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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • iwangs04iwangs04 Member Posts: 22
    Wish that i can help and i don't know what EGR problem is. I have same year 4runner. Mine hasn't had this problem, but it has other issues. You may want to expand little more about the problem and perhaps someone may have come across with your problem.

    Good luck
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Check the vacuum lines to the EGR valve before you go spending any money. Chances are, given the age, that one of them is cracked or broken, and replacing the hose may fix the problem.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • c2computerc2computer Member Posts: 4
    I am also having the same issues with my new 4Runner. I have 400 miles on it and it the brakes have been buzzing/vibrating since I got it. Of course the dealer says they cannot duplicate the issue... I opened a case with Toyota and am working on the service manager next. Right when I thought Toyota's service and quality was better than the rest they disappoint me. I plan on taking this as far as I need to to get it fixed, I don't care if it costs them $2000 to fix, it is a brand new car!
  • c2computerc2computer Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone who has this problem live in the Irvine, CA area? Thanks
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    You're not going to like this, but...

    They all do that. I believe what you are feeling is the electric pump for the brakes.
  • grahmmgrahmm Member Posts: 28
    Be sure and opt for the factory service contract if you decide to purchase one. The Toyota plan is excellent (I know from both sides/retired Toyota service manager + owner of Toyotas). After market plans might seem good and the finance people love to push them because of the hefty spiff they receive. The dealer will honor the Toyota plan without a concern while there are a lot of problems associated with some of the after market plans. Depending on location a "mom and pop" store can probably use the plan for covered repairs but why would you risk your transportation needs with a vendor usually using non factory parts and ill equipped from the knowledge side. Most shops are trying to fix many many brands and type of vehicle with a fly from the seat of the pants attitude and the results are not always what you would like. When I was younger I was a technical trainer for one of the countries largest automotive service providers. I switched to the dealer level and it was then I realized just how little the secondary service sector knew and right up until I retired last year it held completely true. I can take my vehicles anywhere that I would like to have work done at a discounted rate but I still take mine to a Toyota dealer. It does make a huge difference. All you have to do is see the difference year after year dealing with and trying to help other people who have opted to have things done the "cheap way" or gone to someone they thought knew what they were doing. I've seen too many engines/transmissions replaced from the quick lube "experts" along with countlees other horror stories fro independent garages. In an age when ASE certifications can be received by junior college students with no practical hands on experience it makes it hard for the consumer to judge.
  • ggoinsggoins Member Posts: 57
    anyone know why cars including the Runner have very dark driver and passenger window dark tinting. Dealer in AZ says they do not do it as here and in CA some DMV policy says not...but virtually every car I see has it....
  • uphill3uphill3 Member Posts: 2
    I purchased a used 2003 Toyota 4runner SR5 4x4 about a month ago. While driving, the brakes are squeaky on the right hand side of the vehicle when the brakes are not applied. When I apply the brakes the squeaking sound disappears and the brakes work perfectly. I have taken the vehicle to the dealer and there is plenty of brake pad and the rotors are not worn. Please advise.
  • teddybwareteddybware Member Posts: 1
    I am trying to figure out how to depressurize the fuel system to replace my fuel filter in my 1995 V6 4 runner. I have a manual that says to disconnect to wiring harness from the fuel pump but doesn't tell me where it is. I've spent over an hour looking and need help.
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    This is just a basic recommendation. Pull the fuse or battery cable as I believe the circuit might always be hot. This varies by manufacturer, but safety cannot be overlooked. Write down your radio presets if you pull the battery cable. The fuel pump is probably in the gas tank and you don't want to be messing with it. Removing the gas cap will release pressure, but it may be unnecessary as a vacuum may develop causing draining through the fuel line if the cap is opened and the filter is removed. My former 1986 Toy P/U had the fuel filter so well hidden it was just easier to pay a shop to do it, and I had to leave it there as repair shops won't work on it until the vehicle hasn't been run for several hours. When in doubt, job it out. :)
  • treitz1treitz1 Member Posts: 5
    That is what I thought too. Did not have time over the weekend, but I will post if I can fix it. thanks.

    T
  • wolfgang356wolfgang356 Member Posts: 4
    '93 4Rnr with Anti-Theft on cassette door. After 4 1/2 years the battery went dead causing the SEC light to light up on radio after replacing the battery. I set the code years ago but tried all my favorite 3 # PINs to no avail (even tried last 3 of VIN). Now radio says HELP. I was provided with 2 three digit codes that supposedly will unlock it but don't know key combo to get it past HELP display. Man, I can't remember stuff from last year --- much less from 5 years back! When entering the codes there is apparenty a 10 second time frame to do so -- I may have entered correct code but too slowly. Radio is worth maybe $20 so not worth dealer fix of $79. Has anyone reset code -- and can ya tell me how. Private message fine.
  • hottytoddy2hottytoddy2 Member Posts: 1
    Does anybody have a copy of the TSB on rattling moonroofs on an 03 4 Runner? What does the dealer do to repair this rattle? Mine is out of warranty and I guess I will have to do it myself.
  • slickrickslickrick Member Posts: 2
    I have a question: Should one, as a matter of course, replace the timing belt tensioner when replacing the timing belt? The vehicle is question is a '97 4-runner V-6, mileage is right at 100k, timing components all original. I'm thinking it would be smart policy, but what does the maunal say?
  • grahmmgrahmm Member Posts: 28
    If the dealer has addressed chances are there is no hardware issue (contact with rotor as it rotates)or caliper issue of riding to tight on the rotor (the rotor would typically be discolored and a pull would probably be present). Semi-metallic pads are basically ceramic with bits of metal ingrained into the pad to provide the stopping power and longevity. Two possibilities:

    1- The portion of the pad now wearing through is heavier in metallic content at that point causing the scraping noise you hear (mostly the cheaper the pads that have been installed the louder they can be/usually stopping power is ok).
    2- Sometimes in high humidity or wet conditions a patina rust can build up on the rotor as quickly as overnight, It can "sing" at slow speeds and give a slight "grind" type noise and slight slipping sensation on pedal application. It's annoying but not really problematical.
  • c2computerc2computer Member Posts: 4
    After bringing in my '06 2 times to the dealer, they claim it is design problem. The issue I am referring to is when you press the brake pedal 2 or 3 times, the accumulator pump "refills" and the pedal gets a nice vibration in it. If it is design, it is a very poor design.
    Anyway, just thought I would post this. Good luck on yours.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    I would only replace it if it is getting noisy. The manual does not say to replace the tensioner automatically.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • slickrickslickrick Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the input! I'll handle it from here. See you next time....
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    c2computer: the dealer's explanation is the same as my understanding. It really is one of those "they all do that" things.
  • grahmmgrahmm Member Posts: 28
    It would sure beat replacing everything involved if the tensioner should fail and shred or drop the belt. That could be a huge problem for you.
  • bobgordonbobgordon Member Posts: 156
    Just traded in my '04 Highlander Limited for a '06 4Runner Sport 4X4.
    I did a search through edmunds.com and cannot find an answer;
    Where did Toyota put the dip stick to check the auto trans fluid?
    The owners manual doesn't mention anything about location of this so my fear is that Toyota has made this a "serviced only by dealer" operation.
    I hope not since I like to do my own maintenance.
    Any ideas???
    TIA
  • david49david49 Member Posts: 5
    Dosnt have one special fluid toy. said it is good for 100000 mi then change the fluid.
  • iontrapiontrap Member Posts: 139
    There is no dipstick on the 06 trannies, v6 and v8.
  • kirknkirkn Member Posts: 4
    Has anyone experienced or can anyone provide insight to a problem I am experiencing with my '06 Toyota 4-runner Sport Edition. Intermittently and after coming to a complete stop, I experience a clunk/pop feel and noise when releasing the breaks. It doesn't appear to be a break system problem, but is either transmission/drive line or suspension related. I can't seem to put my finger on the cause or for that matter the actual effect. To further explain, it almost sounds and feels like the result of a worn "u" joint.
  • robm2robm2 Member Posts: 53
    My check engine, TRAC and VSC lights came on in my '04 4-Runner V8.

    Diagnosis revealed a system leak. They claim the gas cap was loose, (which I seriously doubt, but whatever), but that didn't solve the problem. They also did a smoke test and found a big leak from the "charcoal canister", that a "chunk from the canister was found to be missing, and that it had "a big hole."

    This was a $500 part that was replaced under warranty, however, what the heck is a charcoal canister, and why would a chunk of it be missing, leaving a big hole?
  • bobgordonbobgordon Member Posts: 156
    The charcoal canister is part of the emission system, EVAP. It, in short, is tied between your intake system and gas tank. It will absorb or hold excess gas vapors so they are not released into the atmosphere and then are burned when needed.
    Since this (charcoal canister) is mounted in a low location, it is very possible and likely that a hole or "chunk" could happen. Due to a rock or other road debris.

    BTW, it is important that when you gas up, tighten your gas cap completely as a loose cap WILL cause a fault and thus turning "on" your check engine light.

    Hope this helped! :)
  • neumie2000neumie2000 Member Posts: 133
    There have been numerous posts regarding a driveline "thump." It normally happens just after coming to a stop or just after releasing the breaks to get started again. The fix: have the dealership lube the slip yoke. I had the exact same problem you describe (04, SR5, V8)...and this completely took care of the problem. Good luck!
  • kirknkirkn Member Posts: 4
    Many thanks for the tip! I'll have the dealer do just as you recommend. One other issue I am experiencing is when the vehicle tranverses over minoir bumps I experience a hollow, but significant noise that seems to be coming from the rear of the vehicle. I read an earlier message that pointed out a "body mount" defect? Any insight?
  • bobgordonbobgordon Member Posts: 156
    I've read the earlier posts regarding the exhaust noise generated during acceleration/load.
    I've noticed on my 2006 4Runner that the exhaust manifold does appear to be rather "thin" thus producing the exhaust tapping noise.

    I'm curious to know if anyone has taken their 4Runner or other Toyota vehicle with the V6 engine to the dealer and what they said/did. I plan on driving another '06 4Runner this weekend and will see if it produces the same sound.

    Or if anyone has fixed (replaced) the manifold, what you used?
    Thanks!
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    while i could see it causing the ECU to toss a CEL, i'm having a hard time believing the VSC and TRAC lights would come on for that (unless the car was bucking violently).
  • neumie2000neumie2000 Member Posts: 133
    Can you describe the noise with a little more detail? Is it a type of "clanging" when you hit a pothole? Also, can you hear it with the windows up or only when the windows are down? Since new, mine has made a clanging type (metallic) noise when it hits a pothole. I can only hear it when the windows are down. I cannot tell you what it is...but I can tell you that I have been in several new model 4Runners, and the Lexus equivalents, and they have all made the same noise. I have not worried about it as the vehicle has been flawless since new and I don't want to "fix" what isn't broken.
  • agnostoagnosto Member Posts: 207
    I have noticed a clanging noise ONLY when the sun/moon roof is opened all the way intermittently... I have a 2006 Toyota 4Runner LTD V8 4WD... anyone else has experienced this... is this normal???
  • bobgordonbobgordon Member Posts: 156
    While I agree that the only light that should come on is the MIL, anything is possible with the OBD II generation. Maybe there were other factors or conditions.
    And I doubt that the car was bucking violently due to a hole/crack in a charcoal canister.
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    I had the same issue. I lubed the driveshaft zerk and the trouble was cured. Lately, I'm getting pinging while running 87 octane, so now I'm using 89 octane. I'd never heard it before til I took a short slow drive at 25mph with the windows down. I couldn't hear it with the windows up. Brand of gas makes no difference. Needless to say, I'm disappointed. This just started. I have a 2003 V6 with 20,000 miles. I'll followup if necessary.
  • bobgordonbobgordon Member Posts: 156
    You might want to try and clean your injectors.
    Purchase a bottle of Chevron Techron Fuel Injector Cleaner (at Target or auto parts store). Run your tank near empty and add this (per instructions) and fill with a good premium gas; Amoco Ultimate works well. Run that tank near empty, then fill with a 87 octane.
    Also, if a majority of your driving is city, take your 4Runner out on the highway and "open it up". City driving can cause deposits to form in the combustion chamber and cause a "ping" or pre-detonation condition.
    Good luck!
  • lynx50lynx50 Member Posts: 7
    Does anyone know if Valvoline Oil Change Shops are able to install the correct oil filter on a 2005 4Runner with V8 engine. Also do they have to remove the skid plate to access the oil filer and drain plug? Thanks.
  • grahmmgrahmm Member Posts: 28
    ALWAYS stick with the factory oil filter even if you have to buy one and bring it in. Toyota has engineered the oil filter for your engine. At your oil change shop your going to get the cheapest help and the best filter they can buy for maybe a whole dollar. I wouldn't chance it. You'll proabably find the dealer price about the same as the jiffy lubes. The quick lube outfits can do a lot of damage. Seen it time after time.
  • robm2robm2 Member Posts: 53
    The car was sitting in a parking lot, started it up, and all three lights came on.

    While I don't doubt that a loose gas cap can cause the check-engine light to come on, what I seriously doubt is that "I" left the gas cap loose, hence I thought it had to be something else.

    Either way, it was fixed under warranty, (otherwise a $750 bill). I also took the opportunity to get the slip yoke and propeller shaft lubricated.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    this is a test right? April Fools was the day before your post.

    what is a slip yoke and propellar shaft? ???

    all your lights probably do go on for a moment when you start your engine (how else would you know the indicator was working), but then should immediately go out.

    i'm honestly confused by your post. what does the repair bill say they fixed?
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    I have a 2002 4Runner and the door seals on the back passenger doors keep coming loose and hanging down. Back when it was still under warranty the dealer replaced both seals, but they are doing it again. Is there any fix for this, or certain glue that can keep the seals in place?

    Thanks
  • lazzarichlazzarich Member Posts: 37
    Agreed on the Toyota filter. Stay far away from fast oil changes. Jiffy cost me 2 transmissions, a transfer case and probably an engine when I was young and foolish (gullible).
  • kirknkirkn Member Posts: 4
    No, it's not a clanging noise. It's most noticable with the windows up and I can best describe it as a low pitch, hollow thud or series of thuds, when moving over small irregularities in the road (seams, small bumps, debris, etc.). I thought at first the rear door was not latched properly, or possibly one of the rear passenger doors was ajar or even the spare tire was loose, but neither was the case. It is very odd! It is possible that a body mount or two is loose or defective toward the aft section of the vehicle.
  • lazzarichlazzarich Member Posts: 37
    I have a 2005 4Rnr V8 Sport Edition 4WD (30k)with the OEM Dunlops. Are there any recommendations on a replacement tire. I have heard that the Bridgestone Revos are a good alternate. Traditionally I have used Michelin LTX. Most of my driving is freeway with occasional snow and mild offroad use. Thanks for the help.
  • david49david49 Member Posts: 5
    3M weather strip adhesive is made just for that,get it at a good auto parts store.
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    I got Revo's last month. But the stiff tires are rattling the fillings out of my mouth. I can watch my rearview mirror vibrate while driving on these tires. I have the SR5 suspension. The Sport suspension or Limited's air suspension would ride differently.

    The Revo's have only tackled rain, and have done so admirably. But I feel like I'm riding in a paint can shaker, even though the tires are aired at minimum 32psi. These are 'P' tires, not 'LT' tires. I feel every imperfection in the road. And yes, the tires are balanced and track straight.

    I didn't think much of the Cross Terrain tread pattern, but I was looking at LTX MS 255/70/17 which would be a close fit for the stock 265/65/17 tires.

    Unless my Revo's break-in and soften the stiffness over the next several thousand miles, I'll probably opt for the Michelins next time around. I may lose some traction, but I'll probably have a nicer ride. BTW, the factory Dunlops I had also took several thousand miles to get comfortable.
  • lazzarichlazzarich Member Posts: 37
    Thanks for the quick response. I personally have not had a problem with the Dunlop's and will probably get 50k from them. I was just wandering if there was anything significantly better ito comfort/handling.
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    50,000 will be a first for Dunlops around here. Mine lasted 20,000. I haven't had the Revo's long enough to answer your followup any more than my initial impressions. On reviews I've read, the Michelin owners were happiest about comfort and treadwear. But where traction was paramount, Revo owners bragged the most, although they equally complained about treadwear.

    If you want comfort and handling, Cross Terrains are probably for you. If you want an LTX tire, you'll have to change tire size (spare too).
  • ggoinsggoins Member Posts: 57
    I have the Michelins LTX M/S on my 97.Very nice tires...smooth on the highway and the best tire I have seen in heavy rain. Not a lot of experience in snow. Have 20K on them now still with much of the original tread.
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    The revo is optimized for offroad traction. If you're looking for onroad comfort and handling, I'd cross the Revos off your list.
  • lazzarichlazzarich Member Posts: 37
    Sounds like the best option is one of the Michelin's. I had LTX on an Isuzu and Cross Terrain on a Montero so am familiar with them. Will report back on the life of the Dunlops, but 50K seems easily within reach.
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