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Any advice would be appreciated!
Everything was fine for awhile and it has begun to randomly go off again. This is so frustrating and embarassing as it seems to do this at all the worst times (ie: parked next to a cop or at 2 in the morning in my driveway). Does anyone have a similar problem or suggestions to stop this? I'm about to get the whole thing uninstalled or disconnected. :mad:
The rep told me Toyota considers these issues "normal operation characteristics" of the 4Runner. The rep also indicated that new company 4Runner they were driving had the same issues. Read "Truck Trend" January/February 2007,pp 88 re:"Good Vibrations Gone".
If you happen to get a dealer that can fix the problem please post info as to what they did and how you convinced them.
I have a 98 4runner that has 118k miles. About 3 months ago, there is a whining sound or high whisping sound became to be bothersome. It only happens when the car is in motion no matter if it is in gear or not. It has becom more and more. I recently changed rear differntial and transimssion oil but nothing seemed help. Could anyone help? Thanks.
I will keep you posted on my progress!
I agree the dealer should be more proactive, but I'll do whatever I have to do to protect my investment. Thankfully the vehicle still has superior resale and trade-in value. I wish I had the V8.
Seat problem is more of a rattle sound and if so could also be the drop down rear center cup holder assembly. There is a TSB on that one.
It's due for 45,000 service soon anyway so I am bringing into the dealer...
The gas cap wouldn't trigger the VSC light though.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I replaced my OEM Dunlop with Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo tires.
I air them down to 20 psi and go out on the beaches on the NC Outer Banks.
They get really good traction
Netabeer
Also, I was up at Mammoth Mountain not too long ago and had chains on my car. I'm not sure if it was the chains, cold weather or all the slipping on the ice that caused this to happen, but after I tookn my chains off and was leaving Mammoth my engine check light came on as well as the TRAC OFF & VSC lights. What could be causing these problems?
Just worried this will happen again. Friend tells me it could be a fuel/fuel injection/fuel pump problem, and to try using a fuel injection cleaner in the gas tank.
Mechanic said he can not tell, "bring it back when it breaks"
Any ideas, any one?
I eventually had a Lexus drive shaft put in, and it was fixed.
I really don't think it has anything to do with slip yokes, and all that grease crap. The driveshaft was out of tolerance. Apparently, Lexus has a actual service bulletin for the same problem.
Good Luck- I mean it!
I don't believe the driveshaft is an expensive item. The actual work involved removing bolts and replacing the shaft. I would say, it takes less than 15-20 minutes to make the swap (including putting the car on the hoist).
Just to make sure you have the same problem: I have a 2003 or 2004 4 Runner-V8 Limited.
The clunk feels like someone has rear-end you when your in traffic. Or it feels like your pulling a trailer, and the ball hitch has some slack. The feeling is hard to reproduce, and occurs randomly. But mostly when you are slowing down or accelerating from a complete stop.
I just found this in my Files: Here is the Lexus Service Bulletin:
For Lexus Model GX470 Year: 2003
Service Bulletin #: 00104, Date of Bulletin: Apr.13, 2004
NHTSA Item Number: 10007096
Component: Powertrain Drive Line Drive shaft
Summary: Rear Drive shaft Clunk/thump Noise
Be very careful. I had 3 other Toyota 4 Runner shafts installed. The first time, my dealer didn't take down the Code, and likely replaced it with the same shaft. The second time, they had a different code, but it didn't completely eliminate the thump. I can't remember the 3rd time. Oh yeah, the third time, they took the shaft off and reversed it. They said it was recommended by head office. That threw me completely off, I didn't ralize the part could be reversed so easily, especially since the part was tapered differently at each end.
Try doing a little research on www.clublexus.com (search: Thump or clunk- You'll have alot of interesting reading)
Be very critical about what you read. Alot of other people have grease problems. They either have different problems or they are Secret Toyota Spys trying to misinform people about a little grease will fix a bigger problem.
Also, If you complained about this prior to your Warranty running out, perhaps it is still covered since it was not yet fix. My Dealer's standard phrase, was "I'd fix it if I knew what the problem was. Then he'd say I don't have a problem" Also, the dealer took me more seriously when I opened a file through Toyota Canada- Customer Service.
Let me know how you make out.
I've contacted Toyota and they said the same.
Has anyone else experienced the same problem?
I also have the driveline clunk, piston slap, driveline vibration @ 70MPH; and no heat from the driver's side vent under the dash problems in which Toyota has told me is normal for the vehicle.
I keep the thermostat set on 72 and it was on 69 when they parked the car in the service area for pick-up. Yet they say they did not operate the A/C. Comments??
"Do not perform any of the following changes without consulting your Toyota dealer. Such changes can interfere with the proper operation of the SRS front airbag system in some cases.
*Installation of electronic devices such as a mobile two-way radio, cassette tape player or compact disc player..."
Questions;
1. Does a pocket walki-talkie would fall into this category? Would it interfere with the ignition/ alarm system?
2. Does one need a license to operate a walkie-talkie that qualifies to communicate beyond 3 miles? (How to get it?)
3. Is there somebody who tried to operate a walkie-talkie in a 2004-2006 4Runner/ or Rav-4?
Your help will be highly appreciated! =Andrew
If so, you'll be fine.
What the manual is referring to is a "hard wired" two-way radio device. Meaning that you actually wire the radio into your truck, positive...negative...etc.
Question 1; No, the pocket walkie-talkie does not fall into that category nor will it interfere with ignition/SRS/alarm systems.
Question 2; You will not need a license.
Question 3; I've used my portable walkie-talkie in my old '04 Highlander and currently in my '06 4Runner with no problems at all.
Hope this helped.
I intend to buy a shir-pocket size, battery operated walkie-talkie for a cross-country trip, possibly the same you have now in your 4Runner. If it works for you - will work fine for me. Were you able to run it on stand-by a whole day? Is this a Motorola or other brand?
Thanks for the great info! =Andrew
No, I can't last a day on stand-by, will go through batteries.....
The brand I have is V-Tech with a range of about 4 miles. But I want to replace it with another brand (more powerful) that I can use either battery mode or plug into the cig. lighter socket.
I'm going to look at the Motorola radios.
Start with removing the air cleaner intake hose and inspect the throttle plate for carbon.
Take a can of carb. cleaner and spray down the throttle plate. Of course engine "off" and throttle plate closed. Let the cleaner sit a bit then wipe and carbon off with a clean rag.
Next soak a rag with carb. cleaner and hold the throttle plate open and wipe the inside of the throttle housing down.
Try this easy fix (hopefully) first....
Good luck!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I must say, I had a wonderful service rep. He knew I was frustrated. And all the work was covered under warranty.
However, if I feel even one clunk, I am going to tell them exactly what you sent me regarding the Lexus Service Bulletin. I really do appreciate all the great information you sent me.
Good Luck, I hope you get it fixed.
Thanks for your advice - we bought a Midland brand/18 mile radius/ voice activated unit; at DICKS sporting goods store in Dulles, Virginia, for $69 (last year model, on sale this week, regular price was $129). -You are right, we don't need a speicial permit to use it; a gentlemen in the store was helping us because he had one, too. He told us that in a city we should not expect more than 2 blocks of communication range.
Thanks again for your help - I hope other people can take advantage of your experiment! =Andrew
Andrew, nice deal on the radio. Congrats!
Thanks, Bob! We were relying on your advice/got a good deal - it's all your fault! (As we say it in Europe: now I owe you a cup of coffee.)
2. Dear Dealkiller! (Roof seal popped out)
Regarding the roof seal of the 4Runner '05: you must take it to the dealership because it is not possible to push it back by bare hand because of the seal had not been originally inserted the correct way and it is deformed. As it warms up/ cools down, it will work its way out - take care of this annoying issue during the warranty.
Could you please tell us how did they fix the seal? Thanks: Andrew
Thanks for your inputs. Talked to the dealer service rep, things went very smooth. He said he will order that part for me right away, and will call me to make appointment when the part comes in. He calls the seal "roof mold". Just like you said (also according to his explanation), that thing will clip into places if you clean it really well before installation. He also said the weather is a big factor on deforming it. To fix it right, you have to wait for warm weather. At installation time, it will stick better if the temperature is high. I'll let you know how things go after the dealer visit.
The weather is not a factor: they should keep your car inside during the night to let the metal/lining warm up to room temperature, then clean it, and paste it in. That is how cars are handled in the factory.
Good luck! =Andrew
Please check your fuel pump. When did you change your fuel filter? Could there be some water droplet frozen on the surface of the filter? Do you use any gasoline additives to get rid of the condensate water in the tank? (I use the Techron by Chevron, but there are cheaper alternatives on the market. As I understood: 1, your cold engine tends to stall at low rpms, 2, works after it had warmed up; and 3, there are no warning lights on the dash board.) I assume that it is a V-6 engine. Am I correct? =Andrew
Disconnect the (-) negative battery cable and leave off for 10 or so minutes. You'll loose all your radio presets and have to adjust the clock but this may work.
Then drive your truck for a while so the ECM can relearn.
Question #1: What is the likelihood that the failure is the gasket between the pump and the reservoir? I'd hate to drop a hundred dollars when the problem could be solved for pennies. Is there any easy way to check this?
Question #2: In addition to the high pressure line and the return line, there are two additional lines that come from the same port on the bottom-passenger side toward the front of the pump (beneath the high pressure line). What are these for? I'm guessing perhaps a brake assist of some sort?
As always your sage advice is greatly appreciated.
sincerely,
gh
Have you changed your coolant recently? If the thermo sensor in the coolant system is broken, you may also get the surging problem.
I had SERIOUS idling problem in another vehicle after 120K mile service. Sometimes the idle was so LOW that the engine would stall. Sometimes the idle was so HIGH 1600rpm that the car could climb a hill in idle. My solution is: have a NEW idling motor installed and coolant thermo sensor replaced once. This pretty much fixed the problem. But for an old car, I still had to unplug battery to reset ECU several times, clean throttle body every half year to help the engine breath better. Hope this will help.
UCSC
Thanks in advance.
gh