Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

daddio_51 · May 2006

We have a 2006 4Runner and there is a popping noise coming from the radio on FM. Doesn't happen on AM or CD. We've had it back to the dealer several times and they cannot or will not fix it. We drove another one and it had the same problem. Now Toyota says that it is "Normal" since they all do it. Best description is like someone tapping on the top of a microphone. Anyone have any luck with this?

ggoins · May 2006

I would ask around your town and find the best car stereo shop...they may have advance techniques for isolating the short....

daddio_51 · May 2006

I bought the car new in December and the first visit to the dealer was January. It's under warranty and they still won't fix it!

ggoins · May 2006

so.....ask the teenage component of the population in your town who has the best rep for car stereo...I am sure they will know Dadio....
they can download the 411 for ya nubee.take that fine tuning to your dealer and break it down for em ;=)

pa_rs · May 2006

I bought a new 2006 SR5 4wd V6 on friday night and it drove great for the first 59 miles. Tonight I put my whole family in the truck to go get groceries and 200 yds away from my driveway I start to hear this clanging noise undercarriage like something was catching in the transmission. I stopped immediately in the middle of the road and got off to check it out (maybe there is a branch stuck in some axle??). Nothing. Very gingerly start driving again and nothing up to ~20mph then the same noise starts again.
The repetitive clanging started slowed down as I slowed down, then disappeared. After that the car drove nice until I pulled into the store parking lot.
As you read this I was able to come home fine but I did feel/hear a few more very alarming noises. Now what do I do?? I WANT A NEW TRUCK! I am going in to the dealer tomorrow morning.

canddmeyer · May 2006

Definitely sounds bad. I have to ask, is your 2WD/4WD indicator yellow or green?

pa_rs · May 2006

I have been going around exclusively in 2H mode so no light was on.
I took it out last night for a quick trip around the block with nobody in the car so I could listen to all the little noises. I also tested all possible gears and 2H 4H 4L modes. The transmission seemed to work alright. The only exception was a moderate "clunk" when going from 2H to 4H and viceversa. Somehow I don't think that's normal.

canddmeyer · May 2006

Let your dealer give it a look. The 4Runner is so computerized it could be software programming causing issues with the VSC and other 'active' components. Of course it could be lots of other things (mechanical), but I don't expect the problem to go away until something is found wrong.

One more question, did your dash light up like a Christmas tree when this was happening?

Hopefully your dealer will find the trouble quickly so you can enjoy your vehicle once again. Good luck.

wearmouth · May 2006

I just joined and this is my 1st post! HELP! I just bought my wife a 2000 4runner Ltd last week, test drove it 3 times...perfect, got it inspected at my very reputable mechanic and got the ok to buy it.The day I got it home it wouldn't start!I can crank it 'till the battery dies and it wont start.Then 5 minutes later it starts no problem.I took it to the dealer and they replaced the plugs,test started it 20 times with no problems, I picked it up did some errends around town,it started perfectly hot and cold all day,then this morning it wont start.I am at a total loss. Our 4runner has 80 000miles on it, battery is brand new,I buy good gas where I have been filling up my '04 Tundra for 2 yrs.I dont want to go to the dealership and get nickel and dimmed to death buying starters,alternators etc... trying to source out my mystery problem by trial and error. Has anybody out there found a solution to this mystery problem? Thanks!

user777 · May 2006

does the vehicle have one of those smart key immobilizer protection systems? does this behavior happen with both keys?

one thing i would do is turn the key to the position just before all the way for the starter and listen for the fuel pump to come on. let it run for a few seconds and then turn the key all the way to start.

you should not have to apply pressure to the gas pedal to get the engine to start.

wearmouth · May 2006

Thank you for your reply and advice. I am horribly embarrssed with what the problem was. IT WAS THE LACK OF A CODED KEY! When I bought the truck they gave me one bare metal key and one with the thick black end on it and they failed to mention that one was a coded key and one was a key for the doors only. I was driving around town this morning when it suddenly dawned on me...came to me like a revelation, I called the dealership, asked if our 4Runner would have a coded key they said more than likely,went home tried the keys back-to-back...bamn problem solved,my wife is no longer mad at me for buying her a lemon, in fact she thinks I'm a hero! Thanks again for your prompt advice!

user777 · May 2006

those ahh hhaa moments are priceless huh?

don't be embarrassed here. honda typically provides 3 coded keys which all start the vehicle, but one is keyed for "valet" and will not open the glovebox or the trunk.

i'm not sure about toyotas but i would imagine the same would be true...

however, maybe the original owner lost the valet key and they made a spare just to get into the vehicle if they locked the keys in the car.

i dunno, but you would not be the first person to have this experience. it's always comforting to know someone has already "been there... done that..."

anyway, don't let your spouse completely in on the discovery, at least not yet. it's nice being a hero...may it last a while longer!

duke15 · May 2006

I have a 2002 4 Runner, and my wife lost one of our coded keys with the black plastic end. We originally received 3 keys, two with the black ends, and one regular, metal key. All three start the 4Runner. I don't know if this is different for the different years or not, but I thought I'd let you know just in case the info helps.

kakers · May 2006

I have an 03 4-runner with 30k miles on it and in the past year I have had intermittent electrical problems such as the back window and back defrost not working, or the windows not doing the auto up and down and the sunroof not auto opening and closing. I was told that the battery had some problems and they were going to replace it, but when I took it in they told me that it had checked out fine. Yesterday was our first hot day of the season and I turned on the car and the dash lit up like a christmas tree, and nothing worked except the radio. I had no air, windows, nothing. So I turned it on and off a couple of times and no change. I then tried to put it in to drive and it wouldn't go. I called the dealership and they told me that is must have been affecting my brake lights as well so I had to manually override the safety switch to get it into drive. About 40 seconds after driving off everything came on. Has anyone had any problems with this before, is it just the battery? I gotta tell you I didn't want to face the prospect of driving around in 90 degree heat with no air and no windows.
Thanks!

user777 · May 2006

did you purchase the vehicle new?

perhaps it doesn't have an immobilizer (your window sticker which you should have gotten when new would tell you...so would toyota's web-site probably.

perhaps toyotas offer different things based on trim level?

if it did have an immobilizer, and your keys were smart keys, then your vehicle is not protected as designed.

FWIW: my '95 corolla had 2 keys with black plastic handles and 1 all metal key. all started the vehicle, but the metal one wouldn't open the glove box or trunk... my '95 corolla DID NOT have an immobilizer circuit.

bobgordon · May 2006

It's rather hard to diagnosis over the "net" but here goes.

If you have a ground problem, other components will seek a ground to operate. That might not make sense but as far as an electrical or resistance stand point, it does.
Through-out your vehicle you have grounding points and a central ground from the battery to the chassis.
If one of these is loose, dirty or corroded, your electrical systems will seek a ground the easiest way possible and that might be going through your dash, lighting, etc.
So I would not condemn your battery yet. If at all. I'd check ALL the ground points on you 4Runner and go from there. Pay close attention to where the ground from the battery connects to the chassis.
Good luck to you!

ggoins · May 2006

grounding points is a good idea. have the dealer do a relay check from the battery back. if they can make it happen while it is in the shop they can find where the problem is.Be as specific as possible about what goes off and what stays on. Hope it helps.

tiem · May 2006

When I step on the brake pedal and I feel a vibration for my brand new 06 V6 4Runner. Is anyone having this problem? It bothers me alot. What should I do? I guess I did not do homework before buying this truck.

neumie2000 · May 2006

What you are feeling, I think, is the hydrolic brake system recharging itself. I'm no mechanic, but from what I've read, the 4Runner uses a hydrolic brake system. What you feel is a pump being activated to add additional hydrolic pressure to the system. What you should feel is a slight vibration in the brake pedal every couple of times you hit the brake, or, just after starting the vehicle. You should also hear a little humming when the pump activates, and it should correspond to the vibration in the brake pedal. If this describes what you are feeling, it is completely normal and there is nothing wrong with your vehicle. Mine has done it since new, and I've had almost three, trouble free years of driving. Let me know if what I've described is what you are experiencing.

Hope this helps.

lazzarich · May 2006

I am having an intermittent Radio problem on my 2005 4Rnr V8 4WD. Occasionally the radio volume will not adjust. After a few restarts of the car it goes back to normal. Dealer has indicated they will replace it. Anyone else with similar problems and a solution.

I also have an electrical problem in wifes 2004 Sienna. Is there a website for those vehicles?

nippononly · May 2006

"perhaps toyotas offer different things based on trim level?"

As a matter of fact, yes, they do (or did, I should say). In the later 3rd gen models (1999 up through 2002), the Limiteds got chipped keys that included an immobilizer, while SR5s didn't have that. Mine is an SR5 with regular keys, to which I added the standard Toyota alarm system.

drex1 · May 2006

Has anyone changed the spark plugs in the '03 Runner? Do you have a list of steps you had to go through to remove the various air cleaner housings, etc?

kreuzer · May 2006

Need help with my '99 SR5 4Runner. It's a V6/Auto. I'm trying to get my trailer lights to work and am not able to get the driver's side brake and/or turn single light to work on the trailer. Before I re-wired the trailer lights , I had the same problem with the trailer lights not working in the same way. All the lights/turn signals on my Runner work ok and when hooked up to my trailer both driver and passenger lights/turn signals work ok on the Runner. But, when I plug in the trailer, the driver's side part of the trailer doesn't work. The trailer package came with my Runner and I haven't used it until now - only owned my truck for about a year. Any suggestions on what to check and how to go about it? Thanks everyone.

nippononly · May 2006

Sorry, saw your post the first time, but I have never trailered with my Runner. However, if it is the factory tow pqackage, surely the dealer service department could offer some helpful tips, hopefully without charging for them?

drex1 · May 2006

I just changed the spark plugs on my '03 4Runner and wanted to share some of the information to make it easy for others. Before you start, ensure you have a really long extension (10-12") for your socket wrench and either a wobble extension or a universal joint (some of areas are difficult to work around)--even better in you have a locking extension.

1. Remove the plastic engine cover - 2 bolts

2. For the passenger side, you have to remove the air cleaner assembly to get at the spark plugs--real easy, just remove the intake hose clamp and them pop the latches for the air cleaner.

3. On the driver's side, you may want to remove a few of the hoses and electrical brackets that get in the way or you can just remove a bracket on the drivers side bank of the cylinder head. It interferes with removal of the middle and rear plug.

4. The electrical connectors on the plug coils are easy to remove. Push a clip and pry off the electrical connector with a screwdriver.

5. Then remove a 10mm socket head bolt holding each coil, and pull while twisting, the whole coil assembly pulls out of the cylinder head straight off the plug.

6. This is where you need those extensions. The plugs are very deep inside the head cover. A minimum 10" extension is necessary. I used 16" worth of extensions to make it easy.

7. Removed old plugs, installed new ones. Gapped the new ones to 1.0-1.1 mm before installing (Toyota plugs come pre-gapped). Also recommend using anti-seize compound on the plus threads.

8. Reinserted each plug coil, bolted it down, reconnected the electrical wire, reinstalled the bracket and the air filter hose.

FYI - There are a few other sites on the web with pictures of this procedure if you do a google search. Hopes this helps others!

duke15 · May 2006

I did purchase it new, and it is an SR5 - Sport Edition model. I don't know if it had immobilizer or not, I can't remember.

wulffman1 · May 2006

You sure you had the footbrake released?
Sounds just like what happened to me when I let someone drive mine when brand new and he did not release the break. Try recreating it, push the footbrake down half way and drive half a mile, if its anything like mine you will hardly feel the resistance but the clanging will start.

daxan1965 · May 2006

The Toyota clock uses 4 springs to make elictrical contact to the clock circuit, the springs are wound to loose to make good contact with the pins. for my clock, I took out the springs and soldered 4 short pieces of 30 gauge wire to the circuit board and no problems since. Please note that the pins are pressed thru plastic, you will need to provide a heat sink and solder quickly to make a good connection without melting the plastic. Good luck and boo to Toyota for a lousy circuit design.

uphill3 · May 2006

Problem solved. The brake shop sanded the brake pads and the squeaky sound is gone.

ckb123 · May 2006

I think what you are feeling with the brakes is related to the brake assist feature that is standard on this vehicle. I noticed the same thing myslef and I've only had it 2 days, but it made sense to me because the owners manual talks about the ABS and brake assist.

ttenrag · May 2006

The noise is a pop that comes from the thigh adjuster under the seat. There is too much play in the device and this causes it to pop when moved. There is no fix for the problem, and toyota has never acknowledged that it is a design flaw in the seat. I have been complaining about this since 2004....good luck! :mad:

tiem · June 2006

I think mine has more vibration than others. I complained with Toyota headquarter and later the dealer replaced the brake master cylinder. Now I still feel the vibration but alot better than before.

andrew17 · June 2006

My '95 Toyota 6 cyl. 2 wheel drive, 105,000 miles, developed an A/C problem:
1. -while the engine is cold, the A/C works fine for 5-6 minutes, then the air warms up while the compressor is running;
2. -re-starrting the engine and turning the A/C on/off, does not help.
It has been serviced only by Toyota; a month ago they tried to put more refrigerant in it, but it doesn't help. They told me they never heard of such a problem!

My colleagues think that the refrigerant is gelling (?), because the A/C was not turned on during the winter. Any suggestions?

Mr_Shiftright · June 2006

sounds like a classic expansion valve malfunction to me.

andrew17 · June 2006

Thanks for your timely response!

Andrew

ggoins · June 2006

I am going to take my 97 2WD in for a 120K service. I have previously replaced the timing belt and replaced the water pump. In addition to the dealer's recommended items, can any one think of items that should be done? Thanks.....

Mr_Shiftright · June 2006

I like to recommend that if your battery is about 5 years old or more, replace it; if the brake fluid hasn't been flushed in two years, do that; ditto for radiator coolant, 2-3 years.

I don't know the service cycle for your car on transmission and differential fluids.

I also ask at each service interval that the belts and hoses on the engine be looked over very carefully. The belts should not be glazed or cracked of course, and the hoses should not be soft or "bulged out" under pressure.

Also check the tire pressure and examine the undercarriage for any kind of leakage.

ggoins · June 2006

Thanks ;-)

nippononly · June 2006

diff oil should go every 60K miles (so it is due at 120K) and transmission fluid every 30K.

treitz1 · June 2006

I have a 95 4Runner with a 150k miles that runs great. A few months ago my engine light went off. The scanner gave a code 71; EGR valve. We put on a new one but the engine light won't stay off. Still reading code 71. We changed some of the hoses around to ensure good pressure and that they were in the right place, but no luck the light came back on. Any thoughts? T

bigsur06 · June 2006

Mr Shiftright:
I read your reply to andrew17 about A/C expansion valve in message 1787. I bought a 95 4runner this weekend and had exact same scenario he described.
What is a reasonable cost to expect from a repair shop for that, also saw a valve on ebay for 20 dollars for Camary. Is this an item that is the same for all Toyotas A/C or model specific? During my research I read on some models Toyota it is under dash, is that true for 4Runner. My 4Runner is 6cyl model, am I correct in assuming system must be pumped down valve replaced and system recharged (12 or 22?) thanks for your help!

Mr_Shiftright · June 2006

Here's some info on AC systems that might be helpful to you:

http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/techcenter/articles/46869/article.html

It's really hard to diagnose from a distance, so I really can't encourage you to just be buying parts that may or may not be an issue.

bigsur06 · June 2006

Thanks Mr shiftright/ main question is if expansion valve what is reasonable expecatation for repair shop cost?

Mr_Shiftright · June 2006

It rather depends on the reason for the failure. If they find the expansion valve clogged up with dessicate debris from the dryer, then you need to clean out the entire system and replace the expansion valve and the dryer. Also depends on where the valve is and how hard it is to get to.

rebel96 · June 2006

I've been getting vibrations when I get around 40 mph. It gets worse the higher it gets, but then I get off the gas pedal the vibration goes away. It's only at the higher speeds when I'm applying the gas. I had the tires balanced and rotated and it's not the alignment because it only happens when I'm pressing the gas. Basically, when I'm applying torque to the driev shaft. I'm thinking it may be the u-joints loose at the pivot. If I have it fixed at the shop how much do you think it'll cost. They'll probably have to take apart the drive shaft. Thanks advance for the help.

blov8r · June 2006

I like to recommend that if your battery is about 5 years old or more, replace it;

Here in the desert the heat devours batteries ... for those living in the hotter climates I recommend routine battery replacement no less often than 3 years. Bart :shades:

bigsur06 · June 2006

UPdate to problem: A/C during daytime after five minutes blows hot/ can restart engine and A/C still the same:..however if you use at A/C at night will blow cold constantly. I know the answer is to only use at night, but I would like to use during the day of course. Any idea what causes that diffrence at night and day, also system had refridgerent added at purchase.
Thanks for any help!

calviny · June 2006

Sometimes, I can only shift 1-3-5; and 2&4 can not be engaged.
Or, only the 2&4 can be engaged; not 1-3-5.

After I have made a completely stop & shift around for a couple times..then, it works fine.

I am suspecting that the synchronizer ring/worn shifter hub; is it correct..and, can I just only work on the gear box instead of taking the whole transmission out...

nippononly · June 2006

or maybe it is just the linkage between the stick and the transmission?

amy55 · June 2006

I have a1990 4-runner. I am the third owner. I have not driven it much because I have problems starting it. The starter has been replaced, has new spark plugs, and other work has been done. Once it starts, it runs very good. The problem is just getting it started. I read about the keys and codes, and spoke with a locksmith. He said this does not affect a 1990 model. I like the vehicle, it has almost 200k miles, but the motor is strong. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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