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Acura TL Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I wouuldn't replace it until it is causing noticeable problems---probably you'd start noticing some movement in the gear lever or clunking during shifting. What you might do is have them point out the crack so that you can keep an eye on it. If it is actually *broken* in half already, then yeah, have it done.
  • rvator4rvator4 Member Posts: 84
    I agree with Mr. Shiftright. Get a look at the "slight crack". It may never separate. It may not even be a crack. There are also ways to repair castings. Have a friend that is an engineer take a look at it. I would also make sure that there isn't a broken motor mount or transmission mount elsewhere that is overloading that mount.
  • dmstoverdmstover Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 TL and I had to replace the starter at 59000 miles. I find this highly unusual with an Acura. Any thoughts?
  • dzmouloudiamcodzmouloudiamco Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    Transmission problem
    2003 Acura TL 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 180000 miles

    I have a 2003 Acura TL-S the car runs great with a perfect engine
    Last april i took the car to Acura for servicing and i was told that there was a recall on transmission, something has to to with the 2nd gear and they put some kind of inject on it.
    Anyway, last night while i was trying to park i did a reverse and than a D5 and the car wont move, it did eventually move, but it took its time, when ever i turned the car on and off, the transmission works perfectly.
    In other words, when i start the car , the car works perfectly, but if i drive it for a mile or two and try to park, do a reverse and a d5, i start giving me problems other than that no problems.
    NB: note that , if i turn the car off and on, the issue is gone

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    edited September 2010
    Had a similar 2nd gear recall service done on my 2000 TL with 93,000 miles (had no problems previously). Within a few months the whole transmission failed completely. Had to have it towed and the transmission replaced.

    Your symptoms sound a bit different, however, since it fixes the problem itself when you restart. Can only suggest you return it to the servicing dealer to check for an electrical switching/ solenoid problem . Maybe they will be able to squeeze the fix under the previous recall work order if it's a simple one.

    Would definitely recommend you not put it off however
  • whittonmwhittonm Member Posts: 30
    My 2006 Acura Bluetooth started failing after 4 years. I tried cycling the unit by pulling fuses, but it did not fix the problem. A new Bluetooth module costs $650. My fix was to buy a $65 complete overhead console used on Ebay for a 2004 TL. I then removed the Bluetooth module from the used part. I then removed the center section of the overhead console on my car by levering it out with some thin screwdrivers. This exposes the screws that attach the overhead console, which I removed. I then replaced the Bluetooth unit with the used Ebay unit. I then reversed the process and re-installed the overhead console. Problem solved. :)
  • rvator4rvator4 Member Posts: 84
    That is using your head. Great job. I will keep it in mind.
  • golf4hackgolf4hack Member Posts: 4
    Did you ever figure out what happened with the "ratchety" mirror? I am having the same problem.
  • vveeraravveerara Member Posts: 4
    Hello,

    I have a 2006 TL with 47K miles. On Sunday when I was trying to park the car navigating through the tailgaters at Redskins game, there was an intense burning smell in the car. I parked the car and drove home after the game when the smell was not as intense. Since then I have driven the car about 100 miles and there is a slight smell. Everything seems normal other than the slight smell around my right tire. Clutch pedal feels fine and I have normal acceleration.

    I took it to the dealer on Monday AM and they said that the clutch needs to be replaced and it is $1900 for the clutch and $2600 if I also need the flywheel. Called Acura customer service who was very helpful and suggested that I need to authorize tear down (at my expense) to diagnose the problem and then suggest corrective action which seems reasonable if clutch is the problem.

    Question: Understand that clutch is not a warranty item, does the diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things that I need to be aware of.

    FYI.. I had a Mustang prior to this car and it had 115K on original clutch when I sold it. I learned to drive in a stick shift car.

    Appreciate any insight you can provide. Thank you.
  • carteachcarteach Member Posts: 179
    A few thoughts even though I'm not expert about clutches.

    Dealers are making their money these days on repairs, not on car sales. So keep that in mind. I've heard more than one story where dealers have told people they've needed an expensive repair that was not needed at all.

    Since your clutch isn't under warranty, check out a few reliable (if you can find them) auto repair shops to see whether they come up with the same diagnosis.

    If it were me, I'd wait a while before I did anything. I've had horrible burning smells from a piece of plastic that's gotten lodged some place. The fact that smell has almost disappeared would make me want to wait.

    Good luck.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,433
    ditto here. If it was so shot that is was burning like that, I think you would notice it from feel, and certainly juddering starting up in 1st.

    I once had a plastic bag wrap around the cat converter, and man, did that smell horrible!

    I would also check with an independant shop or 2 for opinions. And prices, since that seems really, really high, but I have not paid to replace a clutch since 1979 (and I have driven stick exclusively since then).

    keep in mind tht if you pay for a tear down, you are kind of stuck with them and what they find, unless I guess you want to pay to have them put it all back together, so you can go elsewhere?

    also, you mentioned the smell coming from around the rear tire, which seems odd if it was the clutch. Might want to have the brakes checked 1st (tire stores do that for free). Maybe pads are shot, or something was dragging?

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • billpaulbillpaul Member Posts: 103
    Clutch might actually be a warranty problem, depending on what's wrong with the car (assuming anything is wrong). Agree with others: get other opinions before commiting to a very high cost.
  • coast4coast4 Member Posts: 1
    had similar thing happen and was told by the dealer that the car will use 1 qt of oil for every 1000 miles have it in writing from dealer. who would buy such a car if told this in advance and if it is true should not all acura tl owners be warned.
  • rlonn1rlonn1 Member Posts: 106
    But!!! Think how many of us have the same car and we do not burn 1 Qt of oil every 1000 Miles! I did burn 3/4 of a quart after 5K! But from 5K to the present 7800 that does include a 6500 mile first oil change, Zero oil burned.... :confuse: :sick:
  • yoyooneyoyoone Member Posts: 9
    I HAVE A 2008 TL TYPE S... 29,000 MILES... I NEED FRONT BRAKES FOR THE SECOND TIME... ON MY 2003 AND 2005 TL TYPE 'S, I WOULD GET 42000 MILES ON THE BRAKES... WHAT IS THE PROBLEM WITH THESE BRAKES
  • gbosilgbosil Member Posts: 88
    Sounds odd? I have a 2007 TLS and got 30K out of mine? I did go to aftermarket when I changed them out. It's much cheaper! I went with the Brembo Drilled Rotors and Powerstop Brakes. They work excellent! And NO MORE BRAKE DUST!!!! :shades:
  • rlonn1rlonn1 Member Posts: 106
    A recent Court Decision went against HONDA on these brake issues. They offer a $150 credit for your particular situation. Talk to your dealer about all the details. My wife 2009 Acura TSX had her front pads replaced after 23K, they covered the entire cost!
  • steph3259steph3259 Member Posts: 2
    Their are much better cars for winter driving. I use snow tires and drive in New Hampshire and MA 1k mi a week. It's not bad but I've driven better. Saab 900 S or 93 with snow tires is unbeatable in the snow unless you want to go to AWD or 4WD. But it drives like a dream the rest of the year.
  • steph3259steph3259 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 06 TL with 137K mi. and replaced the tires in March with Yokohama Avid Envigor tires. When I first had them installed the car drove better than it ever had. Outstanding handling and absolutely no tire noise. After about 12-15K miles they have started to feather on the inside. Have rotated ever 6k and the alignment was checked twice and is fine. Now after 25K I can't stand the noise any longer they are louder than my snow tires. The Alignment was checked again and is fine less than a 32nd off on the camber. The mechanic checked the ball joints and mounts and found nothing on any wheel. His only suggestion was possible strut fatigue. Any thoughts on that? I don't want to spent $1100 on all four strut replacements if they are just trying to change parts to troubleshoot. I know 137k mi is a lot but it's all highway miles. Would Fatigued struts feather the inside of the tire? What else would it be? :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well certainly at 137K if you've never replaced the struts, they are fatigued--however, if this is truly "feathering" and not scalloping or "cupping", then toe in and toe out are the usual culprits. If there is noticeable cupping, then strut replacement would be warranted--but if it's the typical feathering pattern, then struts as a cause is much less likely IMO.
  • zak_autozak_auto Member Posts: 19
    I just bought a set of Toyo Proxes 4 for my '08 TL Type S (62K miles). As soon as I got on the highway they were whining and vibrating

    I went thru 2 sets of Proxes on my previous car, an '03 RSX Type S. I loved the tires on the RSX but the car wasn't exactly quiet so I did not notice (or care) about the tire noise. The TL is a very quiet ride so the tire noise is very obvious and annoying.

    What tires have TL owners bought that were high performance tires yet quiet?
  • strokeoluck2strokeoluck2 Member Posts: 91
    Many of the TL owners have had issues with vibrating wheels/tires. If you do a search on this forum for some related key words you'll find a bunch of comments. I had some of the same issues for quite a while with the original tires. After switching tires (don't recall what I switched to, but it was a set highly recommended by others on this site) it got a little better, but the vibration was still there during certain speeds and certain temperatures. Finally I went on TireRack.com and purchased a new set of wheels and some "winter" tires that were highly rated. Problem is now gone.

    Granted, the winter tires don't perform quite as well as my other "performance" tires in summer. But to avoid the hassle factor of swapping rims/tires I just leave the winter ones on all year-round now. The winter tires perform great in these Minnesota seasons.

    Anyway, do a search on my previous posts and you should be able to find the performance tires I used to have. I've since sold them, with the original rims, but aside from the minor vibration - which I now partially chalk up to the OE rims - the tires performed great...used to love going 100+ on those tires.
  • zak_autozak_auto Member Posts: 19
    edited December 2010
    I recently purchased a set of Toyo Versado's for my '08 TL Type S. After a month I have to say they are pretty nice. They are a little quiter than the original Bridgestone's that came with the car. I 1st bought a set of Toyo Proxes because I liked them a lot on my previous car, a '03 RSX Type-S. The Proxes however do not belong on the TL. The Proxes are too loud and turn the normally quiet ride of the TL into a humming, vibrating unenjoyable ride. I returned the Proxes and replaced them with Versados.

    So far the Versado's handle very well on the road and are nicely quiet. I haven't had a chance to drive in the snow yet but I live in Massachusetts so it's only a matter of time before the snow falls.
  • laurasdadalaurasdada Member Posts: 4,684
    Hi, Zak: Another MA TL owner here. I, too had the Versados. Be careful in the snow, I think they are worse in the white stuff than the OEM Bridgestones. Love the TL, but it is the first car I've owned that I've put snow tires on for winter driving. FWD and all-season tires have served me fine all my life. Until the TL...

    Just replaced the Toyos (one unrepairable puncture, another pretty worn on the inside) with Vredestein Summer tires. Limited driving, like 'em even more than the Toyos! But, the Vredestein's are in the garage, Dunlop Wintersports on the TL now. And it is flurrying!

    '21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)

  • mdcatdadmdcatdad Member Posts: 14
    At first it seemed that snow on the wipers were blocking the wiper fluid from spurting onto the windshield because as the car warmed up and the snow cleared off my 08 TL's wipers spurted some fluid on the windshield.

    Then (on a long road trip) they stopped working. When I got home I
    found that the reservoir seemed to be empty, so I bought a 1-gallon bottle.
    However, when I tried to fill the reservoir (allegedly 2.5 qts per the manual) I couldn't get much into the reservoir before it seemed to fill up (fluid coming out of the top). Do I need to do it with the engine running? Or just wait for the fluid to settle somewhere and try again?
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    If you can't get the specified amount into the reservior and it acts as if it were empty, then I'd check to see if there is some frozen fluid in the reservior. If you cannot see it, and the temps are below freezing outside, then parking it in a warm garage overnight might do it.

    I noticed that some washer fluid distributors (like Walmart) were selling what looked like standard blue washer fluid over the summer but it was marked "+32 degrees". This is very poor labeling as one could easily miss the fact that it's only for use above freezing and not below. If you had any of this +32 fluid in over the summer you could run into the symptoms you described.
  • mdcatdadmdcatdad Member Posts: 14
    Supposedly it's 37 out right now so I went out and again tried to add WW fluid and could only add a very little (BTW, it's "all-season" WW fluid)

    Also, I don't recall ever adding WW fluid to the car (which is now 3 years old). Either the dealer did it when changing the oil and filter or my service station did it (I use them for things for which it's not necessary to go to a dealer: e.g. tires). If neither, then this is the original WW fluid, so I wonder why it's not all-season
  • strokeoluck2strokeoluck2 Member Posts: 91
    I too would love to know what's up with the side mirror issue. My passenger side mirror just started doing this. Not sure if something is stuck behind here, or it's a mechanical malfunction.
  • jranlyjranly Member Posts: 1
    So this is my first post and i'm sure that i'll have more in the future, though i hope not. So my 2004 Tl which I purchased last year has decided to make this creaking/rattling noise as i turn and accelerate-push on the brakes etc. I've taken it to the dealership 3 times to date and been told that it was a side motor mount that had frozen up. so they basically said that they "loosened it" and that should solve the problem. Wrong, so it continues to this day and I don't really feel like bringing it back to the dealership so that they can charge me more money to not fix anything. If anyone has any help in this department or knows of a good acura mechanic in the columbus, ohio area please send it my way.

    I am someone who really despises the fact that these are suppose to be "luxury" cars and can't seem to get something so audible fixed. Thanks to anyone that can help
  • selig1selig1 Member Posts: 8
    I bought an 04 TL in 05 with 16k miles. It had all kinds of rattles, and I took it back to the dealer many times to get them fixed. Finally, after several yrs they got all of them. I was lucky, because they were covered under the warranty. Many of the TL for their first several years had these problems. Most, if not all the fixes, consisted of putting insulation foam in the areas where the "rattles" came from. Sometimes it took a lot of effort to find the exact places to put the foam, but it worked. The good news, at least from my experience, is that its been a great car in every other way. Still amazed that I can drive it as fast as I sometimes do and still get 30mpg on the highway. Good luck....
  • laurasdadalaurasdada Member Posts: 4,684
    My '05 TL just hit 81,000 trouble-free miles. Except for a couple of rattles early on, sunroof deflector and visor. Both fixed (after two attempts) under warranty. Recently, the wiper stalk off the steering wheel column has begu to buzz....

    Agree about the mpg, not too shabby! Wonderful car, although my loving eyes have begun to wander...

    '21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)

  • cajunchipscajunchips Member Posts: 1
    I had a 2004 Acura and less than 51000 miles. The dealer told me to replace timing belt. Is that true, please advise.

    Thanks a bunch.
  • mkacuramkacura Member Posts: 20
    Yes it is. Most of the time timing belts are replaced based on mileage, usually in the 90k-100k mile time frame. However, since your car is an '04 and it has been 7 years, the material of the belt ages. If a belt does not reach the 90k-100k mileage but reaches 7-8 years, then it's time to replace.

    Better to spend the money before it breaks. A broken timing belt will cost you far far more $$$.
  • delmar1delmar1 Member Posts: 744
    edited June 2011
    I haven't been on the board here for some time.....so paying a visit.

    I have a 2005 TL with 71k miles. Never anything wrong. Just purchased my second set of replacement tires after getting 43k miles on my last Michelins. Had my front brakes done at 65k miles. Rears still have half on the pad. So with that...you can see the miles have been easy on the car because of route and freeways.

    However...now my wife is driving it and I don't sense the miles will be as easy for the poor TL. Let me put it this way. My wife burnt out the 2005 TSX at 98k where I had to trade the car in because of a tran converter hum and alternator that needed replacement. :surprise:

    So the question is.....what have others experiences as the car ages? Timing belt at 105k miles. Plugs also. What type of repairs have others with the 2005 TLs?

    Gosh...I miss that TL.

    Lastly...how many miles have others squeezed out of their TL?
  • mikesmuranomikesmurano Member Posts: 118
    edited June 2011
    Bro,

    I feel your pain. My sig/other has hi-jacked my TL.

    She rides it hard and she is harsh on cars.

    I had the T belt replaced @110K. I now need brakes & at least two tires. I am researching other types/brands of pads. The Acura pads are costly.

    I am not a fan of Michelin. I have always received better life out of Good Year (Dunlop) & Bridgestone (the Potenza is a good model) products or other.

    Right now we are running Kumho. These are okay. They are cheaper and are not lasting as long as I expected. You can buy a set from the Tire Rack for around $588. The Dunlops are also on sale.

    Note that these tires are performance tires (softer rubber) and don't have a long life. The main thing is to get them rotated every 5K miles. You'll get more life out of them.

    I'll look for some brake pad suggestions and post them later.

    You could also buy your wife a used Accord or Civic and take the TL back.

    BTW, don't buy a Murano. I got rid of one that was horrible!
  • delmar1delmar1 Member Posts: 744
    edited June 2011
    I actually bought a 2012 Civic (don't laugh). But going to need one for the kid that will be driving in two years...and figure instead of buying a 'used car' for her where I have not idea of the history or latent damage. (also averaging 33mpg (over 40mpg on the highway) on Regular gas...saving about $1500 annual at the pump)

    If I get over 65k on the front brakes and still running the original rear pads...I don't mind paying $199 to the dealer service department. My Michelin Pilot A/S Sport tires lasted over 40k and paid less than $900 with free lifetime rotations and balancing. I am ok with that too.

    So still trying to gauge what upcoming costs I have. Seems like I will have $1,500 for the timing belt. $200 for rear brakes. Plugs for say $300. Serpentine belts for a few hundred. So I am guessing about $2,500 coming up at about 100,000 miles. Then another set of tires at say 110k...so that brings it to about $3,500 when there will be minimal trade in value....with who knows what else to go wrong with age.

    ps...I hope to break in that Civic then ease my wife into that car to commondeer my beloved TL.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,433
    that seems way high for the T Belt. Plugs too most likely. And the serp belt should be cheap, just the cost of the belt (no labor) if you do it with the t belt.

    not sure how much plugs will cost to put in.

    You need to find a reliable indy, if those are the prices at your dealer.

    I actually take my 2000 TL to the honda dealer where I get my Hondas serviced. more convenient than the acura place, and possibly cheaper.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • laurasdadalaurasdada Member Posts: 4,684
    It is with great sadness that I must announce the passing of my 2005 TL...passed as a trade-in that is! 6.5 years and 85,000 trouble-free miles of driving pleasure. One of my all-time favorite rides, I'll miss it but just could not justify three cars (and would have been four in a year or less...) in the driveway. So, hopefully she'll go to a good family who will maintain and Zaino her as regularly as I did!

    Other than a few rattles fixed under warranty, nothing to report. Smooth, powerful (ok, not much low end), quiet, handsome, reliable and economical. Well done, Acura.

    Adios, amigo. Vaya con Dios. :shades:

    '21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)

  • new2carsnew2cars Member Posts: 71
    Hi everyone,

    I have a 2007 silver TL and I am in need of silver paint for a small portion of the exterior of the car. Where can I purchase a little bottle of Acura quality paint to match the car?

    Thanks in advance for your help!
  • delmar1delmar1 Member Posts: 744
    I understand that the T-belt is over a $1,000. Something like $1,200.

    When doing the T-belt...is it also likely that the waterpump is going to get replaced too?
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,433
    I have not had it done on my TL or Odyssey, but I was under the impression that even at the dealer it was about $750 or so.

    and yes, best to put on a new waterpump, and probably the internal parts (tensioner, and a couple of other small things that have to come off anyway). while you are in there.

    the dealer usually prices it that way. and you can buy kits that include all those parts.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • markdubimarkdubi Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Acura TL, I have noticed some power issues lately. The clock has been reset a couple of times over the past week. This morning, there was no power, and when I slammed the glove compartment shut, the power came on. I am pretty sure it's not the battery, maybe wiring or the computer? Thanks for any help.
  • new2carsnew2cars Member Posts: 71
    Hi everyone-

    I have a 2007 TL. My side view mirrors are showing discoloration/ staining on the outer edges. I am concerned that this may spread because it looks like something may be seeping from the outside in. Most cars, including my last Acura, had a protective frame around the actual mirror. I noticed the 2007 TL doesn't have this which probably explains this discoloration around the edges of the mirrors. So annoying not to mention ugly.

    Does anyone have this issue? Is there anything I can do to correct it?

    Worse case scenario is that I replace the mirrors but what is the cost on something like this?

    Any advice is appreciated.
  • bejocundbejocund Member Posts: 12
    I have the same exact problem with my 2005 TL. Looks like your mirror is rusting right? I bought mirrors at Acura then had them installed at a local shop for much less. Feel like a brand new car again.
  • chris04tlchris04tl Member Posts: 1
    I have squeezed a good 181k out of my 04 tl,and everyone is surprised on how well it's still running
  • jwboothjwbooth Member Posts: 27
    edited September 2011
    I have an '09 TL.

    Currently about 14,500 miles, and Maintenance Minder says "5% Oil; Service 1 A".

    The manual lists 1 as Oil change and A as Tire rotation. (This will be the 3rd time I'm in for Maintenance Minder service. At approx. 5k had an Oil Change, 10k had Oil Change and Tire Rotation).

    I'm in NV.

    Both Acura dealers are telling me that I'm due for the 15,000 mile Maintenance for $300/$330, which besides the Oil Change and Rotation also includes: change Air filter, change Dust/Pollen Filter, and do something regarding Fuel Transmission.

    I get the feeling that the only thing I really need to do is Oil Change and Tire Rotation.

    Apparently to change the Dust Filter it's necessary to remove the glove box, which I don't want to do myself, so I'd just as soon skip this.

    Not changing this will only at worst affect my comfort, not the car.

    The Air Filter - I can't find anything in the manual explaining where it is or how to find it, but this should be easy to change myself, shouldn't it?

    The manual says to change the Air Filter at 15k if in a dusty environment - I don't know if the area I'm in would be considered especially dusty.

    And I think it says to change the Dust Filter at 20k if in a specially bad urban environment with lots of diesel fumes or exhaust and some other situation - even if I am in that, it's not due yet.

    As far as the Fuel Transmission whatever, sounds like a dealer service hustle.

    Feedback appreciated.

    Thanks.
  • yoyooneyoyoone Member Posts: 9
    a 2009 with only 14500 k... why so little mileage... drive the car... its great driving car..

    change the oil every 5k. quick oil change places are great.... change wipers every year... change battery after 2.5 years...

    rotate tires every 10k... stay away from the dealer... find a good mechanic in your area...

    the dealer will keep the car for a day for oil change... and all repairs are big $

    the car doesn't need much maintenance...

    oil change is about it

    good luck

    w
  • mkacuramkacura Member Posts: 20
    No need to pay the $300+ for the 15k service! Most of the stuff in the service is just to "inspect". The only things of value in that 15k service are the oil change, air filter replacement and tire rotation.

    I have an '09 with 30k miles and I did not do the 15k service. Basically just change the oil (and rear differential oil since I have the AWD model) as indicated by the Maintenance Minder.

    The air filter I change myself every year or 15k miles. Very easy to do. Although I haven't done it yet I plan to do the same with the cabin filter behind the glove box. Search the internet and you can find instructions with pictures.

    I order my parts through Bernardi Acura. Although they are an Acura dealer, they have a mail order parts business and they sell at a discount.
  • annalovely0neannalovely0ne Member Posts: 7
    Hello. I'm the "newbie" and have a couple of questions about the "psi readings" and any sensors that may be used to display those readings on the D.I.C. for each tire.

    Question: When all tires have been rotated and balanced, and one tire keeps reading 2-3 psi below the other 3, day after day, and in hot weather that's now cool, what would you think is the problem? If that tire that keeps showing a lower reading than the other 3, even after that one tire pressure has been "adjusted" (hydrogen-filled), and days later, the tire is "submerged" for 20-30 minutes to test for leaks, what would you "think" the problem might be? The difference remains 2-3 psi below the other 3. This has been happening recently (1-week). The service manager at the dealership used a hand-held gauge on each tire to get an accurate reading and says that what's on the D.I.C. is just a "gauge", and is not a true reading: I say, "that's a bunch of crap"! I was also told that "there is no sensor" to be checked, and the only "reading" for the tires comes from the information fed into "the system" by the tires -- duh? Haven't heard such a crock since military service when I was a private (1976), when a recruiter pulled the wool over my eyes! :o) Never changed a tire on a military vehicle, but, would appreciate your opinions and/or advice.
  • mkacuramkacura Member Posts: 20
    I too think your Service Manager is feeding you a bunch of crap! :) It seems that you have done that all you could have in ruling out other potential problems with that tire/wheel.

    All the evidence points to a bad pressure sensor in that wheel. I would try to pressure the dealer to replace that sensor or put that problematic wheel on a loaner car and drive it around for a few minutes. That's more work for them so maybe that'll convince them to swap the sensor. :) I'm sure they have spares and even slightly used ones lying around to test.

    Having that one wheel down 2-3 psi on the display would drive me NUTS! If you get no joy from this guy, maybe another nearby dealer?
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