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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • spyder599spyder599 Member Posts: 2
    Would the U joint make a clicking noise? My experience with U joint is it clunks and then car won't go but I could be wrong. It runs - when she turns it off and back on and puts it in gear it starts - I guess I don't know since I'm 1000 miles away whether it is engine or transmission what would be a good test for that?
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    It's really diffulcult to try to diagnose a problem when you so far way. I know how you are feeling. Her best bet (and probably yours) is to ask family or friends for a referral to a honest mechanic and have him take a look at it. You can then make a decision based on sound advice on what you want to do.

    Good luck!
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    All I can tell you is to avoid Medford Toyota. They like to charge for things they didn't do.
  • md4runnermanmd4runnerman Member Posts: 72
    Just thought it was worth mentioning, I began to notice this summer early in June that my AC did not feel quite as cold as it used to be. I took my 2004 Limited V8 into Toyota for an oil change. I did not say anything about the AC. Nevertheless, they did some inspecting of the vehicle, and determined that the cabin air filter was really dirty and needed replacing. They even took it out to show me while I was waiting. So I told them to replace it. I noticed right away that the AC seemed colder to me again. Woohoo. I was thinking about asking them to check the freon or something, I am not even sure if I have Freon in this vehicle, but I was about to ask them anyhow. I guess I can hold off on that since it seems to be working fine again with the cabin air filter replacement.
  • drex1drex1 Member Posts: 41
    About five days ago, the Check Engine Light came on while my wife was driving my '99 4 Runner V6. The OBD II scan tool gave me the code "P0213 - Cold Start Injector 1". The OBD II Scan Tool recorded five instances. Any idea of what to start checking? (I've since reset the Check Engine Light with the scan tool and it's not occurred since).
  • fuzzman1112fuzzman1112 Member Posts: 1
    How often should the timing belt be replaced on a 2000 toyota 4runner?
  • julietjjulietj Member Posts: 15
    I have a 2003 4Runner V8 Sport; several months ago the brakes started pulsing when applied at low speed - at least that's when it was noticeable; feels like driving over bumpy pavement. Not a fast pulse like when the ABS is engaged, more like the tires are out of round. A brake job didn't solve the problem. Tires are fairly new & fully inflated.

    Now I'm feeling a constant slight vibration when braking, and there's an occasional knock from the back - and it's not something rolling around the cargo area. This is starting to make me nervous. The bumpy braking feeling is worse. Any idea what's up?
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    The rotors are warped. DO NOT TURN THEM. It sounds like you had a brake job and they turned the rotors instead of replacing them. They will only do the same thing again in a short time when you turn them.

    I recommend Brembo rotors and OEM (Toyota pads).

    As far has the bumping in the drive train. This is a common problem. If you have Zerk fittings on the u-joints make sure they are lubed. Most 2WD do not have Zerks, but 4WD - 4Runners do.

    I don't want to get in to a long explanation on the drive train. But there are other forums on the net where this is covered. Do a search. But it is really nothing to worry about.
  • julietjjulietj Member Posts: 15
    Thanks, Chuck. I'll stop worrying about the brakes going out or the wheels falling off! And I now that I have some knowledge of what to discuss with the mechanic, I'm confident I'll get the problem corrected this time.
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    The owner's manual on my 2002 4WD states every 90K miles. It is also part of the 90K mile recommended maitenance at my local dealer.
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    I had the same problem, although with a previous generation 2002, and had my rotors replaced. Not only did the pulsing go away, but my stopping ability was noticably improved.
  • sbowl1sbowl1 Member Posts: 1
    Problems with my 2001 4runner. Had the 90k service done. Replaced plugs (6), water pump, timing belt etc. A couple of weeks later it ran rough and the check engine light came on. I took it back to the mechanic and they said the injector wires shorted and needed to be replaced. It ran fine for a few weeks, but then I almost ran out of gas and it immediately started running very rough and the check engine light came on. I took to the same mechanic and they scanned and said there was a misfire code P0300 and that one of the fuel injectors was clogged so they replaced it. They indicated when you get real low on gas, the engine may suck up sediment on the bottom of the tank which can clog injectors etc. I used Techron as they said the other injectors might go bad. Three weeks later, same problem, rough running, check engine light, same as the two times before. This time they scanned and another misfire code of P0300 so another injector was bad. They had to tear into the engine to get at it, expensive, and we agreed they would replace the other two injectors on that side at the same time since they had access to it and it seemed like the injectors had issues. Thought I would save money in the event the other 2 went out in the future. The bad injector seemed to have been fried from running hot.

    Three days later, the exact issues came up again. This time they finally determined the head gaskets were bad. There was leaking of coolant which crystalized and then acted a s a sand blaster, damaging the plugs. Lots of carbon in the engine etc. The truck had not been running hot.

    They said the timing belt was fine. They specifically checked. They said if it was a timing belt issue it would have been very sluggish. After calling numerous shops and Toyota, they determined it was a gasket leak that was between No. 1 and No. 3 which led to the coolant being in the engine which led to all of the carbon. They resurfaced the heads. The valves were OK so they don’t think the issues were caused by the timing belt. They did adjust the valves. They also replaced all of the plugs.

    Seems like the initial 90k service may have led to all the problems since they were dealing with the water pump etc. Seems like they may have simply misdiagnosed the injector issue (spark plug wire issue?) twice, but that was about $1,200 worth of misdiagnoses. Odd that it ran rough immediately after almost running out of gas.

    Seems like at best, they misdiagnosed the problems 2-3 times and at worst, their original work caused the issues. Common for a 2001 Toyota 4 Runner to have bad gaskets, injectors? Is there any way I can legitimately establish any of that? What do you think? Just a series of problems that all started right after the 90k service.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Don't know about all your issues. I do know the best way to mess up your fuel injectors is to run out of gas. The injectors suck up the dirt in the gas tank and get clogged.

    It sounds like your mechanic is not familiar with Toyota 4Runners and are trying things at your expense.

    When it's time for replacing my timing belt. water pump, transmission fluid, etc. at 100K it's going to the dealer.

    MOST good dealers know what they are doing.
  • tvulich80tvulich80 Member Posts: 2
    In the market checking for good 4Runner deals and came across a great deal on a 2005 4.7L 32V V8 DOHC FI. Does anyone currently own this vehicle? This model has roughly 43,000 miles and comes with Navi and the JBL option. Any suggestions, comments, discouragements, etc. welcome.

    Thanks!
  • wilkinsswilkinss Member Posts: 3
    We have a 2005 4runner like the one you are looking at, but no navi. It's my wife's car and she loves it. No trouble to date. My brother has a similar 2003 and loves it also.
  • ponytrekkerponytrekker Member Posts: 310
    I had an SR5 V8 w/o JBL or Navi.

    I had a few problems with it: car died @ 11000 miles. Computer just died for an unknown reason. The dealer replaced it but since the car was out of service for 21 days, I had the lemon law complaint ready to go. Also a few days after the warranty expired I had a filter in the exhaust system go for $600 and change and the serpentine belt replaced for another $600 and change (but that might have included a service visit, I can't remember).

    That and the notorious transmission clunk (a heavy clunk when I would step on the brake at a stop light.
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    The clunk is from the axle/driveshaft, not the transmission.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    I have the Sport Edition - same year, motor, etc. These vehicles are bullet proof. I have almost 51K on it with no problems.

    The only comment I have is that the front end seems to be hard to keep in alignment. Or is it my wife hitting every pothole? :confuse:
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    No alignment problems on my 2003.
  • ponytrekkerponytrekker Member Posts: 310
    >>The clunk is from the axle/driveshaft, not the transmission.

    Whatever.
  • tvulich80tvulich80 Member Posts: 2
    Good to know. The one I am looking at has 43k miles, navi and JBL system - for $17000 asking price. Obviously the market is taking it's toll on these vehicles. The V8 doesn't seem to get much worse fuel economy than the V6. I figure there will be more to come, so I will offer $15k out the door. Thanks for the response!
  • glb5glb5 Member Posts: 39
    Believe me this works
    Remove both ft and rr drive shafts and throughly clean both the male and female splines.
    apply liberally GM part number 12345718 grease ,cost, about $50.00 for 16 oz can from a GM dealer parts counter.
    Reassemble and your clunk will be gone.
    It has worked for me sofar for 15000 miles.
    I hand packed the grease in an inexpensive small grease gun and will pump in some when or if the clunk reappears.

    BELIEVE ME THIS REALLY WORKS. UNTIL I DISCOVERED THIS GREASE I HAD TRIED EVERY KIND OF GREASE KNOWN TO MAN AND ALL WOULD WORK FOR ABOUT 300 TO 500 MILES THAN THE CLUNK WOULD REAPPEAR.SEEMS THE LAST GENERATION TAHOES HAD THE EXACT PROBLEM AND THIS WAS GMS FIX AND I WORKS ON 4RUNNERS AS WELL.
  • trent6trent6 Member Posts: 1
    How much should it cost me (including labor) to replace the front rotors and the brake pads of my 99 4runner limited? They are asking for around $330. As well, when my car is on but in park of idling at a stop light, sometimes the engine shakes the car a bit and the rpm's seem to dip. The engine has even shut off a time or two. But for the most part I just rev the engine and it stops shaking. The engine acts like it would as if it was out of gas. What could be the possible causes of that problem? Thanks for any help you can offer me, I'm really lost here.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    RPMs go up and down with the air conditioner clutch coming on then switching off.

    The $330.00 for front pads and rotors is not an unfair price. Very important...make sure they are OEM pads.
  • jeffmcampbelljeffmcampbell Member Posts: 1
    Same problem, anyone know the solution?

    Please help!
  • passionatemindpassionatemind Member Posts: 9
    Have a '96 4Runner 4x4 (I think it's a v6). Was having trouble with it starting rough (chugging and shaking the whole chassis) last winter, so took it in and had it fixed. Recently it has started up again, but in addition now needs a little extra throttle to get started, and the exhaust is white and smells like something burning for the first few minutes. But, once warmed up, runs fine and the exhaust isn't visible or smelly. It's not running hot, and the check engine light isn't on. We've had the routine maintenance done, and have just moved to a new town (Oregon City, Portland area), so I'm trying to get some idea of what's going on before I take it in so I don't get "taken in" myself. It has only been driven a very small amount since this started happening (we also have a Honda minivan). Man, am I missing my old repair shop right now . . .

    So, any ideas? Any further info I need to add to clarify? I don't know a lot about engines, but can follow directions and have a reasonably good head. ;o)
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Sounds like you have one or more injectors that are resting open, and flooding your cylinders while the engine is not running. Then, when you start it up, you are combusting a lot of leftover gas and it will smoke and chug until everything is right again. You're gonna need a mechanic, and soon before you wash a lot of gas into your oil, which you may want to check right now. Pull the dipstick and smell it. If it smells gassy, you already have a problem, and should change the oil immediately, and get this fixed. You will burn out the engine soon if you don't.
  • passionatemindpassionatemind Member Posts: 9
    Thanks so much. I've smelled gas when standing next to it, so that makes sense to me. I'll check the oil today. There's a dealership close by; I'll get it in and get this taken care of. Is it worth having it towed, or should I just drive it there? (It's less than 10 miles.) I've never changed the oil myself, and so am hesitant to do it now.

    Thanks again . . .
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Oh, I would drive it there. Probably won't hurt it any more than it already has, if any.
  • passionatemindpassionatemind Member Posts: 9
    We got it in yesterday, and word came back that it was a leaky head gasket. {Gulp} When I called our trusted repair place back in Idaho (we live in Oregon now), that was their guess, so I'm not completely surprised. We have yet to hear back on if anything else needs fixing.

    Thanks again for your help!
  • donselldonsell Member Posts: 27
    I bought a new 4Runner yesterday and had the standard underbody/rust talk. They also were selling Clear Coat protection saying that without it you need to wax 2 times a month because all of the clear coats are soft. I asked for their records showing where they've done that all the months that my 4Runner was on the lot and of course they hadn't been. I turned it down.

    Has anyone heard of this?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Yep, it's yet another type of "mop & glow." That stuff is worthless and is simply a profit center for the dealer.

    You were smart to turn it down and it was especially clever of you to ask to see proof that the dealer had been waxing the cars on the lots twice a month.

    A lot of owner's manuals just recommend washing of cars and don't even recommend that you wax them, much less spend big bucks on some kind of aftermarket paint protection (which ultimately is just some sort of wax). link
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    You don't have to wax the car twice a month. As a matter of fact, if you wax your car once a month you will be doing more than most owners. Generally speaking, most paint jobs on new cars will last the life of the car with just regular washing, either by hand or through the commercial car wash.
    Enjoy your new 4Runner!
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I wouldn't buy a car from a dealership that will be that eggregiously dishonest with me to sell me that crap in that manner. Highly insulting. That would have killed the whole deal for me, not just the clearcoat wax.
  • donselldonsell Member Posts: 27
    I've never had a dealer not offer me rust protection. At least this one didn't offer me the $250 scotch guard!

    The worst I ever had was in finance when the payments were $50 more a month than I expected. When I asked him he said that was the life insurance. I told him I didn't want the life insurance, he said everyone takes it. I pointed out that it was because he doesn't tell anyone it's tacked on to the price. i was 23 and it was my first new car purchase. If it happened today I would walk out on the deal.
  • pizzanutpizzanut Member Posts: 1
    How do you reset the system? They came on once a year ago, and I found the reset answer on a Toyota forum somewhere. Involved unplugging one of the connectors attached to the brake control assembly under the hood either when the engine was running, or after engine start. Can't remember the exact plug or sequence with engine running (perhaps only ignition sw on or off). This happens when I go downhill on a rocky hill, while braking. Seems the system is working OK, but then kicks off line with the lights coming on. Can't seem to reset them as my RAM memory doesn't contain the exact plug or sequence of events any more. Anyone have a clue? Thanks
  • passionatemindpassionatemind Member Posts: 9
    Got a call today from the dealership shop where we took it. They got down to the head gasket, and found cracked heads on cylinders 2 & 3. Replacing the heads is quoted at $6,500; or we can buy a used motor through them with a total repair "starting" at around $5,000, which should make it run for a "long time".

    This is a '96 4Runner with about 175,000 miles on it. We bought it in '98 with about 40K, and thought we were having all of the maintenance and repair done properly. The tech says that there has been a coolant leak for quite some time, which contributed to the current problems.

    Long story short, we simply can't/aren't going to pay that much to fix the rig. If it was significantly less, there might be a chance. I'm going to try calling around to see if anyone else can give me a reality check . . . do those numbers sound really high, or is it just a ridiculously hard repair? (I'm nearly clueless on engine construction, although I know the basics of how they work.) Our current bill is $700 just in tear-down time. I know that replacing a head gasket is a big job, but it was done in an afternoon back in '98 when they had the head gasket recall.
    Unless we wanted to tow it out of there, we're up to $2,300 to put the new head gasket in and put it back together. Then someone else will need to tear it down again to fix it.

    Do we have any other viable options? What will happen if it's driven with cracked heads? I'm frustrated that our last shop didn't see the coolant leak when we had it in earlier this year, and it wasn't mentioned at any of the oil changes we had done locally.

    If we did pay the big bucks to get it fixed, is there any chance of selling it to make up the cost? :confuse:

    I know these are a lot of questions, but I don't know who else to ask. Being new in a big city seriously sucks. :mad: So does being dependent on others to take care of your transportation . . . but with a passel of children and a business-owner husband, that's how we've got to do it right now. :(

    Online resources would be great, as well as advice and experience. Thanks so much, anyone, for ideas and help.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    I believe the useful life of the vehicle is at an end. Used late model 4Runners are readily available. I would try to work a deal at that particular dealership to buy another 4Runner (or another vehicle of your choice). Have them discount the $2,300.00 repair. They should be able to take off 20% without any problems at all. Do your homework here on edmunds and other online resources and buy yourself another car/SUV.

    Either pay the balance on the repair or roll it in to the new loan.

    Keep us posted!
  • passionatemindpassionatemind Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for weighing in. I thought that might be the case. We have another vehicle, and so as hard as it is to swallow the $700 (which I'm hoping will be discounted), it looks like we'll just have to scrap it. We're not looking to replace it right now.

    Maybe we can get it towed and sell parts on Craigslist. ;) Or maybe the dealership would buy it from us. I'll have to check 'round and see.

    Thanks again . . .
  • rsmith8rsmith8 Member Posts: 47
    Has anyone had a drain/fill or flush/fill service done for a 2004 (or newer) V8 4Runner with 5sp automatic transmission? The service manual states that Toyota World Service (WS) transmission fluid is required and to replace "only as needed". Does the computer somehow monitor the transmission fluid?
  • trdsctwotrdsctwo Member Posts: 67
    The temperature gauge on my 1996 4-Runner is reading very cool, in fact when
    the engine is totally warmed up it only reads 1/4 to 1/3 warm. In the past it has
    alway read almost to 1/2. I thought that my thermostat may be stuck open
    making it hard for the engine to reach optimal operating temperature but after
    replacing the thermostat there is no difference. What else could be contributing
    to this other than a faulty temperature gauge???
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    I have a 2002 4Runner, 96K+ miles, V6, 4X4, - I've been the only owner, all routine maintenance (minus a couple of oil changes) done by a dealer.

    I have been hearing noises coming from stock one-CD CD player. When I do not have any music playing, the cd player makes noises (not too loud) that sounds almost like the cd is moving back and forth in the player like a DJ moving an album but less noise. It even does it when a cd is not in the player. It doesn't do it every time I drive it, but it does it most times I drive it.

    Any ideas beyond my CD player will probably break soon? :)

    Thanks
  • cjd17cjd17 Member Posts: 1
    The door ajar light on the dash of my 1996 4Runner Limited has been on for over a week. I believe it is the tailgate sensor that is malfunctioning. It may have something to do with the handle and latch sticking, not sure? The main problem is that the key-less entry will not work because it thinks a door is open, more of a nuisance than anything...Call me lazy I guess. Any help on how to fix this or some guidance on to who can is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
  • glb5glb5 Member Posts: 39
    Anyone out there know what is involved with the instalation of this toyota anti theft device?
  • chloe_6chloe_6 Member Posts: 10
    Hoping someone here can offer some advice before I go back to the dealership for round 3.

    I'm having some issues with my 2006 Toyota 4Runner SR5 2WD with 29,000 miles which I've had for 2 years. It's driven perfectly up until about 22,000 miles. It started with a steering wheel vibration at highway speeds. I initially thought the steering wheel vibration was an out of balance tire. Tires were rotated and balanced by the dealer - it seemed to go away for awhile but came back intermittently. On a whim after a few thousand miles, I stopped in at Discount Tire to have them check the tires and thinking maybe I lost a wheel weight. About this time, I started to get noticeable creaking/popping from the front end when turning while braking (into driveway, parking spots, etc.- slow turns).

    Took it back to the dealer stating all the same issues again. They kept my car for the whole day and only applied some lube to some bearings or bushings on the front end in addition to rebalancing for the third time in four months. Well the creaking stopped for about 3 days and now I'm getting an odd clunking up through the steering column when I hit rough spots in the road - like the whole steering column shakes and rattles - not just the steering wheel. The highway speed steering wheel vibration is still there and is more of a shimmy - not a resonance/buzzing. This doesn't seem like the same vibration that a whole thread is devoted to.

    I will be going to a different dealership for this next attempt because I don't want to hear it's just the road anymore or that I just need to get used to the ride of an SUV (I've driven SUVs for the past 7 years). Does anyone have any ideas of what this could be? It seems like it's getting progressively worse and this isn't normal no matter what they say. :mad:

    Would appreciate any help/insight/advice....
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Has anybody done a road force balance on the tires?
    http://www.redwoodgeneraltire.com/balance.htm

    A mechcanical problem is remote. Something that goes away and then comes back will not be mechanical. Most likely it's one (or more) of your tires.

    I would not let the dealer handle the balance. You need to take it to a wheel tire shop that understands how to correctly balance a tire.

    Is the dealer using the "lug centric" adapter? The tires cannot be balanced correctly without using this. What tires are on the vehicle? The Dunlaps are very poor tires.
  • chloe_6chloe_6 Member Posts: 10
    I can't say for sure a road force balance was done but I do know that Discount Tire and the dealership showed up as places who have the GSP9700. Now if they actually use it is another thing. Same for the "lug-centric" adapter. But both are things I will ask specifically about next time.

    The tires currently on the vehicle are Bridgestone Dueler H/T 840s. I've read quite a few reviews on them that they are poor tires - especially in wet conditions. So I'm thinking about new tires. I had Michelin LTXs on a Pathfinder before the 4Runner and they were great. But they were 16" and I have 17" now. What's your opinion on Michelins?
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    I have the Michelin Cross Terrains on my 4Runner-great tire and expensive. The Bridgestones while having poor performance reviews, generally don't have balance issues. Check the weight of the LTX's vs. CrossTerrains. Remember, heavier tire equals poorer gas mileage.

    It doesn't matter if they have the right machine if they do not use the lug centric adapter. If they balance the tires using the center hole in the wheel-it does not balance correctly. Also at this point you must demand a road force on the tires.
  • 2006toy2006toy Member Posts: 6
    I own a 2006 V8 Limited with 56K of primarily highway miles, dealer maintained with no problems at all and have a couple of questions;

    1) How long do the Michelin Cross Terrains typically last? I might have another 6k left.
    2) How long do the original brakes last? I have not had any brake work done
    3) When rotating the tires, one dealership rotates all 5 (spare included) front to back and across as well as "Force Balance" the tires. The other dealership closer to home rotates the 2 front tires with the 2 back tires, does not include the spare or cross the tires left to right. Which method is correct?
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Tire should be re-balanced and rotated every other oil change or so. As far has the brakes are concerned, there are reports of the 4Runner brakes going a long time before replacement. This depends on your driving style. You need to make sure you or your mechanic are inspecting the brakes at the time of the tire rotations.

    Cross Terrains should go a minimum of between 40,000 and 60,000 miles. Remember, when you get down to 2/32nds or so this really handicaps your wet traction and stopping ability.

    Either rotation sequence is correct. Most shops don't want to bother lowering the spare, and then putting the other tire on that "little round thing" and cranking it back up. It's a tedious process. Obviously, your will get a little more wear rotating in your spare. And after 5 years you will not have to by a new spare (due to aging) when you didn't even use it.

    Hope this helps.
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