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If you can adjust it up/down and side to side using the adjusting switch, then you know the motor and its gears work. Then, be sure to leave the mirror switched to the passenger mirror and try backing again. If that doesn't work take it to your dealer.
Is it safe to get a 05 Acura TL, but with 140000+ miles?
If the center position is selected neither mirror will rotate. That is the off position.
my e mail: selig1@ix.netcom.com
I wanted to start this post so that 2005 owners can inform each other what parts of their cars are starting to require replacement or repair. This way, all 2005 owners will know what they need to fix/replace before it breaks.
- Alternator
- Starter
- Transmission
- Suspension
As for other parts, here is the maintenance schedule that I go by
It's a bit more preventive than what is in the manual
Fuel Induction every 15,000 miles-30,000 miles or 1 year - DEALER ONLY
Fuel Induction tx requires a special machine ONLY AT DEALER
Fuel induction uses BG 44 (stronger than CF5)
Fuel Injection tx is just a bottle of BG CF5 into gas tank every 7,500 miles
http://ezinearticles.com/?Car-Repair-Prices:-Fuel-Injection-Services,-Are-They-W- - - orth-It?&id=300855
BG Frigi Clean - kills mold, $40 - do Annually
bottle comes with hose and screws
injected thru AC exhaust
dealer wants $120
you can do it for $30 labor and $40 bottle with independent mechanic
you can buy the Frigi Clean set at Honda/Acura
make sure mechanic gives it 20 mins to dry out the foam
do the FrigiClean before you add new internal cabin air filter so that your old filter can collect the mess
Radiator Flush every 20,000-25,000 if lots of stop and go or every 2 years
- 2 bottle of coolant (antifreeze) + BG kit
Power Steering Flush - every 25,000 - 30,000 (3 bottles) or every 2 years
Transmission Flush - every 30,000 or every 2 years - DEALER ONLY
- 15 quarts + BG additive
- or 4 quarts if drain and fill only
Air Filter and Internal Cabin Filter every 12,000-15,000 miles or once/twice per year (depends on your environment and driving)
Spark plugs - every 50,000 miles for regular plugs, or every 60,000 - 100,000 with Iridium or Double Platinum (labor $200, plugs $200) - Independent Mechanic will not allow you to buy plugs and bring it to their shop b/c of liability
Car Battery - every 3-7 years, check readings at each oil change, most places would say on average 3 years is best
Alternator - every 5-7 years
Starter - every 7-10 years
Wiper Blades - annually
Timing Belt - every 100,000 miles or 7 years, may want to replace water pump when you replace the belt - best to do with Dealer for peace of mind
Brakes - every 40,000 miles, will need new ceramic brake pads from Acura
best to buy new rotors (3rd party ok) instead of resurfacing the rotors
ideally to get new rotors at each brake change but ok if you pass 40,000 and do it at 80,000 miles
Brake Flush - every 30,000 or when brakes are being done - DEALER ONLY
Suspension - dependent on driving conditions
PCV Valve - at 30,60, and 90,000, $140, helps engine to breathe
rotate tires every 6,000 miles
No flush of anything, not even antifreeze. It still got 30 MPG in 90 MPH vacation trips.
It seems to me you spent a lot of unnecessary money.
The average vehicle these days is built to go around 100,000 miles with only regular oil changes and the occasional service on wear items, like tires and brake pads. I've put over 200,000 miles on each of my last 3 cars basically changing the synthetic oil every 5,000 miles and replacing the wear items (including a battery every 5 years).
Again, I commend you on your rigorous attention to your vehicle but I'd watch putting in any additives or cleaners not specifically recommended by the manufacturer, as they can change performance characteristics of existing fluids and affect seals. Just because a dealer provides the additive doesn't change this. It's these additives and cleaners where the dealer makes the bucks .
I can say that if I'd ever needed to buy a used car, I'd buy yours.
http://www.in.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/SB/B08-057.pdf
The second one prompted more testing and replacement of HFL as mentioned in the link.
Unfortunately, I've had other battery failures for no good reason.
the engine is cold. It quickly goes away as the engine warms up.
Is this anything to be concerned about?
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Any dealer that allows any vehicle to leave its shop without finding where the fluid is going doesn't deserve to be repairing cars in my opinion.
I have a very hard time believing this to be true. Can someone please confirm this? Or is this just wrong information like I suspect?
You will be amazed at the speed of the response.
Most of time, I feel a harsh/rough ride from vibrations/shimmy through the steering wheel and peddles
BUT, sometimes (after work), the ride is perfect (very smooth).
I don't know if the tempertaure is related.
After work (about 0230pm ), the weather is hotter in LA.
I do not know if this is caused from tires or others.
I took my car to dealer couple times and they said my car is normal compared to others.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Yes, I go to work at 0550AM:
The ride is rough all the way to work about 10 miles.
When I go home 0230PM, sometimes the ride is roght and sometimes smooth.
When the ride is smooth, acceleration is better (sensitive).
When the ride is rough, acceleration is worse.
I took my car to dealer couple times, and they could not find anything wrong.
So confused and frustrated.
Any ideas?
Thanks
If it is a tire issue, how should I deal with it?
Can I use warranty to replace it or do anything else?
Thanks
If it is really bad and shocks or something are involved that is beyond my expertise.
I would have someone else that knows cars drive the car first thing in the morning and get thier input if you can find someone to get up that early.
Had my front tires checked yesterday.
The balance is fine.
They put more pressure to my tire and it seems driving better.
Before: 32 PSI (Colde)
Now : 34 PSI (Code)
What are your tire (cold) pressure that runs well?
Regards,
Thank you.
The dealership is a little out of the way - would probably change myself, but don't have a place to dispose the oil.
The MPG really varies. One thing about this car is you have to stay after the tire inflation. If i am not at 32psi all the way around not only can I feel it, but I see it in the mpg.
Pure Highway driving 80-90 mph 30+mpg
Mixture 22
City 18
I use the 89 grade gas..The service manager at the dealership I bought told me that is all the car needs. Used 87 and mileage went way down. Used High octane for a month and no difference. So I stick with the 89. Can't go wrong when the man whose supposed to know everything about your car tells you to do it. They did strongly advocate not to use the 87 octane!
I remember 20 years ago when I got my first Acura that A&H Motorsport in Pennsylvania had OEM parts at great discounts but now it seems like they are out of the parts business and more into service.
I just recently got an '09 TL AWD. Looking for air filter, cabin filter, all weather floor mats, etc.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp
I would recommend this business for "Exact Fit" floormats:
http://www.weathertech.com/
I purchased their "Digital Fit" all weather floor mats for my 08 TL for both front and rear that fit like glove. They have Gray, Tan and Black. Acura did not have Gray and I wanted Gray to more closely match the interior and I saw their AD in a auto magazine and found they had very good reviews.