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Nissan 350Z Prices Paid and Buying Experience
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Comments
Yep, the Z came with carpeted floor mats and trunk mat, splash guards, wheel locks, and alum. kick plate.
Dealer had the car at $34,239 at the Nissan 'Tent Sale' event. After driving it with my wife, we talked a little about it. I used the TMV here as my negotiating tool. No matter what the dealer will say, the car is worth only what the TMV tells you in my opinion. As soon as you drive it off the lot, it's going to be in the TMV range. So you need to work with your dealer to get the price down around where mine was. Otherwise you are going to lose between $1,000 and $1,600 in depreciation while financing it over the term of your car loan.
The dealer I worked with did not lose money (and I don't expect him to either). I saved him making another interest payment on the car's floorplan loan, he also has his holdback and any advertising money. He also has an inflated MSRP due to the transportation charge of $695. (No way does it cost that much to bring a car up from Norfolk to Annapolis). We had two rounds of negotiations over 45 minutes. In the end, they probably made a couple of hundred on the car, but they also got rid of their last 2006 and now can concentrate on making money on their 2007s.
BTW same model 2007 Touring Roadster with the exact same options shows a sticker MSRP of $38,975 ($300 increase over 2006).
Good luck with your dealer. It's a great car...
Am I an idiot not to take this deal. They originally purchased the car for 42K all said and done. Any problems I need to worry about? Thanks everyone!
other than eating tires, there's not much to worry about.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Jump on it. Don't worry about the tires either. Most of the 2005s were fine, it was the 2003s that most people complain about... that's a great deal...
Mechanically, this is a very good car. With 21K miles, it's hardly even broken in. You should get YEARS of fun from the car.
i have been reading most of this thread... just wanted to find out what's the best price for the base model MANUAL 6 SPEED.... in southern california... bought... and from which dealership.... any extras they threw in...
THANKS...
You might want to think about going up a notch or two to get traction control. Anecdotal evidence indicates that it's well worth it.
Personally I think they shouldn't even sell the base model as currently equipped; I wish they didn't sell any model without traction control. Wish they would include that on the base model, with interior as is, and then the folks who also want the leather interior and what-not can step up to touring if they want, but everyone will have that basic protection.
I've read in the my350z.com forum about too many serious accidents to be "oh well, so what" about the base model.
Your choice of course, just something you might do well to keep in mind.
350z touring OR G35 c premium package...
thanks
But since you're asking, here's a couple or three things to consider: this is a non-essential purchase, for you, right? As a second car I'm assuming it doesn't have to be as practical as your first car. So do you want to make this decision by emotion or by logic? By fun or by practicality?
If by emotion: which car makes you smile when you look at it and drive it? Which car makes you think "Ooh, baby, this is one sweet ride!"
If by logic: do you often need to drive with more than one passenger? Do you often need to drive it in winter weather? If so you will need to get a second set of tires for the Z, possibly can get by with all-seasons on the G35, depending where you live. My car stays in the garage if temps are below 40 (I've got summer high-performance tires on it).
Look at the trunk space. For me, I think the roadster's trunk is just fine for what I need. (Note that the coupe has that bar across the inside which can make loading a little more difficult.) I can fit in an airline-sized carry-on suitcase plus a duffel bag, or about a dozen bags of groceries. But I can't usually use this car for a Home Depot run.
So, do you need more space than that, or will that be enough for you most of the time for a second car?
My bias is, don't get a coupe at all, get the Z roadster (touring) if you live in a place where you can enjoy it at least nine months of the year. :shades:
(Not that I want to make your decision even more complicated, of course!!
350z: fast, sporty, cheaper than Infiniti, more parts available for mods...
G35: more sophisticated and luxurious, poss more costly parts and more $$ maintainence...
so do i want the cheaper (but still good) nissan sports car or a little more sophisticated one... Either I totally mod up the 350z like crazy or get g35 with some minor like kit and coilovers... it is difficult.... also the g35 is about $8K more... could used that to mod the 350z into a mean machine...
so that's where my head is...
The G35 looks like the mid-priced option of the 3 possibilities.
MSRP starting prices, depending on options:
Z coupe: high 20's to low 30's
G35: mid 30's.
Z roadster: mid 30's to very high 30's, poss. low 40's for GT edition (I know that's not what you want, just saying what the range is).
Try driving each one, preferably on the same day, and see what you think. Check out dealers' inventory on line. Some dealers do a much better job of being clear as to what they have; some just slap on the Nissan or Infiniti information page and don't indicate at all what they've got in stock.
My preference would be for the ones that are clear about what they've got. Indicates a more straight-forward, less game-playing, mind set of doing business.
MSRP was 38,280
Paid 34,192
I priced it with 4 dealers. I wanted the 6 speed and didn't care for the touring model with leather seats here in Arizona. So it's the enthusiast model. The price at all of the dealers was in the 38k range. (MSRP) They were willing to let me have the car at around 35k one dealer quoted me 34,500. I love the car my only regret is not having bought one sooner.I've had quite a few covettes and this car is way more fun to drive.
1. used <20K miles ~$30K.... own financing ~7%
2. new ~$37otd.... 1.9% financing..
which one works out better....
thanks
nick.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I bought a 2006 with 90+/- miles on it from dealer as a new car and only paid $32 for a touring model roadster. What model, year, options, etc. are on these... love to help but we'd only be shooting in the dark for now...
Dadsz
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
bout that used 350z... it's b/c has a kit and wide low offset rims on them... God, really this is a tough decision... first, it will be my second car... so it's kinda like throwing money away... second the models i like are expensive and the dealers are not even giving an offer that make me really think about it... the quotes are all similar... but this forum gives me lot of info... to compare to.. SO THANKS GUYS,,, EVERYTHING U GUYS MENTION IS VERY HELPFUL TO US FOLKS WHO HAVEN'T BOUGHT YET....
nick.
Most of the aftermarket wheels are crap for this car. You don't want to get wheels that are even heavier than stock because it will affect the balance and performance of this sports car. If you want to upgrade the wheels you should go with a forged wheel like NISMO or others. These are very expensive. The stock wheels are really pretty nice, but they weigh about 26 lbs, if you can upgrade to some lighter forged rims you will improve accel and overall performance. Also don't go with an extremely wide rear tire or you will increase understeer, unless you correct with a thicker rear sway bar.
There is just a little bit of understeer built in from the factory, it's just right for most people, but you definitely don't want to increase this especially for track use!
Good luck with your purchase. The 07 model has a significantly upgraded engine, so try to swing for the 07 models. To get a good baseline when shopping for a new model, go to carmax.com and check out the price of their new 350Zs at the Nissan store in Baltimore. You will be hard pressed to beat these prices for new models. However for a used 350, you want to try to get a better price than the used carmax prices. That would be a goal for used 350 shopping.
You never mentioned the selling price of the 350Z that you are interested in leasing. This is an important number for you as a consumer to know for two reasons. First, the selling prices of leased vehicles can be negotiated, just as if you were paying cash for them. Without knowing the price of the car that you want to lease you don't know how good a price you are getting it for. The second reason is that one needs the selling price of a vehicle that they want to lease is that it is necessary to calculate its lease payment. I would be more than happy to give you my opinion of this deal if you let me know what its selling price is.
Car_man
Host
Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
Options:
Convenience, Carpets, Kick Plate, XM radio
Total came out to a MSRP of 34690. I really want the side airbags... but I cant seem to find one with that package.
The invoice on this is 32057 on edmunds.
You guys think I can get a better price on that car or i should be happy with the invoice price....
Any help is appreciated guys.
Also whats the going APR on these cars? 6%?
As far as interest rate, there are just way too many variables. Your credit score, if you belong to a CU, etc. Check out bankrate.com.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
now final question before i pull the trigger on the car. auto or manual. i know this topic has been bashed till death....
ive driven auto my whole life and I want to go manual just because everyone tells me this car needs to be driven as a manual. I was also told this is probably a bad car for a beginner at manual since its too powerful for me. lol i know....
i just dont want to risk it because ill be driving this throughout the year even in the winter. i got snow tires and wheels already
the question is: im always travelling (auditor) and ill be driving it all the time year round. AUTO or MANUAL?
THanks!
Honestly shifting with a manual is a lot of fun on twisty country roads where there's little or no traffic. It gets old fast if you're in a major urban area with a lot of stop and go driving. With the automatic, you get basically the best of both worlds - or at least 90% of the best, since it's not quite like a true manual.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Well im from boston, and i live near the BIG DIG..... nuff said. I hit traffic almost everyday lol. I would love to get a manual but im most likely going for an Auto.
Im not racing with this car at all. Maybe on a nice day on a nice whiney road I might do something stupid, but Im getting this car for the fact that ive been in love with Zs since the 300Z came out.... you can say its my dream car.
2005 350Z Roadster Touring Automatic
6000 miles
One owner
$25,500
Anyone bought a similar car recently for a lot less?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
black on black, manual in So. Cal
What would you do and why?
Which 350z would you get. I'm looking at the base. I'm not a racer but would like a sporty car.
I am going to buy a 2007 Nissan Z coupe in black (basic Package)
This is the initial price I got
27144(invoice price) - 1500(rebate) = 25644 (plus tax and fees)
I called another dealer and they are wiling to do close to
25644-700 = 24944 (plus tax and fees)
6.79% for 5 year
good deal
Thanks Car_man, you are absolutely, most definitely the best!
So..me being a great husband, I listen to her and think...this girl has always sacrificed for the rest of us I need to get her what she wants...and deserves. So, I start looking around. I drop by the Nissan dealer and I see this solar orange Z roadster...that just happens to be an automatic. Wow...it's awesome and perfect for my wife.
So, I drag her out to the dealer the next day and she drives it. Before she gets out of the parking lot she's crying. She said "Oh my God, this care is awesome...it's what I've always wanted!" She was very emotional. I looked over at her and all I could think of was...how can I get her this car?
So...I'm working a deal with the dealer but he isn't budging much. I guess I know why...the solar orange is rare...probably rarer with an automatic.
I've only gotten him to come down a couple grand...what should I do, wait him out? It's almost winter here in Indianapolis. What is a fair price to pay? It is a roadster grand touring automatic, solar orange.
I'd probably get it if they would just come down a couple grand more.
If an '08, I'm not sure where all that money is going to come from. There is only a $3k spread between MSRP and invoice.
I think $2500 off on an '08 so early in the model year would be a good deal.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I just wanted to get your opinion. I recently bought a 2004 Enthusiasts with 39K for 18.5k out the door. Did i get a good deal?
Would appreciate your opinions.
Car_man
Host
Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
You can determine approximately how much it will cost you to get out of your current lease by comparing its purchase price to its value on the open market at this time. You should place a call to the bank that you are leasing your vehicle through to find out its exact price. Once you know exactly how much money it is going to cost you to buy your leased vehicle you need to compare it to its current value on the open market. You can find out approximately what your vehicle is worth by looking up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You also may want to stop by the following discussion: "Real-World Trade-In Values". Don't forget to check to see if you are still on the hook for your remaining lease payments. The difference between your leased vehicle's current value and how much it will cost you to buy it plus any remaining lease payments that you are obligated to pay will equal the cost of getting out of your lease right now. You may find that you are better off waiting until you are closer to the scheduled end of your lease to get another new vehicle.
Car_man
Host
Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
Let me know what this car's MSRP and approximate selling price are, or at least its MSRP and dealer invoice price, and I will be happy to use Nissan's current lease program to estimate what your monthly payment should be.
Car_man
Host
Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
The actual purchase price minus all the other stuff would be easier to judge.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Invoice: $31,379
Dont know if I should only do either 15K for 2 years or 12 for 3 years since the bumper to bumper is 36K miles? Opinions car_man?
I am in the exact same boat and I have exactly the same Question as talk2marvin...I'm Looking to lease a 2007 350Z Coupe - Touring with an MSRP of 33,840. and an Invoice of 31,291. I don't want to put money down If I can help it.
I might caveat this by saying this will be my first time to really research a car purchase like never before, and am hoping that I can get into a sweet deal on a great car. Hope you can bear with my barrage of questions.
It seems to be my assumption based on what I have read, that I want to negotiate the sales price of the car before I work out the lease numbers. Is this the right thing to do? This seems to be nearly impossible, the way dealers load their questioning with the typical barrage of, "Where do you want to be?"..etc....
Other factors and questions to this are:
1. My local dealer does not have the model I want, being the end of the year.
So do I:
A. Go to a dealer with current stock of what I want.
B. Ask him to "Go Get" me what I want.
(Will he charge me for this / Sneek in an additional destination charge? or should this be his Cost of Doing Business to gain me as a customer or lose the sale?)
2. Will it help or Hurt me in telling/showing my salesman a printed TMV form from edmunds or elsewhere. What would/ should his response be to that?
3. What to do about taxes? Should they be worked into the Lease or should I pay them upfront. Some dealers are asking me what do I want to do in terms of taxes.
4. I am comming out of a lease in Jan from another manufacturer...So far Nissan dealers have not asked to "pick-up" my final two payments as others dealers have done.
Is there a way to "not get stuck" paying two lease payments in order to jump on the chance to get an '07 leftover deal.
5. Does dealer Invoice truly mean that is what the dealer paid for the vehicle?
How does this question apply to the smaller dealers vs. the SUPER MEGA AUTOMALLS?
6. Is it Unreasonable to ask to pay invoice price or "close to it" or even "below it" on an '07 leftover in Dec '07 on a "non-luxury brand"?
7. Should I insist on knowing the Money Factor for the lease?
Thanks sooo much...hope that wasn't too lengthy..
MSRP of 35,510 Invoice of 32,481 as it has the 18" chome wheels.
Looking to see what the best deal should be on this lease.
what is the Current Money factor and Residual Value on this car.
for 36 or 48 months based on 12,000 mi/yr
The advertised lease deal is not a deal at all but more like an example...I have already gotten better pricing without haggling yet.