Nissan Pickup Owners Hangout

zanegrey · January 2006

this truck has a carb.
when you climbed the hill you ran out of gas and the truck stall.

remember carbs have floats...

then you pumped the hell out the gas pedal trying to get it started.
which fouled the plugs..

do a proper tune up and chek the carb for damage..

zanegrey · January 2006

check your secondary coil...

zanegrey · January 2006

go to nissanmins.com and ask someone there for schematics

vonner · February 2006

I have just purchased an 1987 nissan hardbody pickup. But i have found a very odd problem. As im driving i find that every once in a while between 2000 - 3000 rpm the truck will jerk almost as if it is missing. But the problem is so intermitent i cant figure out what it could be. The problem seems to be temperature related because the colder it is outside the worse the problem gets even tho it still does it durin the day it is very minimal. Ive run diagnostics and found no problems and because the probelm is so intermitent its hard to show mechanics. I recently replaced all 8 spark plugs with Ngks but i dont know where to go form here any ideas?

smgardner30 · February 2006

I have a 92 nissan xe pu. when i bought it i replaced the computer and this seemed to fix all my problems. two months later i started having problems with a erratic idle. they idle will be anywhere from 500-2300 rpms. i've replaced the O2 sensor,throtle body, adjusted the timing, rotor cap, plugs, plug wires, and i just can't think of anything else that would cause this. the nissan dealership spent a day on it and was pulling there hair out begging me to come pick it up. if you have any ideas please feel free to give it to me

zanegrey · February 2006

check your secondary coil..

zanegrey · February 2006

check your throttle position sensor..

fronty00 · February 2006

Did you ever fix the headlights problem on your Nissan, I am having the same problem with my 2000 Frontier, checked all fuse relays an everything is fine I have high beam , fog light but no low beam. Please let me know where to look

Thank You

zanegrey · February 2006

it is probably the light switch...

wilson10 · February 2006

Dash gages intermittently quit in 2000 frontier. King Cab

Seems to be heat related as it only happens in winter when heat is turned up. Not summer when AC is on.

Everything,Speedometer,Tach,fuel remain frozen at the reading when it went out and comes back in a few minutes or as long as a couple of hours. Aggrivating on a long trip when you need to know your speed through towns.

zanegrey · February 2006

it is probably the light switch itself.
u cam also remove the gauge cluster and c/s the main connector plug ,that is where the wireharness connects to the gauge..

good luck

dancingchicken · February 2006

Probably a simple little explanation for this one, but I have had an 87 4x4 standard cab pickup for months now, tha tI bought with 175,000 miles on it. Truck's great after a lot of work put in it. I have not been able to figure out what the "Interlock" switch on the dash is supposed to do. When I hit it, the e-brake warning light comes on but that's all I notice. Anybody know what's up with that?

zanegrey · February 2006

you should log on to 4x4parts.com.
this is a website more familar with the 4x4 's.

good luck

anthonyl · February 2006

Hi folks, My engine malfunction light comes on saying the number 4 cyclinder is misfiring. The truck actually runs quite good with no evidence of a misfire. I have replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires but contine to get the same diagnosis. (after disconnecting the battery, the light will go out. Once the truck is driven for awhile it will come back on.)

Anybody out there have a solution to this problem?

nelson8 · March 2006

I have a 97 4X4 XE that had a code that said Bank 1 catalyst efficency failiure. Basically, the catalytic converter was plugged. I straight piped it to solve the problem.

alwayshunting · March 2006

I have a 92 nissan pu 4x4 24oo 4 cyl. sounds like the problem you had with yours. Mine starts runs momentarily then floods out. I can clamp the incoming fuel hose and it will run at an idle. but when open it floods out. The shop said the computer was bad, changed it, same thing we can't figure it out. Any one out there who might help? alwayshunting

iceman_69_00 · March 2006

This might sound really dumb.. but have you checked the bulb?

iceman_69_00 · March 2006

I have been thinking about buying or leasing a '06 Titan. I am just wondering if this is a good idea, or if I should buy/lease a different truck? I am looking for a truck that is good offroad. It will be used as a bush/hunting truck. Any suggestions?

kim14 · March 2006

how do you remove the ignition switch or tumbler from the ignition switch on a 1991 nissan pick up ,pathfinder is the same .

808hardbody · March 2006

I just got my hands on a 1986 Nissan Hardbody for $400.00. It has a Nissan Z motor in it. I don't know nothing about Nissan's, but when I drive it in first gear, I can't put the throttle all the way down or the truck will jerk like someone put the breaks on. Basically, I need to only quarter throttle to half throttle to drive it anywhere, and when I get her onto 4th or 5th gear and then floor her, I get a mean back fire.

Again I don't know nothing about this car, I did change the exhaust, but don't know what else to check for...distributer..rotor...sparkplugs. I just needed a car to go to work and don't want to spend to much on this truck...

Any idea's on what it might be..

Thanks in advance..

zanegrey · March 2006

sounds like the secondary coil is bad..

bhc2 · March 2006

I have a 1984 Nissan pickup. It has been running great, until yesterday. The alternator light came on--it was dim, but got brighter as I accelerated. As I drove the car began to lose power. I had to downshift to 3rd, then 2nd, then to first to get home. As I pulled in the driveway, the engine stalled, and would not restart.

A few hours later, the truck started immediately, but the alternator light is still on. The battery is fairly new, and has water in it.

Any idea what the problem is?

anthonyl · March 2006

jhall4, did you ever find a solution to your problem? I've got the same problem with my 97 Nissan. Have replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, and switched fuel injectors from cylinder number 4 to number 1. All this made no difference. I still get a shutter in the engire when driving 50-60 mph, or around 2000 rpm. After 20-40 minutes of driving, the engine malfunction light comes on and the engine shutter becomes more noticeable. A check of the engine code says "4th cylinder misfire."

This problem is driving me nuts. Please help someone!

wayvic · April 2006

I will try the dot 3 trick, but only as a temporary measure, since my belts have over 40,000 miles on them. There is some fraying, also.

How do I change the three belts out? There must be some steps that will make the process go more smoothly. I am not a mechanic.
wayvic

808hardbody · April 2006

Would this be the ignition coil? If so, where exactly is it located in the vehicle?

Thanks...

But now I kind got the problem down....when I stomp on the gas, in idle, the engine pulses, revs then idles and revs then idles and the whole time the gas is to the floor.

But when I gradually lay down the gas pedal, she will rev all the way smooth with no pulsing..is that still the secondary coil..

thanks in advance again...

chris4spd · April 2006

I had the same problem. I took my 1992 Nissan 4x4 to a company that specializes in electrical wiring and they found a short circuit in the starter circuit in the fuse box under the dash. Another service shop told me they traced the problem to between the ignition key and the starter relay. If you have this same exact problem, then you should be able to jump start your truck with a battery or another car to overload the starter circuit.

Hope this helps!

anthonyl · April 2006

Went to local Nissan dealer. They cleaned the EGR system, which costs $371. No improvement. Engline light still comes on and it runs rough. Now they plan to take off the intake manifold and clean the inside.

anthonyl · April 2006

That's right folks. My 1997 Nissan truck now makes a loud tapping sound when under acceleration or going up hills. It never did that until serviced by Nissan. What gives?

slipslide · April 2006

I think you on the right track. Also changes the fuel filter, it is also possible that it fuel regulator.

slipslide · April 2006

I had this issue on my 97 Nissan but mine was 5spd. It was the synchronize in the second gear. It is possible that it could be solenoid or torque convertor.

ryancey · April 2006

I have a 94 nissan pickup with the 2.4L 4 cylinder. The engine knocks about half the time I drive it. What could be causing the knock. My truck uses about 1 quart of oil between oil changes. Could it be carbon build up, or something more serouse?

timcoll · April 2006

I am the proud owner of a 90 hardbody that kicks in and out of overdrive and shifts into second gear rough. It is obviously and Automatic 2wd 4cyl. Has 140k on it. Any ideas what might be wrong besides the need for a new transmission? The Truck isn't worth a new tranny. The engine is kinda noisy but burns no oil.

ryancey · April 2006

What was the problem?? Was it a cluster problem or was it the sensor that goes into the transmision? My 94 pickup speedometer doesnt work either and i dont know what part to buy to fix it.

abe_cronin · April 2006

i am trying to restore a 85 nissan pickup and i cant find resources or iformation on what my engine looked like new. i have vacume hoses with screws blocking them and i need to be able to find replacment parts or scematics i am desperate i want this truck to be something special but i do not know were to start...help

blueridge · April 2006

I have a 1988 Nissan pick-up with 236,000 miles. It has developed an annoying problem. It starts right up, then dies about 30 seconds later. It will start again right away, and if you feather the gas can keep it running, but sounds like it is missing or starving for gas. I replaced plugs, wires, ditributer cap, rotor button, fuel filter, oxygen sensor. The strange thing is, is when the outside temprature reaches about 80 degrees the problem seems to minimize, but when its cold outside, the problem is so bad you cannot drive the truck. My mechanic friend put it on his scanner and only the o2 sensor showed bad.I dont know if his scanner was up to date. I have heard it could be the computer itself, the air flow sensor, the engine temp. sensor, and all kinds of things. If anyone has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated. This has been the best vehicle I ever owned and Im not ready to give up on her after 18 great years. :sick:

808hardbody · April 2006

Well..

Going to try to change the distributor cap and wires tomorrow. If I have enough funds, get new spark plugs.

Would this be a timing issue???

Thanks

alwayshunting · April 2006

I have a 92 nissan 4/4 pu 4 cyl that starts and dies and will not start back. It is flooding out, have changed the computer, fuel pressure relief valve, throttle position module to no avail. I can pinch the fuel line and it will start and run if I get it pinched just right. Would appreciate anyones help on mine. Yours might have the same problem.
alwayshunting

808hardbody · April 2006

Okay guys...get this.

We have had about 1 1/2 months of straight rain. Its been sunny now for about 1 1/2 weeks now. When I started up the truck, I noticed that the RPM gauge was starting to work and the truck now works fine. I took her on the freeway and I can floor her down with no problems in all gears with no problem.

My question is, was something wet that is now dry and making my RPM gauge work and the engine run good???

I was thinking of covering the connectors to the coils because on my truck, its right next to the hood openings. I was just going to try and cover them up with electrical tape. Would that do, or should I check something else like a sensor or something??

thanks guys...

zanegrey · April 2006

u should do some preventive maintinance on your truck.

sounds like a loose or damn aged wire..

zanegrey · April 2006

go to autozone and have the alt checked..

zanegrey · April 2006

goto nissanminis.com.

talk to tomas hayden

zanegrey · April 2006

this truck has a computer under the pass seat .

read the trouble codes...

but off hand i 'll say temperture sending unit is faulty..

zanegrey · April 2006

read the trouble codes

sentientpuppet · April 2006

I bought this truck second hand from a guy who was selling it for a friend who moved out of state... He didn't know much about the work that was done on it but thinks that the guy put a new carb in it... I have an extra one that came with it. So I don't know exactly whats good and what's bad.
So the problem is that when I'm driving (and only then) and I floor the gas pedal, it seems like the engine floods and cuts out... there is a specific spot just before full throttle that it happens. Also if I'm moving at least about 50 mph and I let off the gas pedall to decelerate, it sounds like I'm popping popcorn under the hood (misfires?). When I am parked though and I rev up really high the engine doesn't cut at all but when I back off I get the same popcorn sorta sound.

I'm thinking maybe a gasket is leaking? although I can't pinpoint one. I already replaced the fuel filter so its not that. And I don't think it is the timing cause I unscrewed the distributer cap and turned it while reving the engine with no change.
The truck gets me around but at the expense of about 10-12mpg.
Anyone have any suggestions?

zanegrey · April 2006

these carbs are notorius for the float sticking.

clean and service the float and maybe replace the spring that operates the float .

also check float to see if it is infact floating..

that carb is 20 years old.
if you can't find the problem maybe consider buying a aftermarket weber carb.

sentientpuppet · April 2006

thanks man! I will do some work on it... the entire carb has to be removed to service the float correct? at lseat thats what it says in my manual but it seems like it would be sort of accessable since its up front.

zanegrey · April 2006

no it does not have to come off.

you will have to loosen the fuel line and pry a little but the side will come off...

sentientpuppet · April 2006

Well I'm not sure that was the problem althogh I don't have the right tool to measure whether it was adjusted right. It looked fine by eyeballing it... The chamber did have some rust spots and gunk in it though, but nothing I thought would hinder it... but then I've never done carb work before. I opened up the float chamber on the extra carb I have though and it looked like it had been well cleaned. looked brand new in fact. And now I'm wondering if the origional owner did in fact rebuild it but never got around to re-installing it. The gaskets look really nice too. So I think I might just throw this one on there and see how well it preforms and maybe i won't have to diagnose anything.

mikeyp32883 · April 2006

I have owned my hardbody for 2 years. It is my second hardbody and my third Nissan. Before now I was a very avid supporter of Nissan but over the past two years have grown quite discouraged with this vehicle. Since a month after I bought it, it has had this problem in which the truck bucks and shakes when i drive down the road. As a result of this problem I have replaced a variety of parts including the exhaust manifold, a whole new exhaust, starter, mass air flow sensor, battery, alternator, new gas tank, new syanoide sensor (spelling)?, consitant oil changes with synthetic oil, premium gas...i still question how i afford it with the prices these days. the truck is a 95 regular cab 2.4 4 cylinder and 4x4. frankly i am out of patience and money with this vehicle but the problems feels like gas flow issues somewhere i just have very limited knowledge of vehicles and could use some advice is to where i should look next for the fix

ivantherussian · April 2006

I have a 1989 Nissan 4x4, with the Z24 Engine, 190,000 miles. The truck runs great. I have owned it since it was new. I have been pretty good, about keeping up on the maintaince. I tend to spend a certain amount of money every year on maintaince, repairing systems.

My goal is keep this rig as daily driver. It is cheap to operate and insure.

I am dealing with age issues on the truck. The fuel pump went out; I replaced it. I need to replace all the coolant hoses. The brake system is on the list.

I have two questions:

Are there any other components similiar to the hoses I should just replace because of sheer age?

On the brake system, should I replace the master cylinder too? I am planning on replacing everything on the brakes (Ii.e.) the key component: wheel cylinders, caliphers for sure. Rotors and drum if I have too.

Thanks

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