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Ford F-250 Owners

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Comments

  • lzrdking98lzrdking98 Member Posts: 40
    The fuel mpg I get isn't relevant because I have a diesel motor and not a gas motor, to which you refer. If either rear end will meet your towing needs, I would hands down get the 3:73 rear end. It is far superior all around and will give you better mpg. Especially if you do a lot of freeway driving as the 4:10 will operate at a higher rpm. I couldn't tell you what a gas mpg is. But, diesel is about 12-16mpg. Good luck.

    Troy
  • pambripambri Member Posts: 1
    Hubby is redoing the interior of our work horse 1990 f 250 super cab 4x4. Have the seats reupolsetered and now looking to replace the plastic seatbelt covers that hold the seat belt buckle up near the seat on the bucket seats. Through the yrs of use and Florida sun they have cracked. Ford says part is dicontinued. Tried salvage yard & ebay search with no luck and multiple internet sites. Any ideas?
    love our 17 yr old truck with 200,000 miles. Thanks!
  • johnminnjohnminn Member Posts: 52
    Tried after market suppliers? Tried the north country salvage yards? We have lower UV problems because we "shed" our vehicles due to ice and snow problems. The yards up here have a large interconnected network of yards. IE If you ask them to "post" it on the network you might do better.
    Have you looked into the ones on cars which may be identical or at least very similar.
    If you aren't doing a collector restoration, then more "doors" are open.
    Let me know if you can't get into the yards up here, and I will help.
    When you inquired, what years did the belt guide cover? 1986 to 1993 for example.

    John
  • airrepairrep Member Posts: 1
    I have an 04 F250 6.0- bought it used in 05.
    06-63,000 miles White Smoke -First time in the shop in 06 for 5 weeks so they could change out the EGR and Oil cooler. Under warranty, cost 100.00 -had no other problems with it
    07-Did regular check maintenance on it for 07.
    08-120,000 miles-starting to loose coolant-found radiator hose, thermostat and water pump bad-water pump had less then 50% fins left on it-cost 1100.00 dollars. Two weeks later, the dreaded white smoke-now it is the EGR and Oil Cooler and a set of Heads for the tune of 7,800.00 dollars.

    Call Ford HQR for some help-reply "NO", did not buy the truck new and did a couple of oil changes myself.

    Ford knows they have an systemic problem with these EGR cooler and also with the fact that 50% of the fins where eroded away caused this to happen.
    Every time I did bring the truck into a Dealer to get it serviced, other F250-350 owners walked up and asked me if I have had problem with mine, 75% say they have had problem with the EGR's.

    Needless to say, I will NOT being buying any NEW Ford at all in the future.

    Really ashame as this is my 3rd F truck since 99, I like the F-serious over the Chevy but I can not afford to dump money into a POS diesel engine when the MFG knows they have a problem with it.

    :mad: I figure-10,000 dollars of my money versus 50,000.00 (New Truck) X 25 potential buyers that read this and buy Chevy or Dodge equals 1 million dollars of Fords. Not a fare trade off for me but what the hell, customer service went out the door in the USA when we join NAFTA anyway.
  • driles85driles85 Member Posts: 1
    i am gonna be in the market for a newer truck and money is a issue. i wanted to know if i should get a powerstroke or a gas truck. i would like to now what u think of both and the MPG of each. i will be plowing with this truck when i get it
  • bucmac79bucmac79 Member Posts: 4
    Hey, I bought a 2000 F-250 7.3L diesel. I have owned several gas trucks. Now that I have a Diesel I will probably never own anything but. I get about 15mpg in the city and 19 on the hwy. This is with 35" tires too. I brag to everybody about my truck. I strongly advise you to spend the little bit extra to get a diesel. Hope this helps.
  • bassassassinbassassassin Member Posts: 7
    i just bought a 2004 F250 6.0 i was wondering if there are any websites that could tell me the specs of my truck i.e. rear end torque rating HP anything. all help is appreciated
  • bassassassinbassassassin Member Posts: 7
    i was wondering if i could change my dash mounted 4x4 selector to a floor mounted lever selecter
  • p10leadmanp10leadman Member Posts: 40
    I am determined to run this truck until it can not run no more.That maybe sooner than I think. Yesterday $450.oo for 2 rear brake drums and hardware to fix the emergency brakes. Today $1400.oo to replace both exhaust manifolds and hardware.Next is sheet metal body repairs, 2 new front fenders, and bed repairs. The front ball joints and axles are aboutshot to. The engine was re-manufactured 3 yrs ago along with a new oil pan. The tranny was rebuilt 5 yrs ago, a new rear gas tank was installed last year, the saddle tank will be replaced next month...I got a brand new saddle tank free from a guy who bought it, and decided to junk the truck instead..guess he's smarter than I. The truck has a grande total of 112,692 miles on it, FORD TOUGH !
  • keith36keith36 Member Posts: 1
    i have a small leak behind turbo. does anyone have an idea what it might be and how to fix it?
  • ford4meford4me Member Posts: 2
    I am interested in hearing from 08 Ford F 250 owners with the new 6.4 diesel engine. I'd like to hear how many MPG you are getting in city/highway. Also would like to know what gear ratio you are running. I am considering an 08 F250 4x4 supercab short bed with the 6.4 diesel and an auto trans. and 3:73 gears. I would like to hear from owners with similar setup about MPG and any other major troubles. Thanks.
  • fray1955fray1955 Member Posts: 1
    my 2008 f250 superduty 6.4 lt diesel is putting fuel onto the engine oil. Three lt in six thousand miles. The dealer and ford tell me thats normal, but there only fooling themselves. The high pressure fuel pump has been replaces, with no results. Is there anyone else having this problem
  • ferrussonferrusson Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 F250 FX4 (5.4L V8) with Flowmaster exhaust. I would like to replace the stock exhaust manifolds with a set of headers to make it sound even better. I am not sure what I should be looking for (shorty's, y pipes, longs ect.). I am having trouble finding applications to fit my truck also. Does anyone have any advise?
  • mschmalmschmal Member Posts: 1,757
    If you are "considering" the 6.4 Diesel. You IMHO should not buy it.

    Either you need the power and towing capability of the Diesel, or you don't.

    From everything I've heard from owners and on these Forums, there is little meaningful difference between 5.4L V8, 6.8L V10 or the 6.4L Diesel MPG.

    Get the engine that matches your needs.

    Its a $7,000 upgrade to the diesel, that buys a lot of gas,

    IF gas gets to $4 a gallon, $7k will buy you 1750 gallons and at 10 miles per gallon, that buys you a year of gas and them some.

    Mark
  • lzrdking98lzrdking98 Member Posts: 40
    I wouldn't do this. There is no reason to. If it isn't broke, don't fix it. If you don't know what you are looking for, you probably don't know what you are doing either. I would not do this. The headers will not make that much of an increase in sound, but it could change the compression of the engine and it's ability to off gas. Not to mention create more leaks at the gasket sites where the headers meet the exhaust. I wouldn't do it kid.
  • ferrussonferrusson Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the input. I have been told that before. I don't think I will get them. I will just fix the original gaskets. Is this a job a "do it yourselfer" could handle? I don't want to tear anything up in the process. The truck never gets drivin in the rain but still shows signs of rust on the manifold bolts.Would it be better to remove them with an impact or a regular ratchet.
  • lzrdking98lzrdking98 Member Posts: 40
    No problem. That is what this great forum is about. Helping one another. I think you made a wise choice. You should be able to switch out the gaskets. The problem with that is there are a lot of things in your way. That engine can be complicated. You probably already know this, but Ford manifold bolts have had a lot of problems with rust. In fact I reccomend replacing these bolts all together and using a ratchet system for this. An impact gun can shear the bolt heads off because of the massive torque. So, get some new gaskets and bolts and gasket sealer and away you go. I hope this helps you out. Have a good day and good luck.

    Troy
  • johnminnjohnminn Member Posts: 52
    Do be sure to carefully torque the bolts carefully and in the proper sequence. The most common pattern is a helix starting at the center and working outward.
    I prefer to do that last 20# of torque in 5# increments.
    Some feel that is being “just too careful”, but I have never had a gasket failure after I have done it that way. Even when the “experts” told me I would have to have the heads and manifold trued.
    Granted, I do check them with a straight edge to make sure that they are not badly warped.
    DO check the new headers to be sure they are true. I have seen new ones which were not properly milled.
    DO be sure to find out if their torque spec is with wet (oiled) or dry bolts.
  • smoothride4mesmoothride4me Member Posts: 13
    I have an aluminum 2 horse trailer which I tow with my 1999 ford F250 7.3 diesel.. Complete weight of the trailer with the horses in it are about 4000 pounds, Now I am looking to put a Lance cabover in the bed of the truck weighing about 2000 pounds, Would I be able to have the cabover and pull the horse trailer without boosting up the rear suspension?
    Thanks for any help I can get!!!
  • fordisthebest1fordisthebest1 Member Posts: 5
    HELLO I HAVE A 1999 F-350 CREWCAB, LONGBOX, 4X4, 3:55, SINGLE WHEEL, 6 IN LIFT and 6IN EXHAUST

    I was wondering if anyone has converted to veggie oil yet, I am thinking I might. I was also wondering what chip works the best to improves millage.
    By the way for all you ford owners out there I average 22.5 on a flat surface driving 58. In town I average 16. I drive alot in the summer with the truck and on 300 mile trip I average 20-21 with out a chip. I have been told that the 6.4 has plastic injectors and the 6.0 block cracks around 130K; my cousin works at a ford dealer. I know alot of people where I live have kept the 7.3 because the 6.0 is [non-permissible content removed]. If I where to buy a new truck I would get a Dodge, But I love mine to much to ever get rid of it.
  • fordisthebest1fordisthebest1 Member Posts: 5
    I would get the 7.3 in a 1999, best mpg and the 6.0 is crap. I have a 1999 F-350 crewcab 4x4 and I average 20-22 on the highway and 16-17 in town, without a chip. 1999 has only had one recall and is a hell of smother the a 1997 and down.
  • fordisthebest1fordisthebest1 Member Posts: 5
    I has wondering if any one has converted to veggie oil yet and what you think about it?
  • fordisthebest1fordisthebest1 Member Posts: 5
    HELLO I HAVE A 1999 F-350 CREWCAB, LONGBOX, 4X4, 3:73, SINGLE WHEEL, 6 IN LIFT and 6IN EXHAUST

    I was wondering if anyone has converted to veggie oil yet, I am thinking I might. I was also wondering what chip works the best to improves millage.
    By the way for all you ford owners out there I average 22.5 on a flat surface driving 58. In town I average 16. I drive alot in the summer with the truck and on 300 mile trip I average 20-21 with out a chip. I have been told that the 6.4 has plastic injectors and the 6.0 block cracks around 130K; my cousin works at a ford dealer. I know alot of people where I live have kept the 7.3 because the 6.0 is [non-permissible content removed]. If I where to buy a new truck I would get a Dodge, But I love mine to much to ever get rid of it.
  • johnminnjohnminn Member Posts: 52
    On my Ford F350 dually I have found the automatic/manual cab controlled air bag load levelers to be a great asset.
    No matter what type of load I am carrying, and or pulling, I can set the pickup level.
    The biggest advantage to using the air bags over booster or heavier springs (which I have used in the past) is that I have a good ride at all times, loaded or unloaded. I have had no failures in the air bag system in 87,000 miles. I would highly recommend them. Don’t buy a “good cheap” set as have some other drivers I know..
    They are neither good nor cheap in the long run. I also use a very good set of tires which also improves the ride and stability of the unit.
  • johnminnjohnminn Member Posts: 52
    My neighbors have been using used vegetable oil in 2 Dodge pickups and a couple of utility tractors for over a year now, and I have heard no complaints They process their own vegetable oil. They have a contract with a number of fast food restaurants and a commercial food provider for about 1500 students. The containers they provide to the vendors are about 42" plastic cubes in a steel mesh cage on a permanent "pallet". They started out with re-using the 5 gallon containers the oil came in but found that to be too messy and time consuming. Those plastic "bottles" seemed to get weakened with the hot oil being put in them, and some of them would "pop" when they were handling them. When the "bottles" are empty, you have to deal with that problem and the cardboard box they come in.
    I will ask them about any problems they have had, but I don’t think they have any complaints as I do work with them regularly. I don’t think they run straight vegetable oil when they are pulling loads. I’ll ask and fill you in.
  • jendabijendabi Member Posts: 1
    I drove to Dallas from Houston this weekend. I have a 2005 F-250 PSD. My turbo quit giving boost (gave very little) and it took forever to accelerate from 60-80. Had the issue start about mid way through the drive up. Now everything seems to be fine. Drove all the way home and during the whole weekend with no problems. Any know what the issue could have been.
  • willyd88willyd88 Member Posts: 3
    I just bought the above vehicle and I am wondering the best way to get fuel milage.
    I was debating on putting in a chip, or doing the K&N filter kit. I have heard on the the diesels that fords factory filter system is as good as, if not better than the K&N

    If a chip is the way to go, what is a good one to go with to get the best milage and power?

    Thanks
  • lzrdking98lzrdking98 Member Posts: 40
    Dear Willy,

    First of all the stock air cleaner is not the quality of the K&N product but it will suffice. Lastly, the best program out there to chip your truck is the Hypertech. You can go to their website at www.hypertech.com. This program will increase power, torque and MPG. But, be realistic. You have a truck and it weighs a lot, your mpg will never be over 18mpg. Good luck

    Troy
  • captucaptu Member Posts: 1
    I have 6,000 miles on mind. Towing a 32' travel trailer I'm getting 8.6 miles per gal. and 16 to 16.9 on the road light. Not good. Ford is telling me sometime this month the Gov. will let them do something to the eng. to get better fuel milage.
  • cacciato69cacciato69 Member Posts: 6
    HELP!!
    I have a 1995 F-250 4X4 ... the clutch went out and i had it replaced.

    Shortly thereafter the speedo / odo stopped working. I cannot locate the sensor on the trany as is indicated in my manual? I have crawled all over under the truck looking for anything that looks like a sensor.

    I ordered one it arrived, but I cannot locate anything that looks like it on the transmission, the rear differential

    Where is it??? Is there one??? on this truck!?
  • cacciato69cacciato69 Member Posts: 6
    Ok i am new to this site ... i did a search for speedometer AFTER posting .. as i read those posts it appears that the sensor IS the one on the rear differential and it feeds both the ABS and the Speedo. Since i have no problem with ABS indicator, I am left to believe that i have a fuse, wire or the Speedometer / Odometer in the dash failed by coincidence with the replacement of the clutch.

    Any ideas where to start ... remove the dash?? yikes that doesn't sound fun.

    Advice accepted ...
  • cacciato69cacciato69 Member Posts: 6
    the fuse must have blown when the speed sensor went.

    found the fuse in the cab 15a blown we'll see if that fixes it permanently.

    on the other hand it could be the A/C clutch since A/C seems to have failed

    thanks
  • greywolff127greywolff127 Member Posts: 2
    we chicken grease in the mac trks at work and my boss has a 250 desiel, he change his fuel filter several times in the week but now works fine, and yes it is chicken grease..
  • greywolff127greywolff127 Member Posts: 2
    i just got a 99 f 250 i have a fuse that blows 4 the gages and i cant start it in park has to be in neutral, is there a safty switch that can b replaced 4 the starting in park
  • davegr1davegr1 Member Posts: 3
    I just purchased a 2004 F250 SD 4x4 w/Deisel power. 41k in milage It has the 6.0, I cannot belive the power of the truck. I had a 250 w/ the 5.4 previous to this. Love this thing. Now my question, The previous owner had installed a K&N airfilter system, and 4 in exhaust, it exits right below the rear door. (super Cab). I looked at it, and it seems to be a striaght pipe from the turbo to the tip. Sounds good, but I was wondering if this okay for power or robbing me of power. Also the light with the water drops flickers and some times will stay on for a few miles. (fuel filter change?) okay last question for the newbie, what is the buzzing noise when I turn the truck off? it shuts off after 30 sec or so. Thanks .. By the way I plan to tow my 5 wheel, 8700lbs w/this truck. 8700k is the loaded wieght...
  • keroburnerkeroburner Member Posts: 11
    I also have the 2004 F250 diesel. As to your water in fuel gauge, there is a fuel filter under the driver's side inside the frame rail. Owners manual will explain how to drain a little fuel to see if you have water in it. Couple of other tips: don't let this engine idle very long when it is cold. This puts unburned fuel in the variable pitch on the turbo and will ruin it. Ford calls this "wet stacking". Also, don't let your turbo boost go past 25 lbs. or you will blow hoses. I put a boost guage on mine. Last but not least, don't put a chip on this engine or you take a chance on blowing your head gaskets. Ford has had a lot of problems with this engine, but most of them can be avoided by using a little common sense. I too tow an 8500 lb. trailer and love the way it tows.
  • davegr1davegr1 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. I was thinking about the programmer, but I will refrain. I did a milage test today. drove 200 miles to waste deisel. Averaged 21.5 no load. Pretty good in my book. anyway, thanks again..

    Dave.. :shades:
  • mdx9mdx9 Member Posts: 1
    I now have the same problem steering squeaking with my gas 2004 F- 250. Did you solve the problem? It sounds like metal on metal. From what i've read it's a common F-250 problem...

    Anyone know of a solution to the noise??
    :confuse:
  • mjcawoodmjcawood Member Posts: 1
    I currently have a F150 supercab which I use to pull a 28' fiftwheel. I does ok on flat level roads, but can tell it is a strain on it. Want to be able to pull in the mountains, so looking at a F250, 5.4 V8 with the 4.10 rear axle. I read that it is capible of pulling 10,800 lbs. Would you recommend going this route? My fifthwheel loaded, is around 9000 lbs. Of course I know the larger engines would be best, but also concerned about fuel cost. This is my only truck and use it all the time.
  • lzrdking98lzrdking98 Member Posts: 40
    I would immediately stop pulling your fifthwheel with your current set up. It is unsafe and your tranny, truck and engine are not set up for that weight. As for your next purchase. I would forego the gas motor and purchase a diesel. Also, a 3:73 rear end is fine. You don't need a 4:10 especially if it's your only truck and your going to be bopping around in it. Don't worry about fuel costs. Your safety and the safety of your family should be first. No one tows a 9000lb rig with a gas motor. Spend the extra cash and do it right. I have a 2006 f250 diesel 3:73 and I pull an 8500lb travel trailer like it's not even there. Good luck

    Troy
  • davegr1davegr1 Member Posts: 3
    I had the same setup. My fifth was loaded to 8500#. I had a F250 , 5.4 with the 3.73 gears. Would do okay on the flats, but up hill was murder. I got around 8 mpg towing. 2 weeks ago I came across a SD PSD , 04 model. It pulls the rig along like my 4 wheeler trailer on my old truck. Like lzdking stated above, The fuel cost is nothing compared to the saftey of your loved ones. I will never go back to gas.....
  • otisthedogotisthedog Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 f250 4wd with 75000 miles on it. I get a bad vibration on acceleration from about 1700 rpms. If I step on the accelerator pedal, I get the vibration, when I release it goes away. I needed new tires, and actually put new tires and rims on, and it is still there. Any ideas?
  • lzrdking98lzrdking98 Member Posts: 40
    If your front end is alligned and the rims and tires are dialed in. I would be more inclined to say it could be a worn or bad motor mount. Because of the torque with these engines and the way you describe it. Have your mounts checked to be sure they are not worn or loose. Good luck to you.

    Troy
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    vibration from tires would be speed specific not rpm. if it is an auto trans. that may be the problem. the motor mount thing is a good possability also.
  • willyd88willyd88 Member Posts: 3
    I agree with motor mount or a bad U-joint. I have had both of these cause me vibration problems during acceleration.
  • crap1crap1 Member Posts: 1
    Is their a full intake kit out for 2008 f-250 5.4L,or any good ways to retro a k&n or other type from intake to air box ? also Jet makes mass air flow replacement is it worth while ? thanx
  • willyd88willyd88 Member Posts: 3
    I have a K & N on my 6.5, and it was easy to do, it also replaced my existing airbox and all lines connected.
  • lynard007lynard007 Member Posts: 10
    be careful, watch your water temp gage if you see it going up a little back off on it mine has the same setup and I already blew my head gasket pulling a camper. I need those other gages exhaust temps and psi its easy to over heat with the extra power going up a big hill I do plan on getting the gage setup but the water temp is all you have now mine is an 2003 6.0 you should have your fuel filter changed every 15000 miles also i just got some trash in mine and drained it out right under drivers door on the inside of the frame if you have a 4x4 like i do its tuff not to get some on you because of the front drive shaft
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