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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • rebel96rebel96 Member Posts: 2
    check if the air flow meter has any debris on it. if there is any debris on it, it causes starting problems. I would also recommend getting the throttle body cleaned.
  • bobgordonbobgordon Member Posts: 156
    Amy, could you clarify "starting problems".
    Do you mean that when to turn the key, nothing happens? Like a totally dead battery.
    Or the engine does crank over but fails to stay running?
  • caderomcaderom Member Posts: 3
    Hi Amy, I had the exact same problem in my '92 4runner. I also replaced the battery & starter, had a tune up, new spark plugs etc but still it wouldn't start. So my husband and a friend of his just started checking every wire and reconnecting them. We aren't sure which wire it was but they must have reconnected it tighter or something because I haven't had a problem with my 4runner starting for over a month now. :) I wish I could be of more help but maybe if you could have someone just go through your engine and make sure all your wires are plugged in tight enough. Mine would start every other time or so which would make since if a wire was barely connected. GOOD LUCK! I know how frutsrating it can be! :mad:
  • amy55amy55 Member Posts: 2
    Hi: by starting problems I mean that it tries to start but does not "catch". I thought it was because the weather was so cold. Once I could get it started it, if it did not run the battery down, it would be fine. During cold weather, forties and below, I would have to start it every two hrs. otherwise it might not start when it was time to go home from work. I gradually kept getting worse, and people kept working on it.
    Now I just cannot get it started unless I use starting fluid. If I can get started that way tomorrow, I will take it to a different mechanic and leave it there. Sometimes I did run the battery down trying to get it started. We replace the temperature sensor ? but I was told it has to be reset and the mechanic would be the one to do that. I am just trying different things. Several mechanics have looked at it and they are all puzzled.

    Thanks for any suggestions.
  • bobgordonbobgordon Member Posts: 156
    Amy, since you say that it will start with starting fluid (and be VERY careful with that) it sounds as though you have a fuel delivery problem.
    Have your mechanic connect a fuel pressure tester when the engine is cold and make sure it's within spec's.

    The other thing is to have your mechanic hook up a scanner and observe ALL the ECM (computer) functions. Again when the engine is cold. It could be that the ECM is seeing a "warmed up" engine and it's not.

    Good luck and keep us posted.
  • calvinycalviny Member Posts: 13
    thanks.

    Are you meaning that the clutch pedal freeplay to be adjusted???
  • kirknkirkn Member Posts: 4
    Update -- took the vehicle twice to my dealer and you guessed it -- the dealer claims it's normal or that it can't be duplicated. Seems as if a TSB has been issued for the Lexus GX 470 (TSB #DL001-06) with identical symptoms. Although greasing the slip yokes and spiders appear to reduce the clucking, it really doesn’t help with the constant vibration that the vehicle experiences.

    In any case, I've engaged a law firm and intend to take Toyota to task. Will communicate the outcome.
  • rsmith262rsmith262 Member Posts: 1
    When I first turn on my 4runner, I get a humming from a sealed unit located next to the brake fluid reservoir (master cylinder)for about 3-5 seconds. I cannot identify what this part is except that it is a sealed metal unit that is about 2.5 inches around and about 5 inches high. The only identifying marks is a warning that the item is under gaseous pressure. What is the part? And any help with troubleshooting is appreciated.
    Thanks
    Ron
  • beercoll1beercoll1 Member Posts: 88
    maxless
    I will be towing a trailer shortly, which weighs approximately 2000lbs. did you have any trouble installing the ball mount assembly onto your 2003 4runner? I have a 2003 4x4 V8 sport Edition.
    Thank you.
  • ericbechoericbecho Member Posts: 4
    I own a 2006 4Runner with about 20,000 miles on it. While braking in a parking lot (speed under 20 mph) I applied the brakes, the 4Runner started to speed up, I applied a lot more brake pressure, the 4Runner lurched a foot or two then stopped completely, and then the engine reved up to 5000 rpm or so and came back to normal when I placed it in park. Anyone have any idea what happened? Has anyone had this problem before?

    Just an aside I am sure that I was not on the gas pedal at the time. I have had the car serviced at every 5000 by the dealership.

    Eric
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    I had the problem before, but not with my 4Runner. It happened twice before I figured it out. My former Chevy K1500 extra-cab had front and rear floor mats that were very similar. I unintentionally reversed them after cleaning the vehicle. For whatever reason, movement of my feet had bunched up the floor mat at the accelerator. Then when braking, I apparently dragged my heel enough to stick the accelerator with the floor mat. The first time I got lucky and had no one near me, but it scared the unowhat out of me and I did not figure out what caused the unintended acceleration. The second time, thanks to a friends advice, I killed the ignition without locking it, and luckily I again came out accident free. But I was petrified as this occured twice in 30 days.

    That's when I noticed the bunched up floor mat. I reversed the front and rear floormats and never had another problem. Don't know why, but the rear mat would slide whereas the front mat stayed put. I surmise this is why Toyota puts floor mat hooks on the driver's floorboard.

    So my question is, are you using factory floor mats and the retaining hooks? That's all I can speculate. I hope you get this figured out, as I'd bet you'll be on edge for awhile when hitting the brakes.
  • ggoinsggoins Member Posts: 57
    I am planning a trip to Northern Alaska and wanted to get ideas for carrying extra gas as well if anyone has outfitted an 04 with spot lights and wench would appreciate any tips... thanks.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    How northern? If you stay on the road(s), there's gas all the way to Prudhoe. Get a copy of the Milepost (milepost.com) and it'll tell you where all the gas stations are, even in the boonies.

    Steve, Host
  • ggoinsggoins Member Posts: 57
    Thanks. North along the 1 to Fairbanks then off road to the East. planning is in progress.... just don't want to run out of gas so I thought to carry 2 five gallon (somewhere). Also a wench for trouble could be helpful...one never knows.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    If you run out of gas on the road system someone will stop (it may take an hour or three for the next vehicle to come along, but people are helpful in the boonies). Carrying gas anywhere but in the car's tank just seems like a bomb waiting to go off.

    No one calls the highways by number up there btw - the "1" is the Glenn Highway. Except it's the Seward south of Anchorage. I think; never learned the numbers when I lived up there. :shades:

    Steve, Host
  • ggoinsggoins Member Posts: 57
    thanks....good point.will check with my army buddies. they seem to do it safely.no worries.
  • lesm1lesm1 Member Posts: 1
    I have also have the no A/C blink light. The service garage replaced the solar sensor and it worked for 3 miles. They then replaced the compressor and it still turns off. Sometimes I can turn off the engine and it will restert. Ant solutions here. Thank you. Les
  • hkyhky Member Posts: 71
    My ac light was blinking with no ac several months back, the dealer replaced the relay and since then it's working fine.
  • drex1drex1 Member Posts: 41
    My 2003 4Runner (6-cyl) just started some fairly loud squeaking (chirping) from the area of the accessory drive belt. It does this when the engine is relatively cold. Any ideas? I just had the belt replaced about 2000 miles ago.
  • drex1drex1 Member Posts: 41
    My '03 4Runner (6-cyl) has always made a slight clicking noise from the engine. I am told this is just how the 4Runner sounds and it is from the fuel injectors. The 4Runner has about 33K miles and the clicking sound has increased in volume(at least I think so). The dealer says this is normal fuel injector noise. Any ideas of why the sound has increased at 33K miles? Also, should I do anything about this or just leave things be?
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    I have the same problem, and to me it sounds more like an exhaust leak, but you are right, it is the injectors. My neighbor swears it's an exhaust leak, since it can be heard from 40ft or more away.

    I'm living with it, at least until the day before the warranty expires. This is about the loudest vehicle for interior noise I've ever owned, and like you, I've noticed everything getting louder as the vehicle ages, and I'm slightly deaf.
  • bobgordonbobgordon Member Posts: 156
    You both are correct...
    Most of what you are hearing is in fact the injectors opening and closing but under a load, it's also an exhaust noise from the exhaust manifolds.

    My '06 V6 4Runner has a terrible exhaust noise under load; between 2000 and 2700 rpm.

    Toyota has a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for '05-'06 V6 for the Tundra with this very problem. It is an exhaust manifold replacement with a newer style manifold to remedy this problem. Toyota won't cover my '06 due to the fact that "not enough people have complained about it" for the 4 Runner.
    What's strange is that the exact same motor that is in the Tundra (V6) is in the 4 Runner.

    Not to worry, I'm not done with Toyota on this! Call customer service and if enough people [non-permissible content removed] about it, they'll listen. Toyota Customer Service; 1-800-331-4331.
  • spacemt6spacemt6 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a used 2003 4Runner that was doing the same thing. The dealership is replacing the tensioner that would produce loud chirping on a cold startup but wouldn't be heard if the car had been running for awhile. The dealership told me that there was potential for the tensioner to cease up and the truck would not be driveable. Have it checked out!
  • delealemkedelealemke Member Posts: 3
    I have almost the same problems with my 1997 4-Runner. Has yours been fixed?
  • wolfgang356wolfgang356 Member Posts: 4
    Mine did same thing --- it was a dark green plastic (or nylon) washer about side of 1/2 dollar at base of the shifter. It was broken --- replace and shifted great. Was like $5 and took 1/2 hour. I also replace trans oil with Valvoline Synthetic too.
  • wolfgang356wolfgang356 Member Posts: 4
    Isn't there a (Special Service Campaign) SSC for the expansion valve? --- was on both my '90 and '93. Dealer evacuated, replace vavle and refilled no charge (FREE) --- when 4Rnr was 10 years old. Check under TSB/Recall on Alldata to see if it covers your year.
  • delealemkedelealemke Member Posts: 3
    Thanks but I am having the problem with the electrical. Windows, Sun roof, air conditioner, gauges, and alternator are not working.
  • rodknockerrodknocker Member Posts: 1
    Could the return cyinder be bad on my 99 runner the pedal sometimes stays on the floor I need to know how to diagnoses this problem.
  • moto7moto7 Member Posts: 13
    Love my new 06 Sport V6, but i'm a little bothered by the Cruise Control over-revving on very slight hills. Unlike my other cars that smoothly accelerate slightly, The 4R appears to shift out of overdrive on mild inclines,increasing RPM about 10K. To me this is not efficient for MPG. I know it's not for lack of power 'cause when not in CC it takes only slight acceleration, with only 1-2K RPM increase, to maintain speed. I wonder if there's a CC adjustment Toyota Service can do?
  • robm2robm2 Member Posts: 53
    I've got a 2004 SR5 V8, with the 17" wheels and tire pressure monitoring system. I'd like to add a 2nd set of wheels, and I'm wondering if I need special rims, or also have to purchase a special kit, to have the tire pressure monitor on the new set of wheels.
  • mrkamzmrkamz Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 4Runner SR5. I just discovered that my brake lamps don't turn on when I press the brake pedal which can be a very dangerous thing. All three brake lamps are are not working which led me to believe it was the fuse which I checked and found out to be working fine. Toyota and other places want to charge at least $90 just for a diagnostic and since I'm a student this is way too much money for me. I was wondering if anyone knows what the problem might be or any pointers. Thanks much for any help you can give a poor student trying to save some money.
  • 19841984 Member Posts: 16
    I have the same problem with my '06 4runner sport. 30K plus for a toyota, i think it should run quieter. took it 2 dealers, they said it was normal or 4runners to do that. i will press on. also, squeak coming from right rear seat latch. one visit to dealer on this, apparently there is a tsb. squeak contines.
  • biglatkabiglatka Member Posts: 78
    Check the push button switch on the brake pedal arm. Maybe it came loose (in that case it only needs an adjustment) or maybe its not closing properly when you press down on the brake pedal (then you have to replace it). That's the first and easiest place to check. Hope this helps. Let us know how it goes. Good luck.
  • biglatkabiglatka Member Posts: 78
    Put some electrical tape on the rear seat latch where the two surfaces meet. You didn't say whether you had a V6 or V8. The V6 is inherently noisier than the V8.
  • biglatkabiglatka Member Posts: 78
    I've owned the V6 SR5 and now I have V8 SE. I remember that the V6 would down shift if you hit any kind of a decent incline and roar up to the set speed in the lower gear and then upshift. My V8 tolerates the hills better but when it does downshift it does the same exact thing. If I'm on hilly terrain where frequent downshifting occurs I just don't use the cruise control. I haven't heard of a fix for it, but that doesn't mean there isn't one :)

    Let us know if find out about an adjustment to the Cruise Control.
  • 19841984 Member Posts: 16
    it's a v6 - thanks for the advice, however i am not ready for the elec tape yet. i give dealers a chance to fix. note: i bought a '97 toyota new & they had to buy it back because of front stut noise. :P
  • foghorn48foghorn48 Member Posts: 65
    Bought an 06 limited v-6 4wd a few months ago. Overall great vehicle. Recently on a beach trip I had some sun screen on my leg, which rests against the interior door panel trim. On mine the handle (not the opening lever) is painted silver. Or at least it was. The sun screen ate thru the paint to the black plastic underneath. Anyone else have this or something similar happen to them? Any ideas of how to fix it or recover it? Any chance it should be a warranty issue?
  • andrew17andrew17 Member Posts: 26
    Thanks for your help wolfgang356. I did not find any SSC or TSB on the 1995 4Runner V6 model. I took it back to the Toyota dealership and they told me to drive it for a month because they can not re-create the symptom (of course: I leave it there in th eevening, they turn it on next morning while the engine is cold, the air is cool and the A/C works fine).
    It is getting really hot/ muggy here in Washington, D.C.; now I try to find a dealership (maybe in Southern California?) that has a trained A/C mechanic familiar with this issue and recommends the replacement of the orifice tube/ expansion valve or the dessicant. I will send the recommendations back to the dealership... -what a headache! -If I have any results, I will post it! =Andrew17
  • quattroffroadquattroffroad Member Posts: 3
    Any ideas on how to keep exhaust from coming in through the rear window? I'm thinking about going to Midas or something similar and have them mod it - bend it toward the side.

    Thanks
  • lovewalleyelovewalleye Member Posts: 3
    Have a 03 4runner, got rattle in the moonroof area. Took it in and they said they couldn't find a rattle, so they just greased it, didn't work. I have feard that toyota is the wordt at this kind of service. They don't want to fix anything.
  • lovewalleyelovewalleye Member Posts: 3
    I also have the same problem, the tail pipe is too short, and should have a pipe added to be vented to the side.
  • kakerskakers Member Posts: 3
    So I am now on my third trip to the dealer for this problem, it happened again last night. The weird thing is that it only seems to happen on really hot days. The last time I took it to them they replaced the ignition switch which obviously didn't work, and they supposedly checked all the grounds. I don't know what to do, I can't drive it because I have no brake lights, turn signals, air, windows, etc... when it does this. But, once it cools off outside everything turns on again. Plus my warranty is up in a month, do I need to think about selling this car or will Toyota honor this until its fixed.
  • 19841984 Member Posts: 16
    might help some but the vacuum created at rear will still pull in fumes.
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    It's called the station wagon effect and that's why the manual says don't drive with the rear window open.
  • mrkamzmrkamz Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your suggestion biglatka, I checked the switch as well but it seems to be working fine. I can tell it works becuase when I manually push the switch back and forth myself I can here the lever in the gear box being released etc which is also controlled by the switch. Do you have any other suggestions?

    Thanks
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    maybe a relay problem caused by temperature. it's not unheard of that temperature can cause a tiny circuit board with hare-line fracture or cold solder joint to fail a continuity check.

    check this out.
    http://www.samscars.com/mage12.htm
  • biglatkabiglatka Member Posts: 78
    I'm not sure about a lever in the gearbox being controlled by this switch. What is this function for? Do you have a manual or automatic transmission? I know this switch also affects the cruise control. When you press on the brake it takes it out of cruise control. Now did you check to see if moving the brake pedal actuates the switch? I assume it is a push-button switch and pressing the brake should either press the button on the switch in or allow it to go out (forgot which way it goes). If so with the key "on" can you get the brake lights to come on when you operate the switch manually?

    Other than trying this, I would do continuity checks along the brake circuit starting with the rear. Check to see that you're getting 12 volts on the line and work yourself back to the origin of the circuit (source of the 12 volts). A wiring diagram would be very helpful here. :) How about unscrewing all three bulbs and checking for voltage at one of the sockets when the pedal is pressed in (again with the ignition switch in the "on" position). It's worth a try. I once had both headlights go on me and I spent an hour checking out the circuit before I decided to check the headlights themselves. :) What's the odds on that?

    It's frustrating, good luck with it.
  • hed111_100hed111_100 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 4Runner with 53000 miles. Today I experienced a sudden loss in power caused by a failure of a spark plug. Also some oil leaked through the valve cover gasket during this incident. I was running on five cylinder for 5 miles to the shop. I have always done the recommended maintenance and the oil level in the car appears full. I left it with our repair shop, A Toyota dealer. I think there may have been a short in the coil. Any help Out there?
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    kakers, I'd unload the vehicle and get a new one the day before your warranty expires. But first, take it to a different dealer and see if they come up with a different prognosis, as some dealers are better than others. If they don't find anything, then write down your radio presets and replace the battery, even if you have to pay for it.

    Your dealer IMO should have done this as a courtesy, especially after 3 service visits. If the vehicle has lost all electrics, I'd suspect a bad battery, battery ground, or perhaps water got into (or behind) one of the fuse boxes causing everything to arc.

    Just the same, if it was mine I'd dump it and just get another one if it can't be fixed.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    What did the dealer say?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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