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If I have been using Mobil One Synthetic oil, how oftenshould I be changing it? (80% of mleage is city, about 800 miles per month).
Any feedback on these specific tires would be appreciated.
Also, for those of you who change your own oil on your TL's, is there anything out of the ordinary that I would need to change my own oil and oil filter?? Are there any possibilities of leaks when switching to synthetic after 7k miles? Any special tools needed?
Any advice welcome!
shift interlock switch replaced. In May the battery failed and had to be replaced.
Tonight while on a busy highway the trunk popped open, It looks like the latch has broken. It will go to the dealer tomorrow.
I am extremely dissapointed in this car. I owned 3 Buicks prior to this Acura. I put about 400k combined on the 3 cars and had very little trouble.
I would trade this car for a Lucerne tomorrow if I could get a decent deal. However the best a dealer would offer was $24000 on a list price Buick.
That translates to about $20000 real trade in-value. So much for this car holding it's value.
I bought a used 00TL with 90K miles on it 3 years ago, and switched it to Mobile1 Synthetic at that time. Again, I change it every 5K and have had no leaks.
I never have to check the oil between changes on either Acura, because they don't burn any oil and read full when I change them. Both engines run flawlessly.
I used Mobile1 Synthetic on my 2 previously owned Mitsubishi's which I bought new, and ran them both to 200k.
One I changed the oil every 5k and it burned no oil at 200k nor were there any leaks. I sold the car to a friend (auto mechanic) and it has 225k on it and the engine still runs flawlessly with no leaks and no oil burning.
The other I changed the oil every 7.5k up to 120k miles and then changed it every 10k thereafter. At 200k it was burning some oil. There was a minor oil seepage under one valve gasket on that car, but I was told by the dealer that it was not uncommon for that engine regardless of type of oil.
I've had very good experience with Mobile 1 Synthetic, especially when I change it every 5k (which might be a bit of overkill but it works for me) since I like to get at least 200k miles from all my cars.
Try thinner felt to begin with so you are not streesing the latch.
1. The proper size oil filter wrench which I got at the Acura dealer's parts Dept.
2. A torque wrench to re-tighten the oil drain plug to 29 ft/lbs as specified in the owner's manual. (Many people just use a regular wrench).
3. Rino Ramps to lift the front end of the car to easily reach the filter and drain plug
4. Oil drain pan.
Also be sure you get a new "oil drain plug crush washer" with your new oil filter (again the Acura parts dept). The old one you remove will be "crushed" and you should use a new one. This is where the torque wrench helps to reset the proper "crush".
You will need to reset your maintence minder after the oil change so it reads 100% again. The owner's manual describes exactly how to do this.
There is also a rattle that is located in the top center of both front doors that is caused by a metal rod that rattles on the plastic retainers. They put foam around it to quiet the rattle.
There is also another TSB, #06-040 about the glove box door squeaks and rattles but a fix was to have been made in later model TLs that was supposed to have resolved this rattle.
There is also another TSB (not sure of the number) about the rear panel that rattles. Again they use foam insulation to minimize the rattle.
Needless to say, my TL has its share of rattles.
The best thing to do if there are problems on a new TL is to keep after the dealer until they fix the problems. Do not accept the response that it is normal or that is the way the car is designed if you suspect a problem. Most of these problems are well known by the dealers but getting they to repair them, even when you show them a TSB about the problem, can be frustrating.
This is certainly not the quality or service I expected from Acura being this is my 2nd Acura. My 1st Acura was almost problem free. I am sure other TL owners have not had this much trouble. There has just been a comedy of errors since I purchased the car and has just been a bad overall experience.
Good luck with your dealer and your repairs.
is it possible for you to also tell me how much you spend on the oil change all together? filter + washer + oil? i
2. Crush washers about $0.75 (cents)
3. Mobile 1 fully synthetic $30.00 (case of 6 quarts at Costco. . only need 4.5 quarts per change)
The owner's manual states that if you tighten the cap and drive over 30mph for 45 seconds this warning should go out It further states that if its not the cap, a malfunction warning will come on to replace it. Well neither happened, the light is still on after 2 trips 55miles and over 60mph speeds. There is also a small "envelope" icon on the various display screens as I scroll through them, presumably indicating a warning message is showing on the main screen.
Anyone run into this situation??
Otherwise, the car was lovely and I enjoyed it for the time I had it. Incidentally, the car had NO rattles, was very quiet and an excellent highway cruiser.
Really? I actually find more and more cars are prone to rattles. Even Toyota and Lexus models, previously known for their workmanship, are exhibiting more rattles. And buying upscale brands is also no guarantee against rattles. In fact, some of the more rattle-free cars I have experienced are American brands rental cars, of all things!
1. When I turn on the system, the condensor fan kicks on and adjustment in the engine rpm is heard.
2. Checking the pressure on the low when the A/C is on high/cool shows way into the red.
3. The clutch is not turning the compressor or doesn't appear to be.
4. none of the hoses are cool.
5. There is no engaging or disengaging of any kind.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Bryan
Any additional help will be most appreciated. Thanks.
Thanks...
Speaker Test
The audio unit has a speaker self-diagnostic function. To run the self-diagnostic function, do the following:
Entering the Self-diagnostic Function
1. Turn the ignition switch ACC (I).
2. Press and hold the" Preset 1, Preset 3 and Power" buttons at the same time. NOTE:
o If the audio unit enters the self-diagnostic mode, the following will occur.
o Radio tunes to FM 97.9 MHz
o DIAGNOSTIC (DIAG) is displayed.
o FM 97.9 MHz is broadcast through the selected speaker.
o The buttons that operate are Volume Up/Down, Seek +1-, and radio remote switch input for CH +1- and Volume Up/Down.
o If the audio unit does not enter the self-diagnostic function, turn the ignition switch OFF and repeat step 1 and step 2.
3. Cycle up or down with the radio remote switch "CH +1-" button or the radio unit "Seek +1-" button and check each speaker.
o Driver's door speaker and left tweeter
o Front center speaker
o Front passenger's door speaker and right tweeter
o Right rear speaker
o Subwoofer
o Left rear speaker
o All speakers
4. If any speaker does not sound, check for an open in the wire between the audio unit and its speaker. If the wire harness is OK, replace its speaker.
Exiting the Self-diagnostic Function
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
In any event, since you checked all your fuses, that exhausts the ideas I have.
I had a compressor fuse blow on one of my earlier Acura's by accidentally cycling on and off the AC a bit too fast, multiple times . It resulted in simptoms similar to what you described.
I call the Acura co. One person kept saying that the car is designed like this because it is a sport car (what a jok from Acura).
These rattles make it feel a very cheap car.
My Leuxs (made in JP) car has no such kind of problem at all. I will not consider Acura in the future.
Let it go and will never never consider Acura in the future.
Just bought the new 08 TL, now has almost 600 miles. So far, so good. No rattles at all. Given the features and price, I'll definitely consider TL in the future. Been to a Chevy dealer recently (wanna trade the 01 Malibu), checked Impala and Malibu. Both are nice, but the dealer is a joke, asking too much - not much less than a TL. Also, even the top Impala and Malibu lack the refinement TL has.
1. the key is left in the ignition, or
2. the headlights are left on
is not working. Does anyone know: 1 where the chime device is and 2. how to replace it??
It stopped working after I was working on the fusebox to try to obtain a clean 12 volt power source to supply an aftermarket product.
I have a 2000 TL automatic. All other electrical components work fine.
Are there any "easy fixes" other than "tearing it all apart" and such? Anyone with a similar problem?
The first was after coming back from a week vacation and getting a diagnosis of faulty phone monitor or similar electronic gizmo that I cant recall the exact name of right now that stayed on and kept looking for a phone and drained the battery. That was replaced and all was well.
They replaced the second battery after testing it during a routine oil change and telling me it was bad (before it conked out or left me stranded).
I do remember hearing that the Bridgestone tires (on base, not nav) have a tendency to "flatten" and vibrate especially after sitting awhile with a vibration that the Michelins (on Nav) do not so much.
Could it be a tire issue?
2. Tires: As the previous reply indicated, if you have Bridgestone tires, I'd look at them as a possible source of the problem. My 05TL came with them and I had vibrations from day one until they substantially warmed up. However, they got progressivly better as the tread wore down (less material to flatten). I put on new Michelin Pilot Sports after 40,000 miles and they are smooth as silk. What is puzzling is that you indicate that this problem just began at 20,000 miles which is opposite to the flat spot senario I, and others have experienced, where the vibration lessens as the tires wear.
3. Service Bulletin: There is a service bulletin on certain TLs where they install a vibration damper under warranty. Check with you dealer on this too, but I haven't heard that this actually is that effective.
Good luck. Let us know if find the answer.