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Ford Mustang (2005 and Newer)

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Comments

  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    ... I heard a slight pop from somewhere under the dash...

    Blown fuse.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Blown fuses don't magically start working again.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    No, they don't. But if the circuit takes a different path when the OD is engaged vs. disengaged... Got it? :sick:
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    But then it should happen every time the OD is disengaged. If it only happens intermittently then that would point more to a loose connection or computer problem rather than a blown fuse. Not saying it's impossible - just improbable based on the symptoms.
  • pdxshedevilpdxshedevil Member Posts: 4
    I will let all of you know what Ford has to say as I just dropped the car off, and found out that the car was actually dying and restarting, I never knew an automatic could restart itself while driving down the road. Most of my cars have been OLD POS'S.

    Thanks for your responses.
  • pdxshedevilpdxshedevil Member Posts: 4
    Just picked the car up from Ford and they found nothing wrong with it and no error codes, The only thing that they can figure at this point is that it possibly vapor locked.
  • davestainesdavestaines Member Posts: 2
    Engine Fail Safe Mode comes on periodically. Recently car stalled 3 times - on expressway and local roads. This is dangerous!
    Anyone have the fix/ideas?
    Dave
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    This usually indicates a cooling problem or bad sensor. Is it overheating? If you stop, turn it off and back on is it ok?
  • davestainesdavestaines Member Posts: 2
    IS NOT OVERHEATING - IF A SENSOR, IS IT THE THROTTLE SENSOR - CAN JUST A SENSOR BE REPLACED OR IS IT AN ENTIRE THROTTLE PACKAGE, IF CAR STALLS IT IS EASY TO RE START
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Geez - no need to SHOUT! If you'd read the owner's manual you'd know that fail-safe means the computer thinks the engine is overheating and is trying to prevent permanent damage. This means it's either overheating, in which case the temp builds slowly and takes awhile to return to normal after being shut off - or it's a false reading which usually corrects itself after the engine is turned off and back on.

    Low coolant can cause a super high temp steam pocket which can give a false reading as can a bad temp sensor or wire. A bad thermostat can also do it but they're supposed to fail in the open position so it doesn't cause overheating.
  • spyboy157spyboy157 Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if the 2010 mustang hood will fit on a 2007.I was thinking that I might change hoods because I'm not sure I like the scoop on my GT anymore.It's OK,but I really think the '10 looks alot better.Comments?
  • ltomlinsonltomlinson Member Posts: 9
    have had this piece of junk for year and 4 months . the water coming thru the driverside door. took it to waldorf ford 3 times they told me that i could take the car else where and what they did was to apease me. the car still leaks. took the car back to sheehey in gaithersberg and they have worked on it 3or 4 times now have it back and it still leaks and it is worse holding water also . this pasted time for over a week and gave me a ford 500 to use and when it rained the back passenger door filled with water. have contacted ford they are being no help what so ever. this is my first ford and will be the last . anyone with this problem please dont give up keep hounding them . DONT BUY A FORD they are not quality built like they say they are but they are a piece of JUNK..... :lemon:
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,936
    If a car still under factory warranty cannot be repaired after 3 attempts, it is a lemon. It is a law. Look it up. Contact a lemon law lawyer. No need to keep beating yourself.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    No. There's not a single body panel on the '10 that will fit the '05-'09, except the roof and that's not replaceable.
  • mako1amako1a Member Posts: 1,855
    I like the new Mustangs styling as they resemble the 69-73.

    I liked the 1999-2004 better though.

    Reasons: Not as wide and easier to park. Headrests!

    The new 05 and up seem to have the forward bent headrests that make you sit like you're in an airplane seat and they cannot be removed. Before I buy one I'll have to reverse the headrest or take a hacksaw to it as it is really annoying.

    2013 Mustang GT, 2001 GMC Yukon Denali

  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    The headrest of the '05+ Mustang is removable. Plenty of guys have taken them off and turned them around to face the wrong way. It does take quite some time to find a comfortable position because of them. It takes a combination of seat back and seat bottom tilting to find a semi-sweet spot. It took me a couple of years to find a reasonably acceptable position when I had my '05 GT. I'm not one to "go to bed" when I get in the car, so my normal seat position would have my head cocked forward, leading to neck fatigue after a while; not to mention looking really goofy.

    I had to adjust the seat bottom where the front was up fairly high and the bottom was all the way down then had to slide the seat forward a bit to be able to comfortably shift and work the pedals.
  • spyboy157spyboy157 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the lowdown.I was sorta hoping,but it's not a big deal.
  • ltomlinsonltomlinson Member Posts: 9
    thanks ... i am in the works already ..... wish me luck........
  • ltomlinsonltomlinson Member Posts: 9
    try calling the BBB auto defect department ... they might help..... :lemon:
  • liam5liam5 Member Posts: 1
    06 Mustang sat idle for three days in Dec of 08 and would not start. Jumped off and worked fine and dealer could not find anything wrong. Continued to work fine until June 09 and again sat three days and would not start. Again dealer could not find anyting wrong.

    Dealer has tried for over thirty days to have Ford reply via phone or e mail about engineer checking car out. NO Response.

    I have called five time to Ford and have a case number and twice been promised calls back only one call and they said if dealer cannot locate problem nothing Ford can do about. They did suggest starting the at least every 72 hours (asked if they were joking?).

    Any solutions or know of what maybe draining the battery enough to cause this periodic problem?
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    Well slap my butt and call me Sally! This is the best tasting crow I've ever had!! :D:D:D
  • 06mustanky06mustanky Member Posts: 10
    My 06 gt will run the battery down if you leave it with the key in the switch for more than a day. The service manager said they had that problem at the dealer when they had it there for a different issue. He says the computer won't sleep when the ke is in the switch. Probably not related to your problem but thought it might be useful.
  • eqaliaseqalias Member Posts: 3
    my 2005 V6 did this constantly. Go to a local auto store and borrow their code reader. It's very common for these cars to have bad throttle body sensors. I bought a new one from Autozone for $65 and fixed the problem.
    But that was me, check the engine codes first.

    new muscle cars
  • rvdmadrvdmad Member Posts: 6
    Your problem with starting is not new. Ford would rather that you not know why this happens. Go to your ford dealer and ask for a printed copy of TSB 07-5-13.

    Ford says that After a " Prolonged period" the vehicle will not start. Three days is about how long it takes for a battery to go dead.

    For your information about six other Ford vehicles have this problem.

    One cause is failing to turn off your radio when you park. The ignition does not stop power drain from the radio.
  • acool1938acool1938 Member Posts: 1
    I went to Ford dealer and got there copy of TS 07-5-13 which didn't tell me anything that I didn't know. I did how ever upgrade the battery to a bigger one and let the car set for 7 days with very little drain. So far so good? Another thing you might try is a larger alternator, such as a PA 2158W. I have always shut the radio off, just a habit. Hope this will help you!
  • smaher007smaher007 Member Posts: 14
    Can anyone recommend brake pads that don't squeal? (Or any good ideas how to quiet down the pads) The OEM pads began to squeal at about 15,000 miles. I put Hawk Performance Ceramic pads on the front and then a bit later on the rears, but I am at 36,000 miles now I have not been able to escape the squeal :mad: They are generally quiet when they are cold, but as they warm up, the noise always comes back.
  • bcallahanbcallahan Member Posts: 1
    Twice my dealership has "fixed" my rear window defroster w/o success .Is there something I should tell them to look at so this can be ready for winter ?
  • alex46v8alex46v8 Member Posts: 1
    2010 mustang... Brand new and i have no idea how to open the fuel filler door. I'm thoroughly embarrassed. Can one of you kindly point me in the right direction? Can't find any release handle or button... feel free to haze me but sprinkle in an answer while you're at it please!
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    There is no release or button - you just open it manually (unless they changed it for 2010). If there was a release of some kind it would be in the owner's manual.
  • mitch1947mitch1947 Member Posts: 7
    Push in on the right side of the fuel filler door and it should release and open for you. Don't pry it open. Good luck!
  • sbigginsbiggin Member Posts: 2
    I've been having problem w/ my 06 Mustang and the Ford dealer and a private garage can't figure out what's going on with it. If I come to a stop, either at a light, stop sign etc etc, sometimes my car will not take back off when I press on the gas pedal. Sometimes it will die completely and I have to put it in park and restart the engine and rev it up before I can take off or else it dies again. I had a wrench light come on over a month ago and went to Advance and they said it was my TPS, throttle pedal sensor (?), but i guess they cleared the codes because the Ford dealer couldn't find them. Both the dealership and private mechanic drove it and couldn't get it to "mess up" and the dealership pretty much told me I was crazy. (Hate being a young female taking my car places, ya know?) It is my primary car and I have a 1 yr old and I don't feel safe driving him around in it since it could mess up pulling out into oncoming traffic. Anyone else have experience with this same issue or have suggestions on figuring out what's wrong? Thanks for your advice!
  • fastdogsfastdogs Member Posts: 6
    It sounds alot like my 2005 TPS problem. First they thought it was a fuel pump, so they replaced that. However it got progressively worse and dangerous. It would even stall when slowing down to make a left turn! I would bring it in, but the computer would never give codes. Finally, after 3 years of this, I started getting code lites and thats what it turned out to be. Once they replaced the sensor, it never happened again. Also, performance and gas mileage got better.

    Oh, it only would happen for a short time after filling the tank. It would start at about 7/8th and last for a few hundred miles. Start a log as to when it happens, what you were doing, a note the mileage.
  • fastdogsfastdogs Member Posts: 6
    Sbiggin,
    Look at this post for more details. 2793
  • sbigginsbiggin Member Posts: 2
    Is the TPS something that I can buy at Advance and have installed fairly reasonably or only something the dealer can do? I bought an extended warranty but when I brought it in for the problem before they said it wouldn't be covered and to replace would cost me around $400 out of pocket.
  • fastdogsfastdogs Member Posts: 6
    Mine was covered under the extended warranty. I called first to make sure.
    The dealer also broke the bolt, denied it, and it WASN’T covered.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,308
    next time you get 'the wrench', take it into the dealer. don't have the codes cleared.
    then it will probably be covered.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • glassguyglassguy Member Posts: 3
    Have a good mechanic check your air flow meter. I had same prob with my 2005 GT. My guy tuned it, but said if I had more problems it would have to be replaced. Again I have 4.6 24 valve with a moto blue exhaust. Hope this helps. Also check what gas you use. Water and cloged gas filter will cause same problem.
  • glassguyglassguy Member Posts: 3
    I would like to change my standard GT guages to the premium info guages. Any info would greatly be appreciated. What electronics or nitemares will be required? Thank again for any help.
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  • jmarounjmaroun Member Posts: 151
    I got my 2010 Mustang GT some time in September of 09, and pretty much from day one, there seemed to be an intermittent issue with the trunk latch mechanism.
    About one out of five times, while opening the trunk using key button, I get a weird somewhat loud vibration sound (coming from the trunk latch/solenoid mechanism) instead of a typical single thunk that usually happens when it works correctly. After that vibration happens, the trunk may or may not be still locked. I think there's a 50% chance a second press of the truck release button is required to unlock the trunk. It always works after the second request. Furthermore, about one out of 20 times, after I get the above issue, the trunk wont close since the latch toggle hook mechanism is flipped. This is solved by manually resetting the hook and pressing the trunk release button again and then closing..or something along that procedure.

    I decided that I'd bring it up on my first maintenance service which I did yesterday at 5300 miles. The service rep said that the mechanic/technicion found the trunk to be misaligned with the latch. The trunk was "recentered", and he said the problem was solved. Looking at the trunk, I could see that it was now shifted about an 1/8th to a 1/4 of an inch to the right. Off center. :( I was a bit annoyed, but if it solved the latch problem, I was fine with it. Next day, (this morning), I got the same latch/solenoid vibration and trunk didn't open on first request. :cry:

    I want my rear trunk lid recentered and I want that latch mechanism replaced. It's obviously faulty. Actually, I was told two weeks earlier by someone from Ford that this latch/solenoid mechanism is known to be faulty and has been replaced in later production cars (after the month mine was manufactured). He even scheduled to have the part sent to a local dealer and have it ready for me to pick up. It was my fault for forgetting the name of that dealership. I should have mentioned yesterday to my service rep about this but I didn't because I didn't want to seem pushy. I hoped they would know about the problem or figure it out themselves and order the part on their own. Just goes to show you, the repair you get at a dealership does not guarantee a propper fix.

    I'm annoyed but not upset because service was prompt and they are very polite which I value so much! I don't fault them too much since their solution was kind-of a reasonable fix, given that they probably didn't know about the issue. I was told by someone from Ford that the faulty latch only appears in 2010 Mustangs produced in the first several months. It's been replaced with a redesigned one after that.

    Now, I expect and hope for prompt correction of the issue. I'm reasonably confident I'll be satisfied with their response and I will post what happens as usual.

    By the way, I love the car overall. Especially the engine note and rear wheel spinning torque delivery. Reminds me that 1968 movie "Bullitt". :shades:

    Joseph
    San Diego
  • mitch1947mitch1947 Member Posts: 7
    When using your remote you need to press the trunk release button twice. It won't open if you press the button once. It must be some sort of safety mechanism. It's on page 99 of your Mustang Owner's Guide. I looked it up when my trunk failed to open when only pressed once. Hope this helps. I also have a 2010 GT and love it!

    Mitch
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    considering the recent news of the 2011 powertrains. :confuse: The V6 is finally going to get some competitive HP and a noteworthy engine for 2011 and the 5.0 is finally coming back to the GT. Nobody cares?
  • jmarounjmaroun Member Posts: 151
    cares?? I'm pissed and excited at the same time! I just got my 2010 GT and have invested about $2200 in handling mods. Regardless; if the 5.0 comes out, I don't think I'd be able to resist trading my car in for long. By the way, the next generation 3 series will be comming out shortly after the 5.0. For me, these will be really fun comparing (and test driving :shades: ). And Yes, I do think the current Mustang is comparable to a 3 series in many important respects.

    I don't know how Ford will pull off bringing back a 5.0 in such politicaly charged times regarding the environment. 5L sounds like a whole lot even if only 0.4L more than the current engine. It will be a challenge to their engineering and marketing teams to avoid a negative backlash. I hope they succeed since the 5.0 is a legend.

    I'll be blasting my 4.6L GT in the mean time. :)

    Joseph
    San Diego
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Easy - the 5.0L will get better fuel mileage than the old 4.6L.
  • jmarounjmaroun Member Posts: 151
    Hmmm, 8.5% more fuel but still better fuel mileage. That sounds like a tough cookie to pull unless they bump up to 6-gears. I hope not. I think 5 is plenny. Heck, I'm driving around in 4th all day, and I've got a 3.73 rear gear ratio.

    :shades:

    Joseph
    San Diego
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    It will be 6 speeds for both manual and auto. It's nothing more than giving engineering a common goal (fuel economy) and getting out of their way. The V6 will get 30 mpg highway and a significant bump in city (at least 2 mpg I think) while going from 210 hp to 305 and from ~240 to 263 in torque (approximately). More efficient engines can give you both - power and FE.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,308
    mike rowe walking by line of different ford models.
    i get goosebumps listening to the mustang start up.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    I was on the cusp of adding a 2010 GT to my garage since I miss my '05 GT so much. I'm glad I waited. I was actually wanting to hold out for an IRS, but a 5L V8 w/ 400HP (or more) will suffice. Wonder how long before aftermarket powertrain/drivetrain parts will be available.
  • jmarounjmaroun Member Posts: 151
    good timming! I had to buy when I bought, knowing full well of the likely hood of a 2011 5.0! Too bad Ford doesn't lease, at least not Mustangs. I may have to take a hit and trade up provided the economy doesn't degrade further next year.

    One cool thing about the prospects of 6 gears is that it enables Ford to safely offer a significantly higher rear gear ratio. Imagine a factory 4.75+ option? That sounds enticing. :)

    Joseph
    San Diego
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Who says Ford doesn't lease mustangs?
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