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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair



  • I am getting a hydrolic noise from the break pedal in my 05 4runner V8 Sport. As if air is escaping a piston. The noise occurs in the first inch while depressing the break pedal. I took the truck into the dealer where a mechanic drove the vehicle to hear the noise. He wrote it off as 'normal' and asked if I wanted to test another truck on the lot to confirm. The same noise was heard but at a weaker level in the new vehicle. Is anyone else having this issue within the cabin from the break pedal? This noise is NOT coming from the break pads but the pedal system. Any solutions?
  • The brakes on the 4Runner operate on a hydrolic system. What you hear is the hydrolic pump regenerating the hydrolic fluid. You should hear a slight buzz sound every third or fourth time you hit the brake pedal. All 4Runners do this and it is completely normal. Hopefully this is your issue, and you will be able to rest easy!!
  • Hey everyone,

    I have a 1992 toyota 4runner, and I have been modifying it over the 4 years I have had it, with no problems finding parts...until now. I ordered brighter backup lights (1156) and just went to install them today and come to find out they aren't the right bulb! I checked many resources and they all say that for the 1992 toyota 4runner the backup bulb is an 1156. On mine though, it isn't. It is actually an 921 which is used for the 1993 model year. Has anyone encounter this yet? And does anyone know a brighter 921 light bulb that would work? Also I have 31" tires on my truck now, does anyone know if I put a 2.5" suspension lift on my truck if they will fit? Or, if they will, will I have to go to a higher gear ratio to run them?
  • I had a Mazda MPV where every now and then (not often) would send a fine fog out from the dash vents with the AC on. It seemed to happen only on the most humid days and it only lasted less than a minute when it happened. It was definately NOT coolant but plain water. I always thought it was the condensed by-product of the AC unit that puddled in a certain area of the ductwork and then got into the airstream whenever it was making more water than normal (extremely humid days). I remember the first time I saw it I was surprized. I ended up driving that MPV for 180K miles (just traded for 4Runner this week) and never had a problem with the AC. Didn't even recharge it.

  • audreymaudreym Posts: 103
    My mother-in-law's Town & Country did that (back when the A/C worked) once or twice. I always assumed it was the humidity in the air that was in the vents before you turned the A/C on that got super-chilled.. ::shrug::
  • Thank you for the reply. If the noise was occurring every time would that eliminate the possibility of the noise coming from the hydrolic fluid? A good example of the noise is when you open the trunk on the 4runner and the piston lets out a hiss. Exact same type of noise. It happens every time I press the break in the first inch or so. Any other suggestions? Thanks for the help.
  • We have a 1995 Toyota 4 Runner, the back brake line has a hole in it somewhere but we can not find the line to find the hole, could someone tell us where we can find the line.
  • rcemrcem Posts: 1
    How can I lift my rear cargo door higher? I and others keep hitting their head getting into the back of my 2002 4runner. Is there a market for gas struts that will lift my rear cargo door about 6" higher?

  • I am writing again under a new title for an issue mentioned on my post #1246.
    I have an 05 4x4 Sport now with 10k on the clock, and this concerns a drive line/transmission shake at around 45mph. This used to occur only in 5th gear, gentle throttle (low revs).
    It feels as though the driveshaft becomes oblong and the body shakes from beneath, notably.
    I used to cure it by lifting off the gas, or tapping into 4th to raise the revs. The last week it seems to have gotten worse and I just noticed it this evening, with gear lever in 4th, going downhill, and was able to simulate the shaking for as long as I held it at 43mph.
    The wobbling I noticed from the 1st week of ownership and the sales manager at the time commented that it was probably the transmission not locking up but that it would probably iron itself out.
    I am now concerned since I plan to own this vehicle for many years, and do alot of mileage and will run out the warranty in no time.

    Anyone else had this issue?

    I also have numerous other issues with the vehicle (sulphur smell, defective tires etc) none of which have been satisfactorily corrected by the dealer, or through research through forums.
    I am starting to wonder if I made a mistake buying this vehicle, as I have traded one set of problems for another, and paid an extra $20k for it!
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Not following you here: 31" is one of the two stock sizes (31x10.50R15), so they should fit without a problem. My old '90 was running that size tire with a 2" lift. I never changed the gearing, although the V-6 is definitely a bit of a dog when you run the bigger tires. Changing the gearing would help.

    Did you mean 32" tires?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • No. She doesn't ride the brakes she just does a fair amount of city driving. At this rate I am getting brake jobs evry 5 - 6 months. It is getting to be a real pain but I can't believe this is normal.
  • Sorry, yes right now I am running (31x10.50xR15) and they fit fine. I want to go to a (33x12.50xR15). So, I don't know if I put a 2.5 inch suspension lift if they will work properly off road. I have recently saw two toyota tacomas' with this size tire on them and they did fit, as I am sure it would on my truck as well. But going off roading is where I am concerned. I don't know if there will be enough clearance with 2.5 inches of suspension lift. Even if it is, I am still unsure if my truck will have enough guff to run them, since this vehicle is also my daily driver, I don't know if I will have to change the gearing to get my truck to continue to perform properly. By the way, your right, the V6 is kind of a dog, I already have a complete exhaust system just begging to be put on but, it will have to wait till this spring.
  • I also had a similar problem and I could not figure it out, even my gas milage was dropping. It wasn't until I had new tires put on my 1992 toyota 4runner that I found out what the problem was! My problem was that my front calipers were dragging. When I depressed the brake pedal everthing felt fine. So I took their advice and changed both of the front calipers myself, check around for pricing if you decide to do this the price range really varies but the installation was not difficult at all. Or maybe toyota will warranty them for you since your 4runner isn't that old. Yeah, so any it did fix the problem. Hope this helps.
  • Hi, I have a 1992 toyota 4runner that has the same problem but it only happens once in a while. Sometimes I press on the brake petal I hear the same noise. I have had the vehicle for 4 years now and have done some work on it, pads, calipers, replacing brake lines, but the noise still comes back every once in a while. I also tried bleading the entire system, checked all the brake lines and everything is seemed OK. I think this is just a toyota thing, because I have heard other toyota owners mention the same problem. Hope this helped out.
  • I have a 1992 toyota 4runner that had the same problem and I can tell you definitely were to look! Just behind the passenger rear tire. Now you won't be able to see were I am talking about unless you jack up the rear of the vehicle. I had this problem for a few months and just couldn't find it until my brakes stopped working, that was not fun! Ok, so anyway jack up the rear of the vehicle and you'll see a tee in center of the rear axle where the two brake lines come together from the rear brakes. From there it almost goes straight up to a beam and goes to the right of the truck. From there the brake lines turn towards the front of the truck and then turn again towards the left side of the vehicle. It is at this turn that my brake line failed. I had to cut the line at a straight point and put in a compression fitting and run the new break line to the tee. I will save you some trouble here because I looked around for a DOT approved compression fitting (their black) and I couldn't find one so I had to use the gold one (I have been running my truck for a year and a half now with now more problems), but don't worry because it is in such a hidden place, know one can see it, so there will be no problem passing inspection. Another thing, while your there you will probably notice that the other brake line is rusted as well, might as well replace it because after I did the one brake line, the other one went about 3 months later in the same spot. Finally, (sorry this is so long) you will have to wiggle your way in there often using just one hand to work, so if you decide to do this yourself, you will have to sent aside some time and patience before you do this. Hope this helps you out.
  • Ok first off let me say she is getting screwed...big time. I have a 1992 4runner and just this past july and I had to replace the starter. I have a V6 in mine and I don't know if she has the V6 or 4cylinder but if you do it, it should be in the same place. YOU DON'T HAVE TO TAKE THE ENGINE OUT TO REPLACE IT!!!!!!!!!! The starter is in a bad spot, yes but it can be taken out of this tight area. It did take some maneuvering but I got the old one out and the new one in, in 3 hours. If you any other doubts, just contact any toyota dealership and talk to anyone in the service department and they'll tell you the same thing. Hope this helped. P.S. she should get a new mechanic!
  • I have a 1992 toyota 4runner V6 4WD. I have a noise that I don't really know how to describe other than it makes me cringe every time I hear it! When I turn the wheel to lock, right or left, it makes this really horrible noise. After having the vehicle for 4 years I have replaced many front end parts not trying to correct the problem but because they were worn out and I had hoped that at the same time it would correct this noise I have been hearing but it hasn't. I have replaced the Upper and Lower ball joints (both sides), the whole tie rod assemblies(both sides), both front drive shafts, repact all the front end bearings, greased all of the front end fittings and I have gotten rid of the the original wheels for some chrome ones. But I am still hearing this noise everytime I turn the wheel to lock( right or left!) Has anyone else had this problem or heard of how to correct it? Its driving me crazy because I don't know what else it could possibly be!...HELP!!!!
  • I'll take a stab at this, it's so simple that it seems too simple to solve your problem. There is a suspension "stop" on each one of the steering knuckles. The suspension butts up against them each time you turn the wheel to lock in either direction, and they do make a hell of a noise (scrapping rubbing noise) when you hit them. I solved it by putting a good coating of ball joint grease on each stop. It's a simple cheap fix if it works, nothing to lose. Hope this helps.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    the stops are worn out, and two screws are rubbing together. This is an extremely common problem with this vehicle when it gets old, and in fact I posted a link to a website that describes it in detail on this very thread some time ago. Google Toyota 4Runner zerk stops and you will get more info than you could ever want. You can fix them or you can leave them, I just left mine and made a mental note never to crank it all the way over. But I am lazy! :-)

    pasta: wish I could tell you for sure. I knew someone with a Runner running 32x11.50s with a 2" lift like mine, he was fine offroad. I have seen Runners with MAJOR lifts running 33" tires, but none with a smaller lift like that. Wanna go with a 32" tire instead?! :-/

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • :mad: I have a 95 4runner.
    I tried recharging the AC today, and I dont think I did it right,

    I located the low pressure port,
    Attached the hose to the port,
    Screwed in the can of coolant
    Let it drain, didnt seem to do anything, the presure gauge indicating how full it was looked like it went down. not up.
  • ferioferio Posts: 2
    Hi, we have a 2003 V6 sr5 4runner, sometimes the blower motor does'nt turn on any ideas? I tried turning the ignition on/off, fan on off, a/c on/off, nothing works. I've left the fan on hi for awhile and it turned back on it's own. The a/c compressor turns on/off fine but the fan is driving me crazy.??????
  • I had the same problem on a '91 sr5 4runner. Much older of course, but same symptom. I replaced (no, actually all I did was just reset) the fan blower motor circuit breaker, a little shiny box about the size of your thumb (mine was behind the glove compartment, the circuit breaker that is, not my thumb..., had to remove the glove compartment to find it, go figure) and I was going to replace it (the circuit breaker that is, couldn't find one, and then realized all I had to do was use a paperclip and insert it into the little hole of the circuit breaker and heard a little clinking sound and then presto, the fan has worked ever since, and boy is this a run on sentence, sorry to my Freshman comp teacher...
  • My '91 4Runner ran great till one morning, no spark, period. Tested the coil and distributor pickup coils and the resistance was according to specs. Was told it could be the igniter so bought one used on ebay. Started right up. Then ran it 20 minutes, was stopping at the bottom of a hill and I felt very little braking power for some reason as I was stopping and whammo, the engine just stopped. Thought it was the igniter again. Fiddled under the hood, saw that at first there was no spark again, just fiddled some more (checking wires) and then it started. Engine ran and brakes seemed fine. Same problem 30 minutes later and then again 5 minutes later. Any ideas??? Each time the ignition failed it was when (or just after) I was applying the brakes. (although I don't think the brakes seemed bad except that first time). No warning lights glowing on the dash. Does the brake sytem stop the ignition if there's abnormal brake pressure or something?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    question: did you have the ac compressor ON when you did this?
  • I figgured it out on my own. Loose connection. The 2-wire connection to the coil was loose, haven't been able to crimp it any tighter so I just used a couple of little pieces of aluminum foil and stuck it in the holes. Works great so far. No stalling. Now I got an extra igniter so I'm ready for that to go.
  • ferioferio Posts: 2
    I'll have to look into that. Anyone else have a 2003 4runner having this problem? I wonder if this'll be covered under warranty if the dealership tries to fix it.
  • blaskyblasky Posts: 15
    I had the same problem on my 1993 4Runner. Dealer would just grease up the ball joints when i would bring it in, and it worked great. I usually heard the noise while making a hard turn into a driveway and the shocks would engage. Id try this first - simple fix if it works.
  • blaskyblasky Posts: 15
    Hi Everyone -
    I just hit the 5000 mile mark on my new 4Runner purchased 7/05. In the past month or so, I noticed my sunroof would "chatter" a bit when it was closed. Its not a loud noise, but this was the first I ever noticed it. At first I thought it was the sun shade, but when i put my hand on the glass, the chatter would stop.

    Anyone else experience the same problem? I had my last 4Runner for 12 years and never had this problem with the sunroof, so it seems a bit premature to be happening at 5000 miles.

  • kupkup Posts: 1
    I am also new to this forum and have a 2005 4Runner Sport
    V-6 and would like to have the same info about Lubricate the propeller shaft and re-troque propeller shaft bolts.
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