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If it's something different, tell me! I have an '00 as well! :-)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
My guess with a drop in level that small is you actually ARE leaking it, and you will need to look other places to find it. You've checked hoses, especially the heater hoses at the firewall connections with the age of your truck? Also the water inlet. And of course, the water pump itself for seeping.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
HONDA...The 2006 4Runner LTD V8 4WD that I just bought is so well built and feels so solid and reliable and... it is an amazing vehicle (as an FYI I used to own a 1999 4Runner LTD V6 4WD).
The 06 Runner is sensational IMO. My wife rarely lets me drive it she likes it so much. The cabin is comfortable and loaded. Very stout feeling when driving it. A nononsence type that has looks to go with it. IMO the optional 17" wheels are worth getting. Your clearance is better as well as control.
I have had a Tercel, Corolla, and we still have our Camry. I would be scared to go with any other make. I have had too much reliability to risk changing.
I had test driven a Pilot and thought it was OK. But the Runner does not seem as tight as the Pilot and much more sturdy.
Spiders - Lithium base chassis grease NLGI No.2
Slide Yokes - Molybdenum disulfide lithium base grease
Drex
The sound can be eliminated or minimized at times by opening and slamming the rear hatch door closed. This however doesn't make a whole of lot sense because of the electronic latch, unless the latch isn't closing as tightly as it should or doesn't remain tight over time. (The dealer's service rep. said its not the rear hatch.) Anyone else have or had this problem? Any suggestions. :sick:
1) Remove instrument panel finish plate
2) Remove instrument panel finish plate sub-assy lower
3) Remove instrument cluster finish panel sub-assy
4) Remove console upper rear panel sub-assy
5) Remove console panel sub-assy upper
6) Remove air conditioning control assy
7) Remove instrument cluster finish panel sub-assy center
8) Remove radio receiver assembly w/bracket (2 bolts)
9) Remove radio bracket No. 1 (4 screws)
10) Remove radio bracket No. 2 (4 screws)
Sounds to me like one of these 10 items is loose. Last but not least, you'd think with all this redundancy that nothing would squeek !?
Could you also post the brand name of the grease you use and where it is available? Like AutoZone, Pepboys?
Is it synthetic?
Toyota dropped a new transmission in our 4Runner. The problem recurred in the second transmission within 24 hours -- believe it or not! Toyota told the dealer to try a synthetic transmission fluid and flush the new transmission. Problem went away.
However, the same week Toyota put the second transmission into the car they had to put a third catalytic converter in.
What I learned from this: Toyota quality is just a bad as everyone else.
My suspicion is that something is really wrong here, the service manager admitted seeing our transmission problem in 5 previous 4Runners and Sequoias with the same engine.
My theory is that the 5 speed transmission is not really up to the tow rating Toyota posted for this car. We decided to buy a SUV with a 8,000lb tow rating... a Durango that has a 70,000 mile warranty, a larger engine and a tow/haul mode on the transmission. No, I don't have a theory about why our 4Runner ended up with 3 catalytic converters in only 48,000 miles.
We were very disappointed with this vehicle. :lemon: The main reason I bought Toyota was it's tow rating and reliablity ratings. :mad:
Or maybe Toyota really did fix the problem.... NOT! Well at least not in ours. Our vibration started again within 24 hours of the second transmission installation.
I used CR as the main basis for buying the 4Runner. Something I'd never done before, something I will never do again. CR's ratings of the Toyota 4Runner, esp the positive review of the 03 V8 was important in deciding to buy the V8 vs the V6. Now I think there is something wrong with CR's ratings. I suspect that there is some sort of self selection bias. They survey CR customers only. I wonder how that affects their results. I know I will never buy another Toyota. More expensive and no more reliable than anyone else.
1. On very cold mornings I do get some piston-slap noise for about 30 seconds on cold startups. It's annoying, but harmless.
2. Around 2000 miles on the odo, I started to get a driveline noise while on the highway going 60-65 mph. It went away after a couple thousand miles.
3. The drivers seat started to squeak. Dealer fixed it with a shot of grease.
That's it. Overall, I'm very pleased. YMMV.
As for the fellow with the Durango, I wish you well. I hope your experience is better than that of my two friends with Durangos.
I used to own a piece oh junk 05 Odyssey (1st year generation model... and after 1 year of issues, oh boy am I glad I got rid of it,
never ever again HONDAs) and traded it in for a 2006 Sienna and have no issue so far...My point is,
besides the fact that HONDAs are cheaply made, as a rule never risk to buy first year generation of any make...If you find a really good alignment shop, it may be possible to improve it.
If your 4Runner only pulls starting and braking, then I dunno. My steering, like yours, was overly sensitive, but as the vehicle accumulated more mileage my steering improved. Don't have a clue as to why, although I suspect the tires were breaking in. I have Dunflops, but I've got Revo's on order. In prior threads, Michelin Cross-Terrain equipped vehicles had the happiest owners, but aftermarket Revo owners claim the best traction.
Consumer Reports takes no advertising money from manufacturers, and they buy their cars independently. Can that be said for other auto testing magazines? I'm sorry for the trouble with your Toyota, but can all those people CR surveyed be wrong or did they just make it up when they highly rated their 4Runners??
When the next generation 4Runner debuted in 2003, several owners posted about wheels having to be replaced, while a few complained about steering issues. I recommend searching the 4Runner forum with 'steering' as your search word. There are 10 pages to review.
You might try another dealer, especially if you can find one with the Hunter equipment. Last but not least, you can escalate to Toyota or grudgingly fork out the $$$ on your own to see if the Hunter 9700 will cure your 4Runner. Good luck.
73,000 is excellent life out of a set of rotors.
My dealership offered me 7yr/75k for $760. Seems like a pretty good deal and am tempted to purchase it...
The crazy thing he told me is that I could have work performed at a mom and pop shop and they can directly bill Toyota for the work.
Thing I would get it for is things like all the computers/electronics that seem to set you back a grand everytime something happens to them.
Am I nuts? I have always steered WAY clear of extended warranties.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I have an electrical problem on my 95 4runner. Whenever I press the brake or turn the signal light or use any instrument that has to do with electric/power, the voltage/battery meter does a quick drop or a jump to low. When it happens, the CD player would stop working for a few seconds.
This problem has been happening for couple months now. At first, it was less noticeable, until I found out when the CD player stopped playing. I have checked the battery cables & cleaned them. The problem goes a way for a few days. So each time I adjust/tighten the terminal cable (positive side), the problem is temporarily fixed.
The problem has grown bigger and become a big concern. At times while driving, the engine light and rear ABS light flash on when brake pedal is pressed. Another issue that at times when the ignition switch is turned to ACC (from ON to shut off the engine), the power is loss or the power is so weak that the clock is dim and the radio can’t even operate, because of insufficient power. And likewise when the ignition switch is turned to ON, engine not running, the power is no there or the lights on the dash board do not come on. If the key is left in the ON position, the power/lights on the dashboard will come on in a few seconds.
The strange thing is that it does not happen consistently or continually. For example, if I press the brake-pedal several times within second intervals, the problem is only occurred on the first press. The subsequent press seems to be minimal affected. It’s intermittent/sporadic problem with short circuit or perhaps a bad relay.
I took the car to a Toyota dealer other day. Dealer tested the battery and alternator system, they are all ok. Also checked wiring and related parts, connections are ok and found no wires worn creating short circuit. I was able to show them the problems, but they were unable to duplicate during the test and can’t find the root cause.
Any helpful insights and suggestions to fix this problem are much appreciated.
WANGS04
I was at around 16-17 mpg in mine, which was a stick-shift 4WD, and I mostly drove on weekends/longer trips.
iwangs: sure sounds like a short or a bad ground. Do you have any aftermarket stuff installed?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Mine was a 4WD, V-6, stick shift, 1990 model with the same powertrain as yours.
I traded up to a 2000 last year - whew, what a difference the 3.4 makes in available power, especially on the highway and at altitude! Does several points better for running fuel economy too - I'm averaging about 19.5 mpg.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)