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Toyota Tundra: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • srpetersonsrpeterson Member Posts: 6
    New update on my 05 Doublecab. According to the service manager here is what the factory is claiming. The vibration is caused by the exhaust and is NORMAL. They were able to duplicate it in every Tundra Doublecab they used. The dual exhaust version Tundra had less noticeable vibration. It ONLY costs another $1200 to have mine changed over (yeah right).

    I still don't buy the idea that it is solely an exhaust problem. I feel and HEAR a vibration. You shouldn't hear a exhaust vibration in this truck at any speed other than possibly at lower intown speeds. I'm also getting a slight shimmy/shake when taking off from a stop.

    My next stop is at the dealer to test drive another Tundra. From there, depending on what happens on the test drive, I guess the factory reps are going to get a call.
  • astonmanastonman Member Posts: 3
    Twice yesterday the key would not turn to start my 2000 Tundra (93,000 miles). I had to turn the stearing wheel back and forth really far and keep working with the key for 2 or 3 minutes to get it freed up. Has anyone else had this problem and if so know of a solution short of having the thing torn into?
  • garyandersgaryanders Member Posts: 39
    I pretty sure you will be ok, I have 265 50 20 on my 04 double cab with 2wd. I originally had 285 50 20 when I purchased the truck and had to take it back to the dealership because I was getting a virbration and lo and behold the front tires were rubbing on the upper control arm. Toyota at one time was putting 285 50 20 on their texas edition trucks and stopped doing this for this reason. Hope this helps you.
  • connerconner Member Posts: 1
    i have a2001 tundra front brakes lasted for about 16k i asked the dealer why? they said it was a feature of the tundra, thats not a feature its a problem back brakes had no wear at all
  • fjp3fjp3 Member Posts: 1
    I've got an 04 dbl cab v8 that sounds like a coach's whistle on hard acceleration. The dealership said that it is a normal sound from the air going into the throttle-body. Anyone else have this sound?
  • jam123jam123 Member Posts: 2
    I am shocked to learn that Tundras have this chronic problem. I have a brand new 2005 Access with 502 miles on the Odometer. The truck is at the dealer. The have taken the engine apart and found a valve bent.

    The symtoms. I the truck was running fine then all of sudden in the morning it started to have a slight vibration every so often as if it was miss firing. Then at stops it would give a periodic jerk as if it is about to die and the rpm would drop, but then it would recover. Then later in the morning after driving maybe another 15 miles, the engine started to shake real violently and sounded real bad. Had it towed to the dealer.

    They are telling me that they found a loose nut in the #8 cylinder and that got wedged in the valve for all this to happen. This story is kind of similar to another post here. All inputs would be greatly appreciated.
  • 2creative2creative Member Posts: 3
    Update... My truck is now at the second dealership and has had the engine pulled. The cause of the problems has now been found. Sand in the engine!! The dealership and Gulf States have no idea how sand could have ended up in the engine. The fuel could not have caused the problem, the injectors would have clogged before this much sand could get in. The oil is not to blame, the sand is on top of the right bank pistons and not covered in oil. (I have great pics) Maybe the air filter, think again perfectly clean filter and intake hose to the engine clean as well. Toyotas conclusion to the sand being in the engine. NONE. Solution to the blown engine.... Toyota has now decided that the problem will be cover under Warranty or the "Goodwill Policy". The policy is that if they might could loose in court. It's best to fix the problem and hope it goes away. Which I probably will go away since my problem is fixed. Looking at the start of this chain with the other trucks problem. I personally do believe that a bolt is backing out of the air intake next to the throttle body and allowing dirt air into the engine and causing these problems. But what do I know , I'm not a mechanic or even claim to be. I'm just a Toyota owner who has been driving a Ford rental for 3 months...Good Luck
  • tundranatortundranator Member Posts: 14
    yes have the same problem on my 02 and toyota told me the same thing. I dont know if it is crap or not! when I put the K&N in i noticed the sound even more.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    A reporter is looking to speak with owners of Chrysler, Saab, Toyota or Volkswagen vehicles who did all the scheduled maintenance on their vehicle and still experienced engine sludge within the warranty period within the past year. If this describes your situation, please respond by 6pm Eastern on Monday, May 23, 2005 to [email protected].
    Thanks for your consideration,
    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com
  • garyandersgaryanders Member Posts: 39
    It is very hard for me to believe it is the exhaust. I have a 2004 doublecab and have not had a problem with it. If you have 285 50 20 tires then the front tires are rubbing on the upper control arms. Toyota went to 265 50 20 tires for this reason. Just stay on the dealership because the squeeky wheel gets the grease. Good luck.
  • larslooselarsloose Member Posts: 1
    Yep, My 2002 with 66,000 miles has been periodically doing that since 50,000 miles. Mine usually frees up quickly but it is getting worse with time. I haven't heard of any easy solutions yet but will pass it on if I receive any info.
  • ronstoyronstoy Member Posts: 55
    Well I was kind of upset that there was no locking gas cap or a indoor latch to release the gas cover, but when I went to fill the tank, for the first time, I found out there isn't even a plastic holder on the latch to hold the gas cap when filling. I do not like the gas cap hanging, swinging, possibly scratching or getting gas on the side of the vehicle. Anyone either get a locking gas cap or some kind of holder for the cap when filling?
  • tundranatortundranator Member Posts: 14
    Really man come on pissing and moaning about a Gas cap? If that is all of your problems with your truck THEN BE THANKFUL!
  • victor3victor3 Member Posts: 15
    I am driving 2005 double cab Tundra. There is a continuous humming vibration inside the cab when at idle. It is most noticeable in the steering wheel and the floor when the truck is in gear and even more magnified when the a/c compressor engages. I've had a regional toyota rep check the truck and a report sent into Toyota but nothing will be done until Toyota gets bombarded by complaints.

    If you have the same symptoms on your 2005 Tundra, please respond with your experiences. I would like to get an idea of how widespread the dissatisfaction is regarding this problem.

    Thank you
  • jam123jam123 Member Posts: 2
    As I had posted earlier regarding my bent valves on a new truck wih less then 500 miles. Update - I picked up my truck from the dealer after 1.5 weeks. They replaced the valves and a few other caskets, etc. I have to admt that I was treated very well by the dealer, they gave another nice truck to drive etc. Toyota Corp has also extended the warranty on the engine past the standard period. The truck is running just fine, but the final verdict is stiil out till I get some mileage past the "breakin" period. Will keep posting with updates.
  • newellnewell Member Posts: 15
    Suspension recall :front control arm lower ball joint. NHTSA Recall: 05V225000. Your going to LOVE this one!! Due to manufacturing issues, the surface of the ball joint may be SCRATCHED and they assembled the units which may lead to excessive wear and looseness, resulting in increased steering or ball joint may seperate resulting in loss of steerng control and a crash could occur without warning. OH! WONDERFUL. 7 THOUSAND Vehicles!
  • ronstoyronstoy Member Posts: 55
    Sorry Tundranator, those are the only complaints/comments I have right now. I'll try and drudge up some important problems in the future. :shades:
  • thedude007thedude007 Member Posts: 2
    first: when toyota "RECALLS" something, it is NEVER mandated by the goverment, which most "RECALLS" usually are. what toyota really does is a "SERVICE CAMPAIGN". they find out there is a problem and they bring the vehicles in themselves before the goverment requires them to do so. this hardly ever happens, but that's toyota's committment to its customers. it is my understanding (and i may be way wrong here) but toyota has only had a handful of vehicle actually have this problem that they are service campaigning these vehicles for... last report i heard was 6 vehicles actually had this problem.
  • fastfjrfastfjr Member Posts: 11
    Just picked up my 05 access 4WD, TRD. I now have about 300 miles on the truck. Everything seems well. This is my 3rd toyota. While reading the manual it said you must take it to the dealer if the fog light burns out for them to replace it. Are they NUTS??? Take the time to go to the dealer to have them pop in a new buld. Is it only me or is somthing wrong here? I have always loved my Toyotas have had very few problems. But the more I read from this board the more worried I get.
  • tundranatortundranator Member Posts: 14
    Would this have to do with a popping sound in the front end when you cut the wheel sharp one way or another? If not any one else hear this in there truck?
  • tundra15tundra15 Member Posts: 3
    Hello, I just installed a K&N intake kit on my truck. After installing it I drove my truck it sounded great and then after 5-10min driving I started to hear rattling noise when accelerating around 45mph. I took it off put my stock intake and there was no rattling noise . Yet again I installed the K&N and followed the directions carefully and made sure that nothing was lose and still it made that noise. I know that it makes a wooshing sound with K&N but it makes rattling noise when ever in higher RPMS around 45mph. I have called K&N and they said its normal, but how can it be normal when there something rattling loudly only when the engine warms up it does not do it when its cold. Can someone help me I am very frustrated. Thanks
  • tundra15tundra15 Member Posts: 3
    That is normal K&N makes the whistling noise when you are acceleration because it is sucking in so much air.
  • 1sttoyota21sttoyota2 Member Posts: 1
    I have the 2005 Double cab SR5 TRD 4 x 4....lately it has the sound of Birds roosting all over..The dealer said it is because of the dry weather and the rubber bushings are getting dried out...presently we have had a monsoon of rain and its still there. Another of the many things the dealer knows nothing about. I did spray Wd 40 on the rear shackles and lithium grease on the door hinges to quiet it down some. but the "birds" are still there. Good Luck. Wish i had a better answer but like the dealer...I have no real clue where its coming from as i sprayed everything i could find that could be rubbing
  • billstlbillstl Member Posts: 14
    #55 of 181 TUNDRA / REAR SHOCK SQUEAKS!!!! by newell Dec 30, 2004 (2:07 am)
    Reply | E-mail Msg

    HEY GUYS! Toyota finially has a TSB for the squeaks in 2004/2005 Tundras. See TSB SU003-04 dated 12/24/2004. Problem is with upper shock mount systems; field fix kit has been developed. Looking forward to my next service visit!! I knew it wasn't in my mind!!
  • sonnyboysonnyboy Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2003 Tundra. The rightside outer disc pad is worn down to the last bit of material. I took the pads out to inspect them, the caliper pistons seemed to move freely. What would cause this uneven wear?
  • drhodes2001drhodes2001 Member Posts: 1
    #97 of 183 Brakes and transmissiion by curlyhiro Feb 15, 2005 (1:49 am)
    Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg

    I just got sick and tired of taking my truck back to the dealer for brakes. I finally had the front rotors turned again and install CarbonMetallic pad from "Performance Friction" and cured my brake problem. I now haul a camper and tow my 15ft boat behind me and have no brake problem. I've put on 50,000 miles with this set up and no rotor shake and pad's still look good. Very little dust also. About the transmission. I tried to talk to Toyota since I was a transmission rebuilder and told them about the slip into third gear under throttle and a severe bad you got which is very hard on all the bearing inside and also about the coasting problem you get going around a corner slow. The vehicle would go back into first gear and the overrun clutch would coast and slam back into gear when you applies throttle. They though I was some kind of dope. These so called engineers really don't know what the real world is like and that's why they have so many design changes as the public finds these faults. You think they would listen sometimes. You can't do anything about the transmission because is electronic but, what you can do is ease back into the throttle when you feel that coast feeling and also back off the throttle when going into third gear under heavy throttle. This will ease the hard shift into third. I'm going to go into my transmission one day the replace the third accumulator spring and drill out the third clutch apply hole. You know us mehanic's, we always wait til the last minute.

    This is in reply to message # 97. I have this exact problem with my tranny but it seems that it is when shifting to 2nd. But like you said, if I control my throttle a little then it doesn't shift hard. Anyway, I have 89K and it tore one rear end up and going on number 2. I am debating getting it rebuilt or I can get a new tranny for 3200 with a 1K core from toyotapartsales.com . How much can I expect to pay for a rebuild and do you think I would have future problems?

    Thanks,
    Dustin
  • tundradudetundradude Member Posts: 588
    Mine almost has 20,000 on it. Had my brakes redone last year. The orginial Dunlops were crap, replace with 245/75 16 MIchelin LTX. These tires are great towing tires, but they will not stop shaking. (The Dunlops were worst.) It is impossible to blance them. The alignments are almost impossible to get right, like it was when it was brand new. I have just come to the stage that the truck is not possible to be correctly aligned (meaning center steering wheel). The truck doesn't pull one direction or the other, but the wheel is in the 10'o clock position. This is my fourth Toyota truck, and my second Tundra. I would have to say that this truck can pull my camper pretty much anywhere and it does it very well. However, this truck shakes and is no where the same caliper as my 94 T-100. I really wish that Toyota decides to build a TRUCK next time on the new supposedly 3/4 ton truck. The V8 is great, but the suspension, brakes, and steering feel is just awful.

    If toyota makes another independent front suspension truck, I believe I will change.

    1993 Truck Std. Regular Cab 2.4L
    1994 T-100 Std. Regular Cab 2.7L
    2000 Tundra Std. Regular Cab 3.4L
    2002 Tundra SR5 Extended Cab 4.7L
  • dh2dh2 Member Posts: 1
    HELP! We accidently drained the transmission fluid (instead of the oil) when
    doing our first oil change on our 2005 Tundra. Now we'd like to replace
    the transmission fluid we accidently drained. The 2005 Tundra doesn't have
    a dipstick. There are no diagrams or explanations provided in the owner's
    manual or online. Please explain the steps we need to take to do this
    ourselves.
    Thanks, Desperate and Clueless
  • killer2004killer2004 Member Posts: 1
    02 tundra, about 68k, going in tomarrow for seals. fourth time. anyone else?
  • fastfjrfastfjr Member Posts: 11
    Their is NO DIPSTICK. The tranny is a sealed system. Call your dealer for instructions, I'm sure they'll get a good laugh.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    be nice...

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • rvboyrvboy Member Posts: 12
    Hey everyone,just bought a used 02 Tundra 3 months ago it now has 51,000 on it and yes I have that same pop/or clunk when you turn the wheel sharp.I had an old Nissian 4x4 that did the same thing it it was because they put solid bushing on,so they made a noise, Don;t have any brake problems in fact just had the rear brakes ajusted because the brake pedal went down to far and now the brakes are right there when I push the pedal. I still have the factory Bridgestone tires on and could get close to the 60,000 which is the life of the tire and they seem to be good tires but I'm going to put BF Goodrich tires on in the fall I live in Wisconsin !!! Going to buy a 27 foot travel trailer camper on Friday and the dry weight of the camper is 5,900 pounds can anyone tell me how there Tundra tows with all this weight.Thanks, I'm alittle stressed because I'm used to towing a 10ft popup camper and of cousre all my GM goons told me I should have gotten a bigger truck!! But consumer reports has the Tundra as the most reliable truck out there and I'm done with GM that's why I bought a Toyota .I'll keep you all posted !!!
  • northerntundranortherntundra Member Posts: 2
    I've been ignoring this squealing sound for over a year now, but I'm thinking it may be something serious. At first I thought it was maybe the belts squealing, but I have noticed that the squealing seems to become more pronounced into almost a chirp-like sound everytime the transmission shifts into a higher gear. I took it to the garage once to have them check it but the squealing seems to go away once the engine has been running for 20 minutes or so. So by the time I got it to the garage, it wasn't squealing anymore.

    Does this sound familiar to anyone? It is more of an embarassing problem than a problem that effects the operation of the truck. Everyone looks at me like my truck is going to fall apart when they hear me coming.

    Thanks.
  • kipmkipm Member Posts: 1
    I had a rattling problem too.. My cause was due to having inserted the Throttle body helix, and the K&N on my 2002.

    I actually had to chop down the intake tube.
    This was necessary because my fan was hitting it.

    From time to time my intake tube vibrates down and I hear a rattling.
    At first it's only a rattling while in gear.
    This was due to engine torque shifting.

    So I loosened the clamp, re-positioned the intake, and tightened the clamp like crazy.

    I wonder if you have the same problem... there is not much clearance there.
  • scsr52000scsr52000 Member Posts: 4
    The 2000 Tundra does'nt have an audible warning if you leave the headlights on. If the key is removed and the door is opened the headlights automatically turn off until the key is reinserted and turned on, even if the switch is turned on.
  • tundra15tundra15 Member Posts: 3
    Well, I actually saw that and shortened the tube my self, and no there is around 1-2inch clearance there. I would think thats enough??? I am so frustrated I dont know what to do anymore. :confuse:
  • scsr52000scsr52000 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 sr5 4x2 w/75,000mi. Yes, the front brake rotors tend to warp. Better to replace them with cross-drilled or slotted rotors w/semi-metallic pads than to turn them. Also have a hairline crack in the exhaust manifold that produces a slight "ticking" noise. Performance is unaffected. No other problems so far. It is by far the best handling and fastest production truck i've driven and the seats are comfortable.
  • fastfjrfastfjr Member Posts: 11
    5900lbs is going to be tough. I'm towing my 20ft boat, with an 05 with 285HP. The boat, trailer and other gear come in around 5500lbs. Your going to know its back their. Make sure you have a tranny cooler installed, either from the factory or buy one thru TRD.
  • fastfjrfastfjr Member Posts: 11
    Did you ever get your tranny fluid back in??? Did'nt your momma every tell you, if it ain't broke don't fix it :P ;)
  • wordmulewordmule Member Posts: 2
    I have an 05 tundra double cab, SR5, TRD, with the transmission cooler. The truck has about 3k miles on it. I drove up to Hurricane Ridge in the Olympic Range recently with my family of 4 weighing in at about 435 pounds total and about 200 pounds of camping gear. This is a hill that gains about 5200 feet in 17 miles. At the steepest point it has a 7% grade. I actually read the manual and noted that it indicates you should leave it in drive when climbing towing etc. so that is what I did. Well the darn transmission over heat light came on so I pulled over to see what the manual had to say about it. It says to wait for the light to go out. So we wait about 10 min with the engine running as indicated but the light stays on so gas being what it is I turn the thing off and pop the hood to let the heat out while all manner of vehicles tootle on by no problem at all. At this point my personal over heat light is on. We wait another 15-20 min and the light is off so we continue on. I was treated politely by the service dept but the bottom line is that there is nothing wrong with my transmission. I have discovered that the normal operating range is 122-176 and the computer sets a code at 192 degrees. All we know is that mine was over 176 but under 192. I bought this truck with the idea that it would be bullet proof for the light duty use I would give it. My confidence in this truck is shot. This is a little hill compared to a lot of mountain passes many of which I intend to drive. Has anyone else had this sort of problem? Should I accept that there is nothing wrong with it?
  • mish1mish1 Member Posts: 2
    I'm planning on buying a new V8 Tundra with the new engine. Does anyone know the true fuel consumption of the RWD V8 in city? Also what about from zero to sixty? 7-8 seconds? I know for a fact that the new Tacoma reaches 60 in 7.1 seconds which is very impressive.
    Has anyone heard anything about Toyota putting diesel engines into Tundras?
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    Diesels are not scheduled to be avialable until the Tundras start being made in the facility in Texas that they are working on now. That will be when they re-design the model and have a Super-duty version available. At the same time or somewhere around the same time, they are also talking about having a hybrid version avail.

    Ken
  • idahoronidahoron Member Posts: 18
    I have a 05 DC TRD 4x4. I am getting 15 to17 just running around. I have made several 300 mile trips unloaded, but i have a camper shell, and I have gotten 19.67 a couple of times if I use 93 octane and set the cruse on 75. I have pulled my 1984 Kit compainion 19 foot camp trailer to the hills and got 13. This trip started out at 3800 feet elevation with a loss of elevation of 1000 feet in the first 6 miles. Then it went to 6000 feet in the course of about 75 miles. I turned off the over drive for the entire trip. I never got a high temp light and only once did I drop to 50 MPH on a steep spot. I don't know what the trailer weighs loaded but I have a equalizer hitch to help keep the whole thing moving along better. It pulls great and drives great unloaded or loaded. I am happy with this truck so far.
    Ron
  • mish1mish1 Member Posts: 2
    Do you know approximately when this new factory will be completed and also when will they redesign the Tundra? Diesel engines are really exciting but Japanese automakers never offered diesels here in the US in their cars only Isuzu.

    Mish
  • rvboyrvboy Member Posts: 12
    I'm surprised they didn't tell you to turn off the overdrive which is the button inside your shift lever. I just bought a used 02 Tundra and it has some bugs in it.I bought a Toyota because consumer reports said it was the most reliable truck out there.
    Had a GM before and got tierd of replacing 300 dollar wire harnesses because GM sucks. Just bought a 27ft camper dry weight is 5900 pounds I know the Tundra does not have the horsepower, but seems to tow it ok.I have come to the conclusion that no matter what type of vehicle we the consumer buy they all have some type of bugs in them which is a shame because of what we now have to pay for a new or used vehicle.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    Estimated introduction for the redesign is mid '06 for the '07 model year.

    Ken
  • rvboyrvboy Member Posts: 12
    Thanks fastfjr, when I towed the 27ft camper home from the RV dealership I didn't have alot of horsepower.The guy who owned the truck before had towed a work trailer, so it has the factory trans cooler and he had put in a electric brake controler.Glad I spent the money on a good weight disributing hitch. I took the truck into a Toyota dealership to have all the fluids changed.
    The truck seemed to shift ok when towing but that 4.7 engine just doesn't have the power. But I'll take my Toyota over GM, FORD OR DODGE. My GM buddy said I should have gotten what he is now driving 6.0 desial duramax HD 2500 because he hauls his race car trailer. But I'm going with what consumer reports says and that would be TOYOTA TUNDRA IS THE MOST RELIABLE TRUCK OUT THERE !!!
    I just won't push no more then a 3-4 hour drive to the camp grounds. THANKS AGIAN !! RVBOY SAY'S TOYOTA RULES !!!
  • wordmulewordmule Member Posts: 2
    I think the main problem was that I had to go slow. 25-30 mph so it was hanging out in 2nd (i think) most of the time. Probably just not enough air flow to the cooler.
  • rvboyrvboy Member Posts: 12
    I am taking the new 27ft camper for an hour and half trip to a camp ground this weekend. No hills, but I'll get the first big test since dry weight is 5900 lbs and I'm sure with all the gear loaded we will be aleast up to 6500 lbs. Got all the fluids changed proably won't be pushing past 55mph will let you know if any of the idot lights come on.
    When I asked a buddy of mine's father who works at a Lexus dealership as a mechanicI should go with a Ford 150 or a Tundra he said no matter what the Tundra is the truck to go with. It's not a tow beast though.
    When we trade my wife's
    Ford Explorer in down the road I hope they have a heavy duty version of the Tundra with a bigger engine. For now I'm glad I own the Tundra I have.
  • evajevaj Member Posts: 1
    I too have a 2002 Tundra. At 6,000 miles I experienced terrible shuddering coming down a mountain road. I drove straight to the dealer. They rolled their eyes knowingly and told me my brake fluid was low and they would top me off. I drove away feeling like an idiot, However, a few weeks later the brakes were squealing so loudly that I went to the local brake shop because the nearest dealer is an hour away. Needless to say...they told me I narrowly missed rotor damage and I had to have the brakes replaced.

    About 2 months ago, at 80,000 miles I noticed the hard shift into 3rd gear seemed to be getting worse. I took the truck to the dealer and they had 2 people drive it and said there was nothing wrong. It has continued to be increasingly pronounced and today I noticed a vibration when accelerating. I was 20 miles from home when I lost forward momentum (sorry my girl interpretation) and I ended up calling for a tow. Don't know what the problem is yet...but seems to be the transmission.

    Aside from these two issues...it has run perfectly for 90,000 miles. I think the dealers could be more helpful, though, with the problems they obviously are aware of.
This discussion has been closed.