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Nissan Pickup Owners Hangout

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Comments

  • asaasa Member Posts: 359
    The manual suggests use of 91 Octane "for improved vehicle performance" only, but it is definitely not necessary. I've burned only 87 Octane in my '06 4.0L V-6 and aside from one occasion when I bought some crummy gas, my Frontier SE Crew runs fine with gobs of power, even with heavy loads in back. I do no towing. You'll be fine with 87 I suspect. Good luck with your purchase.
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    bad fuel injector?
  • hoss51hoss51 Member Posts: 2
    i answered my own question. turns out it was the crank angle sensor in the distributor had dust in the slits on the rotor plate. all i had to do was blow air through the rotor plate and it was good as new. glad i tried this before buying a new distributor for $400.
  • dave140dave140 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 97 Nissan SE pickup 4 cyl., V-6, 5 speed 4wd. I need to replace the sending unit on my pickup. It is the one that is located on top of the gas tank. Can anyone tell me where I can locate one? Nissan wants 340.00. I have already put alot of money into this truck in the past 8 months and have had it only running 2 weeks in 8 months.
    I have replace the oxygen sensor, mass air flow sensor, had a major problem with my spark plugs. Now I have this problem. When I try and drive it I have gas spewing out all over underneath so had to park it. (again) this truck only has about 62,000 miles on it and the body is in excellent shape. Need to get this thing back on the raod. So if anyone can tell me where to find the sending unit located ontop of the gas tank for less than 340.00 I would greatly appreciate it.
  • 8ball28ball2 Member Posts: 9
    Try this site. They saved me money on a pump.

    http://www.autopartsfair.com/
  • 8ball28ball2 Member Posts: 9
    It's been a few months since this was posted, but it might still be useful. My speedometer did the same thing off and on for about a year, then it stopped working completely. I took out the panel and hooked up a drill where the cable inserts in the back of the meter, the meter seemed to be working, so I checked the cable. The cable seemed to recess easily when I pressed on it. This lead my to believe it wasn't making a good connection into the slot on the back of the meter. I removed the cable from the truck and hooked that up to a drill. I held it so it would produce a little resistants, like it might have snaking around the body to hook into the transmission, sure enough the cable separated. I suspect it was unraveling and was only working with a few wires and that's why it was gradual. Hope this works for you.
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    What year was your truck, I have a 94 and i belive it is all elctronic, not mechanical
  • 8ball28ball2 Member Posts: 9
    I have a 1993 SE 4x4. The repair manual I have is for 1980-1996, so I would think it would be the same for a 94. You'll know right away if you see the square end of the cable behind the instrument panel where it plugs into the speedometer.
  • makeshiftmechmakeshiftmech Member Posts: 1
    Bought an 88 nissan d21 truck 2x4 with a z24i engine 140k, soley for work purpouses. It's been sitting in some guy's yard for years which has been trouble enough. Already replaced the clutch master cylinder, oil pan gasket and a slew of other things. The front crank oil seal is shot so I decided to try and find the part. Came in from nissan, and I waited for the weekend to do this. The first thing I did was loosen the adjustment bolt on the alternator to loosen the belts on the pulleys. Realized I didn't have a big enough socket for the crank pulley, I snapped everything back together. Now my engine will turn but not start.(sounds like it's out of gas) Is this coincidental? Surely nothing I did caused this. It's been suggested that maybe I somehow turned a pulley and got something out of time. At this point, I am tearing out my hair for not knowing. All spark plug wires are in working order. Was there some sort of short because I didn't disconnect the negative battery cable before I lossened a nut on the alternator? Haven't got a clue. Please help.
  • blaklegeblaklege Member Posts: 1
    i don't suppose by some chance there Silver-Bullet, you still have that stock am/fm cassette that came in your 97 nissan truck do you? and does it work?
  • ggannggann Member Posts: 8
    My truck starts and runs fine up to about 2700 rpm. It then falters back to 2000 and after releasing the gas pedal and reappling it will go back to 2700. I have changed fuel filter, check fuel pump pressure, tested with an ohm meter the throttle position and mass air flow. I have installed new complete distributor and coil assemblies. I have added gas through the air intake and checked exhaust flow. Nothing has changed the rpm problem. I live 70 miles from the nearest Nissan dealer. My local mechanic shop is stumped also.
  • ggannggann Member Posts: 8
    Update on 93 4x4: I got my truck back and tried to drive it home. 2 miles or so.Under load the rpm will only get up to 1300 rpm. It does not backfire yet does make a popping noise as if the fuel is not adequate. While checking the fuel pressure I noticed the fuel pressure went up slightly when I got to 2700 rpm just as it would falter. It will still get to 2700 rpm in the driveway. My mechanic thinks the fuel one of the injector drivers in the computer may be bad. But will any replacement Nissan computer work and does it have to be programmed for my truck and engine? The mechanic said the lights (one red and one green) on the computer did seem to work properly and give the correct error codes. Where can I find out how to get and read these codes? I haven't found a source for a good Nissan truck repair manual. Any help is appreciated. GGann :confuse:
  • danny006980danny006980 Member Posts: 3
    please help i think these questions have been answered but i don't understand how to read them and i would like to make sure i am trackin properly. i am an avid mini trucker, and mechanic(backyard kind, with schooling, lack money and computer help).
    my truck runs like a top till about 2600 r.p.m.s, then bogs and hesitates there, replaced, fuel filter, t.p. sensor, and fuel pressure regulator. still haven't replaced the fuel pump, nor the injectors. and while i was at it, any info for cheap fun upgrades would be appreciated......danny
  • danny006980danny006980 Member Posts: 3
    i own a 96 Nissan pick up, 2.4 single o.h.c.
    i would like to know if a d.o.h.c. head is a direct bolt on to the s.o.h.c bottom end.
    and anyone with turbo knowledge on how to install, a Frankenstein turbo on my truck, and hoping to find out how and what upgrades will be necessary for this to be an equivalent to a turbo 240sx drift motor. any and all help will be much appreciated..... Danny
  • bcsteel42bcsteel42 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier with 30K miles. The dealer recommended the scheduled maintenance of not only replacement of the engine oil but also replacing the automatic transmission fluid, deferential oil, coolant, drive belts and transfer case oil. Other than the engine oil, is it really necessary to change the rest of the items mentioned every 30K? In my opinion the dealer is really into the preventative maintenance. If I would go with replacing everything above, which items should I address?
  • bcsteel42bcsteel42 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier with 30K miles. The dealer recommended the scheduled maintenance of not only replacement of the engine oil but also replacing the automatic transmission fluid, deferential oil, coolant, drive belts and transfer case oil. Other than the engine oil, is it really necessary to change the rest of the items mentioned every 30K? In my opinion the dealer is really into the preventative maintenance. Of the service items mentioned above, if I would choose have something serviced, what items should be addressed?
  • jw13jw13 Member Posts: 1
    COULD ANYONE TELL ME WHERE TO GET A DIAGRAM OF HOW TO CHANGE THE FUEL PUMP ON A 93 NISSAN ALSO WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO GET USED PARTS FOR IT.
  • wgorewgore Member Posts: 2
    Have a 1993 King cab that gets bad gas mileage. Does anyone know a fix.
  • merviemervie Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Nissan Pickup. 4 cyl. 2 wh. dr. auto. It has a bad air flow meter. Once the car starts to warm up it starts to dump major fuel into the engine. Keeps throwing a MAF code. Heres the problem. The only place I can find a new one is the dealer and they want a lot of money for it. None of the parts stores even list it for this year and I have been unable to find one on line. I have yet to find one in a junk yard. Anyone know why this is unavailable except for $470 from the dealer? Is this and odd year. I dont need the entire throttle body. Just the inch by inch and a half meter with hot wires. Anyone know wher e I can find one used or new? I'm desperate and dissapointed.
  • cobra77cobra77 Member Posts: 3
    I have a '97 standard pickup 5sp man with 2.4L.(Is that engine something else or what!) I bought it new and it has 197k. It's been a dream. From day one it has gotten 26-27mpg. The last 2 months it has tanked to 22-23mpg. I do my own oil changes but am not a mechanic. I have a very good one and keep it maintained. The O2 sensor was replaced 15k ago and everything was fine. Recently did a fuel injector power flush, fuel filter, air filter, the usual suspects, still no change. The valve cover gasket has now been seeping for quite sometime. Could this be it? The catalytic converter? It's driving me nuts! Also, it runs and idles like it is new. Any help or suggestions? Thank you very much.
  • ggannggann Member Posts: 8
    I can't help but My 93 2.4L also did run and idle great but would not get past 2700 rpm. Now the fuel injectors are not working although I have 12 volts on one side of the injector connectors. This problem came up last week when I was toubleshooting using my new Haynes book. My mechanic who finally gave up on the rpm problem thought it might be the computor since the injector drivers are in the computor. My previous posts are #482 & 483. I haven't gotten any help. Good Luck
  • nassin1nassin1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there, yesterday i was driving my truck nuthing rong doing fine stoped to get some food goot back in and started it up all is good..... then driving down the road it has compleat power failer wont go past 2500rpm and the engin light is on make it home and the code reads MAF and MAF pending... so today cleanded the MAF did full tune up reset the ecu and drive to work every thing fine untill she warms up then it did the whole fall on its face again iv pulled the maf and started the truck and the same thing happens wont go past 2500rpm, cant figur out what to do can some one help
  • ggannggann Member Posts: 8
    NOTE, SEE MY POSTS #482,483,493. I still have :mad: a problem with my 2.4L but it is now worse. I coudn't get an error diagnostic code but it would start and get to 2700 rpm then fall back to 2000 and try to rev up again. I disconnected the 0-2 sensor to see if that code would show up. Now the thing tries but won't start and run. I added gas down the intake and still it tries but wouldn't keep running. Now this is scary, I pulled all of the injector connectors and tried it. I ran for almost a minute. This tells me the injectors are suppling too much gas and the engine RPM falls down. There must be sensor that tells the ECU that the mixture is too lean and to increase the gas supply. I haven't found out which sensor that is but this could be the original RPM problem. Too much gas will cause the engine RPM to decrease. If I find out I will let you know.
  • danny006980danny006980 Member Posts: 3
    my 96 2.4 does the same thing and the only thing i havent replaced is the crank angle sensor, but it is one piece distributer and all. dont have 250 dollars to buy new one and try it, they cant just test the distributer, need the whole truck running. mine runs great to 25-2600 rpms, acts like it hits a rev limiter....any luck please let me know as well. much appreciated.....danny
  • ggannggann Member Posts: 8
    My 2.4L has the same problem but my mechanic did replace the dist with a brand new one and the problem did not change. I have since determined the problem is with the fuel injector pulses. They are allowing TOO much gas to be injected and the engine won't rev past 2700. I did find a broken wire going to the air temp sensor. Repaired that problem but now it won't start and continue running. The air flow meter(MAF) as it is called on my 93 may be the problem but haven't got back to trying to troublesoot that component. At one point after many starting tries I disconnected all four injector connectors. It started and ran for 30-45 secounds. I had put gas down the intake. When I tried adding just one injector it died. Still fishing for answers. No computor codes have ever shown up. Good Luck
  • wern10wern10 Member Posts: 14
    thats an easy one,mine did the same thing,it was a bad sensor on the transfer case, its an easy fix...ive been a professional mechanic for 16 yrs. now and that seems to be the norm w/ nissans
  • wern10wern10 Member Posts: 14
    im a mechanic in a reputable garge and ill give u an idea if u need one...usually when u can unplg the injector harness and the vehicle then starts and runs,until the available runs fuel out, that is a sure sign that either the comp. has your injectors wide open, in which case youll need to replace the comp., or you got a short in the injector harness, and thats alittle more time consuming,but thats where id start my search..most dealerships can test your comp., forlittle to no charge if u take it out, but call the dealer first cause some cant test them unless they are in the vehicle.and usually you can pick up a cheap harness at a salvage yars at a reasonable price
  • wern10wern10 Member Posts: 14
    i see this all the time,ive been doing auto repair professionally for 16 yrs.the only you need to worry about your timing belt is during the reg. scheduled intervals. the manufacturer gives maint. times and specs because they really do work..if your truck doesnt have an oil leak up frt. around the belt housing then chances are youre still good till your scheduled time,but if you are a worry wart,than changing your belt early wont hurt a thing,just to inform you,not scare you, if you have an interference engine than its a good chance that IF the timing belt broke,for whatever remote twist of bad luck, then its almost guaranteed that catastrophic engine failure WILL result,ie,the valves will make contact with the pistons and usually the cylinder head cracks, the pistons are destroyed from grooves, nicks,and shavings, and the cylinder walls themselves depending on engine speed or RPMs,will scar to the point theyll need bored,or the engine block replaced,ie a whole engine replacement...this is a worst case scenario.let me know if i helped.
  • wern10wern10 Member Posts: 14
    my 95 d21 just did the same thing,it was actually the little condenser on the back of the alt. by the way,if you takr the alt. out from the bottom it is so much easier.if you dont know what a condenser looks lie,its 2 inch long, about the diameter of a nickle and has 1 wire coming out of it.after that i havent had any trouble out of it.
  • wern10wern10 Member Posts: 14
    check the main fusable link.it comes off the alt/ starter circuit as a main power source to the cab its in between main hot batt. cable and chassis harness to the inside.
  • wern10wern10 Member Posts: 14
    is there a engine temperature sensor anywhere close to your distributor? if so then it maybe bad,when its cold its calling for so much fuel that its actually flooding the engine [in the computers eyes] in reality its not, so the comp thinks its flooding and shuts down the injectors to stop the flood situation..so when you put the hair dryer ie, heat, either on the dist. or in close proximity to the engine sensors, the comp. reads as normal and the truck starts.
  • wern10wern10 Member Posts: 14
    a rough ride, excessive play in the steering wheel.if you jack the frt. of your vehicle up and support it properly, have an assistant help,you can watch the balljoints movement if the assistant places one hand on top of the whl. and grabs the bottom of the whl. w/ the other, youll be able to see any movement in the upper or lower BJs, if the assistant tries to pull out on the bottom and push in the top of the wheel alternate between the 2 actions [push,pull,push ,pull] and if your assist. does this corrctly youll see them move.the same holds true for the tie rod ends and other frt. end components except swap positions of your hands from top and bottm to one on each side of the whl. one towards the back of the truck and one towards the front, doing this youll be able to see excessive movement in 90% of your frt. suspensionas far as frt and rear SHOCKS,no struts on our trucks,thats all in the ride and stablilty,rough ride,swaying motion[dog walking]these are all common signs of bad or failed shocks,and sometimes stabilizer bar link pins and bushings. i use TRW suspension parts for normal vehicle use,they are affordable and extremely dependable, plus the warranty is really good and they have no issue honoring it and as shocks go monroe has a very good and wide array of medium to heavy duty shocks at a very cost effective price but try to stay w/ a medium duty shock to keep the ride firm but not kidney busting,but for extreme sport usage youll have to go to 4X4 offroad application which youll have to research,i only use mine for normal things [hauling,pulling,pushing etc.] hope this helps
  • wern10wern10 Member Posts: 14
    have you checked for cracked chaffed electrical connectors?cracked distributor shaft,factory defunct ignition parts such as cap,plug wires and other simple things?if its EFI. maybe you got a bad coolant sensor,and it floods thinking it needs the extra fuelon start up.maybe just bad injectors.
  • wern10wern10 Member Posts: 14
    tbi pressure is 36.3 psi, sounds like you have a computer ground issue or the computer is just bad.check for pulse at injectors.
  • wern10wern10 Member Posts: 14
    you're rite about the balljoints causing a shimmy.i do my own work and thats this weekends projct. i jacked up and supported the frt. end and shook the whl. top and bottom and i got some pretty good play. you must pay attention to your truck,good job. most people wouldve never had made that connection believe it or not.
  • wern10wern10 Member Posts: 14
    have you assumed that being self adjusters and with that many miles maybe theyre just wore out?ive got the same issue and short of a cam and lifter overhaul ive come to terms with the noise as just NATURAL.ive tried 15dollar a quart full synthetics and got peace and quiet for about 1200 miles,my dads is worse w/ less miles,his sounds like an old tank w/ loose tracks running over lined up washboards,but it has no power loss or any adverse affects.we are gettin ready to do the cam and lifters in his just for the noise,i'll keep posting to let you know if it cured his noise issue.being that bad it wont be long for results.
  • wern10wern10 Member Posts: 14
    national parts locator most salvage yards have them,if they cant get your parts they go to a web link which costs a little yearly,to find what they need for you.you can find a locator on the net,pay their fee and have unlimited access to any part for any vehicle ever made,for however the subscription last.but i got my fuel pump from Advance auto parts,but i live in ohio close to dayton.
  • wern10wern10 Member Posts: 14
    the distributor has like a dual adjustment,the shaft and then the rotor button itself can be tweaked, quite a bit actually, if your timing is out,its my experience that itll still run fine but fuel mileage will be like driving a 72 cadilac with a bad tune up.check the timing.bring up # one and check from there youll need a repair manual to assist you, but timing is everything.ive also found that bosch and bosch platinum spark plugs only perform as advertised for a very limited time,our garage has had 21 tow ins in the last 4 months due to people doing a routine tuneup and installing bosch plugs,they just fail, we call them a quater mile plug,after the first run you gotta change them out, a cool spark plug doesnt burn efficiently and the end result is poor mileage.
  • wern10wern10 Member Posts: 14
    they rarely fail,so the parts houses dont have enough profit incentive to stock it.call my guys they can ship it if they got it.im in ohio and the junk yard has several locations they are also on the web but i dont have the link close so heres the name:G.W.PIERCE AUTO, New Paris,Ohio...the other yard is the same name but in Spiceland, Indiana they have a national parts locator..or you can register for your own access to a locator on the net.its used auto parts national locator,theres a small fee but you get unlimited access to unlimited parts for any number of vehicles.our garage uses several, its well worth the 40 dollar registration fee.
  • ggannggann Member Posts: 8
    Thank You This is something for me to check out. Autozone wants $240 for the new computor which may be worth it if it works. How about a used one for a salvage yard? Will any 1990's Nissan truck computor work? The numbers on my computor are MECM T132A plus two other numbers 2039 and 3414 Thanks again for your Help as I am 70 miles from a Nissan dealer and my local mechanic gave up after trying for 6 weeks. Gary
  • zanegreyzanegrey Member Posts: 32
    hey gary ,
    email me ..
    i can help you with parts you need for nissan trucks..
  • 95nissanxe195nissanxe1 Member Posts: 2
    Towing: 90-97 2wd 4 cylinder 5spd- 3500 lbs MAX. Alot of these with bumpers can only handle 2000 lbs unless you get a separate towing hitch rated up to or past the max of 3500 lbs. This is for anyone looking up towing. 6 cylinder long beds can go upto 5000 lbs according to owner manual.
  • 95nissanxe195nissanxe1 Member Posts: 2
    Any one have experience on what a good brand of performance exhaust that is quiet at idle and has some decent noise under load for a 2.4? Its been hard to find a brand that does not sound like a tin can on a Honda. Thanks.
  • frank_jfrank_j Member Posts: 1
    hello all, I'm new to the forum & was wondering if anyone knows anything about common problems with the 5 speed trans in my truck its a 1995 xe king cab with a 3.0. trans makes a whining noise when running,whether in or out of gear,moving or setting still any & all advice or help will be appreciated.
    Thanks
    Frank
  • big_n_beefybig_n_beefy Member Posts: 6
    here is an update. I found a broken wire leading from the temp sending unit and bypassed it. Runs great, although I don't understand where the dash temp is getting its info from :confuse: . Hope this helps someone.
  • robfilarobfila Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1995 nissan pickup se. Can someone tell me what the button A-T Power does.Its located next to the cruisr control buton thank you
  • freshcutfrysfreshcutfrys Member Posts: 2
    i have a noise underneath, sounds like shield for exhaust or the dealer spent some time under the truck looking and they said they have had this complaint before and found that it could be loose inside of exhaust. if thats the case, might have to put up with the noise. not worth new exhaust just because of noise. other problem i have is wind noise on drivers door. other than these two things, this truck is wonderful. any suggestions?
  • freshcutfrysfreshcutfrys Member Posts: 2
    couldnt tell ya, but u can download a manual online and read up on it. I even bought a manual for my 2003 just a week ago cause the truck didnt have one when i bought it a month ago
  • colinc1colinc1 Member Posts: 1
    Ok, first I'll confess I jumpstarted this truck with the cables hooked up backwards (ok, I know) and blew the fusible link in the charging circuit, I replaced it with a 30A inline fuse and proceeded to drive it for a couple of weeks culminating with a
    1000 mile trip in one weekend with no problems. then I had it shipped to an island, when I went to the island 2 weeks later the 30a fuse was blown and when I relaced it, it blew right away, when the fuse was blown the windows,horn, turn signals and a few other things didnt work. but the alt light never came on, I drove it about 50 miles and the battery died, I charged the battery and ran tests, the fuses would usually blow after starting, but if I replaced it while running it would last until I turned it off again. the ammeter would sometimes show a high charge (15 v) a voltmeter across the battery showed no change in voltage after starting, a voltmeter across the 'batt' terminal of the alternator and ground while running showed nothing.
    and while the alt light on the dash comes on when the ign is on it goes out when the engine is started, I removed the alt and bought it back with me, I took it to 2 auto parts stores for testing , the first one said it passed the second one said it worked but was only putting out 11 volts. Its not possible for me to try anything else untill I go back to the island, when I do I want to be fully armed! Anyone got a clue?
  • asaasa Member Posts: 359
    Visit http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/ and you can probably download your owner's manual for free. Hope this helps.
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