there that go to a good dealership because...because as you can see...i don't know that much about cars...i'm paying a reputable dealer to make sure i don't run into these minor & major problems. i accept human error...but i don't accept human error when i bring my car in about a problem with my car...and they tell me they simply "couldn't duplicate the problem" and let me drive off...only to have 2 weeks later the car break down on me. if that's human error.....then all i have to say is...i won't accept human error to waste my time and jeopardize my life. so I DID SPOT THINGS IN MY PRE-_DELIVERY INSPECTION!!!! there were hidden problems we couldn't have spotted that came up.
  • runnermanrunnerman Member Posts: 2
    Im having a problem with my '92 runnner. After driving sever miles, when i slow down i hear a clicking noise comeing from my front end. I also have a feeling that my front diferential is not properly engaging. Can anyone tell me what is going on?
  • iwangs04iwangs04 Member Posts: 22
    Thanks Biglatka for the tips.
    That's my next step, bring to a different shop to check for leak.

    wangs04
  • bmello00bmello00 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there,
    Had the same problem with my 87 Supra. The radiator itself was the problem. The tubes had become clogged over time, due to some minerals in the water that had plated out into the system. The radiator needs to be disassembled and cleaned by a pro. They run a thin rod through the tubes with a cleaner and clean out the deposits. You're just not getting enough flow through the radiator to cool the engine. I went through the same process, fan clutch, thermostat, etc...but finally found the problem.
    Good luck.
  • nicollenicolle Member Posts: 1
    The starter in my mom's 1995 4runner has gone out...the mechanic said it would take longer than expected to fix it, because he has to take the engine out to replace it. I have never heard of anyone having to remove an engine to replace a bad starter....is it just me or is she getting screwed?? Any advice would be much appreciated.
  • wrenchspin2wrenchspin2 Member Posts: 37
    Can the fog lights be adjusted on a 2005?
    I prev. owned a 2000 and I was able to adjust them up and out a bit.
    The setup on the 2005, at least to my eyeball, looks like the assembly just clips into the housing slots...I didn't see any adjustment screw(s) like the 2000 had.
    Thanks.
  • aurnaurn Member Posts: 1
    hey, do you have a 2005 4runner? I cant stand the steering wheel shaking when it gets to about 58 mph...its pretty bad but the dealership says nothing is wrong even after they r/b wheels,etc. Did u find out what's wrong? 2005/2wd/sport/V6
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    or out of round issue. Take the truck to a tire shop with a hunter balance machine.
  • iwangs04iwangs04 Member Posts: 22
    Hello there (bmello00)
    Thank you for sharing your experience. I believe it’s more likely the problem. Because it’s not overheating when the weather is cool and some parts of the radiator are clogged, it’s less room for the water to cool or just enough room to cool on the cool weather.
    I am going to take the car to a different shop and ask for a 2nd opinion. Might as well have the radiator poke.
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    My father is expericing the same problem during light braking to moderate braking, driving in reverse and using the brakes. His 4runner is a 1995 1/2.(the mid year renewal) The dealer sent a paper offering a recall for the 3rd time :mad: 1 After the first recall, it was ok for about a month but it became worse. Does yours sound like a loud thudding sound more like the entire vehicle shakes (not the brake pads or tires, all have been replaced)? Does anyone have any solutions?
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    It happed 2wice in our 19951/2 th 1st time was on the fl turnpike. we turned off the a.c.and turned it back on. no spray. we just went on as if it was a fluke. the second time was a month later when we were going to lunch on a hot 95º day we just canceld all plans and rushed to the toyota dealer and a block b4 the turn in it suddenly stopped :surprise: besides that, the service department was closed. Has ne1 else experienced this or heard of this?

    ps we suspect this as coolent but the a.c. is frigid cold and we've never experenced anything like this. no one was harmed. :D
  • ng199ng199 Member Posts: 2
    I recently got a used 1999 Toyota 4 Runner and I am having trouble with my radiator. The meter on the dashboard keeps rising up to "H" when I get stuck in traffic, but its fine when there is normal flow of traffic. It happens regardless of whether or not the A/C is on. I can't figure out whats causing it. i replaced the thermostat and bled the system but the meter is still rising. I have checked for leakage but couldn't find any. I had a friend check it out and he couldn't find anything wrong. Can anyone else tell me what I can do?
  • alotawattsalotawatts Member Posts: 44
    Anyone know if the 2001 V6 has a bleed bolt for coolant flushing/refill ? If so where is it ?
    thx
  • biglatkabiglatka Member Posts: 78
    There has been plenty of discussion on this topic. Do a search on Iwangs04 posts. You can get an idea what has been been tried. Maybe he'll post when he gets it solved.
  • runnermanrunnerman Member Posts: 2
    hey Autobiy16. I found out what the problem is. Its actually a valve in the REAR of the truck. the valve is for the brakes. I forgot what the name of the valve is called, but when one wheel is sliping is sends braking to the other one? something or another like that. Its only really needed if you are in to rock climbing. I for one am not. The part is about $100- $200 and the labor is about the same due to the bleading procedure. I wonder if it is posible to just do away with the valve entirely.

    If anyone has any info on the possibilities of this please tell me. thankyou
  • wilkinswilkins Member Posts: 1
    :( Did you ever hear anything back on your question? I just bought an 05 4WD Limited and have started to notice persistent resonance in the steering wheel.
  • iwangs04iwangs04 Member Posts: 22
    Hi ng199,
    Look like we're in the same boat here Budd. I was told by the Toyota dealer that mine has a head gasket problem but my car has not been overheating last few weeks 'cause the weather is so cool. It's very strange.
    Anyhow, my car is at the shop now, as we speak, to have the head gsket check and will go from there.

    good luck w/ yours
  • marty_in_mesamarty_in_mesa Member Posts: 9
    I know this is old, but we just bought a 2003 4Runner LTD. It had 32k miles on it. I noticed the gasket around the sunroof buckling at the corners and the rubber strips coming up from the windshield up along side the sunroof doing teh same. I took it in and they replaced the 2 strips and they DID have to replace the glass to cure the sunroof rubber problem. I suggest that if it is under warranty, get those replaced ASAP! :-)

    Also, is the rear hatch supposed to open on its own when unlatched? Or do you lift it like any other? Also read some mention about the hatch closing on its own if not closed all the way? Just trying to understand how the hatch is supposed to operate.

    Thanks in advance!
    Marty
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    Check the manual. I believe it describes this.

    No, the rear hatch does not open on its own. When you open the hatch, you have to physically pull it up until the gas struts take over. When you close the hatch, you have to close it enough for the latch to engage. Then an electric motor engages and pulls the hatch tightly against the truck. You'll hear it and feel the hatch move slightly.
  • george_s1george_s1 Member Posts: 2
    Find another mechanic. I believe the '95 model year is the same as the ''90 and I have replaced the starter myself in the driveway and also had it done 5 years later at Toyota. (another story as to why it went to a dealer). To replace the starter jack up the right front, put on jack stand and remove the front tire. There is an access panel you will need to remove to get access to the starter. The only tricky part is the upper bolt. You need about a 24 inch extension on your socket wrench to reach it as you need to go into it from the front. I don't remember but you may also need to drop the front skid pan.
  • george_s1george_s1 Member Posts: 2
    Have a similar problem with a 1990 4-runner. It will start the first time in the day but after you turn it off and then go to restart after 15 to 20 min it won't turn over. I'll wait for a few minutes try again and it will start. The starter was insatlled by the dealer a little over a year ago, I've checked the connections and the battery and all looks good.
  • cementcitykirkcementcitykirk Member Posts: 3
    About every 15 min my speedometer starts making a loud noise and the needle jumps up about 30 MPH higher than actual speed. Also the cruise works very erratic. Is there something I should lube or replace? Thanks Kirk
  • cementcitykirkcementcitykirk Member Posts: 3
    Had that problem from a bad battery once, would not start when hot but let it cool down and BINGO it would turn over and start.
  • biglatkabiglatka Member Posts: 78
    Try greasing your speedometer cable shaft. Pull it out of it's sheathing, either from the transmission end or where it goes into the back of the speedometer..
  • cementcitykirkcementcitykirk Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, will try, does the dash have to come apart or can I get the cable out from behind the speedometer.
  • biglatkabiglatka Member Posts: 78
    I've never had to do it on a 4Runner. On one car I did it to, I was able to snake my hand in back of the speedometer and unscrew the cable housing then pull out the shaft. On another, I got to the shaft by getting it out the end that went into the transmission (probably the best and easiest method). In either case, you grease the shaft and push it back into the housing. I'm not sure what grease I used, probably lubriplate(sp?) or something like it. Ask in an auto parts store or a Toyota dealer. Hope this helps. It cured my speedometer needle jumping around.
    Good luck
  • ng199ng199 Member Posts: 2
    iwangs04,
    Let me know how it goes!

    Thanks
  • chris_gchris_g Member Posts: 4
    Folks,

    I have a 2004 V6 4wd 4Runner that eats front brakes. The originals were down to the metal at 14k. I then had premium pads installed and the rotors turned and they lasted 11k. Toyota only covers brakes for 10k and they are calling this normal wear. I haven't towed anything yet and the wife drives it mostly to run the kids around but 11k? That can't be normal. My friend has the 2003 model and still hasn't had to do brakes at 38k, which is what I would expect. Anyone else seen this issue? Please point me to the right discussion group if this isn't it. Thanx.
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    I've got a 2003 V8 4WD 4Runner with about 40,000 miles. I'm still on my original brake pads. Dealer says they're at 50%.

    Does your wife ride the brakes (i.e., left foot brake while right foot on accelerator)?
  • 4runner32544runner3254 Member Posts: 2
    I am getting a hydrolic noise from the break pedal in my 05 4runner V8 Sport. As if air is escaping a piston. The noise occurs in the first inch while depressing the break pedal. I took the truck into the dealer where a mechanic drove the vehicle to hear the noise. He wrote it off as 'normal' and asked if I wanted to test another truck on the lot to confirm. The same noise was heard but at a weaker level in the new vehicle. Is anyone else having this issue within the cabin from the break pedal? This noise is NOT coming from the break pads but the pedal system. Any solutions?
  • neumie2000neumie2000 Member Posts: 133
    The brakes on the 4Runner operate on a hydrolic system. What you hear is the hydrolic pump regenerating the hydrolic fluid. You should hear a slight buzz sound every third or fourth time you hit the brake pedal. All 4Runners do this and it is completely normal. Hopefully this is your issue, and you will be able to rest easy!!
  • pasta75pasta75 Member Posts: 7
    Hey everyone,

    I have a 1992 toyota 4runner, and I have been modifying it over the 4 years I have had it, with no problems finding parts...until now. I ordered brighter backup lights (1156) and just went to install them today and come to find out they aren't the right bulb! I checked many resources and they all say that for the 1992 toyota 4runner the backup bulb is an 1156. On mine though, it isn't. It is actually an 921 which is used for the 1993 model year. Has anyone encounter this yet? And does anyone know a brighter 921 light bulb that would work? Also I have 31" tires on my truck now, does anyone know if I put a 2.5" suspension lift on my truck if they will fit? Or, if they will, will I have to go to a higher gear ratio to run them?
    thanks
  • mjuenemmjuenem Member Posts: 8
    I had a Mazda MPV where every now and then (not often) would send a fine fog out from the dash vents with the AC on. It seemed to happen only on the most humid days and it only lasted less than a minute when it happened. It was definately NOT coolant but plain water. I always thought it was the condensed by-product of the AC unit that puddled in a certain area of the ductwork and then got into the airstream whenever it was making more water than normal (extremely humid days). I remember the first time I saw it I was surprized. I ended up driving that MPV for 180K miles (just traded for 4Runner this week) and never had a problem with the AC. Didn't even recharge it.

    Mark
  • audreymaudreym Member Posts: 103
    My mother-in-law's Town & Country did that (back when the A/C worked) once or twice. I always assumed it was the humidity in the air that was in the vents before you turned the A/C on that got super-chilled.. ::shrug::
  • 4runner32544runner3254 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for the reply. If the noise was occurring every time would that eliminate the possibility of the noise coming from the hydrolic fluid? A good example of the noise is when you open the trunk on the 4runner and the piston lets out a hiss. Exact same type of noise. It happens every time I press the break in the first inch or so. Any other suggestions? Thanks for the help.
  • vwilliams3vwilliams3 Member Posts: 1
    We have a 1995 Toyota 4 Runner, the back brake line has a hole in it somewhere but we can not find the line to find the hole, could someone tell us where we can find the line.
  • rcemrcem Member Posts: 1
    How can I lift my rear cargo door higher? I and others keep hitting their head getting into the back of my 2002 4runner. Is there a market for gas struts that will lift my rear cargo door about 6" higher?

    RCEm
  • wulffman1wulffman1 Member Posts: 16
    I am writing again under a new title for an issue mentioned on my post #1246.
    I have an 05 4x4 Sport now with 10k on the clock, and this concerns a drive line/transmission shake at around 45mph. This used to occur only in 5th gear, gentle throttle (low revs).
    It feels as though the driveshaft becomes oblong and the body shakes from beneath, notably.
    I used to cure it by lifting off the gas, or tapping into 4th to raise the revs. The last week it seems to have gotten worse and I just noticed it this evening, with gear lever in 4th, going downhill, and was able to simulate the shaking for as long as I held it at 43mph.
    The wobbling I noticed from the 1st week of ownership and the sales manager at the time commented that it was probably the transmission not locking up but that it would probably iron itself out.
    I am now concerned since I plan to own this vehicle for many years, and do alot of mileage and will run out the warranty in no time.

    Anyone else had this issue?

    I also have numerous other issues with the vehicle (sulphur smell, defective tires etc) none of which have been satisfactorily corrected by the dealer, or through research through forums.
    I am starting to wonder if I made a mistake buying this vehicle, as I have traded one set of problems for another, and paid an extra $20k for it!
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Not following you here: 31" is one of the two stock sizes (31x10.50R15), so they should fit without a problem. My old '90 was running that size tire with a 2" lift. I never changed the gearing, although the V-6 is definitely a bit of a dog when you run the bigger tires. Changing the gearing would help.

    Did you mean 32" tires?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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