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Nissan Pickup Owners Hangout



  • I am once again experiencing a problem that i believe that I had experienced about two years (winters) ago. I have a 1990 hardbody that after sitting for about 3 months It failed to start as it usually starts instantly. I discovered feul pressure and spark was being supplied but didn't have time to investigate further as I needed to move it to my new place of residence. I towed it to there where it sat through the winter when my GF went out to move it forgetting that it had a problem. It started right up and ran throughout the summer until now. The truck has sat through a couple of the coldest months this winter on the street. I went out to start it and the same symptoms exist! If anyone has some insight on what this failure may be PLEEEEZ feel free to respond.

    Thanx in advance,

  • So let me git this straight - it wont start when it's cold out - really cold and has sat for a while?

    Maybe you have frozen water in the fuel line - when it warms up above freezing for a couple of days - add some "Heet" and try it - "Heet" is nothing but pure methanol which "chases" the water - actually makes it soluble in the gas. If it starts, burn up the whole tank of gas and [non-permissible content removed] fresh gas with another can of heet
  • byrd2byrd2 Posts: 9

    So I replaced the timing chain on this 1995 Nissan KA24E engine, and made sure it was aligned before I put the cover back on. But it won't start. Turns over just fine. Compression is good and first stroke it's 120, but pumps up to 170-180 PSI on all cylinders. All plugs are firing white spark, and I did have to replace the fuel in the tank, as it soured. Fuel pressure is good at 50 psi. Even with a tooth off, I still should get some sounds of fire, right? So could it be that the injectors need cleaning, since the fuel was old, and turned bad? Or could it be that the MASS Airflow Sensor, or the camshaft position sensor is bad? Or even the ECM is bad. It may be that the injectors are not in time with the spark, which would make sense, as it's gettting plenty of fire, and just sounds like it is not getting any fuel. But I even tried a can of starting fluid to get it to 'pop' and run, so I can finish setting the timing correctly. Can the engine be started in the default or self-diagonsis mode on the ECM? This is the same problem it had before I replaced the timing chain. Over the summer, it started because I moved the distributor slightly. But it had no power, which made me believe the main trouble was a stretched timing chain. As I found out during replacement of the timing chain, parts of the plastic guide were in the oil pan. So it needed to be replaced anyway. But it still won't start up and run. Any ideas out there?

  • ggannggann Posts: 8
    I have 1993 4wd nissan truck with same engine. I too had to replace timming chain guide. To make a long story short, I eventually found that all four of the injector pulses to be too long and the engine would not go over 2700 rpm. No bad codes were on the computor so I disconnected the 0-2 sensor to generate one. That was 16 months ago and the engine has not started since. I never got back to the original problem was and bought a 1996 Ford ranger with 190,000 miles. It starts and runs but is 2 wheel drive. I would love to get the nissan going again so I could give to one of our 11 grandchildren. I just don't trust anyone to fix it without them just replacing every part in the engine sensor area. One local mechanic just had to give up. :cry: Good Luck Grandpa Gary
  • byrd2byrd2 Posts: 9
    Thanks for the info and greetings Grandpa Gary. I guess I may try 2-car for advice, and maybe they would email me how to check the sensors, if they respond. I was able to download the Factory Service Manual for the 1996 Nissan Truck, and it does explain a little bit on how to see if the mass air flow sensor is sending too high, or too low a signal to the ECM. Which that signal is used to adjust the pulse to the fuel injector. If the mass airflow sensor seems to check OK, I may be able to bypass it somehow, or maybe check to see if it is getting hot. That's how the thing works. It senses the amount of current needed to maintain a certain temp of the element, and the more air you have flowing accross it, the more current needed to keep it at the same temp. Maybe it is not sensing any flow at all, as the passage on this one is on the side of the throttle body, and not in the direct path of the air intake piping, like most normal cars are. Hmm, I may have something there. The injectors may also need to be pulled and cleaned, somehow. As it did have the fuel go bad, and smelled a little gumed up. Seems like this engine was not the best one they came out with at all. It doesn't trouble shoot well.

  • mkahlmkahl Posts: 1
    I have a 93 nissan pickup, 4 cyl. fuel injection It runs fantastic except for when I start through the gears, it hesitates, sputters a bit then goes. It seems to do it at the same RPM each time. Less noticable when it is warm but still there. It also loses power when it does this. It will also do the same thing at cruising speed; going along just fine, then start to miss, sputter, lose power then work itself out of it. Compression checks are perfect. Flying colors on emission testing. I've replaced the distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires.....even the distributor itself. It can sit for months and start right up. I've put enough injector cleaner through it to choke a horse. I haven't changed the coil or injectors. Am I missing any componants?? If I can get this fixed, I'd have a really nice little 4x4!!
  • I had a similar problem - tried a lot of things before I got it fixed - changed fuel pump and fuel filters, changed coil, distributor, rotor, plugs, wires, air mass flow sensor, temperature sensor ...... So many things - finally figured it out with the help of a Vietnamese mechanic - the shaft coming off the motor that drives the distributor had to be replaced, it's the whole unit under the distributor cap and rotor. After I got that fixed it is great. While it was doing that, it ruined my transfer case!!!!!

    Probably spent 2 grand before I figured it out.

    Good luck!!
  • Grandpa my [non-permissible content removed] - did you get it fixed???
  • The squeeking is the rubber seal around the drive shaft behind the transfer case. It did it to me for a while when I replaced it - then stopped. What it is , is a rubber doughnut that holds the drive shaft in place and allows it to rotate freely. Usually replaced when the transfer case is removed and replaced.

    I had a mechanic in Nebraska fiz my ehause manifold leak - pretty common with this truck. I paid him about $250 and now with 300 K miles on it - still no leak.
  • ntitan05ntitan05 Posts: 1
    i own a 2005 nissan titan with 58k, ive had stock rotors replaced twice and had each set turned 2 times, once again the rotors have over heated and warped, i do not tow a large trailer and have checked for the calipers hanging up, i like everything about the truck except for the brake issue, if this latest remedy does not repair the issue i will have a 2009 toyota 4 dr 4 whl dr in place of my titan. what ive decided to do is purchase a set of EBC vented and chamfered dimpled drilled rotors along with EBC organic 7000 series greenstuff pads. i hope this work, any comments on this guys. P.S. nissans customer services sucks @#&;$*
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I have a '05 CC Titan. At 300 miles, I changed the pads to ceramics cause I couldn't stand the amount of crud that the stock pads left. I may have stumbled onto something as I have never had a brake issue other than the rear pads going south at 24K miles and the dealer wanting to charge me for a regular maintenance item.
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    I don't own a Titan, but didn't Nissan re-engineer the front brake system in the Titan? As I recall, problems like yours were common, so they worked a TSB. It *may* be NTB04066. It doesn't mean that the fix is warranted, but if it involves new rotors and calipers, you may be able to work the fix at home. Just a thought. Good luck -- I'd be upset too.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    yep. The brake issue is old news.
  • krc01krc01 Posts: 1
    The brakes were fixed via a TSB. My ’05s warped after 1,500 miles, but after the TSB they never warped again, even after towing. In ’08.5 MY, Nissan beefed up the suspension and brakes big time with larger calipers and huge rotors. I haven’t had any problems on my ’09 and the brakes are solid!
  • pat81pat81 Posts: 2
    i have an 03 frontier 3.3 sc 4x4 new calipers pads rotors master cyl. bled the system mushy peddle took it to the nissan dealer they installed both rear wheel cyls.and my peddle is worse now than before i brought it to them they charged me $240.00 bucks and said theres nothing else they can do
  • pat81pat81 Posts: 2
    i think the dealers are really turning to [non-permissible content removed]
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Keep it clean, please.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • colohuntercolohunter Posts: 17
    When you say "my peddle is worse now that before" - can you give a little more detail - be as specific as possible - is it that you push down further to get braking power?

    Sounds to me like it needs another bleeding but tell me more specific details about how it brakes

  • cwo4cwo4 Posts: 90
    I'm the proud owner of a new 2009 Crew Cab SE Frontier. Now I've found out that Nissan will not sell the driving (fog) lights as an accessory. Looking at a Toyota Tacoma, the lights look identical to the ones I saw on the top of the line Frontier. Would Toyota fog lights fit on my Frontier?
  • jgs15jgs15 Posts: 4
    I have a '02 Frontier Desertrunner kingcab. The bed shakes bad on uneven roads. I had the propeller, u-joints, and carrier bearing checked already and was told everything was ok. A mechanic said that this was common with frontiers. Is that true?

    And has someone encountered and been able to solve the problem or at least minimize the shaking/vibration? I'd appreciate any info or suggestions.

  • 101stvet101stvet Posts: 2
    I have an 04 Titan that on some occations will not stop. Put your foot on the brake and the front brakes vibrate, peddle to the floor, nothing. If I turn the key off it will go away. Some times. Brakes have been a major issue with this since day one. Fronts replaced 5 times, rear 3 times, parking brake never worked, and now there is something rattling around between the dust sheild and the rotor. Any suggestions?
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    It's doubtful your Toyota fog lights will fit in your Frontier's bumper. The good news is that your '09 SE is likely pre-wired for fog lights. My '06 is. If you look a foot above the knock-outs where the foglights fit, you'll probably see coiled up pigtailed leads with plugs. My wires are yellow.

    You'll need a fastener kit, the fog lights, buckets and a new stalk with the fog light switch. Try Courtesy Parts

    Cost will probably run you $300 to $350. Be very clear which year you have because Nissan changed up the 2ndGen wiring over the years.
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    Nissan did a complete rework of Titan brakes, upsizing the entire assembly. I'm no Titan expert, but I think a significant number of Titans were upgraded under warranty. You might ask about your truck at your Dealer.

    You might find technical information here that will help your case.

    Nissan Publications

    Click [Inside Publications] then [Nissan TSBs]
  • mtdoramikemtdoramike Posts: 1
    Hi, I recently bought a 2009 Nissan Frontier crew cab with auto transmission. I have about 500 miles on it. It drives great and I love the truck. It's my second Nissan pickup. But, (isn't there always a but) I noticed that when ever I stop the Frontier on a slight hill and then take my foot off the break peddle to apply gas with the gas peddle, I notice the truck will roll back slightly until I start applying the gas. Does this seem normal?? I'm not a young man and have been driving for close to 40 years and I don't recall a vehicle with automatic transmission doing this. I traded in a Chevy Colorado crew cab pickup for the Frontier and I never noticed the Colorado do this on the same slight hills.

    So my question is, is this normal with this truck or does the transmission need to be adjusted. it reminds me of driving a standard transmission vehicle when it does this. My wife has never drove a manual transmission before and I would hate for her to let the truck roll back into a vehicle stopped to close to the back of her.
  • cttoazcttoaz Posts: 9
    Hello everyone. I would like to add an oil pressure gauge to my 1996 Nissan Hardbody with the KA24E 4-cyl engine, and am struggling to find a location that I can plug into? I (maybe falsely) assumed that the oil pressure light on the instrument panel was connected to a standalone pressure sensor unit like the vast majority of vehicles in existence,does anyone know if this is the case? At the Courtesy Nissan website their appears to be an oil pressure sending unit on screen 253 , but it is not clear if it applies to vehicles after 1995.

    Any help or previous experience with installing an oil pressure gauge would be very appreciated! Thank you!!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    is this normal with this truck or does the transmission need to be adjusted

    This is normal and it depends on the grade of the hill. One should never use the transmission to hold the truck on a hill. It also varies from make to make depending on the idle setting and gearing whether a vehicle will hold on a hill or not via the transmission.
  • driller6driller6 Posts: 1
    I'm getting the loud ticking noise also, my pickup is a 96 model also a 4 cyl . Does the same apply as far as replacing the rocker arm? I don't see any way to adjust them at all. thanks for any input
  • colohuntercolohunter Posts: 17
    The V6 has hydrolic lifters! I think the 4 Cylinder does also. Best to try a can of BG 44K and a crankcase flush with one of those chemicals that's supposed to free stuck lifters. Good luck.

    Do you know anything about changing the timing belt on a V6?
  • I'm expecting delivery on a new Frontier LE in early July and would like to add a cold air intake but not sure which one. The dealer is offering to install the Nismo unit , which he said would not affect the warranty since they are installing it but, what I see/read in the forums is usually the K & N or Volant. Is there that much difference in them and will the warranty automatically be voided if they are installed on a new truck?
  • I'm expecting delivery on a new Frontier LE in early July and would like to add a cold air intake but not sure which one. The dealer is offering to install the Nismo unit , which he said would not affect the warranty since they are installing it but, what I see/read in the forums is usually the K & N or Volant. Is there that much difference in them and will the warranty automatically be voided if they are installed on a new truck?
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