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2003 Acura TL 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 180000 miles
I have a 2003 Acura TL-S the car runs great with a perfect engine
Last april i took the car to Acura for servicing and i was told that there was a recall on transmission, something has to to with the 2nd gear and they put some kind of inject on it.
Anyway, last night while i was trying to park i did a reverse and than a D5 and the car wont move, it did eventually move, but it took its time, when ever i turned the car on and off, the transmission works perfectly.
In other words, when i start the car , the car works perfectly, but if i drive it for a mile or two and try to park, do a reverse and a d5, i start giving me problems other than that no problems.
NB: note that , if i turn the car off and on, the issue is gone
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Your symptoms sound a bit different, however, since it fixes the problem itself when you restart. Can only suggest you return it to the servicing dealer to check for an electrical switching/ solenoid problem . Maybe they will be able to squeeze the fix under the previous recall work order if it's a simple one.
Would definitely recommend you not put it off however
I have a 2006 TL with 47K miles. On Sunday when I was trying to park the car navigating through the tailgaters at Redskins game, there was an intense burning smell in the car. I parked the car and drove home after the game when the smell was not as intense. Since then I have driven the car about 100 miles and there is a slight smell. Everything seems normal other than the slight smell around my right tire. Clutch pedal feels fine and I have normal acceleration.
I took it to the dealer on Monday AM and they said that the clutch needs to be replaced and it is $1900 for the clutch and $2600 if I also need the flywheel. Called Acura customer service who was very helpful and suggested that I need to authorize tear down (at my expense) to diagnose the problem and then suggest corrective action which seems reasonable if clutch is the problem.
Question: Understand that clutch is not a warranty item, does the diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things that I need to be aware of.
FYI.. I had a Mustang prior to this car and it had 115K on original clutch when I sold it. I learned to drive in a stick shift car.
Appreciate any insight you can provide. Thank you.
Dealers are making their money these days on repairs, not on car sales. So keep that in mind. I've heard more than one story where dealers have told people they've needed an expensive repair that was not needed at all.
Since your clutch isn't under warranty, check out a few reliable (if you can find them) auto repair shops to see whether they come up with the same diagnosis.
If it were me, I'd wait a while before I did anything. I've had horrible burning smells from a piece of plastic that's gotten lodged some place. The fact that smell has almost disappeared would make me want to wait.
Good luck.
I once had a plastic bag wrap around the cat converter, and man, did that smell horrible!
I would also check with an independant shop or 2 for opinions. And prices, since that seems really, really high, but I have not paid to replace a clutch since 1979 (and I have driven stick exclusively since then).
keep in mind tht if you pay for a tear down, you are kind of stuck with them and what they find, unless I guess you want to pay to have them put it all back together, so you can go elsewhere?
also, you mentioned the smell coming from around the rear tire, which seems odd if it was the clutch. Might want to have the brakes checked 1st (tire stores do that for free). Maybe pads are shot, or something was dragging?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I went thru 2 sets of Proxes on my previous car, an '03 RSX Type S. I loved the tires on the RSX but the car wasn't exactly quiet so I did not notice (or care) about the tire noise. The TL is a very quiet ride so the tire noise is very obvious and annoying.
What tires have TL owners bought that were high performance tires yet quiet?
Granted, the winter tires don't perform quite as well as my other "performance" tires in summer. But to avoid the hassle factor of swapping rims/tires I just leave the winter ones on all year-round now. The winter tires perform great in these Minnesota seasons.
Anyway, do a search on my previous posts and you should be able to find the performance tires I used to have. I've since sold them, with the original rims, but aside from the minor vibration - which I now partially chalk up to the OE rims - the tires performed great...used to love going 100+ on those tires.
So far the Versado's handle very well on the road and are nicely quiet. I haven't had a chance to drive in the snow yet but I live in Massachusetts so it's only a matter of time before the snow falls.
Just replaced the Toyos (one unrepairable puncture, another pretty worn on the inside) with Vredestein Summer tires. Limited driving, like 'em even more than the Toyos! But, the Vredestein's are in the garage, Dunlop Wintersports on the TL now. And it is flurrying!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Then (on a long road trip) they stopped working. When I got home I
found that the reservoir seemed to be empty, so I bought a 1-gallon bottle.
However, when I tried to fill the reservoir (allegedly 2.5 qts per the manual) I couldn't get much into the reservoir before it seemed to fill up (fluid coming out of the top). Do I need to do it with the engine running? Or just wait for the fluid to settle somewhere and try again?
I noticed that some washer fluid distributors (like Walmart) were selling what looked like standard blue washer fluid over the summer but it was marked "+32 degrees". This is very poor labeling as one could easily miss the fact that it's only for use above freezing and not below. If you had any of this +32 fluid in over the summer you could run into the symptoms you described.
Also, I don't recall ever adding WW fluid to the car (which is now 3 years old). Either the dealer did it when changing the oil and filter or my service station did it (I use them for things for which it's not necessary to go to a dealer: e.g. tires). If neither, then this is the original WW fluid, so I wonder why it's not all-season
I am someone who really despises the fact that these are suppose to be "luxury" cars and can't seem to get something so audible fixed. Thanks to anyone that can help
Agree about the mpg, not too shabby! Wonderful car, although my loving eyes have begun to wander...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Thanks a bunch.
Better to spend the money before it breaks. A broken timing belt will cost you far far more $$$.
I have a 2005 TL with 71k miles. Never anything wrong. Just purchased my second set of replacement tires after getting 43k miles on my last Michelins. Had my front brakes done at 65k miles. Rears still have half on the pad. So with that...you can see the miles have been easy on the car because of route and freeways.
However...now my wife is driving it and I don't sense the miles will be as easy for the poor TL. Let me put it this way. My wife burnt out the 2005 TSX at 98k where I had to trade the car in because of a tran converter hum and alternator that needed replacement. :surprise:
So the question is.....what have others experiences as the car ages? Timing belt at 105k miles. Plugs also. What type of repairs have others with the 2005 TLs?
Gosh...I miss that TL.
Lastly...how many miles have others squeezed out of their TL?
I feel your pain. My sig/other has hi-jacked my TL.
She rides it hard and she is harsh on cars.
I had the T belt replaced @110K. I now need brakes & at least two tires. I am researching other types/brands of pads. The Acura pads are costly.
I am not a fan of Michelin. I have always received better life out of Good Year (Dunlop) & Bridgestone (the Potenza is a good model) products or other.
Right now we are running Kumho. These are okay. They are cheaper and are not lasting as long as I expected. You can buy a set from the Tire Rack for around $588. The Dunlops are also on sale.
Note that these tires are performance tires (softer rubber) and don't have a long life. The main thing is to get them rotated every 5K miles. You'll get more life out of them.
I'll look for some brake pad suggestions and post them later.
You could also buy your wife a used Accord or Civic and take the TL back.
BTW, don't buy a Murano. I got rid of one that was horrible!
If I get over 65k on the front brakes and still running the original rear pads...I don't mind paying $199 to the dealer service department. My Michelin Pilot A/S Sport tires lasted over 40k and paid less than $900 with free lifetime rotations and balancing. I am ok with that too.
So still trying to gauge what upcoming costs I have. Seems like I will have $1,500 for the timing belt. $200 for rear brakes. Plugs for say $300. Serpentine belts for a few hundred. So I am guessing about $2,500 coming up at about 100,000 miles. Then another set of tires at say 110k...so that brings it to about $3,500 when there will be minimal trade in value....with who knows what else to go wrong with age.
ps...I hope to break in that Civic then ease my wife into that car to commondeer my beloved TL.
not sure how much plugs will cost to put in.
You need to find a reliable indy, if those are the prices at your dealer.
I actually take my 2000 TL to the honda dealer where I get my Hondas serviced. more convenient than the acura place, and possibly cheaper.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Other than a few rattles fixed under warranty, nothing to report. Smooth, powerful (ok, not much low end), quiet, handsome, reliable and economical. Well done, Acura.
Adios, amigo. Vaya con Dios. :shades:
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I have a 2007 silver TL and I am in need of silver paint for a small portion of the exterior of the car. Where can I purchase a little bottle of Acura quality paint to match the car?
Thanks in advance for your help!
When doing the T-belt...is it also likely that the waterpump is going to get replaced too?
and yes, best to put on a new waterpump, and probably the internal parts (tensioner, and a couple of other small things that have to come off anyway). while you are in there.
the dealer usually prices it that way. and you can buy kits that include all those parts.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I have a 2007 TL. My side view mirrors are showing discoloration/ staining on the outer edges. I am concerned that this may spread because it looks like something may be seeping from the outside in. Most cars, including my last Acura, had a protective frame around the actual mirror. I noticed the 2007 TL doesn't have this which probably explains this discoloration around the edges of the mirrors. So annoying not to mention ugly.
Does anyone have this issue? Is there anything I can do to correct it?
Worse case scenario is that I replace the mirrors but what is the cost on something like this?
Any advice is appreciated.
Currently about 14,500 miles, and Maintenance Minder says "5% Oil; Service 1 A".
The manual lists 1 as Oil change and A as Tire rotation. (This will be the 3rd time I'm in for Maintenance Minder service. At approx. 5k had an Oil Change, 10k had Oil Change and Tire Rotation).
I'm in NV.
Both Acura dealers are telling me that I'm due for the 15,000 mile Maintenance for $300/$330, which besides the Oil Change and Rotation also includes: change Air filter, change Dust/Pollen Filter, and do something regarding Fuel Transmission.
I get the feeling that the only thing I really need to do is Oil Change and Tire Rotation.
Apparently to change the Dust Filter it's necessary to remove the glove box, which I don't want to do myself, so I'd just as soon skip this.
Not changing this will only at worst affect my comfort, not the car.
The Air Filter - I can't find anything in the manual explaining where it is or how to find it, but this should be easy to change myself, shouldn't it?
The manual says to change the Air Filter at 15k if in a dusty environment - I don't know if the area I'm in would be considered especially dusty.
And I think it says to change the Dust Filter at 20k if in a specially bad urban environment with lots of diesel fumes or exhaust and some other situation - even if I am in that, it's not due yet.
As far as the Fuel Transmission whatever, sounds like a dealer service hustle.
Feedback appreciated.
Thanks.
change the oil every 5k. quick oil change places are great.... change wipers every year... change battery after 2.5 years...
rotate tires every 10k... stay away from the dealer... find a good mechanic in your area...
the dealer will keep the car for a day for oil change... and all repairs are big $
the car doesn't need much maintenance...
oil change is about it
good luck
w
I have an '09 with 30k miles and I did not do the 15k service. Basically just change the oil (and rear differential oil since I have the AWD model) as indicated by the Maintenance Minder.
The air filter I change myself every year or 15k miles. Very easy to do. Although I haven't done it yet I plan to do the same with the cabin filter behind the glove box. Search the internet and you can find instructions with pictures.
I order my parts through Bernardi Acura. Although they are an Acura dealer, they have a mail order parts business and they sell at a discount.
Question: When all tires have been rotated and balanced, and one tire keeps reading 2-3 psi below the other 3, day after day, and in hot weather that's now cool, what would you think is the problem? If that tire that keeps showing a lower reading than the other 3, even after that one tire pressure has been "adjusted" (hydrogen-filled), and days later, the tire is "submerged" for 20-30 minutes to test for leaks, what would you "think" the problem might be? The difference remains 2-3 psi below the other 3. This has been happening recently (1-week). The service manager at the dealership used a hand-held gauge on each tire to get an accurate reading and says that what's on the D.I.C. is just a "gauge", and is not a true reading: I say, "that's a bunch of crap"! I was also told that "there is no sensor" to be checked, and the only "reading" for the tires comes from the information fed into "the system" by the tires -- duh? Haven't heard such a crock since military service when I was a private (1976), when a recruiter pulled the wool over my eyes! ) Never changed a tire on a military vehicle, but, would appreciate your opinions and/or advice.
All the evidence points to a bad pressure sensor in that wheel. I would try to pressure the dealer to replace that sensor or put that problematic wheel on a loaner car and drive it around for a few minutes. That's more work for them so maybe that'll convince them to swap the sensor. I'm sure they have spares and even slightly used ones lying around to test.
Having that one wheel down 2-3 psi on the display would drive me NUTS! If you get no joy from this guy, maybe another nearby dealer?