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This damaged the passenger front tire on our 06 MDX.
Although the tires were still in very new condition, I immediately purchased 2 tires.
One to replace the damaged tire, and another for the other side. (Replaced both fronts @ $260 a pop )
I've expereinced this in the past as well and just know better now.
Especially in a car with good amounts of torque, or in a car like ours, where the AWD system has a mind of it's own, constantly swapping power from tire to tire...ugh.
Putting the new in the back would help, but not much.
The car would just track wrong and now you'll have bogus tire wear in the future.
Sucks, but you did the right thing buying 2 tires.
What can I expect as far as performance, gas mileage, and potential horror stories? A friend of a friend had hydrolock on her car, and she says the car never ran the same after the engine repair (I think they replaced only parts of her engine...guess it wasn't too severe).
Also, if I do have to sell this car, where would hydrolock (post repair/replacement) put the car condition-wise? AVERAGE, ROUGH and DAMAGED list "mechanical problems requiring repair" as a criteria, but the repairs will have already been done. I can't imagine being able to list this car as CLEAN with a clear conscience, though.
Thanks!
Gary
I drove it for a few years and then one day, with 65,000 miles on it, the engine just seized up while cruising down the highway.
I was way over my head with that loan (long story) and was sorta forced into repairing the truck.
$8,500 later, I had a new engine in the truck and it drove SO much better than when I had bought it.
Obviously, there must have been something wrong with it since the day I bought it, but you would never know the truck had major heart surgery... ran awesome.
When I traded it in on our 06 MDX, the sales manager asked if I had been in any accidents or had any major repairs.
I was straight with him and told him the silly thing stopped ticking one day and I had the engine replaced.
He wrote nothing down, made no adjustments to my trade-in number and sent us on our merry way.
The Jeep was on it's way to auction anyway.
I wouldn't worry too much, as long as the work is done by someone you can trust.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Does anyone have any clue as to what is going on? This is driving me crazy! A new car should not be doing this.
Here's my concern too: I paid a lot of $$$ for this Karr Track GPS theft recovery system and if it's going to drain my battery then what's the point? This is the big inconvenience. I just want my car to start. The Acura dealership said they have never dealt with a car that wouldn't start after leaving it for 2 days. Any feedback or ideas would be great. I am at my wit's end.
$445!!! I asked what it includes...they basically said an oil change, tire rotation and a lot of checking of hoses, wires, etc. I'm sorry but I will not spend that kind of money on a car with 25,000 miles on it for std maintenance. It's absurd. I'm going to get just an oil and filter change and leave it at that.
In reality, for the B2 service, you should do (per the manual):
oil & filter change
tire rotation
replace air filter
replace cabin filter
This should cost around $200-250.
You can change the air filter and cabin filter yourself and save some $$. I would recommend doing the 3 x drain & fill for the tranny fluid.
Tranny fluid replace (VTM4)
Brake fluid flush (I highly recommend this)
Oil change
air filter
cabin filter ($80)
all other fluids topped off
"inspection"
tire rotation
wash
All for about $580. Not bad considering it was the 1st time it was in the shop.
I have a 2006 TL. I bought a cabin filter for 13.95 and an air filter for 42.95, both on-line at Auto Warehouse. Changed both myself ( extremely simple to do ). Took car to my mechanic (recommended by AAA) who changed oil, rotated tires, Brake flush, Trans fluid replace, for $145.
Total cost: $202
$25!
Honda mechanics are familiar with the Acura engine; it's a variation on the Accord V-6 engine.
By the way, I go over the book everytime I go in and he says on many items "That doesn't need done. It is a waste of money".
I get that feeling too. It doesn't help that I'm not tall, but I think the TL's got a fairly high belt-line and cowl.
My TL had a rattle on the driver's side door, near the mirror. The area manager discovered through research that it was actually the mirror and had it replaced. No more rattle (knock on wood)...
Also had a tapping sound coming from the pass air vent. When the dealer replaced it, they dented my aluminum trim. Hence the 3rd visit. Now the latest problem is a pixel is dead in the center of my Navi. :mad:
The car, when new, came with this code on a card
If you don't know it, the dealer can help you after getting the serial number off the back of the head unit
I agree. It is a lower-sitting car which is better for driving dynamics, but worse for line of sight and in case of accidents
Best solution I found is to wash the exterior of the windows with plenty of warm soapy water and wipe down the window's molding,(especially on the bottom portion) with a wet rag with the window down. Also, clean the interior window with a warm damp rag. This seems to work.
It may still come and go, but not as often.
Thank you for your input. I will try what you have recommended
If it not, then you have some other mechanical issue.
Do not use WD-40. Must be a silicone or lithium type lubricant.
Thanks for the information. I appreciate it.
Anyone has the similar issue in your TL? I searched all the noise issues in this thread and I didn't find anything similar...
Thanks,
Does anyone have ideas on how to tell how much damage has occured without major servicing? Any ideas on what I might expect next to happen depending upon the damage?
No, I won't count him or his family out of Christmas dinner. Just that when he arrives, he'll be driving his own car over..
Thanks,
Noah
AskNoah@icloud.com