Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
i paid 41k for a CPO.
I think depending on how long the car has been on the lots i think one can push the price even lower! it was advertised for 48k
good luck.
let me know if i can be of anymore help
No, sorry there is no fluid, additive, pill, device or chemical that stops oil burning.
As for $2747 for maintenance package, it seems bit excessive. BMW 7 series needs oil change every 15K miles and brakes should last at least 35K miles. So, basically you are looking at spending $500 per year and $1500 every two years, if driven at least 15K miles/year. So for two years, your maintenance cost comes to $2500 at your dealer quote for two oil changes and brake repair. Besides, every time I had taken my car in for maintenance service, I had dealer always tells me I need extra "repairs" that usually come to more than $1K that are not covered under the warranty.
However, you do not need to go to the dealership for these services. you need to find a reputable mechanic who will do these services. I recently had rear brakes installed for $120 -- $50 for the pads, $20 for the sensors and $50 labor. Had I replaced rotors it would have been extra $130 for price of rotor but I returned the rotors because old rotors looked sparkling new and mechanic told me rotor replacement was not needed. I would change brakes on other cars myself but it's sometimes pain to take off rear wheels on these cars so I did not want to bother.
As for oil change, there is local shop that will do oil change on my car for $90. if I bring in the oil and filter, labor charge is $30. Go to pelicanparts.com and buy BMW oem filters and Mobil 1 oil. BMW holds 8.5 quarts of oil and I don't want to have to deal with disposal of 2+ gal jugs of oil.
So, my cost for your maintenance is $300 (or $430 with rotors). Where do I find these guys, you ask? I ask around friends, neighbors and search the web. I then go talk to the mechanics to see if they really know what they are talking about. When I talk to them, I tell them I can do these myself but do not want to be inconvenienced and they will not screw around with you. You'd be surprised how many incompetent mechanics but that is another story. BTW, I do all maintenance on my other cars - Toyota Highlander and Honda Accord. So basically, if you want peace of mind but don't mind getting ripped off, then go for the dealership service but in the long run, you would be so much better off finding a mechanic you can trust.
This link shows how it's done and reset the computer:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260208
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=296557
If the smoke is BLUE, then they are on the wrong track---if it's white, like steam, then they might be right.
The PCV is Positive Crankcase Ventilation, a kind of sucking device that removes fumes from your engine and reburns them. If it's plugged, your engine builds up a lot of crankcase pressure and could force oil past rings or valve stem seals.
By the way my check coolant signal is always coming on. I just filled it up a month ago and again it came up. I was reading about the head gasket and it was saying that if the Coolant is low, the head gasket gets ruined. So i was wondering whether it started from there. Do you know any Extended warranty company which is actually a really good one and not a scam? Thank you for helping me out.
Even if by chance you can prove it they have ways to wait you out and more lawyers than you
I've also noticed that my car sometimes has difficulty starting. It either takes a while or just times out and stops. Is anyone else having these issues?
What I noticed the other day is that the transmission selector diode on the console stays lit when the car is in park and turned off. I'm thinking that shouldn't be the case. Any ideas or does this ring a bell?
We also thought about the trunk light, the alarm system, and did notice the transmission selector light stayed on when the car was parked and turned off -- The transmission selector light stopped doing that once the alternator was replaced.....so look at the alternator
My drivers side Restraint System Fault light just came on what would be the problem?
Also my left low beam malfunction light came on and my husband bought new light and still doesnt work?
If you want a money pit of a car that constantly tugs at your wallet - get this car. If you want a high end car that is less costly to maintain --you might want to consider the following..
We purchased a 2006 750Li around 3 years ago CPO from the local dealership, we paid around 5-7K more at a BMW Houston North /dealer for CPO - The car in Nov 2008 went for 45K and had 35K miles. Black-on-black.
There is no doubt that the ride is phenomenal. The car weighs as much as a house.
Friends, and acquaintances will treat you different in a high end car likes this (A8,500S, LS460,Inf 56, etc). I've been called sir more times than not in part due to this car. Heck some of the time depending on your personality, and propensity to self reflect-- to this car can affect your mood. Now these are all good things except...
1) around 8 months and 9,000 miles on the car, it needed a new set of tires. That is right, this car is so heavy that it can run through tires in around 10-15K miles.
2) The BMW dealerships seem to consider maintenance even on CPO a revenue center, within a year a regularly scheduled maintenance came out to around $400.
3) Brakes were around $2,000 - normal wear and tear.
4) then came the second set of tires - $960
5) There are a few other repair items including a water pump, each time the cost was never lower than $600.
6) CPO warranty never paid for any of this wear/tear items...
7) The CPO warranty was basically worthless to us.
6) Fast forward to 2 months ago, not even 3 years of ownership.. We found that when the transmission got hot, it did some weird things. We attempted to get it fixed by someone other than the BMW-dealer (reputable - not sure now) for $1850. The mechanic could not fix it, the problem persisted and I was out $1850.
7) These are the items I can remember. There are more.
That's it, I threw my hand up and sold the thing -->Wholesale..
Would things have been different had I purchased a 2006 LS430. No Doubt, 100%.
I would still have the car and it would not have cost me 20% of what I paid to maintain the 750Li.
Buy the 7 Series Brand new and drive it til the original warranty wears out. CPO is a marketing.
If you still want a 7 series after this.. Only know that I wish someone would have told me this before I bought my 7 Series. :lemon:
No way will this car compare to a Japanese car for mile after mile durability. If you have a big commute--no way.
German engineering is overrated. There, I've said it.
My dealer isn't bad. Wife spent $5
No way will this car compare to a Japanese car for mile after mile durability. If you have a big commute--no way. If you have modest annual mileage, a desire for luxury transportation for a low overall cost, its fine. The massive massive five year depreciation on this car makes this a reasonable purchase. Mine cost $12K when it was seven years old, down from 100K new.
German engineering is overrated. There, I've said it.
My dealer isn't bad. Wife spent $500 replacing windshield wipers at dealer on Mercury Marquis. Tune up cost $800 and manifold replacement cost $2000.My BMW guy is probably better than that. Get familiar with the various BMW forums. Those guys are major gearheads and they know exactly how to maintain the car for the most economic price.
I use Kumho Platinum tires I got from Tirerack. Can't remember the price, but it was perfectly fair.
Yes, it is a vault. I LOVED having my teenage daughter drive this car.
If your car had summer tires they wear fast - just replace them with a longer-wear type.
Just curious to know if anyone has experienced an electrical issues with a 2009 BMW 750LI CPO? Are these issues covered in an extended warranty contract?
Thanks,!
You need to read the complete coverage of the plan before deciding which plan, if any, is worth the money. Some of the plans might specify what they *don't* cover, which is helpful. Most plans offer coverage levels labeled with names like "silver", "gold" and "platinum", with ascending prices, of course.
If you buy the CPO car examine the coverage (in print) to make sure you know what you're getting. A 7-series has a LOT of electrical components and is complex, so on the average you're more likely to have electrical issues sometime compared to, say, a simpler car such as a Toyota Yaris or similar car with less electrical components. That doesn't mean you'll necessarily have a lot of problems, but the possibility is greater.
For the first few months I've owned it no issues, but recently I noticed in the mornings that the soft-close doors weren't working. And at the same time the CD changer had reverted to the FM radio tuner when I started the car, even though I had turned it off the previous day with the changer engaged. (It's in a garage so I ruled out temperature) Once I started the car the soft-close doors worked fine. The problem is intermittent, but this AM the interior lights were ALL off when I opened the door, the soft-close feature didn't work, and the radio had reset again. When I saw the lights not working I thought the battery might be dead, but the car started fine.
And oh by the way, I've had a problem with the driver's window not moving down. At first I thought it was the switch or maybe the motor, but after about 5 episodes of this I think I managed to get it working AFTER moving one of the other windows first, so I suspect some system the window may be tied to.
My car appears to be more confused than me. Any observations?
Capture the URL of your photo
then, in the "post a messsage" box, click on the blue tab at the bottom marked URL---then paste in the URL of your photo, and then click on URL once again to close the script.
Your photo should appear.
I have 1998 740IL and I've had all of the problems above, plus the radio and horn went out. The steering wheel is telescoping while driving and the interior lights come on and off while driving. I understand it's the General Control Unit. There's supposed to be a recall, but I don't know where to find that infomation.
But here is the NHSTA site for searching for Technical Service Bulletins---maybe there's something in there to give you a clue.
Search for TSBs
HOWEVER, your post has given me pause - even great pause, because I have had friends who have told me never again, a BMW. Figured they were nervous nellies, but perhaps not.
Incidently, my buddy is turning his 2011 back under the Lemon Law Buyback because of electrical glitches they can't seem to fix. Guess that should be my first sign, and your message my final sign. Thanks for the info. My Lexus drives like warm wallpaper paste, but it does it every day without complaint. And I like that.
MAF sensor, Cam Pos. Sensor, checked for vacum leaks and found none. Spark plugs are not stock; when originally changed out with "stock" plugs, these stock plugs were not tightened down allegedly and stock plugs were fouled as a result so assumption was that the problem might be in the fouled plugs and they were replaced with new platinum plugs. Will the previous "fouled" plugs be worth putting back in? Can a bad control module cause all these codes and symptoms; I've had a frequent intermittent case of the ABS, Brake and DSC lights come on and disable my odometer, speedometer, and create some loss of power steering capability. I replaced driver side rear speed sensor to no avail. CPS sensors on both driver and passenger sides were replaced about a year ago. Drivers side is showing error code. Should I replace anyway?