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I think I have enough ammunition now to go ahead and make those calls to insurance agents (ah-ha) and test drive and repeat the process as many times. Will let you guys know what I drive home with. Thanks all.
-juice
Maintenance/repairs have nothing to do with insurance premiums.
:confuse:
Quick aside on that thread above about insurance rates.. whaaaa??? Sunfire 2 door has low insurance? In my home town, that's the car all the stupid, testosterone-without-rationale, "It's a sunfire so you have to drive fast", econo-race-car-drivers drive. I'm surprised anyone would charge low insurance on that -- must be a different demographic for the area that is measured for!
If you're nervous about credit approval, you should talk to your bank or your credit union (or other lender) about financing first. You don't have to use their financing, and you are still welcome to see what the finance office at the dealership can do, but being approved for your own financing before you go to a dealership will cut down on wasted time and anxiety. You will know before you go whether you need a co-signer.
If you are buying a new vehicle, we can point you toward some discussions here in the Forums about purchasing experiences for that particular make/model. Members in those discussions are recommending dealerships at which they've had good experiences.
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They're not my top picks as far as cars go, but still.
-juice
-juice
-juice
I don't know about bringing my parents along.. they don't do any negotiating when they buy their own cars - they get a employee family discount and see who can give them the most for their tradein, but other than that, they don't do any negotiating. So I'd rather not bring them along - because they won't do any haggling, they'll make me feel less capable of haggling with them there, and then I'll look even more like a kid coming to buy a car.
I'll probably just make sure I do lots of research beforehand, and shop around to a few dealers in the area to get a good deal.. practice surely makes the experience easier to deal with..
Or you could try the old fashioned way and do plenty of research, shop around to many places and try to get a great deal.
-juice
Japanese ? Since starting to research this, the Civic seems to be unbeatable ? But I keep hearing interesting things about the Focus . Are there used Focuses ? How many miles can a Focus take ?
Best seems to be Certified Pre Owned . But do they always cost so much more ?
Does one get warrantys and all that on a used car. Pay extra for it ?
Is there a preferred Milage for someone new to this; above a certain amount of miles, someone should know more about cars before buying - used.
No money down : can this be done on a " used " car purchase ?
( We can put money down, but we're buying a house , remodeling , lawn mower , etc... )
For 36 months ( This is what my wife has always done. I just learned to drive a few years ago. I'm 53. Any reason I should think differently ? )
What kind of Interest / APR on used cars ?
1.9% interest: lowest one usually sees advertized - other than zero.
( 5.09% Capital One ) My wife ( Cathy ) has amazingly good credit.
Would love to come in at around
$230.00 Monthly
PLUS whatever Sales Tax.
AND insurance. So somewhere it was more on a used car .
Thing is : I'm a city guy ( Phila, Ny. ), work at home. Our new house is in a suburban setting . Yorktown, Ny. I'll need the car for quick drives to the store, Home Depot etc. But , we're also buying a dog , AND we travel always with our parakeet ( actually, not kidding ) so we'd probably travel the 100 or so miles to visit parents with both animals - hence the need for a hatchback / wagon . Prefer hatchback.
Wife has a Camry ; 125,000 miles ; wants to keep it for a while longer.
Used cars less miles per gallon ?
What is it with Hyundais ? Really that worthless ?
Just giving this Forum approach a shot. Hope I'm not asking to much ? Or steer me to some beginners site if you could.
Marty ( voicelit )
You can get warranties on used cars; if you get a car only a couple of years old, it may still have the original warranty left on it.
Very low interest rates are only for new cars. Used cars always carry a higher interest rate. And yes, I think 3 years is the most you would want to stretch it out on a used car. Sounds like maybe even before then you might have another new vehicle to buy.
And yes, used car prices are negotiable too just like new ones.
And don't panic! In many ways I think buying a used car there is less pressure than a new one. You sure don't get all the finance sell jobs at least. If one doesn't work out, another will always come along, especially if you're in a big urban area with a lot of dealerships. Just make sure to get any vehicle checked out by an independent mechanic.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
Honestly I think a good place to start, for you, would be CarMax. Multiple brands you can test drive on the spot with no-haggle prices, given you have no experience haggling.
-juice
Just thought someone might have a quick suggestion regarding " no down payment, interest rate, what wagon / hatchback , for around $230.00 mo , automatic 4 dr ? " Like :
" forget it " , or " only an '85 chevy " or " maybe a Mazda Protege ' 02 might do ; around such and such milage " .
So far, my research has got me interested in : Hyundai Elantra gt ' 02, Mazda Protege5 ,
Ford Focus around ' 02.
Any suggestions ?
Marty ( voicelit )
-juice
Focus, Protege 5, Vibe/Matrix
there such a price for anything worthwhile ?
Yes. My mother (about your age) bought a 2002 Protege 5 last year for 9500-10000. She loves it. A lot. :shades:
Online, when you see for instance, a used civic for $11,000 does that mean that actual price or where the negotion might start ?
There is nothing preventing it from being the actual price. I'm sure the dealer would be happy to take your money.
How much less could someone maybe actually pay ?
You can't know if an offer was too low unless you offer it and the dealer says, "no".
Japanese ?
Toyota/Honda are the reliability kings, but you can get a lot of car with an off-brand Japanese car or something American/Korean.
Since starting to research this, the Civic seems to be unbeatable ?
Not really a question, but the Civic Hatch is probably not what you are looking for.
But I keep hearing interesting things about the Focus . Are there used Focuses ?
:confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
How many miles can a Focus take ?
Focuses/Foci had lots of recall issues, but otherwise it seems like a good car. Almost bought one myself - bought a Mazda3 hatch instead. And I would be willing to bet that they depreciate like a rock, so a used Focus would be cheap.
Best seems to be Certified Pre Owned . But do they always cost so much more ? Does one get warrantys and all that on a used car. Pay extra for it ?
For $8,000, I can't imagine it would be worthwhile to get a CPO vehicle, if they even existed. You could get an extended warranty, but I'd rather take it to a mechanic before I bought it and eschew a warranty.
Is there a preferred Milage for someone new to this; above a certain amount of miles, someone should know more about cars before buying - used.
Average miles are something like 15k/yr.
For 36 months ( This is what my wife has always done. I just learned to drive a few years ago. I'm 53. Any reason I should think differently ? )
No.
( 5.09% Capital One ) My wife ( Cathy ) has amazingly good credit.
$8000 at 5.09% for 36 months is ~$650 in interest. I doubt you could find much lower for a used car.
Would love to come in at around
$230.00 Monthly
I don't know if you did the math or not, but $8000 at 5.08% for 36 months is $240 per month. Know what you can handle monthly efore going to the dealer, but I wouldn't talk monthly payments once I got there.
What is it with Hyundais ? Really that worthless ?
Hyundai and Kia both have hatchback versions of the Elantra and the Spectra. I actually sat in an Elantra hatch at the Atlanta Autoshow last month. I wasn't impressed. It seemed rather long in the tooth. It would be cheap, though. I am not a HyunKia hater - in fact, my 'other' car is a 2000 Kia Sephia bought used in 2002 for $5500. Bought with 28k miles - now has 65k.
Minimal problems other than some endemic to Sephias (battery cable, water logged headlight). It's biggest problem is that it brings unrefined to a whole new level. Even if it ran perfectly it would only come to barely adequate.
Hope I'm not asking to much ?
I have nothing to do at work now, so no problem.
Jason
[EDIT] I was composing my post before the previous two were posted. We all mentioned the Protege 5 - do great minds think alike?
Much talk of the Volkswagon Golf as a hatchback / wagon type vehicle for my purposes : dog and parakeet in back etc, now and then some long lumber etc. Much talk of Nissan as extremely affordable and reliable , but I can't find one in a wagon / hatchback except the " Quest "... which seems more a Mini-Van, though interesting, tempting.
All in all, The Mazda Protege 5 seems a real favorite . What about this " parts " not so available concern.
Marty ( voicelit )
Course, they're on the road, not in the shop, like the VW's.
I had over 120K miles on my Protege and never worried about parts, 'cause I never needed them.
Yup, same here. Got great gas mileage, fun to drive, and I never put a dime into it beyond regular wear & tear items. I think I had to replace the alternator at 89K, but we drove that sucker hard.
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For beginners, CR is a good place to start. Sure, they may not always be right, and sure, they seem to absolutely love the Accord, Camry, Corolla and Civic, but otherwise they're pretty fair and unbaised. They have a list of "Best Bets" organized by price range, so you could look at your price range and see what they recommend.
Have you thought about buying a midsized wagon? The Saturn L300 and Ford Taurus depreciate like a rock and aren't too bad, although both are pretty boring and nothing special.
Whatever car you decide on, be sure to have it checked out by a reputable mechanic and be sure to pre-arrange financing before walking into the dealership. Also, don't shop based on monthly payment. Watch the bottom line, not the payment. Dealers have all sorts of tricks to get lower monthly payments for you.
If you don't want to haggle, CarMax or the used section of a local Saturn dealer are good and comfortable places to buy, although you will probably pay a little bit more than if you bargained hard at a normal dealership.
It is not easy to buy a minivan for under 8k, but I would look hard at a 2000, maybe 2001 Mercury Villager. Twin to Nissan Quest, discontinued model, apparently reasonable realiability and durability.
Another choice may be a Taurus/Sable station wagon...
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
A gas cap for my Miata was $28. I could not find an aftermarket one that fit, so I was stuck.
Having said that I very rarely need parts, and it's 12 years old.
-juice
I am researching / looking at the ( used ' 01, ' 02 or so ) Nissan Quest as a possibility . Mostly 'cause of a conversation yesterday that promoted the quality of Nissans. Then, I coudn't find any other hatchback or wagon offered ( used ) by Nissan. Everyone constantly warning me away from any US made.
What exactly is it with this availability of parts issue ? An internet search for Mazda dealers service or whatever around the area to which I'll be moving found hardly anything. 1 or 2 dealers . This just around 30 miles north of Manhattan. Yorktown, Ny. What would I be looking for - to put my mind at ease ? Is it a thing where : I break down somewhere - and , if I had a Toyota , so many places nearby would have the parts. Or, as everyone around here says, it could just take longer for repairs as they have to send for the part ? Expense ?
Thanks for any and all of your help so far,
Marty ( voicelit )
-juice
They stopped making the Quest/Villager in 2002, as Ford and Nissan split up and decided to make their own minivans. Ford gave Mercury the Monterey, and Nissan redesigned the Quest.
A 2000-2001 MPV is a good idea too, as would be a late model Saturn L-Series wagon or a Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable wagon.
Have you thought about a crossover? You could try a Toyota RAV4 or Honda CR-V. They seem to be reliable and a 2000-2001 model shouldn't be too expensive.
The Nissan Xterra and Jeep Cherokee are decent also, although they aren't as refined as the RAV4 or CR-V.
With minivans, if you can do $200/month, you're doing great. You'll have a V6, an automatic transmission lugging a LOT of weight around, you'll have tires and brakes wearing out a lot faster, etc. So you have to figure if it's worth the extra expense and lower gas mileage to have the van.
That said, here's a benchmark for you: 6 weeks ago, I bought a 2000 Mercury Villager Estate, loaded, with 81k on the clock and in good shape. The dealer paid $6,000 at the auction, paid the fee and carted it home, and sold it to me for $6,700, making it $7,200 out the door.
The tires will do until the winter at least, the brakes are OK, but there are a few hints of rust on the inside corners of the door, and underneath. It was classified as "average" in the auction reports, which means "average". [In the classified ads, "excellent" condition describes the same thing :-) ]
I don't know that I could do any better for that kind of money. We had a 98 Sienna and still have an '03. There IS a difference in quality, but it only extends to the switch gear, as far as I can tell. A Sienna of this vintage would be $2,500 more, and not worth it, at least to me. The power train in the Nissan is very sweet.
You will definitely save $1k, maybe more, over a similar Nissan Quest, and they are the same vehicle.
Exhaustively yours.
-Mathias
But the Quest/Villager are slightly smaller than the not so mini Odyssey, Grand Caravan and Venture, so it may end up being as long as a Taurus or Sable wagon.
A good hatch/wagon will usually be a better balance unless you have 3 or more kids.
-juice
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Thanks!
Tom
Besides, you might change your mind and buy something else ...
Terry.
That's right. We had bought a new car in Florida and paid the sales tax there. When we moved to Maryland, they charged us the Maryland sales tax based on the value of the car. So we paid sales tax twice.
Sound ridiculous? That's tax laws for you. Unless you are absolutely sure what it would cost you to register a new car in Ohio, wait until you get there to buy a new car.
2) If a non-resident brings a car into the state of Ohio, they do **NOT** pay sales tax on the transaction if they can document that the sales tax was paid in the other state. But if you try to pull one over (i.e., tell the NY dealer that you are an Ohio resident), you will be paying Ohio sales tax. They look for evidence that you paid teh tax in the other state.
However, if you register the car in NY, you will still have to pay registration and title transfer fees when you move to Ohio In other words, why pay them twice?
The State of Ohio, which is trying deperately to become the highest-tax state in the country (the reason I am no longer living there), is fairly aggressive in making sure that new residents transfer licenses, titles, etc. to the state within 60-90 days of making the move. Certain municipalities will actually look at college students and the like to make sure that they are in compliance.
Tom
Before you decide where to live, I would STRONGLY recommend that you consider the taxes. You pay local income taxes to ***BOTH*** the town you work in AND the town you live in.
Send me an e-mail and I will fill you in on all of this ... which is beyond the scope of this forum.