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I will call Toyota today to schedule an appointment with their regional rep. Unfortunately, I'm loosing complete confidence that this issue will get resolved.
LJS
1) The plastic panel between the hood and windshield below the wipers was moving up and down causing a rattle. I remove the panel and insulated the entire underside circumference with self-adhesive rubber weatherstripping so the panel was firm when in place, and the hard plastic didn't come into contact with the metal below it.
2) The wiper motor bracket under the panel was also loose. I tightened it while I had the panel off.
This fixed the "dash rattle". The plastic panel on the new Avalons appear to move around too and could be a possible source of a rattle.
Some 2005 model year Avalon vehicles may experience a small/slow oil drip from the bank 1 VVTi oil supply line on the front of the engine. The oil pipe has been improved to prevent this condition.
Bank 1 is the firewall side of the engine, and the tubes they are talking about move oil to/from the cylinder heads.The fix involves a timing gear cover, some gaskets, and the oil pipe subassembly.
The TSB also notes this problem is covered by the 60k mile powertrain warranty.
If you have an early Av you might want to check with Calif. and find out if your will need the repair.
What a difference in the way the cars handle and steer. The XL almost overboosted steering with negligible road feel, but a bit better on absorbing the bumps and Botts dots at the expense of some more body lean etc. Didn't remember the Ltd. I test drove (along with the Touring I bought) being anyway near this soft and I thought the XL felt a little down on power.
In any case, happier now with my decision to go with the Touring trim - wouldn't buy the XL I just drove - simply too soft and non-communicative
Thank you,
James
http://members.cox.net/n0v8or/console_removal.pdf
http://members.cox.net/n0v8or/nav_controller_mod.pdf
I wonder if anyone in this forum has been bold enough to try this mod, except for the author (n0v8or) himself. A most impressive piece of work, but I certainly don't have the balls to try this.
Anyone else?
Max
I could almost see going through this IF it also allowed you (or a passenger) to use the POI/destination features while the car is moving.
http://money.cnn.com/2006/01/11/Autos/toyota_vs_hyundai.reut/index.htm
I priced similarly equipped Camry, Hyundai, Altima and Accord. Hyundai took their pants off . Not only much less expensive similarly equipped, but the 100,000 warranty is a heck of a deal.
For those who don't think Korean cars measure up to their social image, please remember people felt the same about Japanese cars not that long ago.
Also, as a general rule, most buyers of Japanese cars are "value" buyers - wanting the most bang for the buck -
i.e. many are budget minded- to put it politely.
You only have to look at the comments on this forum to see that perceived "value" is a large part of the incentive to buy Toyota.
So if Hyundai out-values Toyota, many, many of you will go there.
I bought the Hyundai for a family member. I can assure you that it has 16K trouble free miles - which is a lot better than many Avys have done.
Hyundai has also followed Toyota into the generic styling race which seems to appeal to a lot of people.
It appears that we are fast approaching the age where the best maker of cheap but acceptably styled cars with a few toys will be at the top of the - pardon the pun - heaps.
Also, noticed when parking Ltd for 2-3 weeks (this happened to me twice), electronic key will not allow car doors to be unlocked and opened, needed to use mechanical key both times. Could be a problem when parking car @ airport, locking personal items in trunk or glove box and removing mechanical key for security; parking attendant will not be able to start car. Any comments appreiciated...
NWBLIZZARD
He informed me that the little bit of Armour All I applied to clean the dash is the cause of the rattle.
Not the case, I applied it after I first heard it rattling, I figured since it sounded horrible it may as well look clean. Also it's been doing it since that last cold day we had in May 2005 (East Coast), it subsided in the warmer months and is now back with a vengance to drive me nuts.
Anyway the dealer said they won't attempt any "fixes" until the dash has been cleaned...
Just Perfect (Note Sarcasm)
LJS
Not blaming you, just wondering how they explained that...
I told him that explanation was B.S.
I think they are just sick of trying to fix all the rattles and squeaks I've got.
Not to mention that this Limited Avalon has the worst seats I've ever been in. They gave me a 2003 Avalon as a loaner today, and those seats are far superior in comfort than the 05 Avalon Limited. My wife bought me 2 car seat cushions from brookstone to help alleviate my discomfort.
By the way I'm 39 years old, not an old man yet.
LJS
However, I have to comment your blanket statement - "bought the Hyundai for a family member. I can assure you that it has 16K trouble free miles - which is a lot better than many Avys have done."
The reverse could also apply (more likely). Choose any 40K trouble free Toyota and pin it against "pick any Hyundai model you want". Comparing one vehicle against a whole model segment is an argument that just doesn't wash (particularly on the web).
In time maybe Hyundai (and others) will push manufacturers like Toyota to offer better products at a competative price. Everyone wins.
A tire chains, especially the cable chains that are so prone to failure, can be a real hazard on the front of a FWD vehicle.
Your Toyota manual will tell you that it can be dangerous to have an inordinantly higher level of traction on the front versus the rear in adverse roadbed conditions.
Borrow a friends RWD or AWD vehicle if you really intend to drive over the pass in these conditions.
I own a 2001 Hyundai XG300L (50,700K) that has been trouble free, as well as the others in here.
I Previously leased an Avolon. I'm in the market for a new car (back to a lease) and I'm having a real tough time choosing between the Azera limited Ultimate and the Avolon Limited. There are more options in this car than my 1995 lexus LS had and it cost 2 to 4,000 less than the Avolon. Is this a fair comparison? Probably not, but.........
I'm an ex Marine, no one more American and I would love to buy American and almost always do, but As I felt in 1995 and a gentleman stated earlier, What's the most bang for the buck? I worked hard for my money, as most people have, so I have little guilt in my decision making.......TP
Oh yeah.....Lousy resale value at this point, but it served me well!
I am a rattlephobic - I despise them with a passion and I've been surprised many a time to discover that the source of a rattle is not where it sounds like it is coming from.
I've taken dashboards apart looking for rattles and I have found that Toyota dashboards are very well insulated inside, and don't generally rattle. Rattling when cold but not when warm suggests metal expansion and contraction so I would start looking at things that are metal or secured by metal fasteners.
I have found that the bolts that secure the dash to the firewall and the vehicle frame on the sides are sometimes loose. This can cause dash movement and noises as temperatures change. The bolts are located under the dash and in the door frame of the new Avalon and may require tightening. Make sure that the bolts securing the hood hinges are tight and also the bolts securing the fenders. Check the brake lines along the firewall in the engine compartment and make sure that their mounting brackets are tight - also the a/c pipes and heater hoses going through the firewall.
You may have to track it down yourself. I have never had any success with a dealer when it comes to rattles.
Often our community was isolated for days every Winter.
BC Gov't gives excellent road reports and traffic advisories for travellers--often telling them not to travel. In severe conditions the RCMP does road checks to all vehicles entering these routes because snow tires/studs and chains are mandatory.
When chains self destruct en route the damage to a car can be horrific. FWD only seems(debatable)to provide better traction and may not require chains in SOME conditions--RWD with rear engine (ie older Volkswagen) was pretty good (best snow vehicle we ever had!)--4WD is OK but won't get you out of trouble in all conditions particularly heavy wet snow--AWD is about the same as 4WD.
I would only recommend a FWD vehicle in ALL types of snow conditions if it had studded tires. They might do OK in SOME snow conditions, but not all for sure.
We have little snow to drive thru here in Georgia. But anything that lifts the nose of a car or truck is probably bad for safety. Perhaps one of the "cold climate" contributors with this experience could suggest how much ballast (sand) is actually helpful.
I think the oval shape resulting from being cold is difficult to believe is happening.The rings ride along
the cylinder walls and they should take up the uneven areas and allow for a smmoth travel. I can't believe our high rpm engines would allow the pistons to become non concentric at any time. I have found the engine is noisy even after long trips.
I remember the day my avalon arrived. I sat in the car 15 minutes while the salesman finished with his customer ahead of me. I had the engine running and it so quiet that the only way I could tell was by looking at the rpm dial. Now after 8,000 miles there is no need to look at the rpm dial. The noise is louder than other cars I have had. What has changed? I have the dealer doing the oil changes just in case and I coughed for up the 100,000 mile warranty.
ange1
First, the sandbag issue. This info applies to Avalons and any other FWD automobile, but also worth remembering for any car.
A couple of hundred pounds (sand is great--shovel it under wheels for traction if needed!) in the trunk isn't going to raise the front too much, and will give that much more weight to the rear wheels to help them "stick", as in gain a little grip to help reduce skidding in a turn. You are correct--too much weight will do as you suggest, namely raise the front and affect drive wheel traction. It could also aggravate a skid because of an increased moment of lateral inertia in a skidding turn.(Ouch!!) The truly important issue when driving in snow is how varying snow conditions dramatically effect how a car behaves; no matter what tires; where weight is placed; which wheels drive (front back or all at once); you can find yourself in trouble if the wrong snow conditions are present. Shallow, wet, soggy snow is going to hurt, dry crunchy snow is better, black ice is deadly; fresh snow on top of ice is really nasty; really deep and drifting snow will trip you up; and so on. Snow doesn't always hit the ground in the same form, moisture content,temperature, and consistency. One snow driving strategy doesn't fit all conditions--except perhaps this one: "Use common sense and don't overdrive your car's capability." Cut paste this piece into the M&R--"Winter Driving" Forum if you see fit to do so--there's an informative discussion there on this same subject.
Second question--for ANGE; The 'forged pistons' question. They are aluminium, cast,machined, and not forged.
Keep the board informed about the noise and what happens at the dealership. Avalon engines are generally very quiet, as you know. This is interesting.
I paid $29k ... for a Limited
tinydog1 -
I don't understand. Did you buy a Hyundai or an Avalon?
Max
That said, I apologize to the host in advance, and I'll try to answer your question--even tho' you probably already know what might be a proper answer to that question. Your knowledge exceeds mine by a long way.
I would guess that as long as you didn't put excessive weight in the rear of a RWD vehicle, traction would be as good as FWD. My experience doing it has shown that's realistic. I do however, strongly recommend putting the weight directly over the rear wheels if possible, for best results.
My effective way to get out of tough snowy or icey sitution is to drop the air pressure in the tires to about
23-24 lbs in the rear with real wheel drive and likewise in the front, with front wheel drive. Just as soon as you get out of your bad sitution you add back the air. I have a cheap pressure gauge in the glove box to get a better guess as to the pressure I end up with.
The additional flat surface resulting from less pressure gives much better traction. During these stormy and icey conditions you are driving about 10-40 mph range. I have found no ill effects of driving this way from 1-2 miles to 35 miles. It is not safe to drive a high speeds with low tire pressure. ange1
But then, different strokes....
zekeman1
zekeman1