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but, please kindly give me some more details how to disassemble the shift stick & those ring/washer underneath.
I can only work inside the truck , not necessary to take off anything from underneath??
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
If you (and your engine) are happy with 87 octane, by all means use that. It won't harm your engine and you'll save a boat load of money.
BTW, fuel requirements for your '05 are listed in your Owners Manual.
Hope this helped. :shades:
OK, It'll start to turn over when the key goes from "off" to "start" but from "on" to "start" I get nothing but the starter turning. I feel the initial turning of the key is pressurizing the line(via the "new fuel pump") and from the "on" to "start" manuver there's no pressure.
any ideas? anyone? anyone? Bueller? Bueller? :confuse:
Thanks,
It does state in the owners manual not to drive with the rear window down. I think that is more about the carbon monoxide being drawn in rather than the sulfur and/or exhaust fumes.
What did they do to fix it?
tidester, host
tidester, host
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you,
When I drive the vehicle with the music off, I notice that there's a creeking and ticking sound coming from the dashboard... the sound that occurs when you push two cheap plastic parts together.
At first, I thought it was the cigarette tray which I've never used, but realized it was the dashboard when I push my fingers against it.
Anyone ever experienced this or know of any remedy? The sound is really annoying. :mad:
couple quick points: the vehicle had no oil in it. I bought it new at this dealership and have had my oil changed at this dealership 6 times in the 24k miles I have on it. I've been advised to contact toyota corporate and will do this in the morning. Is the dealers offer fair?
If not, then will it go in with the engine off?
If it won't even then, you may have a broken or bent linkage between the gear shift and the transmission itself. That is not a very expensive repair.
OTOH, if it will only go into reverse when the engine is off, or will never go in and is hard to put in first as well, you have to ask yourself how many miles your clutch has on it - could it be time for replacement?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I also assume, that in the southern states and in California, A/C mechanics in Toyota dealerships are more experienced then here in Virginia. By the way, it was a good SUV, it served us fine during the long years - it had never broken down. I will miss it...
Yes, I'd say the dealers offer is acceptable.
But...........
Just by removing the oil pan, NO technician can visually tell if any bearings have been damaged due to the lack of oil. Bearing caps (crankshaft) would have to be removed and bearings would have to be measured, all of them. The camshaft would have to be inspected also. These are just a few internal engine parts that would need to be looked at.
Make sure it's spelled out in a legal contract (extended warranty) that they (the dealer) neglected to fill to the proper level of engine oil. And that any and all internal parts of your engine are covered for the specified mileage.
I'd definitely call Toyota Customer Service and Corporate and tell them of this issue and make sure to tell them the work order number on the service receipt.
Sorry to hear of your experience, hope it all works out.
By the way, you are right: the new 4Runner V-8 is great! (Excelent accelaration and curb stability.) Very good SUV - but it is pricey.
It's been a long time. I posted this over heating problem on my 95 4runner about this time last year and my problem had been going on for months without resolution. I finally got it fixed while ago but haven’t gotten back with what was the problem. So here it is
The problem turned out to be the radiator. It clogged and wasn’t enough room for water circulation. Few months ago I took the car to a small shop where my friend works. A technician looked at the car and his first impression was also thought the fan clutch issue. I told him that wasn't it. He then test drove the car until the temp started to increase over the normal level. He used a laser temperature detective gun or some sort of device and shot at the radiator. The device shows in different temperatures on the radiator, where the top area is extremely high tempurature and lower section is suprisingly low. That was how the problem uncovered. I replaced with a new aftermarket radiator, cost under $200, and it has been running great.
BTW, if you have the radiator clogged problem, mind as well replace it w/ a new one. The flushing may not fix the problem and it is not cheap either.
I almost felt for the dealer, that they thought it was the head gasket problem, to work on the wrong problem.
I’ve learned a long the way on how the fan clutch works during this experience. When the car is over heating, the fan clutch is dead too. That means it is very weak, with no resistance but that doesn’t mean the fan clutch is bad/broken. When the car is running in the normal temperature, the fan clutch should turn strong and you could hear it with the humming sound when accelerate. Samething when you start the engine while it cold, the clutch should hum, running strong & fast. Otherwise, it is a truly bad clutch. That is my opinion.
Happy driving
Wangs04
Glad you got back to us with the solution. As I remember I was guessing, based on what you reported, that it was something with the head and/or gasket and recommended a cylinder leak down test. It's good to hear that the fix was something as simple as the radiator, much easier to replace. I guess if one didn't have an infrared tester you could feel around the radiator for temperature differences, being ever so careful of the fan of course .
Well, now after all you've been through with your overheating problem, you can be our resident expert in this area .
I've tried the Grease, and read everything on this site.
My dealer changed the driveshaft 3 times. No [non-permissible content removed]! Between the dealer, and the Toyota rep. they somehow managed to change the shaft 3 times. The second time was because I asked if they replaced the shaft with same part number. They coulding be sure, so the changed it. The rep then called back a month later and offer another shaft. Different number. It didn't work.
I eventually found something on the net that says Lexus has similar problem. I printed the info and gave it to my dealer. He was sceptical and still insisted they've tried everything.
2 weeks later, they offered to replace the shaft with a Lexus Part.
It now works perfectly. No [non-permissible content removed]! For the last 8 months, I hated the vehicle. Now I like it again. Do a search on any Lexus Forum. I believe Lexus actually has a TSb.
If you have the same problem as I describe, gor get the Grease! It didn't work.
Good luck