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tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Thanks
I HAD this problem and went through all the same BS as all of you including the Lexus TSB (which Toyota would not apply). I had multiple visits with the Toyota Technical Field Rep as well.
Toyota's response was always the same, a slight rotation in the rear axle when coming to a firm stop and then a second slight reverse rotation causing the "clunk".
Mine is fixed. For other reasons, I ended up lifting the 4runner a bit via a suspension lift (Donahoe Racing). The new rear springs are a progressive spring with a rate approximately 15-20% greater than stock. The front was lifted to level by a new set of coilovers.
No more clunk whatsoever. My best conclusion was the increase in spring rate in the rear and the leveling of the vehicle (it doesn't slope down so much in front anymore) have eliminated the rotation of the rear axle. The increased spring rate in the front also eliminated a really annoying flutter at certain times on the highway. No new driveshafts, lubing slip yokes, etc.
New rear springs can be fabricated at increased spring rates for less than $100.00 per spring. Front leveling spacer kits can be had from Daystar for a song. Of course there is installation involved. Check with your local 4WD shop.
I can't guarantee this for you, but my clunk is COMPLETELY gone and I have a better handling vehicle.
Cheers..
2006 T4R SR5 4wd
DAYSTAR makes a couple of different leveling kits for the 4runner. Here is a link to one website that shows the different options for the 4runner. Again, I went with the Donahoe Racing kit but the Daystar leveling kit might work well for a lot less money if you are O.K. with the front spring rate. (The 4runner looks great leveled out).
http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/03up4runner.htm
I don't know for sure if the leveling of the vehicle or the different spring rate in rear, or both, solved the problem, but it is gone which tells me it has nothing to do with the driveshaft, slip yoke, etc.
Thx for your help.
Tom
-Dave
Last but not least, since you said oil or something, what color is the something? If it's red then it's tranny fluid.
thansk -mnkraus@optonline.net
See You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin. You can find a link to TSB summaries there btw.
If this an out-of-warranty issue, then maybe the Understanding After Warranty Assistance article will have some tips that'll help your case.
Im gessing the alternator is draining the battery cause i cleaned the terminals, checked the wires, all fine... if it is the alternator, are there any tutorials online that i can follow?
thanks
skyguy309@hotmail.com
If it is the alternator your only practical alternative is to replace it.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Any suggestions?
Thanks again,
Rob
You'll need to make a jumper wire and connect it between E1 and TE1 or (T) in the check engine connector.
This is located next to the fuse box in the engine compartment.
After it's "jumped", you'll be able to check your timing.
Hope this helped!
If it goes out, you've found the problem...the parking brake switch.
If not, remove the belt and spin the different components; alt., idler pulley's, etc. and see which one is squeaking.
Secondly, everytime I go to refuel, the gas pump stops pumping short of 2-3 gallons. If I wanted to maximize my fuel tank capacity (for long trips), I would have to constantly squeeze the lever on the gas pump for at least 5 minutes (very annoying). I've used different gas stations and went as far as to checking the vent system of the gas hose and still nothing.
Finally, I'm getting real poor gas mileage. I've checked spark plugs, had the oil and air filter changed and tire pressure checked. I'm currently in the process of putting fuel cleaner in the tank.
By the way, a couple of months ago, on the way back for a trip. I was driving through the desert and stopped off at a gas station to get some drinks. After a few minutes have passed by, a couple of guys walked in and said that they saw a 4Runner spill alot of fluid. I didn't think anything of it, but later on while I was driving, I noticed that I was missing about a quarter tank of gas. I thought I would mention this fact because the poor fuel issue started right after this happened.
Any ideas or suggestions as to what I can do to solve both problems?
Michelin just came out with a new all-terrain in our factory 17" size you might want to look at. Last but not least, my next of tires will be Michelin LTX MS. Everyone I know who has them love them as they're quiet, wear well, and give overall the best traction available. I'll have to change the tire size to P255/70/17 as the LTX MS isn't manufactured in our factory 17" size.
I wouldn't be "shocked" over the shock!
Apparently, your computer and the internet lasted long enough for you to post that message and you're obviously a very fast typist considering your keyboard survived long enough for you to type that sentence! :P
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Believe it or not but I am still riding on the OEM Dunlops and per the last service, they still have 6/32" of tread, so I may just give up on ever getting a warranty replacement set and buy some new tires as handling is getting pretty sloppy. Getting 4 new Dunlops is by far the least expensive solution as the spare has never been on the ground. Has anybody had experience with Continentals? I never get offroad and rarely tow anything. Gas mileage is good (computer says 21.8 overall - and I know that is an inflated number, but ballpark). Road noise is minimal with the Dunlops. I'd hate to spend a ton of money and get significantly worse mileage and/or have a lot of road noise. Also, I cannot believe that the maintenance items NEVER mention replacing a fuel filter! Doesn't it have one? Surely, this is something that should get replaced sooner or later. Comments?
You can check tirerack.com for reviews on the tires. Generally, the Continentals on passenger cars get extremely poor reviews. A good indication of mpg of tires is how much the tire weighs, while this isn't everything, a lighter tire "in most cases" has lighter rolling resistance.
I spent the nearly two hundred dollars per tire to get the Michelin Cross Terrains, easily one of the best highway tires on the market for SUVs. Very quiet and very smooth.
Good luck on whatever you decide!
Either LTX and change size or the Cross Terrains. I drive 90% highway in my Sport Edition V8.
I haven't driven the truck in the snow with the Michelin Cross Terrains -- I've now got dedicated snow tires. I did drive the truck in the snow with the Dunlops and was suitably unimpressed. Acceleration in the snow was good with the Dunlops, but turning and braking were downright scary. The snow tires are much better, as expected.
Both the Dunlops and the Cross Terrains do just fine on the beach. Neither are aggressive tires for mudding. Revos are more aggressive, but you'll pay for that in gas mileage and noise.
They are also much smoother at higher speeds.
Good luck!
I just don't see a big difference in the handling or ride. With either tire, the 4Runner rides pretty good, for a truck. It brakes pretty good, for a truck. And it handles pretty good, for a truck. But I'll never mistake it for anything other than a body-on-frame truck with heavy, solid-rear axle.
Perhaps if I drove the two tires back-to-back on a closed course I would notice a greater difference. As it is, I think the difference is somewhat subtle (except for the reduced noise).
The Michelin is a good tire, but it sure is expensive...
I think this goes to a little harder rubber and a higher tread wear rating.
On the '05s and up you have giant rotors that I believe are like 13". These are bigger than some 1/4 ton trucks out there.
So - I am assuming the dealer hooked up the truck and pulled a computer code? If so - what code was it? Usually the paperwork will say what codes were stored in the computer.