Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Acura TL Maintenance and Repair

1969799101102110

Comments

  • thomaswynnethomaswynne Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 TL (8 yrs old) with 81,000 Miles. How soon should I replace the timing belt? What is a fair price if I have the water pump, drive belts and tensioner replaced?

    If I have been using Mobil One Synthetic oil, how oftenshould I be changing it? (80% of mleage is city, about 800 miles per month).
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    Has anyone tried either the "Michelin Pilot Sport A/S" tires or the "Bridgestone Potenza" tires on their TL?
    Any feedback on these specific tires would be appreciated.
  • lockgiantslockgiants Member Posts: 29
    Hey fellas! So can anyone here give me a few opinions on moving to synthetic oil? I just got my 08 TL in December, and currently have 7k miles on the odometer. I'm thinkin switching to synthetic (Mobile 1 I heard is good??) for my second oil change. Is it worth it? What are the benifits/negatives of moving to synthetic?

    Also, for those of you who change your own oil on your TL's, is there anything out of the ordinary that I would need to change my own oil and oil filter?? Are there any possibilities of leaks when switching to synthetic after 7k miles? Any special tools needed?

    Any advice welcome!
  • herbert11herbert11 Member Posts: 22
    I own a 2006 TL with 25k on the odo. In March the car went to the dealer to have a
    shift interlock switch replaced. In May the battery failed and had to be replaced.
    Tonight while on a busy highway the trunk popped open, It looks like the latch has broken. It will go to the dealer tomorrow.

    I am extremely dissapointed in this car. I owned 3 Buicks prior to this Acura. I put about 400k combined on the 3 cars and had very little trouble.
    I would trade this car for a Lucerne tomorrow if I could get a decent deal. However the best a dealer would offer was $24000 on a list price Buick.
    That translates to about $20000 real trade in-value. So much for this car holding it's value.
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    I switched to Mobile 1 Synthetic on my new 05TL at 5K miles. I change it every 5k and have no leaks. I now have 40k miles on it.
    I bought a used 00TL with 90K miles on it 3 years ago, and switched it to Mobile1 Synthetic at that time. Again, I change it every 5K and have had no leaks.
    I never have to check the oil between changes on either Acura, because they don't burn any oil and read full when I change them. Both engines run flawlessly.

    I used Mobile1 Synthetic on my 2 previously owned Mitsubishi's which I bought new, and ran them both to 200k.
    One I changed the oil every 5k and it burned no oil at 200k nor were there any leaks. I sold the car to a friend (auto mechanic) and it has 225k on it and the engine still runs flawlessly with no leaks and no oil burning.
    The other I changed the oil every 7.5k up to 120k miles and then changed it every 10k thereafter. At 200k it was burning some oil. There was a minor oil seepage under one valve gasket on that car, but I was told by the dealer that it was not uncommon for that engine regardless of type of oil.

    I've had very good experience with Mobile 1 Synthetic, especially when I change it every 5k (which might be a bit of overkill but it works for me) since I like to get at least 200k miles from all my cars.
  • upstatedocupstatedoc Member Posts: 710
    I believe the manual says to not put synthetic in for the first oil change. That being said, I have used Mobil 1 or a good quality synthetic in all of my acuras including my '04 MDX (55k miles) every 5k miles. No problems yet (knock on wood). ;)
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    Well, at least knock on plood! ;)
  • upstatedocupstatedoc Member Posts: 710
    Plood...... :P :cry:
  • mmelonemmelone Member Posts: 6
    I've had my TL Sedan for one week. Other then a suddenly developed Information panel rattle couldn't be happier. When I hit a bump in the road there's an annoying rattle. First I thought it was something in the glove box or storage compartments no luck. I even tried removing the CDs. I know I need to bring back the car for service but any suggestions what it might be? :(
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    hahaha!!
  • aaarghaaargh Member Posts: 230
    There has been an issue in the past with the glove box door. The solution was to insert a piece of felt (or cork will work) so when shut, the door is snug to the box itself. Any hardware store has felt for the bottom of chairs (on wood floors) and it is cheap. Try it out with tape before you adhere the piece to be sure.

    Try thinner felt to begin with so you are not streesing the latch.
  • lockgiantslockgiants Member Posts: 29
    do you change your own oil? if so is there anything special that needs to be done? any special tools to change the oil filter?
  • lockgiantslockgiants Member Posts: 29
    i had my first oil change at 6k miles. so im planning on moving to synthetic for my second oil change. im just trying to figure out if there are any special tools needed for me to be able to change my own oil.
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    Another source of noise from the glove box door is those 2 little plastic "fins" that stick out from the edge of the glove box opening. They rub against the glove box door when it is closed and make a clickity noise. Try lubbing them with a silicon spray every few months.
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    I use the following tools to change my oil in my 05TL.

    1. The proper size oil filter wrench which I got at the Acura dealer's parts Dept.
    2. A torque wrench to re-tighten the oil drain plug to 29 ft/lbs as specified in the owner's manual. (Many people just use a regular wrench).
    3. Rino Ramps to lift the front end of the car to easily reach the filter and drain plug
    4. Oil drain pan.

    Also be sure you get a new "oil drain plug crush washer" with your new oil filter (again the Acura parts dept). The old one you remove will be "crushed" and you should use a new one. This is where the torque wrench helps to reset the proper "crush".
    You will need to reset your maintence minder after the oil change so it reads 100% again. The owner's manual describes exactly how to do this.
  • trailhikertrailhiker Member Posts: 26
    I recently purchased an 08 TL that had numerous rattles. The rattle you described sounds like the center speaker just above the information panel. There is a TSB on this rattle, #07-049 - they put foam around the speaker grill. This rattle makes it sound like there are numerous rattles in the dash and console. You can tap on the top of the dash by the center speaker grill and most likely reproduce this rattle.

    There is also a rattle that is located in the top center of both front doors that is caused by a metal rod that rattles on the plastic retainers. They put foam around it to quiet the rattle.

    There is also another TSB, #06-040 about the glove box door squeaks and rattles but a fix was to have been made in later model TLs that was supposed to have resolved this rattle.

    There is also another TSB (not sure of the number) about the rear panel that rattles. Again they use foam insulation to minimize the rattle.

    Needless to say, my TL has its share of rattles.
  • mmelonemmelone Member Posts: 6
    This situation is sad! This is a great car. When I drive it the damn rattle drives me nuts!!!!!! :mad:
  • trailhikertrailhiker Member Posts: 26
    I had thought the TL was a great car from a good Manufacturer. When I purchased my 08 TL from the dealer McDavid Acura in Plano, Tx is when my problems began. Besides numerous rattles, there was a factory paint defect on the rear quarter panel and the dealer was promptly going to "touch it up" which they did a good but that has been the ONLY good thing about this dealer and getting problems fixed. When they had the car to touchup the paint, they got overspray on my TL from another car they were painting, they used a razor blade scrapper that had a burr on it to remove the overspray from the front windshield and ruined the windshield, had to replace the front windshield. They also returned the car to me covered with the overspray and they told me to wipe the car down with paint remover to get it off (I had the car for only 1 week )! While they were fixing the windshield, they dropped a tool on the center console and dented it which they replaced. Somehow whey they were fixing the rattles, they disconnected something on the SRS system and I started getting error messages that the SRS system failed. I had the dealer tint the windows and all 4 side windows have since scratched and the dealer will not fix it (said it is the way the car is designed and was not intended to have tinted windows but did not tell me that when I bought the car). Now since it has gotten HOT outside, the A/C makes a loud sound like air being let out of a tire and is extremely annoying. The dealer said this is normal. Needless to say I am very unhappy with Acura, the dealer and this has been the worst car experience I have ever had. I have talked to Acura Client Relations for assistance to get repairs of which I have received very little help from them.

    The best thing to do if there are problems on a new TL is to keep after the dealer until they fix the problems. Do not accept the response that it is normal or that is the way the car is designed if you suspect a problem. Most of these problems are well known by the dealers but getting they to repair them, even when you show them a TSB about the problem, can be frustrating.

    This is certainly not the quality or service I expected from Acura being this is my 2nd Acura. My 1st Acura was almost problem free. I am sure other TL owners have not had this much trouble. There has just been a comedy of errors since I purchased the car and has just been a bad overall experience.

    Good luck with your dealer and your repairs.
  • mwaddo10mwaddo10 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2008 TL Base and I'd like to swap the Gas/Brake pedals with the Type-S version. Has anyone out there done this? Can you buy them (or something similar?) Is it easy to do?
  • lockgiantslockgiants Member Posts: 29
    awsome, thanks for the advice!!!

    is it possible for you to also tell me how much you spend on the oil change all together? filter + washer + oil? i
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    1. Filters cost about $7 (Honda original equipment).
    2. Crush washers about $0.75 (cents)
    3. Mobile 1 fully synthetic $30.00 (case of 6 quarts at Costco. . only need 4.5 quarts per change)
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    I just got a "Check Fuel Cap" warning on my 05TL display screen. I checked it, it was not loose. I drove the car, filled the tank and drove it some more, but the warning is still there.

    The owner's manual states that if you tighten the cap and drive over 30mph for 45 seconds this warning should go out It further states that if its not the cap, a malfunction warning will come on to replace it. Well neither happened, the light is still on after 2 trips 55miles and over 60mph speeds. There is also a small "envelope" icon on the various display screens as I scroll through them, presumably indicating a warning message is showing on the main screen.

    Anyone run into this situation??
  • prigglypriggly Member Posts: 642
    Isn't the TL a known rattletrap? That is but one of the factors which kept me from buying one. I hate rattles in cars, especially now when so many cars are entirely rattle-free. There is no excuse for Acura making such rattle-prone vehicles.
  • prigglypriggly Member Posts: 642
    I bought a brand new 1989 Acura Legend from this dealership. It had paint defects on the hood right out the door. I brought it back and they replaced the hood . . . with the wrong hood from another model. Then this had to be replaced. I never went back from this time onwards. I see things have not changed in 18 years at David McDavid.

    Otherwise, the car was lovely and I enjoyed it for the time I had it. Incidentally, the car had NO rattles, was very quiet and an excellent highway cruiser.
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    "...especially now when so many cars are entirely rattle-free."

    Really? I actually find more and more cars are prone to rattles. Even Toyota and Lexus models, previously known for their workmanship, are exhibiting more rattles. And buying upscale brands is also no guarantee against rattles. In fact, some of the more rattle-free cars I have experienced are American brands rental cars, of all things!
  • boloughlinboloughlin Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 Acura TL that has been working great and cooling very well. Last week I was idling for about 1/2 hour with the A/C on and I turned off the car and later that day when I went to start, the A/C appeared to start but didn't cool. Here is what I checked:

    1. When I turn on the system, the condensor fan kicks on and adjustment in the engine rpm is heard.

    2. Checking the pressure on the low when the A/C is on high/cool shows way into the red.

    3. The clutch is not turning the compressor or doesn't appear to be.

    4. none of the hoses are cool.

    5. There is no engaging or disengaging of any kind.

    Thanks in advance for any help.

    Bryan
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    I'd check the condenser fuse to see if it has blown.
  • prigglypriggly Member Posts: 642
    You're right about the American cars being rattle-free. My 2006 Chevy Impala SS, which I bought in place of a TL, is entirely so. And the power of those 303 HP and 323 lb.-ft. of torque, oh, the power . . . it is exhilarating!
  • boloughlinboloughlin Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. I checked all the fuses in the under the hood box and under the dash, is there somewhere else it could be or an area where it could be the relay? I just also noticed that the Subwoofer doesn't work and when I try to turn it on via the NAVI, it stays in the "off" position.

    Any additional help will be most appreciated. Thanks.
  • boloughlinboloughlin Member Posts: 3
    I have an 04 TL with NAVI. I noticed that the subwoofer was not working so when I went to the touchscreen, it was in the "off" position. When I went to turn it on/increase the volume, it doesn't move out of the off position. Is there a fuse or relay set up directly for this? If so where is it? I checked under the dash and under the hood fuse boxes and everything appears to be "ok"

    Thanks...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Does this apply to your car?

    Speaker Test

    The audio unit has a speaker self-diagnostic function. To run the self-diagnostic function, do the following:

    Entering the Self-diagnostic Function

    1. Turn the ignition switch ACC (I).



    2. Press and hold the" Preset 1, Preset 3 and Power" buttons at the same time. NOTE:

    o If the audio unit enters the self-diagnostic mode, the following will occur.
    o Radio tunes to FM 97.9 MHz
    o DIAGNOSTIC (DIAG) is displayed.
    o FM 97.9 MHz is broadcast through the selected speaker.
    o The buttons that operate are Volume Up/Down, Seek +1-, and radio remote switch input for CH +1- and Volume Up/Down.
    o If the audio unit does not enter the self-diagnostic function, turn the ignition switch OFF and repeat step 1 and step 2.



    3. Cycle up or down with the radio remote switch "CH +1-" button or the radio unit "Seek +1-" button and check each speaker.

    o Driver's door speaker and left tweeter
    o Front center speaker
    o Front passenger's door speaker and right tweeter
    o Right rear speaker
    o Subwoofer
    o Left rear speaker
    o All speakers

    4. If any speaker does not sound, check for an open in the wire between the audio unit and its speaker. If the wire harness is OK, replace its speaker.

    Exiting the Self-diagnostic Function
    Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    I meant to type "compressor" fuse, not "condenser" fuse.
    In any event, since you checked all your fuses, that exhausts the ideas I have.
    I had a compressor fuse blow on one of my earlier Acura's by accidentally cycling on and off the AC a bit too fast, multiple times . It resulted in simptoms similar to what you described.
  • charles12charles12 Member Posts: 79
    I have a 2008 TL, starting from 500 miles, rattles come from all part you described (one afer another) -rear, 2 doors, and front center. I sent my car to the dealer a few times and they fixed the rear one (but after 4 months, it seems to me comes back again). They could not get the one from front door fixed.

    I call the Acura co. One person kept saying that the car is designed like this because it is a sport car (what a jok from Acura).

    These rattles make it feel a very cheap car.

    My Leuxs (made in JP) car has no such kind of problem at all. I will not consider Acura in the future.
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    I empathize with what you're saying, especially about the car feeling cheap with all the rattles. Unfortunately, many of the rattles are temperature sensitive, so they tend to come and go with the weather changes. I've never trusted the dealer to be able to fix rattles. Your best bet may be to try to pinpoint the source of the rattle yourself. The good thing (if you can call it good) is, after awhile you learn to tune out the noise! :sick:
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    any owner of a 2004 - 08 TL has installed an after-market alarm system to his TL, on top of the factory system? And if so, which brand, how was the install done, and how well is it working? Thanks in advance.
  • charles12charles12 Member Posts: 79
    what do you mean by tune out the noise? Did you fix the noise by yourself or tell the dealer where the noise comes from?
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    What I meant was after awhile, you condition yourself to mentally ignor the noises. As for fixing the rattles, I find most any such fixes are temporary. Even if successful, they come back eventually. Hence the tuning out part, because after awhile, you just go, "what the heck, it's just a stupid car!"
  • charles12charles12 Member Posts: 79
    Eaxctly, I am now turning on the radio or play CD loundly and think it is an Acura only acura - not Lexus/BMW. Said to myself what do you expect from Acura? I am now classifying the Acura to a lower level car just like Accord.

    Let it go and will never never consider Acura in the future.
  • mikep7mikep7 Member Posts: 7
    was gone on vacation for a few weeks, came back and now my car just dies at red lights, but it also depends on weather or not the a/c is on. After a few seconds at a red light, the RPM will drop really low, where the car will start to shake, and then just shut off, but will turn right back on, but just find it annoyin when it shuts off. anybody had a similar problem and how did you fix it?
  • mikep7mikep7 Member Posts: 7
    mine is having the same problem, how did it go at the dealer?
  • malibu0212malibu0212 Member Posts: 16
    I had a 2001 Malibu and it was pretty good in the past 5 years. However, I've got 3 problems recently: sevice vehicle light is on (temporary no A/C, fuel reading, power door/window after startup); check engine light is on; and the well known coolant leak. There is no cheap fix for either one. I've been on Malibu forum and was surprised to see so many complains.

    Just bought the new 08 TL, now has almost 600 miles. So far, so good. No rattles at all. Given the features and price, I'll definitely consider TL in the future. Been to a Chevy dealer recently (wanna trade the 01 Malibu), checked Impala and Malibu. Both are nice, but the dealer is a joke, asking too much - not much less than a TL. Also, even the top Impala and Malibu lack the refinement TL has.
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    My chime warning that sounds when the car is turned off, the driver's door is opened, and either:

    1. the key is left in the ignition, or
    2. the headlights are left on

    is not working. Does anyone know: 1 where the chime device is and 2. how to replace it??

    It stopped working after I was working on the fusebox to try to obtain a clean 12 volt power source to supply an aftermarket product.

    I have a 2000 TL automatic. All other electrical components work fine.
  • upstatedocupstatedoc Member Posts: 710
    See, this is why I never go poking around in the fuse box, I just end up breaking something. :P
  • elvis4prezelvis4prez Member Posts: 85
    I have an 06 TL. Last summer it started smelling like dirty socks for just a few seconds when starting the car with AC on, moreso after it was sitting for awhile. The dealer told me over the phone to try some Ozium (freshener/bact/fungal killer sprayed into the vent under passenger dash with fan on high and in recirc mode) and that it may be some fungus or something. They COULD work on it and remove the entire dash and all; I was leery of that. It was better over the winter but has returned. I use the Ozium several times/week but it's still there.

    Are there any "easy fixes" other than "tearing it all apart" and such? Anyone with a similar problem?
  • elvis4prezelvis4prez Member Posts: 85
    I've had 2 battery replacements in my 06 TL.
    The first was after coming back from a week vacation and getting a diagnosis of faulty phone monitor or similar electronic gizmo that I cant recall the exact name of right now that stayed on and kept looking for a phone and drained the battery. That was replaced and all was well.

    They replaced the second battery after testing it during a routine oil change and telling me it was bad (before it conked out or left me stranded).
  • vaughn4vaughn4 Member Posts: 106
    I also just had my battery replaced on my 4 month old 08 TL Type-S. Went on vacation for 10 days and when I returned it was totally dead. They attributed it to an internal battery failure? Hmmm... Hope the car isn't draining the battery while just sitting. :confuse:
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    The culprit in earlier years had something to do with the Nav......there was a TSB on it. I had my battery drained a couple of years ago because of that, but no problem since. They installed some part behind the Nav unit under warranty to rectify the problem, and recharged, but not replaced, the battery.
  • greenacuragreenacura Member Posts: 42
    Is anyone else having this same problem: On highway speeds my 2007 TL has a vibration in the steering wheel. The dealer has rotated and balanced all 4 tires, twice & performed a 4 wheel alighment. The car has 27,000 miles and has had this problem for the last 7,000 miles or so. The car has been dealer maintained (oil change & tire rotation and balance (A1 service) as indicated by the car's maint. computer). The dealer now thinks that the rotors might need to be resurfaced but that seems like a long shot to me (there is a slight brake pulsation at highway speeds). Last week I had the dealer's loaner TSX and I couldn't beleive how much smoother is was on the highway. Any advice TL owners?
  • elvis4prezelvis4prez Member Posts: 85
    I think you have done the basics. The dealer is at a loss?

    I do remember hearing that the Bridgestone tires (on base, not nav) have a tendency to "flatten" and vibrate especially after sitting awhile with a vibration that the Michelins (on Nav) do not so much.

    Could it be a tire issue?
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    1. Rotors: If the vibration commences primarily when you start to apply the brakes at highway speeds, then the rotors are a pretty good bet.

    2. Tires: As the previous reply indicated, if you have Bridgestone tires, I'd look at them as a possible source of the problem. My 05TL came with them and I had vibrations from day one until they substantially warmed up. However, they got progressivly better as the tread wore down (less material to flatten). I put on new Michelin Pilot Sports after 40,000 miles and they are smooth as silk. What is puzzling is that you indicate that this problem just began at 20,000 miles which is opposite to the flat spot senario I, and others have experienced, where the vibration lessens as the tires wear.

    3. Service Bulletin: There is a service bulletin on certain TLs where they install a vibration damper under warranty. Check with you dealer on this too, but I haven't heard that this actually is that effective.

    Good luck. Let us know if find the answer.
Sign In or Register to comment.