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00 dakota 4.7l
for you new 00 dakota owners....since this engine
is the latest and greatest that chrysler has to
offer in the dakotas, i think its time for a board
based on this truck/engine. recently purchased one
myself. 00 dakota slt club cab 4.7l with all the
trimmings. patriot blue. sharp truck but i have my
complaints. what do you new owners think???
is the latest and greatest that chrysler has to
offer in the dakotas, i think its time for a board
based on this truck/engine. recently purchased one
myself. 00 dakota slt club cab 4.7l with all the
trimmings. patriot blue. sharp truck but i have my
complaints. what do you new owners think???
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But swobig, renegade69 and as always bookitty (dang it), are each & together quite correct:
'Over-driving your speed is the pits.' Quote from a well known old (was IndyCars; now IRL) classmate of mine in our younger years.
My sole purpose to any of this is the fact that I have a 'bit' of experience in racing (& a few good driving schools), live in a RARE environment conducive to a little speed now & then and like to distribute whatever info. I garner on this amazing truck from time to time... but I am a corporate officer in a racing org. and play by the rules.
Hey, dittos on the Mont Blanc & sometimes my old Cross standby. And what's that old saying? 'There are old pilots & there are are bold pilots; but there are no old, bold pilots!' Absolutely. O:-)
Actually still am happy with the 4.7L motor.
But I do have one small item here that I'll mention. I think I should have ordered the power seat. The reason for that is sometime's the lumbar suport is a little more than what I would like. With the power seat that's adjustable. It's not with the manual seat's.
One other item is I have not found a lot of after market accessary's for this engine. Partly because it's still pretty new and hopefully that will change in time.
Ok, here's another one I just thought of. It's a safety item that I think I should mention here.
The side post frame's on the front/side window is unusually large. Problem's can come up if you are not careful and take extra time looking for traffic to your right and left. I have had a couple instanses where I pulled out into oncoming traffic.Whew! Scares the bejeebies out of you! The way that the mirror's are mounted don't help either.
That's it for me. Anyone else???
Oh and the 4x4 shifter is too short for me - I have to reach down for it, but that's probably my fault for being 6'2".
Now I grant you I used to do a little racing so I learned how to do it properly, but I don't see it as that much of a skill - unless you want to go through the box at 4,000 rpm in the 4.7 (now that's fun). I guess the prevalence of automatics means the co-ordination of two feet and one hand is becoming a lost art.
Sorry a little off topic.
Other parts of the truck are not as nice. but I reserve my complaints and dealer fixes for another post.
My shifting style varies greatly - usually two distinct styles (one with wife, one without).
In the 'with wife' style I regularly short shift (to increase fuel economy dear) and have never heard a complaint from the transmission.
Now I grant you that 1500 is a little low for this engine which is designed to rev high - max torque and max rpm are both over 4000 but you should still be able to do 3-4 and 4-5 at 2000 or so.
Of course for performance you wouldn't think about it until 3000, but hey who drives fast when you can drive efficiently!!!
What don't you like? Wasn't clear from your post if they were design faults or problems with your particular truck that the dealer is going to have to deal with.
I now have 3,300km (2000+ miles) and expect mpg to increase by about 8,000km (5000 miles). Probably slightly more than 17 by then.
I have found every time that I remove the oil fill cap that there are water droplets inside this cap. Additionally, there is the telltale white film (and odor) that means water/oil mixture coating the inside of the oil fill tube. I use a paper towel to wipe this up every few days but am somewhat concerned about the amount of water that is coming from the crankcase.
I realize that this is the area where the PCV system draws vapors off out of the crankcase so any moisture/condensate in the oil will accumulate here. Since the weather here has been below freezing for some time, perhaps this is normal condensation.
Can others that read this forum please remove their oil-fill caps and see if this is a common (normal) occurrence in the 4.7L? I would be very interested in the results others find.
I am a engineer at DaimlerChrysler for the truck
program and for any one contemplating a purchase of
one then you should know that the 4.7 V8 will run
circles around the 5.2 & 5.9 V-8. Actually the
Dakota R/T with the 5.9 is going to be discontinued
and replaced with the 4.7 because you can buy a
normal dakota with the 4.7 right now and it will
flat out run the 5.9.
I will stop into my dealer here and see what he says.
easymoney: Bet you must have felt like you were in candyland with any of the 60 Dakota's to pick from. Only problem with that is it get's confusing over which one to pick.
Patriot blue must be a real popular color. My oldest boy just ordered a Durango with that color.
I think they do look sharp!
Jim
So he called Chrysler up. They told him this is normal. Other's are doing it also. Although I was the first one to show this to our dealer. Chrysler says it's from the composite material (the filler tube)and it's location in the engine compartment. So with the difference in temperature is giving it the water. They said just to wipe the foam out. The engine is suppose to be ok. If any is ever seen on your dipstick then of course bring it in.
Also the dealer said to keep an eye out for any TSB's whenever you should stop into the dealer.
The mech. thought it could be possable for them to change location of the PCB or change the oil filler tube to someother material.
bpeebles you are in Canada and I am in Iowa. Is there anyone in a warmer climate with a 4.7L Dakota? Check you oil filler tubes and let us know. I'm curious to see if yours might be ok.
Jim
I haven'e noticed this on my Chevy, but that doesn't mean the water droplets aren't condensing somewhere less noticeable. I want some kind of heater for it.
Talked to the Dodge mech. this morning about this myself. He personly recommended to me to change my oil now. I have 2k on my Dakota now. He says they still like to drain them early for any shavings and debree. I would like to switch over to Mobil 1. To which he replied that's all what they put in the Vipers.
Jim
Ed
I too have spent time browsing the DML forums
<<A HREF="http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/www/DAKOTA/archives.html">http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/www/DAKOTA/archives.html> There are numerous mentions of it there.
There is absolutely a build up of condensation in the oil-filler tube on the 4.7L V8 during cold outside temperatures (Perhaps 40DegF and less)
This is caused by condensation within the engine. (ALL internal combustion engines have this phenomena) However, with the 4.7L, the filler-neck is also the 'uptake tube' for the PCV valve. (Positive Crankcase Ventilation)This means that all 'steam' that rises from the crankcase must pass up into the oil-filler tube. The blast of cool air from the radiator fan cools this 'steam' into the goo (oil/water emulsion) we are finding within the oil-filler tube.
I have taken my Dakota to the dealer and the service guy was very curious about this goo. He had NOT seen a 4.7L yet (not even for an oil change) He looked the problem up on the 'satellite' and even called his cousin, the service manager at the local JEEP dealer. (Grand Cherokees have had the 4.7L since 1999 model)
and confirmed it was condensation. He took my name and said he was meeting with DC reps in January and promised to bring it up to them.
Is it a problem?
Perhaps... but bear in mind this is one of the very reasons we CHANGE our oil.
Ref<<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2195/engineoil_bible.html">http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2195/engineoil_bible.html>
All engines have this condensation... it just is not as APPARENT as it is in the 4.7L.
check your tubes/caps!
SURPRISE... The AC compressor is 'enabled' in most of the air-handling-switch positions. There are only 2 positions that DO NOT enable the AC.
Enabling the AC also turns on the electric radiator fan.
IMHO, this is a poor design. When I want to remove ICE from the windshield at -40f, I DO NOT want the AC compressor to be coming on. This has been known to damage the AC compressor at these extremely cold temperatures.
My solution? I have already studied the electrical diagrams for my Dak and plan to make a slight improvement to the design. I want to make the AC on/off a function of a SEPARATE switch. (Just like most foreign automobiles) That way, I can use the defroster without wasting fuel by wearing out my AC compressor or pulling salt-laden spray through the radiator with the electric fan.
The LAST thing I need at -40f is more air through the radiator!! Instead, A COVER is needed to keep that #&%# cold air out of the radiator so the engine can warm up.
I would imagine the wiring from the up front controls decides which modes get A/C. A switch there should do the trick. If you need help looking at a schematic let me know. (I guess I should go buy the shop manual).
1) Exactly as you say about home AC ... the compressor is under the hood which is subjected to the extremely cold temps and can freeze... HOWEVER this one will not 'burn up' as you say. Instead there is a 100+HP gasoline engine to spin it instead of the wimpy electric motor on the home system. I have seen AC hoses BURST because of the pressures they are forced to endure under these conditions. Many automobile AC systems just cease to function after a few winters in Vermont because the AC compressor is running CONSTANTLY. (Any of the 'useful' settings on the DAK run the AC.)
2) I agree in some locals the winters are cold and clammy. Running the AC can condense moisture from the air and help to defrost the windshield. BUT in other locals (Such as Vermont), the winters are cold and VERY DRY. Running the AC compressor is just a waste because the humidity is approaching 0% anyway.
3) WASTE OF FUEL... this is perhaps the biggest reason to not run the AC when it is not needed.(This is both Financially and ecologically irresponsible)
You will make your own decision. The shop manual tells me which wire under the dash to install a switch into. Now all I have to do is find time to get at it. I REFUSE to work outside on ANY car when my fingers are frozen. Besides, the snap-apart designs on todays cars turn into CRACK-apart in cold temperatures;-)
Likes? the 4.7 for acceleration; mileage (17-19 in mixed city/hwy; smooth, carlike feel; nice rack & pinion; comfortable seats (60/30/40); easy entry to the back of the cab for the dog; handling (I dumped the Goodyears for Michelin LTX M/S..they not only turn corners more adroitly, they're better in the goo and snow than Wrangler RTs and probably will half the treadwear of the Goodyears IMO based on comparisons with both in Grand Cherokees; ability to use foglamps without mains on.
Dislikes? 1) Giant down thumb for the AC. I, too, want to be able to select when I want it and will probably have to install a switch. 2) That darn clicking noise. And I wonder if it really is the fuel system solenoid since it goes away when I change the HVAC mode selector to floor only 3) Wimpy front bumper clearance/protection for the radiator/trans. cooler. 4)Fold-down console could be deeper, but that's a nitpicker; 5)What isn't for me is that the pass. seat is supposed to slide forward when you toggle the lever on the back of that seat. It does, but it takes Hulk Hogan to move it, even with fresh grease on the rails, then the latch doesn't "remember" your recline setting when you raise the seatback. 6) BAck to the HVAC system, like many American vehicles, there is no fanless fresh air vent setting. You have to run the fan to ge air moving. Nor is there a recirc. setting. Sitting behind a poorly tuned bigrig or bus can be an exercise in breath control in this Dakota.
bpeebles re several msgs. Is it possible that that clicking noise could be the HVAC coming on/off, as I mentioned above, rather than the fuel system solenoid?
I think the system does recirculate in the Max AC position. I wish there was a better way to switch recirc. in and out when following a noxious vehicle though. Maybe another switch could be added, but I bet it is vacuum controlled. My Nissan has a button for recirc. and a button for A/C...nice.
My child is NOT a muscleman and sliding the Pass. seat forward/backward takes a LOT of strength.
I guess that I am not the ONLY one that finds this annoying. It seems that the 'fur' on the seat has excessive friction between the center 'seat' and the Pass. seat. I thought that the tolerances on my particular Dak were such that the pass. seat 'sticks' when trying to access the rear. I am not alone in this dislike.
As mentioned above, the MAX AC is the recirculate setting.
Another post mentioned a clicking sound that was 'felt' through the steering wheel at idle. I proposed that this is most likely the AC compressor clutch which is NOT rhythmic. The AC compressor clutch kicks in-out at random intervals dependent on several factors such as ambient temperature and system pressure.
Re the pass. seat stickiness: Aha! That's the rub. It is pretty stinky design and quality/focus group testing. I really do believe that not many actual employees drive what they design/test as there are too many "little" things that spoil the good feelings about products. But I wouldn't rally rate this as a little thing. A lot of owners will get pretty haired off by that after a day or two of trying to slide that seat forward. We'll file a warranty bug on that one. Of course, it is us that do all the real testing/debugging anyway.
Off that rant: Here's another nitpick: On my rig, the rear license tag bottom edge rubs against the chrome bumper. A sure place for serious corrosion here near the salt water, or in VT and other places where they use salt on the roads.
I'm going to try inserting some Saran Wrap between the two surfaces and see what gives. If the seat does, then it may be possible to work around this with some of that stickyback Visqueen they use at boatyards and other places to protect carpet while messy things are being done to the rig.
Tnx to both of you for the getbacks. I'll get back re the great SaranWrap caper after the weekend (he said optimistically...we're all on 24-hour call re this bloody Y2whatnot).
Re ticking...do you live in a warm/hot locale?
Now that;s settled (at least here) I can ignore it too.
Agreed, I've spent some awesome holidays in Port Angeles/Townsend, Anacortes, etc.
As a side note, if the transmission problems are really problems why not suggest that the engineers go back and re-create the Torqueflite tranny. It held up under the torque of the 383's, 426 hemi's and 440's. Many times we can learn from the past. An old saying which rings true many times is this...if it ain't broke don't fix it. Could be a bonus for you if they consider your recommendation. Would appreciate your thoughts on the subjects.
I own a 98 Dakota 4x4 with the 5.2L and am planning to replace it with a Dak. Quad cab or F150 4 door this summer. I have not gotten the chance to drive the 4.7L yet and I was curious if anyone has driven Dakotas with both the 4.7L and 5.2L to compare. I have already read the opinions of those that have the 4.7L so I am mainly only interested in direct comparisons of the two.
Things I'm curious about...
4.7L vs 5.2L:
- in fuel mileage.
- in felt power and torque (I know what the numbers say, how about how it feels)
- 2000 4x4 improvements over the 97-99 4x4s (feel of new front suspension and new rack/pinion steering)
To note something else, when posting messages about mileage, some people forget to post if their 4.7L Dakota is 4x4 or 4x2 / manual or automatic. Please include this information since it makes a difference in the mileage.
FYI, my 98 4x4 auto, 31x10.5x15 tires, gets about 14.5 daily which inlcudes my highway only drive to work at about 70mph. More city driving on the weekends brings that down even more. Step it down even once a day and average drops at least 1 mpg. Long trips at about 73mph cruise control gets me 15 - 16 mpg. Driving 55 - 60 brings that up to 17 - 18 mpg.
Thanks in advance to anyone that can compare the 4.7L to the 5.2L with actual experience.
Chad
I can, however comment on the suggestion of "go back to the filler cap in the valve cover".
The valve covers on this engine are magnesium and thus, are very thin to save weight. In fact, the service manual specifically says that NOTHING should touch the valve covers. Even a rubber hose or a wire-loom can, over time, wear right through a valve cover due to vibration. I suspect that the properties of the magnesium led to the moving of the oil-fill and PCV valve away from the valve-covers where these items are commonly found.
Warning, if you loan your truck to someone they will invariably release the hood while trying to get to the brake release; I don't know how strong the second catch is on the hood but I'd bet the hood could blow over the truck at fwy speed if left on the second catch.
I truly believe if the oil-fill-tube is insulated from the cold air blast of the radiator fan, the re-condensation of the 'fumes' from the crankcase would not occur in that area any more.
I have been toying with trying some type of insulation on my oil-fill-tube and have determined that the following characteristics are desirable.
- Heat resistant (Must be able to withstand underhood temperatures)
- NON porous (Must not become soaked if oil is spilled during filling)
- Flexible (This would make it easier to install well)
I have also read about one person that fashioned a sheet metal heat shield directly in front of the oil-fill-tube (between oil-fill and radiator fan) This may be another option. If one were to use several layers of thin aluminum, ( Metal flashing as found in Home Depot) It would meet many of the above criteria. The multiple layers would improve insulating qualities if a slight air-gap were allowed between the layers and RTV Silicone were used to 'seal' the ends. Someone who is creative with metalworking would be able to utilize several of the existing bolts near the oil-fill-tube to attach it.