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2005-2007 Toyota Avalon

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Comments

  • riley3riley3 Member Posts: 29
    If your nickel sized chip is in your line of sight I doubt they will try to repair. I got a rock chip on my '05 LTD in June, just below line of sight. It has been barely noticeable but lately I see a couple small crack lines around the repair area. Glass company said I can have windshield replaced with cost of repair credited toward new windshield. My call. No time deadline for doing so. Let us know what you do to fix yours.
    I ordered Cassis Pearl mud guards from anythingtoyota and they came from Texas dealer. Perfect color match and easy to install.
  • joe369joe369 Member Posts: 61
    What tools do you need to install them?
  • gypsy13gypsy13 Member Posts: 28
    I'm not so worried about cold engine start noise as I am about the initial RPM. If the car hasn't been run for a day, it revs to 2,000 rpm immediately on start. I'm concerned about spinning the engine so fast before oil is circulating at full pressure.

    Any thought about that?
  • retired7retired7 Member Posts: 133
    See posting #8280 for protective lens.
  • retired7retired7 Member Posts: 133
    See posting #8290 (last paragraph) for protective lens installation.
  • nimiminimimi Member Posts: 249
    Phillips screwdriver and drill with 1/4" bit.
  • joe369joe369 Member Posts: 61
    Oh no! I don't want to drill the car....would a dealor install them? Also, do body shops do undercoating? I think it will be beneficial during the winter with all the salt and such
  • dajabdajab Member Posts: 35
    Same thing happened in our Cassis Pearl '05 about 6 weeks ago on the I-5 --- a small rock, probably from an empty dump truck ahead on the highway. Our insurance company paid for the entire cost of repair by Safelite (under $100); deductible was waived. In addition, we retain the option of having the windshield replaced if the crack ever widens.

    Results: The chip was the size of a small pea, on the dirver's side and about 10 cm (4") up from the dash. It had 2 cracks radiating horizontally from it about 1 cm long each. After the Safelite fix, the cracks disappeared completely, and the chip became very difficult to see unless you know where it used to be. The repair is nearly as good as the original glass, and we get to keep our original windshield (a plus if you're worried about leaks after replacement).

    All-in-all, if you have to have a rock chip, this is the best way to go. But, the initial event was sickening, especially when we just had gotten the car roof repainted.

    But, that's another sad story...
  • tkaztkaz Member Posts: 69
    No idea how to tighten them. Loose fog lights seemed to be mentioned quite a few times on this reflector. So I just checked to make sure they weren't loose.
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    You will be drilling into plastic, not metal.
    In the rear, you will need to raise the body with a jack, or remove the wheel, for drill access. Being lazy, I elected to use a jack and leave the wheel in place.
  • alan_salan_s Member Posts: 362
    Yesterday I noticed as I was driving that there is some induction noise that I don't think existed before I had the transmission incident.
    Perhaps it was there before, and I never noticed it.
    Could someone help me out please. Could you place your Avalon in Neutral or Park with the radio off and with the engine running, blip the gas pedal. There seems to be a bit of a delay between the time the gas pedal is depressed and the engine responds. During this "lag time", please let me know if:
    1) your car has this lag time and
    2) whether your car makes a pronounced "CH" sound from under the hood immediately after blipping the gas pedal.
    I'd appreciate it.

    Maybe I don't have a problem except becoming hypersensitive, but it would be helpful for me to know whether my car is typical or not!
    Thanks, all.
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    See my post #8971 as to why adding one additional gear ratio can introduce undesirable self-destruct consequences, depending on the transmission design.
  • alan_salan_s Member Posts: 362
    Thanks, n0v8or. Your description sort of sounds like an explaination for the problem I had. I was at very light throttle and I think I accelerated just between downshifts when the transmission "totally lost it". Wanna check out my induction noise for me please? :D
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    Sure . . . I will try to duplicate your test tonight.
  • havalongavalonhavalongavalon Member Posts: 460
    alan_s,

    When you had that surging incident, were you driving in "D" or in "S"?

    havalongavalon
  • jordan7jordan7 Member Posts: 77
    check with Glen Burnie Toyota--i got my LTD for $600 (no prep or document fee) above invoice through United Buyers who in turn sends you to Glen Burnie. Great to deal with.
  • alan_salan_s Member Posts: 362
    havalongavalon: I was in D. I hadn't touched the selector lever, just driving as normal.
    There wasn't really a surge. As I stepped on the gas the tranny shifted into neutral instead of into a lower gear, so the engine rpms shot up to about 5,000rpm before I realized what had happened and pulled over to the side of the road. It was so sudden that I thought that something had broken in the transmission.
    I just hope this doesn't happen again - especially when pulling across or in front of traffic.
    Unfortunately my confidence in this vehicle is eroding.
    If you see my trusty old '02 Avalon anywhere, please tell her to come home, and tell her that this time I'll love her for ever... :cry:
  • jayvisjayvis Member Posts: 76
    There's no need to use a jack or remove the wheels to drill the holes for the rear flaps. Since you'll be drilling into plastic, it's ok to drill at an angle. Just use a smaller drill bit size than specified. The screws will find there way into the oblonged holes. I did it on mine and it worked fine.
  • norcalmike2norcalmike2 Member Posts: 133
    Alan,

    I put my 06 through the procedure you just explained. I warmed my car up in the garage,
    placed it in neutral (parking brake on of course),
    opened the hood and stood outside my open drivers
    door. I blipped the gas pedal like you explained. The "CH" sound you described sounds like a rush of air going through a tube. Kinda sounded like the noise you'd hear if you were pushing alot of air through a large blow dart tube. The engine hesitated slightly then revved up. The noise happened each and every time along with the hesitation. Sounded pretty normal to me. I know the engine revs fast at start up to help obtain the ULEV rating. If what I heard was a rush of air, I'll bet it has something to do with ULEV also.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "rather than a glitch in the electronic control syste..."

    Well, not exactly...

    There have been lots of reports of engine over-reving related to the engine/throttle hesitation symptom.

    Remember what often happens when you try to accelerate in a vehicle with a manual transmission that is in too high of a gear to produce enough torque (via gear reduction) on the output shaft to move the vehicle forward at the desired rate.

    The clutch slips.....

    So the transaxle in question did not necessarily have to be in neutral, only a high enough gear not to be able to produce enough torque to the drive wheels.

    And I think we already know, acknowledge, that part of the engine/throttle hesitation symptom is the result of the ECU upshifting the transaxle just prior to the driver "developing" a need to go quickly from a coastdown circumstance to one of acceleration.

    Before I obtained the 2001 and 2004 Lexus RX300/330 shop manuals and learned what is actually happening I also thought the transaxle was shifting into neutral, rather than simply upshifting, during coastdown situations.
  • tedescm1tedescm1 Member Posts: 309
    It’s interesting to note the Lexus, Toyota and Acura have been having tranny problems for the last 3 or 4 years.

    GM….Buick, and Cadillac have good transmissions and cost about 10k less…go figure.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Even more interesting is the fact that Cadillac started using an over-running clutch in their FWD transaxles quite some number of years ago to completely prevent engine compression braking of the (front) drive wheels.

    I suspect that other upscale GM products such as Buick followed suite.

    Maybe all GM products will now follow Cadillac's current practice of never again building FWD or front torque biased AWD vehicles.

    In advertising the AWD/4WD aspects of the GS300, IS300 and the 4runner, Toyota and Lexus seem to be implicitly acknowledging the circumstances wherein FWD and/or front biased AWD are potentially hazardous.

    All three of these models remove or reduce engine drive torque to the front wheels during stearing manuevers or if the yaw sensor signal indicates loss of directional control is threatened.

    Now if they would just realize that the VSC system could be used to prevent ABS activation unless loss of direction control is threatened I would be a happy man.
  • havalongavalonhavalongavalon Member Posts: 460
    hi wwest,

    You were quick to read and respond to my suggestion of an alternative mechanical fault; but by then I had retracted my message #9957. Thanks for your clear explanation, I agree that this could have happened to alan_s.

    havalongavalon
  • joe369joe369 Member Posts: 61
    I didn't get it when I bought the car. Should I try to get them aftermarket somewhere? I do live in the NE with alot of snow/salt during the winter months.

    Where would I go to get them done?
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    I have a 1994 Maxima that has been through 11 New England winters. I do not see any rust in areas that would have been covered by undercoating. In my opinion, undercoating adds no significant rust protection to modern Japanese cars.
  • alan_salan_s Member Posts: 362
    Thanks norcalmike2, and to everyone else for their helpful comments.
  • zekeman1zekeman1 Member Posts: 422
    I agree...I had a Honda for 3 years while stationed on Guam - heavy salt spray all the time - no problems at all with rust. Think I read somewhere (Consumer Reports?) that undercoating & scotchguard on seats is a waste of money.
    zekeman1
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    Perhaps what you both are hearing is what Toyota calls the Acoustic Control Induction System ("ACIS"). The effective length of the air induction duct is changed as a function of throttle position and engine speed. This technique has been around a long time; I used to own a 96 Nissan with a vacuum actuated valve that did the same thing.

    The valve is open at idle, shortening the effective intake duct length. Supposedly, this dual-length system optimizes engine efficiency over a wider range of operating conditions. As the valve approaches the fully closed position, airflow velocity through it would increase ("whoosh"), then diminish once it has closed. Does that come close to describing the sound you hear?

    The Avalon uses a motor instead of a vacuum diaphram actuator, which might account for the delay. The motor is mounted at the end of the intake manifold that is opposite the intake duct.
  • limiteddriverlimiteddriver Member Posts: 234
    On mine, no hesitation when I bip the throttle and no noise.
  • alan_salan_s Member Posts: 362
    Sounds feasable, thanks.
    I also had a 97 Maxima. As you know, there is no such thing as lag with those VQ engines. Hit the gas and the good old fashioned cable opens the throttle without delay. Even with the new 3.5 VQ with drive by wire, there is no discernable delay. I guess Toyota have some learning to do.
  • limiteddriverlimiteddriver Member Posts: 234
    Thanks for posting this, I had my dealer do the light delay change today. The tech showed me the other changes that could be done, but I left other items alone for now.
  • nimiminimimi Member Posts: 249
    Did/does your dealer charge for this type of thing?
  • captain2captain2 Member Posts: 3,971
    the only real issue I have with my Av is the fact that it is front wheel drive and therefore subject to the same sort of problems that happen when you punch a lot of horsepower thru the same wheels that are also doing the turning. Torque steer or the tendency for any car to pull you further in the direction of the turn can be dangerous if you don't anticipate it, particulary on slippery roads. If you really want to feel it, drive my wife's Altima 3.5, any Maxima, the TL, the new GM Impala SS and GP, Saabs and several others.
    I have a Touring, a little more tightly sprung and therefore, more 'feel' with those front wheels are actually doing - but still difficult to discern any tugging as I feel with my wife's Altima, for example. My point - Toyota is using that 'hesitation' or slippage as a means to minimize what the laws of physics say must happen.
    And using a silly computer to do it. I have yet to hear anybody say anything about mechanical component failures in the Av tranny (see TL) and it may just be too early to tell. As wwest seems to suggest, however, the trans may be working as it is supposed to! VSC not the answer, though - that's even more electronic nannies we don't need!
  • justgreat47justgreat47 Member Posts: 100
    actually it's just the opposite . the intake runners are lengthened during low speed, light thottle application, to facilite the "ram" effect of the longer induction tubes...as the engine reaches higher engine speeds, the shorter runners are better suited for feeding the needed air into the engine.
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    That's what I thought too. But the Avalon tech training manual describes just the opposite.
  • bahraini_zuprabahraini_zupra Member Posts: 98
    hi dude the back shelf rattle came back again after few days :( what i should do is to take the car to the dealer and tell them about the rear struts tower rattle its the only way tho :(

    thanks anyway :sick:
  • gladiator99gladiator99 Member Posts: 104
    Hi Avalon owners!!
    Just thought you might like to see a customized Avalon which was on display at the 2005 SEMA ( specialty equipment market association )show recently held in Las Vegas. Click onto canadiandriver.com and then click on the SEMA report. The Avalon is gorgeous and has a bright Gold paint finish. The grillwork makes it look more like an Audi.
    Cheers
    Gladiator99
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "...even more electronic nannies we don't need!..."

    Have a mouse in your pocket, do you?

    WE....

    I firmly believe the clear majority of the driving population NEEDS every electronic nanny that can be thought up.

    My 2001 Porsche C4 has PSM, Porsche's version of VSC. The nice thing about Porsche's implementation is that it gives the drivers a few milliseconds to react and take the corrective action themselves. On the track last January at Daytona it never activated even once since I was quick to crank int corrective stearing the instant I felt the rear end begin to swing out.

    But I would NEVER want Porsche's version to be implemented on a FWD or front biased AWD vehicle.
  • navguy1navguy1 Member Posts: 181
    What value would be added by showing the velocity of the vehicle when you have the instrument cluster right in front of you?

    As far as seeing the street names just use the control panel to ZOOM IN & OUT. I would recommend browsing the Navigation Quick Guide for a brief tutorial on how to use the navigation system; the navigation owners manual will explain the system more in despth. I am sure there was a learning curve for you portable unit too.

    As far as XM is concerned the current technology never had specifications for more than 10 charachters. At the most only RDS stations offered something that would even come close to filling up the display with information. In the future, with the advent of MP3 ID tag labels, satellite radio (and more recently) IPOD, larger charachter displays will undoubtedly be incorporated into future offerings.

    Lastly I agree with calling Toyota with your comments and suggestions. That is another way they can better understand what is important to users such as ourselves. ;)
  • cms1528cms1528 Member Posts: 45
    Do installation instructions come with the XM or Sirius satellite kit when you buy it from toyota parts department.

    I have seen some 05 install instructions on this site, I guess i am just curious as I am preparing to buy the radio kit in the near future, I just have not decided if I am going to do it myself or pay them...
  • riley3riley3 Member Posts: 29
    When installing the mudguards you'll findat at least two of the holding screws go into existing holes which make for correct placement. I removed one rear wheel but drilled on the other side with wheel in place. No problem. Removing the wheel was a good exercise in finding the lug wrench, etc. It's an easy easy installation. Just follow the instructions.
  • joe369joe369 Member Posts: 61
    Eh, I wouldnt mind removing the wheel but do mind putting it back on since I don't have a torque wrench. Know how much the dealer charges for installing the mudguards? Anyone own a titamnium metallic mudgudrds..how well do they match?
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    I would also show them where you placed the rubber piece that temporarily stopped the rattle. That may help them find it more quickly.

    I no nothing of the customs in your country. Here, it helps to bring a small gift of pastry ("a box of donuts") for the service person to share with the technicians. Perhaps you have some equivalent gesture at your diaposal.
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    I don't hear the noise. Thee is some hesitation but that is to be expected with a servo throttle. It takes time for the actuator to move the throttle plate in response to your command (accelerator pedal). Perhaps you now have an air leak in the induction system. Do you recall anything like a backfire through the intake?
  • alan_salan_s Member Posts: 362
    It's not a backfire. It does sound like pressurized air being briefly sucked or pumped through a pipe (or air leak?) and can be clearly heard from inside the vehicle when the gas pedal is pressed from idle or to invoke kickdown. It's more irritating than anything else. Our Sienna doesn't do this and nor did my '02 Avalon. It is a definite but brief "CH" sound, duration of about half a second. Seems like norcalmike2's Avalon does it too. Well, I guess this is something else I'll run by the dealer. The list is growing... :(
  • zekeman1zekeman1 Member Posts: 422
    Aww c'mon joe369, be adventurous! Just tighten the lug nuts down nice and snug and be done with it. You don't need a torque wrench!! Your wheels aren't going to come off if you don't use one!!! As far as installing mudguards, do you know how to change a light bulb? It's no big deal and takes maybe 5 minutes to install just one of them. But then if you have lots of $$ and would rather not get your hands dirty, run down to your dealer and he'll be happy to lighten your wallet by about $50-100.
    zekeman1
  • norcalmike2norcalmike2 Member Posts: 133
    As I mentioned before, I have learned many things from this forum before and after my purchase which I appreciate very much. Are my fog lights supposed to be loose? I don't know. Does my intake make a whoosh noise and hesitate when I tap my gas pedal hard? Yup. Is my oil filter a marvel in engineering or 1950's technology? I don't know, but it's a wannabe gearhead's dream. All I know is I now glide from point A to point B in great comfort and I have the peace of mind knowing that I have never seen an Avalon broken down on the side of the road. I think it's going to be a great car.
  • avasteravaster Member Posts: 20
    Who hasn't punched it yet. Man I love entering the highway just to punch it. My 06 Avy just picks a spot in the flow and takes it. Somtime I'll be on a back road. All by myself. When the road will staighten and I'll PUNCH IT... 130+. Fells like 60. Go out and clear the cobb webs. Punch it... Punch it good.
  • captain2captain2 Member Posts: 3,971
    OK, for the 'clear' majority of the population you are probably right - but this technology overapplied may be a good part of the problem. It can and will effect a car's performance as well as its reliability. Don't know anybody with an ounce of sense that would contend that BMW, for example, doesn't build a helluva a car - dynamically superior and overengineered to a fault. It is all those control systems that malfunction on a regular basis, are expensive and difficult to repair and have also hurt that mfgrs. reputation. The new Lexus GS now has a accident preparation system, where the car 'senses' an impending collision and will literally take over throttle, brakes, steering, suspension etc. - to the point of even applying the brakes for you, lest you forget. MT in a recent test found the system to limit the car's speed thru a slalom test because the car 'thought' the pylons were an impending accident! If we are to blessed with intrusive systems like this, at least we should be allowed to shut them off. Chrysler's 300 has the same sort of problem, overzealous nannies. Sounds like you may still do some hard driving - and as many of us know - pushing a car to explore its limits can be invigorating. But not likely with all these 'safety' systems looking over our shoulder, keeping in mind that although certainly more reactive these computers may or may not be making the right decision because the car (with a skilled driver) is likely more capable than the computer will allow it to be.
    And, then, you start having incidences of inexplicable occurrences maybe like alans' transmission malfunction. Who knows what happened or why - possibly not anything to do with the trans itself - an electronic glitch, perhaps - BMWs are infested with them.
    There is no question that technology has greatly improved the overall efficiency, reliability, and safety of the cars we drive - but, I seriously wonder if it is going too far?
  • jimxojimxo Member Posts: 423
    What is the best price for a $0.00 deductible plan?

    Thanks
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