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Comments
No, not unless you are aka dlrjaz.
tidester, host
Your steering didn't fail. It continued to control the front wheels. The problem was that the front wheels were no longer in effective contact with the ground. The spin control system detected that you were losing control. The brakes and engine did not fail. Instead, they were working to try to control the truck, by reducing throttle and selectively applying the brakes.
Slow down in bad conditions.
If it's my tires then I will go change them tomorrow.
I like my 4Runner.
I have owned several Toyota's and don't have any issues with the manufacturer.
This is the first time that I have ever experienced a situation with any car that resulted in (what I believe to be) a perceived loss of multiple controls.
Almost impossible. It was most likely "hydroplaning!"
I strongly believe that you were hydroplaning and that the responses that you experienced were due to the spin control system trying to control the truck.
"my speed was not faster than anyone else on the fly over or Interstate" Different vehicles have different capabilities.
I was wondering if you ever found a solution to your error codes P0125 and P1135?
I have a 2000 V6 SR5 (Auto) and just read the codes with my code reader (after the engine light came on yesterday.
These are the the only two codes listed as being stored P0125, and P1135.
All I have found out so far is:
P0125:Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Operation
After the engine is warmed up, heated oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) output does not indicate RICH (greater than equal to 0.45V) even once when conditions (a), (b), (c) and (d) continue for at least 1.5 minutes:
(a) Engine speed: 1,500 rpm or more
(b) Vehicle speed: less than 62 MPH
(c) Throttle valve is not fully closed
(d) 140 seconds or more after starting engine
Problem Area:
Open or short in heated oxygen sensors (band 1 sensor 1) circuit
Heated oxygen sensor (bank 1 sensor 1)
Air induction system
Fuel Pressure
Injector
Gas leakage on exhaust system
ECM
As far as I can tell P1135 is Toyota Specific
P1135 O2 Sensor B1S1 heater ckt open/short
From what I've seen recommended is to replace the o2Sensor
Any help or solution is great thanks!
Thanks,
My original post of this problem was back in over a month ago. The last post I left off was that I was about to install the new fan clutch, purchased from NAPA, and hoping it would fix my overheating problem. It did not. I had to put my original fan clutch back on and thankfully that NAPA gave me a refund.
Here’s a brief recap of what I have been doing to my car from last few weeks. Still, the problem hasn’t fixed.
After the last try from the new fan clutch that didn’t work, I ran out of ideas. So I took my car back to the same Toyota dealer, where I have them checked it first time and didn’t see the overheating, and requested them to do an extensive diagnose. At end of the day, the dealer called and told me that it needs a new fan clutch. Ummm, back to my original thought But I warned them that I had tried with 3 different fan clutches already, 2 new and a used, and none of those is fixing the problem. But I thought they are the experts and they must be right, so I agreed to have the dealer put the fan clutch on. After picking up the car and on the way of driving home, I still see overheating as usual. I called the dealer right away and informed them that the overheating is still happening. They scheduled to check on the car again in couple days later.
While the car was overheating and I checked on the new fan clutch. The new fan clutch was as weak as the old ones, very soft, and practically there was no resistance at all. I still think there might be something that is controlling the clutch and perhaps it is not working properly??? Based on the clutch manual, the clutch should run faster with some resistance when it detects hot air. Does this sound right to anyone?
Back to dealer on the next appointed schedule and left the car there over night for more troubleshooting. This time, dealer replaced and tested with a new thermostat. It was no good either, still running hot & overheating. Since the new clutch is no help for this problem, they put my old clutch back and did little more diagnose. Now they have come to a conclusion that the car needs to be replaced with a new head gasket. This is just shocking me a great deal and it is the least problem I was hoping for. I don’t see/notice any leaks on either internal or external and neither the dealer found any leaks. So can that be possible for a bad head gasket if there’s no obvious leak? If I want to have it done, it’s gonna cost me big, est. $1500-$2K.
I am still debating on the decision and also have lost the credibility from the dealer. Because what they did to my car is basically the same kind of work that I’ve already tried, which I told them before. They also charged me $235.00 without fixing the problem. Do you think this is reasonable or I got ripped off here?
My observation- I don’t see or feel any obvious behavior changes on my car. It runs and drives strong. As I can see, the overheating is not severe yet (I think). It happens mostly when the weather is warm/hot after 30 mins drive or off the Hway. When the gage gets to about ¾ on the temp-dial, I’d turn the air control to hot then the gage will stay in middle for a long time. I’m still driving to/from work, less than 20 miles each way. I see no evident leak in either oil or coolant. I am not by any means an abusive driver. The car has just slightly over 100K miles and is still very young for the so called ‘quality’ of Toyota’s engine. Therefore, the head gasket problem is still a doubt on my part. But if it’s really a bad head gasket then I will make it worse if I keep on driving
A month prior to the overheating problem, all the belts have been replaced with new belts, including the timing belt and the water pump. Henceforth, I noticed the engine runs softer and quieter. As the matter of fact, it uses less gas. But before the belts were replaced, I noticed the humming sound of the fan used to be very loud at accelerations. I don’t hear much of the humming sound any more. The overheating began to happen a on a long trip of 6 hrs drive, which was about a month after the belts replace. So I don’t believe it has anything to do with the belts? If it does, I supposed the dealer would probably detect it??
This problem has been ongoing so long and I’m desperately needed for a resolution. Anyone have any previous experience with this similar problem or suggestions, it’s most welcome and appreciated.
I just also have learned that the head gasket symptom seems to be commonly happened with 95 4runner. If it’s supposed to be that way then my luck is seemed very slim.
4Sale, any taker?
Wangs04
Funny, I was just about to post a message to you asking how things worked out.
Sorry you have not found the solution and a moderate cost fix. Do you remember I suggested a month or two ago to have a cylinder leak down (leakage) test done? The test is not expensive and will pinpoint if you have any internal coolant or exhaust leaks (both) of which can cause your overheating problem without any external signs. Take it to a shop that does this kind of work (it will be cheaper than Toyota). If it proves out to be as I first suspected you will have to make your decision then. At least you'll know for sure what you're dealing with and what it will cost to truly fix. If you need to change the head gasket(s), I assume it is a V6; you can get a valve job included with only the machine shop work on the heads as extra cost. You may want to mill the heads anyway if the head gasket was blown.
I don't think $235 is excessive, given Toyota's labor rates. They spent time on your truck diagnosing the problem and installing the fan clutch. Your labor is a lot cheaper (grin).
At least do the cylinder leak down test. I still think you have an internal leak (coolant or exhaust), your symptoms certainly point to this. Good luck with it.
Take care
OK- Did you check everything BEFORE YOU DROVE OFF THE LOT? And the second trip was caused by HUMAN ERROR nothing wrong with the car.
"The alarm had installed...went haywire after a month...it would go off every 10 minutes (I thought our neighbors were going to kill us after about an hour)...they replaced a defective alarm."
This was a aftermarket alarm installed by the dealer. How can you blame Toyota?
"Our dome light in the trunk also broken when we bought it...they had to replace that as well."
Again- when I buy a new or used car-I do not drive it off the lot until everything meets my expectations.
"So to top it all off....my master cylinder was replaced."
This goes back to my original post-even in a new car you can get a "new defective part". You probably could not have spotted this in your pre-delivery inspection YOU SHOULD HAVE PERFORMED.
I am sorry about your frustrations.
That's my next step, bring to a different shop to check for leak.
wangs04
Had the same problem with my 87 Supra. The radiator itself was the problem. The tubes had become clogged over time, due to some minerals in the water that had plated out into the system. The radiator needs to be disassembled and cleaned by a pro. They run a thin rod through the tubes with a cleaner and clean out the deposits. You're just not getting enough flow through the radiator to cool the engine. I went through the same process, fan clutch, thermostat, etc...but finally found the problem.
Good luck.
I prev. owned a 2000 and I was able to adjust them up and out a bit.
The setup on the 2005, at least to my eyeball, looks like the assembly just clips into the housing slots...I didn't see any adjustment screw(s) like the 2000 had.
Thanks.
Thank you for sharing your experience. I believe it’s more likely the problem. Because it’s not overheating when the weather is cool and some parts of the radiator are clogged, it’s less room for the water to cool or just enough room to cool on the cool weather.
I am going to take the car to a different shop and ask for a 2nd opinion. Might as well have the radiator poke.
ps we suspect this as coolent but the a.c. is frigid cold and we've never experenced anything like this. no one was harmed.
thx
If anyone has any info on the possibilities of this please tell me. thankyou
Look like we're in the same boat here Budd. I was told by the Toyota dealer that mine has a head gasket problem but my car has not been overheating last few weeks 'cause the weather is so cool. It's very strange.
Anyhow, my car is at the shop now, as we speak, to have the head gsket check and will go from there.
good luck w/ yours
Also, is the rear hatch supposed to open on its own when unlatched? Or do you lift it like any other? Also read some mention about the hatch closing on its own if not closed all the way? Just trying to understand how the hatch is supposed to operate.
Thanks in advance!
Marty
No, the rear hatch does not open on its own. When you open the hatch, you have to physically pull it up until the gas struts take over. When you close the hatch, you have to close it enough for the latch to engage. Then an electric motor engages and pulls the hatch tightly against the truck. You'll hear it and feel the hatch move slightly.
Good luck
Let me know how it goes!
Thanks
I have a 2004 V6 4wd 4Runner that eats front brakes. The originals were down to the metal at 14k. I then had premium pads installed and the rotors turned and they lasted 11k. Toyota only covers brakes for 10k and they are calling this normal wear. I haven't towed anything yet and the wife drives it mostly to run the kids around but 11k? That can't be normal. My friend has the 2003 model and still hasn't had to do brakes at 38k, which is what I would expect. Anyone else seen this issue? Please point me to the right discussion group if this isn't it. Thanx.
Does your wife ride the brakes (i.e., left foot brake while right foot on accelerator)?
I have a 1992 toyota 4runner, and I have been modifying it over the 4 years I have had it, with no problems finding parts...until now. I ordered brighter backup lights (1156) and just went to install them today and come to find out they aren't the right bulb! I checked many resources and they all say that for the 1992 toyota 4runner the backup bulb is an 1156. On mine though, it isn't. It is actually an 921 which is used for the 1993 model year. Has anyone encounter this yet? And does anyone know a brighter 921 light bulb that would work? Also I have 31" tires on my truck now, does anyone know if I put a 2.5" suspension lift on my truck if they will fit? Or, if they will, will I have to go to a higher gear ratio to run them?
thanks
Mark
RCEm
I have an 05 4x4 Sport now with 10k on the clock, and this concerns a drive line/transmission shake at around 45mph. This used to occur only in 5th gear, gentle throttle (low revs).
It feels as though the driveshaft becomes oblong and the body shakes from beneath, notably.
I used to cure it by lifting off the gas, or tapping into 4th to raise the revs. The last week it seems to have gotten worse and I just noticed it this evening, with gear lever in 4th, going downhill, and was able to simulate the shaking for as long as I held it at 43mph.
The wobbling I noticed from the 1st week of ownership and the sales manager at the time commented that it was probably the transmission not locking up but that it would probably iron itself out.
I am now concerned since I plan to own this vehicle for many years, and do alot of mileage and will run out the warranty in no time.
Anyone else had this issue?
I also have numerous other issues with the vehicle (sulphur smell, defective tires etc) none of which have been satisfactorily corrected by the dealer, or through research through forums.
I am starting to wonder if I made a mistake buying this vehicle, as I have traded one set of problems for another, and paid an extra $20k for it!
Did you mean 32" tires?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)