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Looking at the back of the starter, there are 2 large terminals and one small one.
The positive cable connects to one of the large terminals and should have power to it all the time.
The smaller wire should have power when the key is turned to start.
So you need to test those 2 connections with a test light or volt meter and a second person comes in real handy.
I know this goes without saying, but make sure the park brake is set and the vehicle is in park or neutral.
Let us know what you find.
Mom's car: '98 Mitsubishi Galant
August 2007: alternator belt broke and was replaced
October 2007: car has been squealing since new alternator belt was replaced, and the belt has even 'come off' twice. Hmm...
October 2007: New alternator put in
Nov 2007: New battery put in
Nov 2007: mom complained of 'stinky' car but didn't do a good job of explaining the smell, so we thought her car might have been leaking oil.
Nov 2007: battery blew while driving; thank God mom is still alive. more than a handful of fuses were blown as well.
Turns out the voltage regulator wasn't regulating the amount of voltage that was being sent to the battery, and the 'stinky smell' was sulfuric acid as a result of water boiling out of the battery.
Replaced the alternator (thank goodness for Autozone's lifetime warranty) since it failed Autozone's test. Replaced the battery. But now, the car won't start. The engine tries to start but never ignites. It just makes the typical rrruhrrruhrrruh noise but never ignites (had to tell dad to stop trying to start it since it would have run down the new battery). The headlights work, the interior lights work, but this horrible buzzing sound emanates inside the car.
Obviously, when the batter blew it must have caused something within the wiring to short out.
Has anyone had something similar happen or does anyone have any suggestions of what I might try?
Thanks for the help in advance! :confuse:
It's just going to be a painstaking process to go thru and test every electrical device to make sure everything is getting the power it is supposed to get....and then working the way it is supposed to work. This has the potential to be a very expensive problem.
Have you had the battery/alternator checked for free at one of the local autopart chains (pepboys, autozone, etc)
any sugguestions please I have used all the components from the 95 :mad:
When the battery blew, there were half a dozen fuses that were blown, in addition to a few relays. Once the relays and fuses were replaced, the engine started.
The alternator belt slipping off repeatedly was caused by the harmonic balancer becoming worn. That too was replaced. The total cost of having the repairs done was $500 - cheaper than what I had expected.
If you have any questions about the repairs, feel free to post a question. Thanks!
arenee :confuse:
Quite a few things come to mind.
Neutral safety switch.
Starter.
Starter solenoid.
Is there an alarm? Or Passive security system?
Fuse.
First, you need to determine that ALL fuses are good. Including the ones in the engine compartment.
Determine what the battery voltage is and what it is when the key is turned to start.
And if you can get access to it, there is a small wire on the starter solenoid. When the key is turned to start, it should have voltage. Does it? If it does, then the rest of the system is working and the starter solenoid may be the problem.
INFL REST should come on while cranking, then once the engine has started flash 7 to 9 times, then go out. That is the normal operation.
It will NOT prevent the engine from starting, so you have another problem.
The catch is it only does it when it feels like it. I jump it and it starts right away i drive it and turn it off and it starts up again it will do this a few times i can go 1 or 2 weeks and it will be fine then one morning I will go out to start it and it will be dead.
Anyone have any thoughts because I am fresh out.
Once charged, nothing appears to be left on in the car. Local Autozone tested charging system with their machine, said it checked out OK. My charger shows the battery to take a full charge (although it's very very low when the car has gone dead). I'm thinking the battery...but it seems like something may be shorting in the system. Any ideas or things to check?? THANK YOU!!!!
CLEARED THEN 2OR3 DAYS LATER CAR WAS RUNNING JITTERY ON
THE FREEWAY AT CRUISING SPEED PUT INJECTOR CLEANER IN
DROVE FOR THIRD OF TANK STARTED HAVING LACK OF POWER THEN
POWER WOULD KICK BACK IN AND DRIVE FINE. I PARKED , THEN
CAME BACK 2 DAYS LATER CAR FIRED ON 1 OR 2 CLENDERS THEN
DIED CHECKED FOR CODES NO CODES CRANKES BUT WONT START.
FUEL TO RAIL SPARK NEW CAP ROTOR PLUGS USED STARTING FLUID
DOWN THROTTLE BODY NO START, NO CODES WOW I AM AT A LOSS
IS IT THE ECM OR JUST THE CRANK SENSOR OR ONE OF THE OTHER
SENSOR OR A COBO OF SENSORS BUT WHY IS THERE NNO CODES
GIVEN
also we don't know what kind of car this is or the trouble code you got.
Go get another terminal that fits better.