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Comments
S
I paid $30k in 1994 off a lease, it had 30k miles.
Repairs:
Radiator and fan clutch @150k miles
power steering hoses (both) twice in 11 years
radio (replaced with another OEM)
headliner @ 140k miles
Drive shaft @ 220k miles
Fuel pump @ 160k miles
bulbs every now and then
top-end freshen up @ 160k miles ($3000)
Car runs perfect, no open maintenance or repair items pending.
I change oil every 3k and use synthetic. I change Tx fluid and filter every other year ($120 at dealer)
Use OEM for everything and always go to dealer.
I really like the 2001 740i spt pkg but can't justify spending $30k when my car has plenty of life left in her.
Happy and loyal BMW owner.
(and to answer one other posting about getting service, I was able to at Verizon, they set up a new tri-mode tele and then called that tel lost and got tel # off that tel and then put in on my BMW tel, it works great,
Your symptoms are tire related. If suspension is "true" you have a tire issue, period. I had Kumhos on my 735i and they were the worst tires I ever had.
All performance tires will become noisy with wear, and will shimmy with wear. You have to adjust tire pressures accordingly to your driving habits.
Try increasing tire pressure to 38psi. See how the vibration travels throught your speed curve and adjust to where you are most comfortable.
Then buy quality All Season tires.
At what point are you supposed to get Inspection 2 done? I know the manual says to wait for
indicator to light up but I usually get an oil change before the indicator lights up and
I am wondering if, when they reset the oil indicator they also reset the Inspection indicator by mistake.
Also, Service Engine Soon light went up and some of the crystal squares on the digital clock got burned out. Are these common problems? I hope they are covered by the certified warranty.
Thank you for your replies.
Also have the transmission fluid flushed, yes, even at 55k miles. Also have the radiator flushed and the brake fluid flushed.
You'll thank me at 100k miles and well beyond.
This is my first BMW.
I have just bought 740IL with 80000 Miles car seems to have no problems did change the air filter and the spark plugs can somebody suggest me over the Transmission oil and differentiol oil or any other thing should I get done on this car to keep running it smooth like it is running.Is it a good car as over all or very un relaible.
Thanks and looking for feed back.
But with such minimal use, I don't see how you could consume $200 a month driving just 300 miles a month. You'd have to have really bad luck, or you'd be plagued by old problems you still haven't repaired.
So if the REST of the car is tip-top, then $2,000 isn't so much for such a nice ride...but if the car has other issues, this may not be a good idea because at 200K, anything can happen.
BMW 740IL WOULD NOT START. I GAVE IT A HOT SHOT TO START IT. IT STARTED RIGHT UP BUT I NOTICE THAT THE NAVIGATIONAL DISPLAY SCREEN, MY TRUNK RELEAST & ALARM WOULD NOT
COMING ON. A FEW DAYS LATER THE ALARM & THE TRUNK RELEAST
MAGICALLY STARTED WORKING. BUT THE SCREEN IS STILL NOT DISPLAYING. THE DEALER SAYS THAT THE SCREEN IS GETTING SOME POWER BUT THEY ARE NOT SURE WHY IT IS NOT WORKING. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME? BECAUSE THE DEALER COULD EASILY SPEND A FORTUNE TRYING TO FIND THE PROBLEM.
I am the owner of a 2000 740i I bought second hand in february 2005. I drove it about 6K miles and reached about 110K miles overall.
My main problem is that the "Check Engine" light is always on.
My early mistake is that I did believe the salesman who told me that this was an unimportant glitch and that the Engine works well.
Indeed, it went through pollution test with success, whereas the engines revs smoothly and silently. I am just a bit disappointed by the car overall performance, as I would have expected more torque and brisker speed pickup.
The BMW repair agent is unable to give me any explanation for this light. It seems his computer does not give much over standard figures. 2 Lambda sensors have been exchanged and "check engine"light reset, but it light up again after 30-50 miles.
I had the card serviced immediately after buying it (in the BMW network) and no issue was diagnosed.
Twice, the light went out itself for a few minutes, when I was going at slow speed, but it lit up again and solid.
The on-dash computer gives me too optimistic figures by a consistent 6%. My average fuel consumption must be around 18 MPG ( 14l/100km), 20% city,50% highway, 30% smaller roads.
Does anyone has a clue?
Thank you for your inputs
thanks
MrShiftright
Host
bmw 740il car battery was died. I gave it a hot shot & it started up but I lost the display on my navigational screen, the truck release and the alarm would not work.
Magically a few days later the alarm & trunk release started working but the navigation screen still would not come on. the dealer briefly look at it & seems to
think that the screen is not bad because it has power & sight illumination. Can someone please help me. the
dealer could cost me a fortune trying to find the problem.
I know the radio must be caused by the navigation system problem but my dealer has no intention of trying to solve the problem, they want to sell me a new car at best or at worst, a new navigation system for thousands. Somehow I think there must be a better and more reasonable solution.
I am afraid your small problem could be the beginning of a bigger problem like mine.
I bought the car new, paid well over $70k when all said and done and after 5 years, this system should not be failing and if so, there should be a reasonable fix available.
Sorry I couldn't help you, but I am having similar problems. Others say when you disconnect the battery or get a jump, that is what causes the problem, but I did not have any electrical issues that could have caused this.
I recently brought it to the dealer to fix a low coolant level situation, brakes (front and back) a suspension problem, wipers, brake light and oil service (over $4k) and he tells me another $2,600 or more if I want the Nav system replaced.
HELP
Thanks
On my way home, about 20 minutes into the ride, the screen started to flicker and came back partially. It was shifted to the right with a blank non-backlit strip down the middle. It also had lots of wiggly lines flitting across the screen. Over the next couple of days the wiggly lines stopped and I was left with a split screen (shifted right) with a 1.5 inch blank strip down the middle.
I brought the car back to Prestige BMW the following week. After a couple of days of diagnosis work they called me back with the BAD NEWS. THE DISPLAY WAS SHOT. However, that is not really the BAD news. The BAD news is that THEY decided there was nothing THEY did to cause this. It was all just an unhappy coincidence.
To compound that, the replacement part is $2000 and the labor quoted at between $200 and $300. The initial deal they offered was for me to pay them their cost ($1500) and they’d pickup the labor. There is NO WAY that this part just coincidentally happened to fail while it was in their shop. To me, it doesn’t matter whether or not they know what they did to cause the failure, they should still be liable for the damage. I’m going with the preponderance of the evidence – and I don’t believe in coincidences.
After walking up the management chain a bit, I got them down to $1200 (my cost) to replace the screen. This is basically splitting the full retail cost down the middle. Although a closer look will reveal that they are eating the labor (~$150 their cost) and paying $300 of the $1500 cost of the part. They pay $450, I pay $1200.
The fact that bmwthad has almost the same problem makes my case stronger. I strongly believe there is a FLAW IN THE DESIGN of the 2001 740 that makes the navigation screen vulnerable to battery voltage and current fluctuations. If I can find other similar issue in 10 minutes of searching on the web (Thanks bmwthad) then BMW has to have seen this problem. At a minimum, there should be a service bulletin that helps the technician avoid this failure when changing the battery and perhaps even a recall to fix the problem.
And I still think they should have replaced the part a no cost to me.
I’m interested in what others think about this and welcome any recommendations regarding how to pursue a more equitable resolution.
It took a very good private mechanic and his mechanic buddy's shop to figure this out.
Ouch. But all better now.
I still would not drive another make.
Thubeav
I now have 85 on it and I have had no problems with it. The only annoying this is the cup holder.
How many miles intervals do you change your oil? 5K or more?
Dealer and usual repair shop say replace. Local transmission shop thinks a rebuild will work.
Any thoughts?
I want to replace the brake pads on my 2001 740i w/ 69000 miles. I do not care for the local BMW dealer and am looking for an independent in Memphis. Can I use any premium aftermarket pad or is the OEM pad superior? Suggestions? price paid for job?
And I noticed that it had 3 garage door opener buttons.
Unfortunately there was no manual with the car.
So I have to use my Genie Garage door opener (which of course is bulky and messes up the over all interior look of the car).
I was planning to purchase a manual, but in the meantime can anyone help? THANKS
Thanks to Mr Shiftright for brake pad info!
You mean cutting them below minimum, right? As long as the rotor is within spec, do you think there would be a problem with grinding them?