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Comments
Sorry for the confusion on SACD. I had mentioned in my previous response to you that I had SACD discs. I converted them to dts however and burned them to new discs to play in the M. If you have rip/burn and conversion software it can increase the catalog of music available that will take advantage of the Bose system.
Can you play the music part and then when you park and set the brake it pops up the video on the monitor ?
That is exactly what will happen. If the disc is playing and you put the car in motion, a message indicating that video will resume when car is stopped and parking brake engaged will appear on the information/nav screen. True to the message, put the car in park, engage parking brake and video plays.
SACD Hybrid Multichannel
SACD Pure DSD
SACD Single Layer Multichannel
Wish Beatles One was available in multi channel.
The STS is overall a great leap forward for GM, and it's a pretty damn good car.
It's not an M, and it appeals to a slightly different crowd.
WRT the video DVD's, you can play just the music part, but I don't recall what you have to do to get the video portion. Sorry, but it's been a while, and that's the kind of detail that is left up to Nissan to decide.
B
Commenting wrt dvd-video, you can see the video only if the vehicle is on park gear and the parking brakes are on. I did try it out and it works. But once you move your car, it would stop, only the audio can be heard.
Overall, I found it wallowy, sloppy and bouncy in turns and in general a boat.
When matched to about the same level and dollars-- The Infiniti goes way beyond with huge residual value differences - then add voice recognition, Bluetooth, individual tire pressure, rear view monitor, cooled seats, auto leveling for the headlights, Adaptive Lighting System, Bird View Nav, Lane departure warning, Brake Assist, Mobile Entertainment System, rear power shade and reclining rear seats. I respectfully suggest that is a lot of difference.
NEWS FLASH Best Buy has a pretty good section of DVD V 5.1 --- priced well and a lot more contemporary selection than our web suppliers from ABBA, Rod Stewart and the Bee Gee's to Britanny Spears and many others that I'm too old to recognize. :^)
Im up to 9000 miles on my M45 and love it. No flaws to report and absolutely love it. Great combination of power, handling and luxury. Best car I have ever owned by far.....just a joy to drive.
Road & Track nomination
One vote per computer!
I think we represent a group of informed voters - maybe a bit biased, but in a good way
Question: When I get in the car, I'm programmed as driver number 2. The car seems to revert to the last driver's settings even though I have already pressed the number 2 button. It will only change to my setting after I START the car. But this means my knees are almost all the way into the steering wheel. Any ideas on this.
:confuse:
Yes. I think there are two ways to solve it.
Approach 1:
You can link your intelligent key to a memory position (such as memory 2). Thereafter, if you press the unlock button on your key before you start the car, the seats will go to the linked memory position upon starting the car.
See the sections of the manual on the intelligent key and storing seat positions in memory.
Approach 2:
(Until you get your key configured) You can use the seat adjustment on the side of the seat before starting the car. Sit down first. I'm pretty sure that moving it just a little before you start the car, would prevent it from returning to the last position upon starting. Then, once the car is started you can hit the memory button, to get to your stored positions.
Pete
Sit down in the car, and turn on the POWER without starting the engine. (ie, keep your foot OFF the break, when hit start)
You can now hit the seat memory button, which will work, and then start the engine as usual.
Pete
Turning on power without turning on the engine has the same problem.
Moving the manual seat adjustment a liittle before starting, however, does the job.
Pete
I prefer not running my HVAC system in auto mode. I have the buttons set to gently circulate air, run the AC and use outside air. This is the state of the buttons when I turn off the HVAC. On several occasions, I've noticed that on starting the HVAC (pressing the fan speed button), the air setting is in internal (recirculating) mode. On other occasions, the system starts with the air setting in its last known state, i.e., external mode. I've observed a correlation between the air setting with the start up inside/outside temperature difference. If the two temperatures are close, the system starts in external air mode. If the inside is much warmer, the system starts in internal air mode.
My preference is to always have the HVAC start in external air mode. I could not find any information in the user manual describing/confirming this operation when the HVAC is not set to auto mode. Anyone else also experiencing this behavior? :confuse:
rrob
Unless I'm missing something, in which case I missed it on my FX for 2 years also
Thanks for any and all responses.
I have the M35x with nav and DVD. Original Cds' that I have copied to Windows Media and then to my phone (audiovox smt 5600, which paired easily with the M) shows the song title and artist but doesn't on the car screen with the original disc playing.
Also why is it not possible to see all the track titles on the CD or DVD that is playing. Now all I get is the playing tract number out of so many tracts.
When you copied the files from the original cd to windows media, two things might have happened. One that you explicitly provided the information about the track or Two you have asked the windows media player to download information about the tracks and it would have done so. When you copied those tracks to the phone, the tracks are already having the information. Hence, when you play them, you get the track information displayed. However, the original CD does no contain any information. So when you play the original CD in the car, it does not show any information.
Anyway. Infiniti Financial just set the residual value of my car coming back after a 24 month lease at 73 % of MRSP. By the old math - 13.5 % a year. I haven't heard of anyone doing that recently. You could always call the Series 5 seller and ask him for a 24 month lease - 15,000 miles per year and that you want a 73 % residual. That would be your first clue as to what they thinka 5 is worth.
And this M has so much room than a 5, and a ton of slick goodies.
The M has higher residuals than any other car in this class, including the 5, E and the GS.
Usually it can be corrected with an incredible precise wheel balance.
I don't plan to do anything since I'll be in snows soon anyway.
> approximately as much as a 5 series will over time?
IMHO, not in an hundred years. Two reasons:
1) BMW has a higher standing reputation & prestige than Infiniti by a significant margin and that keeps the price up (not the actual quality which would drive it down). Any recent AutoTrader will confirm that. Heck, the '02 7-series still sell sky high despite coming with a 3-in stack of service records and a questionable look.
2) I owned my M45 for about 2-3 months now, and there' no doubt that the material quality (not the appearance, but the durability) is a bit below my previous BMWs. What I mean by that is that wear-and-tear is more apparent (especially in the years to come naturally) than on a 5, given that the cars are driven in the same condition and equally maintained. Somewhat of an indication is that many 5+-year-old BMWs & MBs on the road (in SoCal) are looking almost new (just like my '99 528 when I sold it for my M45), whereas Japanese cars (Lexus, Infiniti) of the same age tend to show their age. Bottom line, assuming equal maintenance & driving, a 5 will look a bit better.
Now why I didn't buy a 5? Flat-out unreliable and can't get over its exterior design. The M is a blast to drive, good looking, gizmo-loaded (more than the 5), spacious, and should be above-average quality-wise. Oh yeah, and cheaper (but that should be secondary otherwise stay clear from luxury). The M is just a better car. And an M45 won't be intimidated at all by a 550i in terms of performance.
I'm also in NJ. The M35x that we wanted had a somewhat unusual color combination (diamond graphite w wheat interior). The dealer checked the inventory of cars being shipped to the US and found one that matched our color combo and desired options (journey w navigation system). This car was destined for another dealership, but the sales manager was able to negotiate a trade with another of his cars in that inventory, so that car could be delivered to us. We signed a contract to buy with the caveat that if the dealer could not get this car, it would take up to 3 months to get one built that way from the factory. We took delivery of the car about 2 weeks after signing the contract.
> lease it and let Infiniti take the risk
You missed the point. To the question whether an M will hold its value as well as a 5, I answered that I do not believe so and explained why. This is a forum; if you think otherwise, everybody will welcome your opinion. Btw, I do understand the business of leasing: that's why I buy.
Overall the car has been great. Still "learning" all the functions that the car has!
Overall the car has been great. Still "learning" all the functions that the car has!
Congrats! I do not have a sport but I do have an M35X. All wheels todat are clearcoated. You do not want to scratch or etch the clear coat in any way. If you keep you wheels clean, you can use regular car wash and few sponges. I use mother car wash. I like to cut the large sponges into fingers. I get 6-9 per sponge. I use them until they are dirty and rinse them, when they past a point I toss them. If rims are very dirts I use P21S wheel cleaner and the same sponges.
Never Ever:
1. Clean wheels when they are hot
2. Clean wheels with any type of Acid wheel cleaner
3. Use a brush no matter how soft
4. Use a dirty sponge or Cloth
I usually wax my wheels with a hi quality carnuba wax. I use P21S all over the car and wheels.
On my new 35 - I can't get the Home Link to clear the memory- nothing happens at all - and the analog clock buttons do nothing to set the correct time.
I got my phone voice tags programmed, the stereo figured out. The 800 pound gorilla sitting quietly in the corner is the Nav system. I've got a long week end, our gas stations in Western North Carolina are all out of gas - so this is a good time to toss on some steaks and get out the gorilla's owner's manual. If I don't come back, tell the moderators I loved them as best as I could.
As anyone experienced this also and have you adjusted them (hope that it can be done) to a higher level ????? I'm running the highs' way more than should be necessary on back roads. BTW, I have 20:15 vision so that's not the problem here ..........
Yes, that is where my fuse also is no doubt. and to the other gentleman, I also thought my 35 was pretty droopy on the headlights also. Guess I'll check that out. Maybe in Japan, they don't drive much on back country roads at night. Another engineering issue. :^)
Other forums have some pictures and threads covering this (no links allowed here), and many people have adjusted them themselves.
I've raised them myself, and I'm quite happy with them.
If you open the hood, and remove the plastic covers on each side of the engine, (there are clips that release when you pull the covers up) you'll see a large silver cog wheel right up against the headlight casing, on each side. Next to each cog wheel is a hole where you can insert, pointing straight down, a medium to large phillips head screw driver. You'll need to raise both sides, and typically the right side can be a little higher, since it's less prone to blind an oncoming driver. (You're tying to balance your visibility and the effect on other drivers.)
Turning counter clockwise raises the beams. With a magic marker, make a mark on the big cog wheel, and watch it turn (as you watch the headlights raise on a wall about 6 feet away from your car.) Most people need to turn the large cog wheel about 1.25 to 2 full rotations. One person was happy only after 4 complete rotations. Try 1.5 rotations, see how you like it when driving, and go from there.
Note that the high beams go up when the low beams go up, but there's a place with a decent balance. I haven't yet heard of a way to adjust them independently.
Credit goes to Mike_TX, on another forum for most of this info.
Pete
You're very welcome. The fog lights appear to be independent of that adjustment, but I haven't confirmed that.
Pete
It's a damn shame I didn't have this car when I was single! What a looker. And the car is sharp too!
I love starting the car at night and watching the solar eclipse backlights come on and the subsequent needle sweep. When I'm not in the darn thing, I'm staring at it from my window! I'm actually having a hard time concentrating on anything not related to my M. I need earplugs to prevent my gray matter from oozing out out my head!
If you want to talk about this, email me, do not post here. Thanks.
It's touching it. It's a vertical cylindrical hole (missing a vertical strip, along it's full length, on the side), and pointing straight down. If you look directly into it, you'll see a second set of teeth that would be turned by the phillips head. (The second set of teeth are not the teeth that you initially see on the cog wheel, but are actually another part of the cog wheel as well)
Let us know how it goes.
Pete