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Comments
Make : TOYOTA Model : AVALON Year : 2005
Manufacturer : TOYOTA MOTOR NORTH AMERICA, INC.
Crash : No Fire : No Number of Injuries: 0
ODI ID Number : 10137603 Number of Deaths: 0
Date of Failure: September 18, 2005
VIN : 4T1BK36B35U...
Component: VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL:ACCELERATOR PEDAL
Summary:
DT: THE THROTTLE STUCK TO THE FLOOR, CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO GO FORWARD QUICKLY. WITH A LOT OF EFFORT THE CONSUMER WAS ABLE TO GET THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL AND SHUT IT OFF. THIS HAPPENED ON SEPTEMBER 18, 2005. WHEN THE CONSUMER TOOK VEHICLE TO THE DEALER FOR REPAIRS THEY TOLD HIM THAT THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE VEHICLE. THEY DID NOTHING TO ALTER THE VEHICLE. THE CONSUMER FELT THAT THE VEHICLE WAS UNSAFE TO DRIVE. *AK
Visit the NHTSA website at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/
enter the ODI number 10137603 to find the complaint and print off a copy of the complaint.
Take a copy of the complaint to the dealer so they know you are not the only one having the problem. If they, or Toyota Corporate don't help then you may want to file a complaint too, also at the above URL.
I have a 2005 Avalon XL: I have a knock under a load every morning for the first 10 minutes. It then gets quiet but is still there.
I had it in the dealers for 3 days. They said they could not hear it.
This is not a gas knock. It is very loud when cold under a slight load until it warms up. It then gets quiet but is still there.
I searched the internet and found several people that have this problem. One said the dealer replaced #4 and #1 bearing on the cam and Toyota knows about this and is sending repair kits to the dealers.
It seems a few out of spec bearings were used during manufacture.
Done all of that, I park in a park and ride lot waiting for the bus and on hot days I sit in Park and idle, same on cold days, and the MPG decreases the longer you idle, just like at a stop light. What I was trying to tell you nicely was that your supposition is wrong it continues to calculate MPG, and at idle in Park or Drive it's recording fuel used and no additional miles driven so the MPG is decreasing.
I can even tell you (not that this would be a surprise) that it decreases more rapidly when you have just filled up and driven few miles than after you have a few hundred and sit idling, it has less miles to calculate against so the MPG degrades faster.
Works the same on my 2003 Avy.
No he didn't realize Javis was making a bad joke in response to Pat's comment about spicing up the topics...lol.
Amazing......
allavalons
I had read about this complaint on the NHTSA and I thought Jayvis was serious. I take it back, strike it from the record.
As you were, gentlemen.
The NHTSA website you reference is fascinating: fact is that by sorting by year/make/model/component you will find the same type of complaint on almost every car manufactured! Included: ES, 530, Accord, Camry, 300, 500, G35, A4,S430 etc. - mostly single complaints just as in the one on the Av. Not to mention multiple other compliants on mostly safety related issues, again for every car made including the Av's worthless brakes, engines, transmissions (at least according to the complainers). Things do happen strangely sometimes in cars these days simply because of all that new technology common to all of them - certainly beyond the understanding of the people that drive them and in some cases, the people that are supposed to be able to fix them. Kind of like those Windows exclamation points accompanied by the infamous 'Windows has encountered a problem and cannot continue'. If we were to take seriously all those complaints (and especially those that appear one time for the 90000 Avs that Toyota has put on the road), we could never buy any car. We could go back to horse and buggies except that I heard that NHTSA has a few complaints on them too.! What we really need is Ralph to abandon his presidential aspirations and come protect us again.
A good friend of mine drives a '65 Mustang every day, big V8 and an absolute deathtrap compared to the cars of today. Weighs about 2600 lbs. so it accelerates well enough if you can control the axle hop, doesn't have anything approaching real brakes, no steering feel, handles almost as well as a Hummer, has no safety systems worth mentioning and is continually leaking something. Wonder how we ever survived?
Point of all this: there are no such things as perfect cars, people do complain sometimes legitimately sometimes not, and today's car, despite how complicated they have become, is 10 times safer, 10 times more reliable and durable, and 10 times costlier.
I agree with you on all counts except for your comment on Windows which REALLY doesn't have anything approaching real brakes, no steering feel, handles almost as well as a Hummer, has no safety systems worth mentioning and is continually leaking something. Of course that is another story and another forum...
guys i still wanna know whats the best tires PSI pressure should be ? i chicked my tires and they were 50psi ! lowered to 40 still theres bump feeling then again lowered to 32 psi bumpy feeling is gone ! but the steering is little firmer now
so i wanna know whats the best psi ! the tires spec says Do not go above 40 psi !
also the steering go to the right very slightly so do i need to tell the dealer about it ? does it needs a new allginments ?
anyhelp would be appreciated !
1. What exactly did you buy (make, model, brand name, part number etc) for an auxillary input device? (hopefully its a non cassette adapter)
2. WHat mode car and year and which type (JBL or Non Jbl) stereo - do you have?
3. As I understand this, you have your input adapter connected to the wires of your tape deck, rendering your useless tape deck, totally useless, correct?
This IS EXACTLY what I want!
I want to hook sirius radio and an aux input to that wasted tape deck space. I own a 2005 Avalon 7 speaker non-jbl radio with a 6 disc changer. I love my disc changer, but I want sirius and and mp3 cabality too. Ive always wanted to rip out the tape deck and install a sirius radio there, and when I want to listen to the radio, I can just hit the 'tape' button on my car and listen to sirius. I dont have an 'AUX' or 'Sat' button on my radio, my Avalon radio didnt come with these options.
It shouldnt be too hard to figure out the wiring for the external cassette. If you remove the cassette, there should be wires connect to it, presumably it would have a. power b. inputs for sound ie left sound, right sound c. live wire (is there a tape connected to the unit) d. wire for controls ei fast forward, reverse, etc e. ground.
I wish I were smart enough and handy enough and technical enough to figure out which wires go where and what colors go with what functions, is there anyone out there that has hacked or can figure out what wires make the tape deck work and how to remove the cassette deck and install a sirius radio and/or an ipod 30gb in that hole?
Please help make this happy avalon owner even happier by letting me enjoy my music and the NFL!
As far as no sense of humor - guess you don't read the majority of my posts or this stuff just shoots right over your head. Humor subjective, of course but I guess you may not understand who Ralph is and what he did to the auto industry, or see anything slightly funny in NHTSA reports on horses!
I guess the only other variable would be that the gallons displayed on the pump is different than the fuel consumption calculated by the vehicle...
Pin........color..........function
=======================
1............-.......shield for audio signal wires
2........white.....right channel signal +
3........black....right channel signal -
4........green....left channel signal +
5........red........left channel signal -
6........white.....mute
9........red........data +
10 .....white.....data -
Other wires (not to radio)
7....white/black....Ground
11....yellow...switched +12V (acc)
12....red......unswitched +12V (battery)
The "data" wires are Toyota proprietary, and probably are used to transfer information about track, side, etc.
Also promise you that a gallon is always precisely 128 ounces, and that a car that is allowed to idle away an entire tank of gas will display 0 mpg, as well as showing no odometer error because you never went anywhere.
If you can't get it from this - heck, don't worry about it - you have a great car that has some power and does remarkably well on a tank of gas. Enjoy it!
if anyone got the way on how to remove the whole rear shelf it would be easier !
somebody help here
For your rattle problem, try reading message #9015. It sounds like this could be the cause of your noise, too. The locations sound the same.
Hope this helps and best wishes.
I spoke with my dealer about removing the rear shelf...don't go there! He showed me the shop manual on steps that had to be taken and it's extremely complex; the potential to screw up some of the electronic connections is too great and you could cause some warranty problems by doing it yourself. Fortunately the need to do it never arose for me.
zekeman1.
so ur sayin my car is one of thoes effected
yes i saw that thread before i post but any tho on how to remove the shelv would be greatly appreciated altho i am going to tell the dealer on first service about it .
Re: first 120odo impression
thanks alot on the tips u gave me but still theres no body posted a way on how to fix it on this forums
nop thats my friend black avvy mine is white
anyway guys thanks aloot on the help here but if i could find any more help about the rattle and drift issue would be appreciated to know the tips on fixin that .
ali
The HP Race Gets Muddied
Changes to SAE Standard J1349, Engine Power Test Code--Spark Ignition and Compression Ignition--Net Power Rating,close off some loopholes and establish something called SAE Certified Hosepower. In the near term, though,this is likely to muddy the the running of the horsepower race.
SAE Certified Horespower is the easier one to explain: It implies that an independent third party is present during the engine's dynamomenter testing and signs off on the results.
The loopholes were fascinating--if a bit arcane. For instance, engines on the dyno don't run their auxiliaries such as power-steering pumps. Instead loss factors are calculated in to cover this. It was thought the previous factor for power-steering pump was too easy on the engine.
Anothe loophole closed: There's the matter, previously left ambiguous, of the tested engine's oil level. By running almost, but not quite, a quart down, there might have been a slight reduction in internal friction--and a tad more power.The revised standard requires oil at the high point of a fill, e.g., at the dipstick's top mark.
Another loophole concerned the octane of the test fuel verses the octane recommended on the fuel-filler door or in the owner's manual. Now, this must match.
Different engines respond differently to these changes in J1349,but generally horsepower reductions of 2-5 percent are typical.
The revised standard was promulgated back in August 2004 and, until the end of last year. was voluntary in automaker bhp assements. From Janurary 1, 2005 though, it was mandatory.
But here is the kicker: If an engine family is unchanged, and if the automaker used the previous J1349, no new bhp certification is necessary. On the other hand some automaker shave opted for recertifying their entire engine lineup.
Hence, at least for model year 2006, there's as much as a 2-5 percent uncertainly in comparing one engine's horsepower with another. This isn't much, of course. However, a previous member of the 500-Bhp Club might now be bench racing at "only" 475 bhp.
This all reminds me of the old days of inflated horsepower ratings when someone suggested bhp stood for "horespower at the brochure".
One of my key reasons for buying the Limited was the 280 horespower. Did Toyota not follow the ASE Standards when they knew a year ahead of time of the pending changes? Why didn't they follow the guidlines or at least be proactive and set the auomaker's standard and be a real leader in the industry?
The 2005 Avalon was in the showrooms in February of 2005. The new standards should have implemented at that time. They did not follow the SAE requirements. Did they have a loophole?
The guidelines stated "if the engine family was unchanged , then thay could use the old data": But the engine is new.
I am very disapointed at Toyota for not being up front with The SAE J1349 regulations.
I am interested in comments from Toyota or anyone who agrees or disagrees. ange1
It took the service department 4 days to realize that the rear shelf was not bolted down properly. After re-securing it, it still rattled so they applied pipe insulation (for lack of a better description) to all metal making contact below the rear shelf. The service manager originally thought it was the wiring that ran thru the roof and had me push up on the roof in the rear seat area to see if that silenced the problem, it did not, but maybe it's another avenue for you to follow.
My Service manager also first told me there was nothing they could do. Make sure you are persistant and tell them you don't want the vehicle back until it's rattle free. THey should give you a loaner car for that period free of charge.
LJS
Is it more important that this machine deliver whatever it is sellling, room, quiet, comfort, refinement, performance, etc. with good value. I think it is so unimportant to some of us what numerical value the hp rating is. If you really wanted to compare numerical value, torque values at a lower RPM would be more real world.
abfisch
All those things that are physical (speed, torque, time, etc) remained the same so they can tell me there are 280 HP or 268 HP or 5 HP......it doesn't change the power when merging onto the highway, the 'KICK' when tromping down to pass, or anything else physical. It's just a changed number due to changing criteria, but whatever they call it, it didn't change the 0 - 60 time one tenth...
I'd worry that anyone concerned with the number or size assigned to the engine when all else remains the same, would probably also be the one bragging or exaggerating about the size of something else...maybe it's a new paradigm.... Horsepower Envy...
Just my $.02
My dashboard squeaks maddly after retrieving my vehicle from the garage all the way home when the outside temperature is below 60*F and the garage is close to 80*
If I push on the das just over the NAV Screen I can duplicate the sound, it seems to be coming from the far right corner (passenger side) where the windshield meets the dash.
Anyone else have a similar issue that seems climate sensitive?
LJS
As you say - why worry - we'll both get there more quickly than we probably need to anyway. I have found the sweet spot of this engine to be between 4-5000 rpm, probably correspondent to torque peak (see abfisch) and can count the number of times the engine has been over 6000 on one hand over 14000 miles.
pg 258 of my 2005 manual - says 87 minimum, 91 or higher for improved performance. Would be interested to know if the 2006 manual reads differently?
PS - Acura just did the same thing with their engines if it makes anybody feel better.The TL used to have 270hp and now it has the same 258 hp!
Laura.
And this apparently is a negotiable item...I was quoted over $1K for the warranty; when I refused, they dropped the price $200...when I again refused, they dropped the price to $795. When I finally put my foot down and told them I didn't want it at all and they were about to completely lose a sale, they backed off and I bought the car.
zekeman1
"Select Octane Rating 87...or higher. For improved vehicle performance, the use of premium unleaded gasoline with an Octane Rating of 91...or higher is recommended."
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From the pix, it looks like the power from the wand has peeled the paint away. That is easily accomplished using a power washer on a deck.
zekeman1