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Now, if only they would deal with the low-powered stereo system. I expect that when I fade it all the way to the rear in an empty vehicle, the volume will be reduced from my standpoint in the front seat. But the stereo really becomes virtually inaudible when faded to the rear. The dealer's response on this one was - we went around to the other new 4Runners on our lot, and they all sounded the same. Well, maybe instead of showing that this is 'normal', it shows that they all have the same problem.
I also told them that the trip computer which calculates gas mileage and range is off by 10%. Their response - that's within tolerance. I wish my bosses at work were so understanding when I write computer programs - there, the tolerances are a lot tighter!
I did tell them that the amplifier in my JBL was hissing when it was cold outside and they replaced the amplifier per a TSB. The JBL is a little better, but you still have to set the fade to 5 o 6 to get the surround sound effect. If you set it toward the front, most of the sound comes front the center speaker.
The trip computer and front seat problems have been noted before, but it's "normal and they all do it" is the responce.
I wonder if we all got together we could start a class action law suit?
Can anyone explain what the process of appeal is when dealers don't fix problems with cars under warranty? In the Toyota hierarchy, who is over the dealers' heads? This is my first new vehicle ever (I'm 51!), so - even though I've been an activist on other issues - I could use some insight into the regional/national Toyota hierarchy and who to go next.
Thanks.
http://bellsouthpwp.net/g/u/gun101/proof1.pdf
I installed the chromatic mirror and homelink garage door opener (Both purchased from partznet, great service BTW). After DRL, I will only wish for side impact air bags, which I need to wait for my next 4Runner purchase. Thank you for your help.
1. Disconnect battery. Better to do this since you are moving the fuse block around. Don’t forget you will have to reset your auto-up-down features on your window, moon roof, tailgate window, etc. (refer to the manual for procedures).
2. Remove the bottom two screws located on the lower part of the drivers side dash.
3. Tilt the bottom part of the dash up a little and slowly pull the top half of the lower dash panel straight out. It will snap right out. Don’t pull it out too far since there are wire connectors and cables still attached to it. Also, there is a trim ring where your ignition key is inserted. This should pop out also (it came out by itself for me).
4. Disconnect any electrical wire plugs from the dash panel. I left the cables for the hood latch and gas cover releases on and allowed the panel to lay on a small box that I placed on the floor which was just high enough to get the panel out of my way but not too low such that the cables were strained.
5. Remove the two screws that hold the metal shield in place that is behind the panel you just removed and completely pull off the shield.
6. Remove the 3 screws that hold the fuse block in place. The right and top screws are easy but the lower left hand one is more difficult since the fuse block bracket rests behind a metal bracket. I found it easier to remove the metal mounting bracket on the left side also (one extra screw to remove-total of 4 screws). You will probably have to slightly pop out the left side plastic kick panel near the foot well to get to this extra screw out.
7. Now your can slide the fuse block out a couple of inches toward you and tilt it just enough so that you can reach the relay on the back side of the block. I did not remove any connectors from the block. You may have to slide some wires around to tilt the fuse block more easily.
8. On the backside of the block you will see a beige relay about 1.5" wide that has a short wire harness connected to it. The relay and wire harness are mounted on slide brackets on the backside of the fuse block. Both of these parts must be removed. Note that the short harness is connected to the standard lighting harness, which you will use to directly connect to the new relay.
9. To get the old relay and harness off, place a small thin screwdriver underneath the relay on the left hand side of the bracket holding the relay, and push it in underneath to the right while sliding the relay out to the left at the same time. Use the same procedure for the short wire harness. Hard part is over.
10. Connect the new bigger relay (2.5" and black) to the lighting harness you removed from the short harness connector and slide the new relay to right on the bracket where the old relay sat.
11. You may want to temporarily reconnect the battery and start the engine to make sure the DRL’s come on. The DRL lights should turn on as soon as you start the car and should stay on until you either turn on the headlights or turn off the engine. If you want to run the engine without the DRL lights on you have to set the parking brake before you start the engine.
11. After you are satisfied, disconnect the battery again and reverse the above 1-7 steps to get things back to normal. Good luck.
Edmunds Maintenance Guide
You can also find them at the nhtsa.dot.gov site. (that's the right URL, so it's www dot nhtsa dot dot dot gov - leave it to Uncle <g>).
Full text is available at Alldata.com for a price; some libraries subscribe and you can get the full text that way for free.
Steve, Host
I don't see anything for Toyota for 2004 at Alldata except for the Sienna.
Maybe submitting a Contact Us form will help get the TSB files updated.
Steve, Host
Your 4Rrunner has an inordinate amount of gravitons (from the particle theory of gravity waves). From Einstein's general theory of relativity, gravity distorts electro-optical waves. Those excess gravitons are distorting the electrical energy going to your mirror.
Either that, or you dealer did it wrong
Sure seems to me that it is the height mechanism or something other than its mount to the rails. That seems secure to me.
I find it quite irritating and distracting to have the seat "knock" every time I turn or brake or accelerate.
I am also disappointed that the most expesive vehicle I have ever purchased has the worst seat. And that includes a 1968 Dodge Polara for goodness' sake!
Shame on Toyota for not fixing it by now.
I currently have a 2004 Sport 4x4 V8 that includes the factory auto-dimming mirrors. I have direct experience in special ordering one with the factory auto dimming mirrors.
My factory installed mirror version does not have the problems that you are reporting. I suspect it is an installation problem, most likely a wiring problem.
The leaking is so profuse that it's as if someone opened a tap of water under the hood. I know that when air conditioner is used there can be some condensation but the amount I see in this 4Runner seems abnormal to me. It leaves a trail behind wherever I go.
Any ideas on what could be possibly wrong?
Thanks a lot!