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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    While I am aware that Sears has some good sale prices on tires and services, this is a chance you take when you take your car to such a place.

    The breaking of the sensor by the "technician" is nothing more than poor workmanship and carelessness.

    Here is a general rule to follow - "Never take your car to the same place where you can buy clothes".
  • rsmith8rsmith8 Member Posts: 47
    The story gets worse. I took it to the dealer this morning and after 2 1/2 hours and $142, the TPMS light is now off. The dealer said he had to 'break down all 5 wheels, get the numbers from the sensors and reseed them into the computer. HOWEVER, now both the VSC OFF and TRAC OFF lights come on as soon as I put it in drive and let off the brake. The dealer wants me to come back tomorrow AM but insinuates that this was a problem before I brought it in this morning. Believe me, neither of those lights have EVER come on before. I am sure this new problem was created as part of the Toyota technician's reprogramming of the computer. Now, we'll see if Sears reimburses me for these costs and if Toyota will fix at no cost the problem that I think they created.
    More later, I am sure.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Yes,
    It is very likely it was caused by the computer reprogramming. Most dealers when they reprogram the ECM for ANY REASON usually test drive the car for just these circumstances.

    After all, how many of us install new software, clean our hard drive only to affect something else on our own home computers?

    Same thing.
  • rsmith8rsmith8 Member Posts: 47
    UPDATE: You are exactly correct. The ASC and TRAC OFF lights were caused by reprogramming error but was corrected the next day at no charge. Also, Sears did reimburse the entire $142+ charge to have the dealer 'reseed' the new TPMS serial number into the computer - but did question a suspicous $13+ 'environmental' charge (which I agreed was questionable) but he paid it anyway.
    If I had it to do over, I would have tried to get a price for the tires with mount/balance from the dealer or have bought the tires only from Sears and then had the dealer handle the mount/balance. Even the dealer's tire people can accidently break a sensor (and have, per the dealer's assistance service manager) but they have the know-how to replace the part and handle the necessary reprogramming - which not any other tire dealer is likely to be able to do.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    I had my tires that I purchased elsewhere mounted at a "Big O"
    Tire Store (West Coast area tire places) and they were familiar with the TPMS.

    They mounted and balanced 4 tires and didn't break anything!

    Glad everything worked out for you!

    P.S. - that environmental charge...when no solvents, rags, oil, was used?

    BOGUS!
  • sicktoysicktoy Member Posts: 2
    Okay, here's my problem: My 2000 4Runner engine threw a rod last week. I have over a hundred thousand miles on my car, but it has not been abused. The oil is changed on a regular basis. I may be grasping at straws, but after hearing about Toyota's problems with oil gel sludge in a lot of their other engines, I called Toyota 1-800-331-4331, and was told there are no complaints about 4Runner engine problems. I also called NHTSA 1-888-327-4236, and filed a complaint at safecar.gov. My dealer wants $9000 to replace the shortblock. I have seen several posts about similar cases involving 4Runners and oil gel sludge. Please if you have a similar incident, call these numbers and file a complaint. Get a case number from Toyota, so if there is a recall you may be reimbursed. My first car was a 1986 4Runner and it had 300,000 miles on it when I got rid of it. I wish I kept it, now. That was back when you could drive two and three hundred thousand miles with no problems. This is why I bought another one. :mad:
  • newdavidqnewdavidq Member Posts: 146
    I think the Camry had the sludge problem. In any event 9k for a short block seems way high. You probably could buy an entire 2000 4runner for 9k. Depending on the condition of the rest of your truck a used motor might be the way to go. Best of luck with it.
    DQ
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    There has not been any sludge problems reported with the 4Runner. While I understand your frustration, sometimes these things happen. I do agree with this poster that states another 4Runner might be in order instead of a new motor. Also, those freebie "Green sheet" "Penny Saver" etc. newspapers are usually full of ads for used low miles motors from Japan. You may want to look in that direction.
  • rsmith8rsmith8 Member Posts: 47
    I spoke to the dealer's customer relations manager to express several concerns including the environment charge. She tried to pass it off as a 'shop charge' but said that in the future if I don't agree with an environmental charge to say something and they would take it off the bill.
  • amiramir Member Posts: 115
    i have a 05 4runner sr5.i noticed that my power window switches are not illuminated.i took to a local mechenic and he says that it should have it and it could be a blown out bulb or so.can someone tell me if 05 4runner sr5 came with illuminated switch or without. thanks
  • tsu670tsu670 Member Posts: 293
    I've researched this board and found good information on how to do oil changes on 4Runner V8s, but haven't had much luck finding the same for V6 engines.

    The filter is on the top, so that looks fairly easy. I'm curious about the oil drain plug. Do you need to remove any of the skid plates to get to it?

    By the way, I don't own a 4Runner, at least not yet. But I'm real serious about buying a new one.
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    I have a 2003 model. Only the drivers door switch is illuminated. The other three doors are not. My 1997 Blazer had all the switches at all the doors illuminated. Eventually, you'll get used to it, but your guests won't like it.
  • mitchinpamitchinpa Member Posts: 40
    Hi folks

    My dummy light came on in my 2000 4Runner. Coolant sensor malfunction. Can anyone point me to it's exact location? I thought it would be near the gooseneck, but I am not seeing it. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!!
  • hoda9801hoda9801 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem with my 2003 4Runner SR5 (64K) and I just got it back from the dealer and they say they lubed it, AGAIN (3rd time). I feel it when coming to a complete stop or right when I let off the brakes, which makes it feel like the brakes are doing it. But, the first time they greased the drive shaft the problem was gone for about a month. Like I said I just got it back so I'm sure it'll start clunking again soon.

    Did you ever get the Lexus part installed and did that fix it?
  • sgalbraisgalbrai Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    Just bought a 1998 4runner 4cylinder with 120k miles. Everything seems to be working except for a slight rattle in the rear end (any ideas? ).. Also I got the extended warranty, but was wondering if it is really necessary for a 4runner at this mileage?

    All std. maintenance was done on the truck through the dealer (got records).. Anyway, it I got a 2 year 24k warranty on everything (not just powertrain), a level II through western general, for about $2k...

    Any experience with this company? Is the warranty really needed? Reading this board suggests otherwise as a lot of people seem to have high mileage late 90s 4runners that are still running with minimal problems...

    Cheers,
    Simon
  • autosenselessautosenseless Member Posts: 1
    I do have this problem as well. I have a 94 4runner SR5 V6 4WD. I've thought about having a compression test, cause I'm pretty sure I have an oil leak of some kind, but other people have told me it could be the lifters. Have you had any luck with discovering what is causing the clicking noise?
  • drex1drex1 Member Posts: 41
    The AC/Heater control buttons on my 1999 4Runner Limited has become intermittent. The display has also has a few issues. Unfortunately, the dealer wants $850 for this front panel. Any ideas of how to fix or other Toyota models that have this same control panel and display?
  • rjlichtmanrjlichtman Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone know the thread size for the 07 4Runner Limited with factory 18" wheels? I have done several searches and have failed to find an answer. I want to buy a set of locking lug nuts and the ones offered by Toyota are for 16" & 17" wheels, thread size 12x1.5. I cannot seem to find out if the 18" factory wheels are the same thread size? There is no mention of the lug nut size in the owner's manual (at least I couldn't find it).

    While I am at it, how does one determine the thread size?

    Thanks for any help

    --bob
  • newdavidqnewdavidq Member Posts: 146
    I'm going to make an educated guess and say that since the 18" wheels will fit on the studs presently on the truck, that the locks for the 16 and 17" wheels will work fine. I've got an 07 4R too and am very happy with it.
    Regards, DQ
  • ndianajndianaj Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 4runner SR% and the rear wiper, rear defrost and rear window are all inop. All happened at about the same time. Everything was working fine, then the wiper started working real slow. When I push the button on dash for rear defrost it does not light up or stay 'in' and it makes a buzzing noise. Also the license plate light will stay on all the time along with the Emergency Brake Light. Even with vehicle turned off. The only way to get it to go out is to turn ignition on and then turn back off. This happens here and there. I have checked all the fuses I know to check and even checked wiring from roof to rear hatch and found no obvious problems. It seems like they must be related. Is there some Censor somewhere that I can change out that would correct this problem? Anybody have a clue? Trying to avoud a buttload of money to the dealership.
  • uscxvuscxv Member Posts: 8
    I own a 2003 with the V6 engine. The oil is very easy to change. There is a guard over the drain plug that is very easily removed with the flat end of the screw driver. Once removed the drain plug is very accessible.

    Honestly a piece of cake to do.
  • tsu670tsu670 Member Posts: 293
    Dear USCXV,

    Thanks for your reply. I'm new to the Toyota brand. For some reason I had it in my head that the dealer had to change the oil and do the various inspections outlined in the maintenance schedule in order to keep the warranty valid. But the dealer assured me such is not the case.

    I've enjoyed changing the oil in my own vehicles for years, not necessarily to save a few bucks, but because I've heard too many horror stories from friends who took their cars to quick lube places.

    I'll still take it in to the dealer from time to time, especially for things like checking the differential, but it's nice to know I can do the oil changes myself when I feel like it.

    So as I was writing this, I wondered if the dealer sells a "how to" maintenance manual specific to 4Runners, and gave the Parts Department a call. The "manual" they sell is actually a group of about 10 maintenance manuals put out by Helms in California (not by Toyota) at a cost of about $300-$400. He suggested I try to find a more general purpose Haynes manual, or something similar, at a retail auto parts store (like NAPA).
  • md4runnermanmd4runnerman Member Posts: 72
    Ughh, I just take mine to the dealer. I cannot be bothered doing such dirty tasks.
  • bdefenbaughbdefenbaugh Member Posts: 1
    Just read your thread and am having the similar and additional problems on my 07
    V8 Limited. Problem with clunking stopping and starting, along with hard shift after stopping and when starting. If you would be able to forward any additional info you have reguarding your researched info on the driveline replacement it would be very helpful when I return to the dealership. They told me that the tech drove it and it felt fine, even with the computer hooked up - thanks for listening.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    This has been discussed here and other places on the net. This is usually an isolated instance and does not happen all the time. Toyota insists that when it happens it doesn't hurt anything. There is an Lexus model drive train replacement solution, but it has not (and probably won't) be issued on the 4Runners.

    Good luck!
  • wftmomx2wftmomx2 Member Posts: 1
    I am looking at buying a used 1997 4-runner with 140,000 miles. Can someone tell me what questions I should ask before I take it to my mechanic (who is very busy...don't want to take it unless I'm serious.) This has been on the market for awhile so I'm thinking something has to be wrong.

    Thanks
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    First of all, find another mechanic who has the time. Don't know where you are located, but there are some "National Chain" type places that will check the basic things (brakes, hoses, etc.) for a flat fee.

    In addition to that, I would make sure it has a complete compression check and make sure you or some one who is qualified put it up on a rack and have a real close look at the frame, etc.

    In short, this is basic stuff you should do to any high-miles used car before you buy it.

    Good luck!
  • ghwiiiazghwiiiaz Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 sr5 4wd with 30,000 miles that has done the same thing. It seems to be random, and doesnt happen often. It sounds like the transmission doesnt shift properly when it happens. I thought it was weird too. Let me know if you find anything else out.
    ty .
  • loi177loi177 Member Posts: 10
    When a Toyota Dealer sells a Certified vehicle.does it still need to be checked by independent mechanic?. there is 2005 4Runner with 80,000 mile on it and it is certified warranty for 2 years. Does the certification includes agianst drop in mileage.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Yes!

    "Our advice is to always have any pre-owned vehicle you intend to buy inspected by both a mechanic and a body shop. The cost of these inspections is cheap insurance and will give you piece of mind that what you are buying is actually worth your hard earned money, and is a safe purchase."

    Certified Pre-Owned: Don't Let The Label Fool You

    Obviously not all horror stories will be as bad as this one, but buyer beware.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    This has been on the market for awhile so I'm thinking something has to be wrong.

    Well, yeah, it has 140,000 miles on it! How much they want for this jewel? Who is selling it? Private, Reputable dealer, metal lot?
  • srinikssriniks Member Posts: 1
    I own a 98 4Runner. It has around 90K miles on it. I recently have trouble starting it in the mornings. It doesn't start during the first 3 or 4 tries. It starts during the fifth or sixth attempt. And after that it has no trouble starting during the day. I am looking for some pointers on what could be the problem before I bring it into a mechanic for repair.
  • treitz1treitz1 Member Posts: 5
    I have a '95 4Runner and it had occassional problems turning over. The teeth on the starter are worn and sometimes they catch and sometims they don't. Look at replacing the starter. Not too expensive. If this does not work, then move onto bigger problems. I am sure your mechanic will tell you the same.
  • optionstr8droptionstr8dr Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a 97 Limited with that i bought new and its still my daily driver today (~160k miles now). In 2000, i prepped it so i could go wheeling with my buds in the So Cal. Jeep club; 3 inch lift front and back, onboard air, etc... Its cool when i run in the desert with my buds, especially the ones with the open tops. They razz my but they eat dust while i'm crusing with my Big Gulp, A/C and CD.

    I can honestly say that this is the least problematic vehicle i own. In fact, i had to take my new GS430 back to the dealer a few times to fix NHV problems.

    Give me a shout and i can go over all the details regarding maintenance and issues with you.

    -vince
  • noel3noel3 Member Posts: 4
    bent the vertical frame around tailgate window while towing old boat - (enjoy the laugh)
    need to by junk tailgate - mine is a 1998 - what other year tailgates would fit.
    (old work truck - anything works)
    and/or - how would i go about straightening out the bent frame around the window.

    thnaks
  • dee_es_mckeedee_es_mckee Member Posts: 1
    i have a manual 4runner with 124k miles, it recently started popping out of 1st gear frequently and 3rd gear now and then. is it time for a new clutch altogether or is there and alternative (less expensive) answer to it?
  • ddunfordddunford Member Posts: 1
    Can you tell me where the ODB2 connecter is hiding on my wifes 2003 V6 4Runner?

    I looked around the dash and under the hood but must have missed it.
  • ecsims04ecsims04 Member Posts: 2
    Hi Everyone,

    I have something of an intersting question to ponder regarding radiator flushing.. Tonight (yes, I know, big Friday night) I flushed the cooling system in my 2003 4Runner V6. I've done this before of course in the past, but tonight something occured to me. So you drain the radiator, thoroughly flush the system with distilled water, run the engine so the thermostat opens and circulates the water through the block, etc etc. Fill, circulate, drain.. standard stuff, right? Okay, so now to add the coolant. What do you add? 50/50 mixture of course, everyone knows that. But hold on, you're only going to be filling the radiator. Yes, you're going to run the engine to get the air bubbles out and do a little more topping off, but volume wise just the radiator. What about in the block? That's 100% water now from the flushing process. I did a little experimenting and researching online and found that my radiator capacity is about 1 gallon and the total cooling system is almost 2.5 gallons. So I'm adding a 50/50 mixture to less than half of the total system volume. After all the fluid mixes, I now have at best a 20/80 coolant/water ratio. What am I missing here? Heck, even the back of the coolant container gave me the usual drill about flushing, running water through, running the engine, blah blah, and then filling (the radiator) with 50/50. I can't seriously be the first person to think of this. I even called my car buddies and they were equally "huh, didn't think of that" Everyone just thinks 50/50, 50/50, 50/50.

    So I ended up filling my radiator with full concentrate coolant. If I really wanted 50/50 whole system mix, that was the thing to do. Right? I know I over think things (a lot), but I know cars faily well, and I can do the math here..

    Does anyone have any thoughts on this? I'm really curious to know. So much so, that its 1am on Friday night and I'm still thinking about it!

    Thanks in advance. --Eric
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Given that the radiator capacity is 1 gallon and the block contains 1.5 gallons (of distilled water) then one solution is as follows. Fill the radiator with pure antifreeze. After thorough mixing, the antifreeze concentration will be 40% (1 / 2.5). Next, drain your radiator and add 1 gallon of 65% antifreeze. That will bring the concentration up to 50%. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • dwalmquistdwalmquist Member Posts: 2
    My transfer case check plug hole is missing threads.

    Grease Monkey took me down underneath my 04' 4-Runner to show me that whoever changed my oil last put the wrong plug back in the transfer case plug hole and stripped the threads. My transfer case has also been leaking because of this. I called my dealer and they said $3,500 to fix, because there is no way to repair the hole. One plug. Unbelievable. I called a japanese repair shop and they said that there has got to be a creative way to fix it. Grease Monkey said I'm ok as long as I stay out of 4-wheel drive. I'm taking it to this japanese repair shop on Monday but wanted to see if anyone had any similar experiences, thoughts, or suggestions...Thank you...
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I haven't had any similar experience but I don't see why a decent machine shop wouldn't be able to rework (i.e., enlarge) the hole to create new thread and work with a slightly larger plug.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • aseenjaseenj Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2005 4Runner SR5 Sport Edition with the standard 17" 6 spoke Sport rims. The outside has a shiny aluminum finish in perfect condition, but the sides of the spokes appear to be a painted aluminum and the paint is bubbling up and chipping off in several areas on all 4 rims. I took it up with the Toyota dealer during my last oil change and he blamed it on possibly the car cleaner I use. To be honest I don't clean my truck that much and when I do I use the Meguiars Gold.

    I had a flat this week and swapped the tire out with the spare which is also the matching rim. The spare that has never been exposed to car cleaner is the worst rim of all, so it can't be the car cleaner.

    Is there anyone else out there with this problem and/or any recommendations for getting the dealer to replace my rims? The truck currently has 45,000 miles.

    Thanks! Alex
  • ecsims04ecsims04 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, Thank you for the reply. I completely agree with your solution, but how does everyone else (eg - you) normally do this, or is the above what you do every time? I'm thinking about redoing it, since I dont know what conc is in there. Thanks a lot, Eric
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Actually, I don't do it myself. The one or two times I've had my radiator flushed I had other work being done on my car and the dealer did the flush for me. We'll have to wait for others to chime in. Anyone?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • 4wlthru4wlthru Member Posts: 1
    My 95 4RNR drives great and has been well maintained for all of its 102,000 mi. I do have one concern about when I drive on the freeway and have the cruise control set at no more than 70 mph, no AC, OD on, ETC off and I approach even the slightest incline, the tranny kicks down and stays down long after I have crested the top of incline and begin my desent. Most of the time I don't have the patience to see exactly when it will shift back up and I cancel the cruise control. The moment I cancel CC, it shifts up instantly. Q: Is this a trans problem, converter problem, valve body problem, solinoid problem, computer problem, sensor problem or is this even a problem at all?? Trans temp is always within range, the same with both diffs and transfer case. Any advice or input would be great.
  • mud7mud7 Member Posts: 6
    I've got a 2003 V8 with 80,000 miles on it. Does anyone out there know what the recommended interval is for changing the timing belt on this beast ?
    I've gotten some vague answers from a couple of dealerships.
    ( I know this 'aint inexpensive to do !)
    Also, How many '03 and '04 owners reading this have actually had their timing belts replaced already ?
  • mud7mud7 Member Posts: 6
    Yes, folks, I was writing about the timing belt in my '03 4Runner w/ 4.7L V8..
    I didn't specify that in the previous message !
  • ponytrekkerponytrekker Member Posts: 310
    I am pretty sure the 4.7L V8 (at least my '05) has an internal timing chain.
  • mud7mud7 Member Posts: 6
    OK I'm back with the straight skinny..
    The V8 engine used in the 4Runner is known as the 2UZ-FE..
    It uses a timing belt, and Toyota's recommended interval for changing
    this belt is 90,000 miles, which means I've got about 10,000 miles left to go
    before I have to shell out those bucks..
    ponytrekker, you've got a ways to go before you hit the 90k mi. mark, I would assume. But don't assume you're engine has a chain.
    If the belt goes (and there's no warning when it's about to) you will be doing some fairly costly damage to your top end.
    The (newer) V6 uses a chain, though !
    Heck, if I had known that when I bought my truck, it might have swayed my decision between the two engines. But the V-8 is sweet.
  • bandit10bandit10 Member Posts: 28
    Would it be possiable to retap and retread the hole and get an oversize bolt to mate with the tread? Ben
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