Ford F-250 Owners

kvirt · January 2005

F250- the worst vehicle I have ever owned.

Mechanical issues:

1. Lockouts changed at 70K

2. Motor to shift to 4w changed at 75k

3. Blown spark plug out of cyl. head at 85K

4. Constant issues w/electrical

    a. Fuel gauge shows empty when full sometimes

    b. Passenger door powerlock doesn't always work

    c. Overhead console display shows empty tank when full;

    d. Shows 200+ miles left when tank low

Overall, I've spent more money on this truck than all the Toyotas I've had combined. That includes 1 that went 225k, 1 215k, 1 98k (current), 1 150k

PF_Flyer · January 2005

I've never owned an F-Series or Toyota truck... were you doing the same work with the Ford as you were with the Toyotas?

PF Flyer

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ford58 · January 2005

In July 2004 we purchased a new F250 with the 6.0 powerstoke diesel. I vehicle begin to have problems 2 weeks after we purchased the truck. It has been in the repair shop 7 times. The dealer says they cannot duplicate the concern.

We called Ford manufacture also. They are not going to do any thing. We are checking other options to see what we can do about this situation.

Does your truck have over 24,000 miles on it?

Your not alone...

toomanyfumes · January 2005

Maybe someone here with F-250 knowledge can help me out. My friend recently bought a used F-250 from a local used car dealer.I think it's a 1997. The wierd thing is, it has the rounded body style like the F-150. I've yet to see another one that looks that way. I even looked at all the F-250's on E-bay and they all have the more squared off shape. Did someone switch the tags on this thing or did Ford actually make some this way?

mullins87 · January 2005

Yep, what your friend has is the F-250 LD(Light Duty). I don't remember the years, I'm thinking '97 and '98, Ford built these. Basically they are a "heavy 1/2 ton" like what GM built years ago. Back a couple of years ago you could still get the same truck, only it was badged as an "F-150 7,200". The "7200" referred to its towing capacity.

The F-250's that you're seeing on Ebay are the larger F-250's that shared the bodystyle with the F-350's and the '92 thru '96(or was it '95?) F-150's. The 250's and 350's changed their bodystyles with an early '99 model, which was really in '98.

toomanyfumes · January 2005

Thanks for the reply. I think I was making him nervous; we've both been trying unsuccessfully to spot another one. Anyway, he's happy with the truck, it has a nicer ride than any other 3/4 ton I've ridden in.

guppygetter · January 2005

I have 04 250 6.0l diesel with the heavy springs and I tow a 26' 5th wheel and a boat and I also drive it in town alot to get to work. I would get the heaver springs and stabilizer bar because ounce you buy a truck over a half ton its going to drive like a lumber wagon anyway. I have had my truck 8 months and I love it and it drives great . I had a 03 250 5.4 gas and it drove just about the same as my diesel.

r. w · January 2005

Just purchased a 05 250sd with the diesel. Picked up at dealer 01/08 drove home about 20 miles. Took off this morning after about 15 minutes I started losing power going about 65.

I coasted off the road and when I came to a stop with my foot on the brake the engine died. I waited a minute and started it up and took off again about 3 miles later the same thing happened. Took off again stopped at a couple of stores with my brother following me. We switched trucks and he said he lost power but it did not cut off. Also I started feeling dizzy and sick after driving and noticed a fume smell coming in through the dash vents with the climate control on. Will take back to the dealer tomorrow. Has anyone experienced anything like this? I know they had a lot of problems and claims with the engine but thought they were all resolved now.

kyboy · January 2005

DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A RECALL ON THESE TRUCKS. SOMEONE TOLD MY FATHER THERE WAS ONE,BUT I DONT THINK IT IS TO RELIABLE. ANY INFO APPRECIATED.

yhc · January 2005

Good evening. I have '04 F-250 w/ diesel engine. I have noted that while I warm up the engine, the RPM would start out at around 600 but about a minute into it, it would rev up to 1,000 RPM and stays up there even after 10 minutes. RPM only climbs down when I tap on the gas pedal. I recently was at a dealership for service for the problem as well as for engine dying on me once while driving @15 mph. The service department replaced some sort of fuel valve stating that it was "sticking" and "should resolve the problem". However the RPM persists to increase during idling(thankfully the engine has not died on me again) and when I did go back to the dealer recently for the second time, I was then told that "Oh, it is suppose to do that". This is my first diesel engine vehicle so I am not too familiar with what the "normal" behavior of a diesel engine is. Has anyone experienced such problem? Thank you in advance for your time and opinion.

mullins87 · January 2005

Your increased idle speed while the engine is cold and/or during cold weather is normal. Diesel engines can "wet stack". This is a condition where the combustion chamber temps. aren't high enough to completely burn all the fuel. Over time you start to get a build-up in the cylinder and it can cause problems. The computer automatically puts the engine into a higher idle to increase the cylinder temps. to help prevent this problem. As a nice bonus, it helps your heater to work sooner. As you found out, tapping the accelerator pedal will bring the idle back down. Tapping the brake or clutch pedal will do the same, as well as releasing the parking brake.

jf067 · January 2005

My 04 SD diesel had a 2-300 fluctuation in RPM also. It seems to have cleared up somehow, but it happened often with less than 6k miles on the truck, and usually while I was idling at a light or stop sign. I too had it at the dealer 3 times. They found nothing of course, but a friend bought an 04 350 with the same powertrain. While he was up in VT his started doing the same thing, then it started losing power.

A dealer up there found a bad EGR valve he said. Since replacement it has been fine. Mine does it so infrequently now that it doesn't even bother me, I never noticed any dramatic power loss on the road though.

jf067 · January 2005

My engine doesn't seem to have all the power people rave about until after the turbo winds up. Before that it feels like I'm accelerating with a v-6 ? Once up to highway speed (@2000 RPM) it feels fine and will hold it's speed with ease.

I've heard people describe these engines as rubber burning power-houses? (I must have got the sister engine).

Anyone using a chip? I'm trying to find something to give it a little more grunt on take-off.

r. w · January 2005

Two injectors were bad new from the factory, truck has been in shop for a week waiting for parts. I hope that clears up the fumes coming into the cab problem.

yhc · January 2005

Thank you for your replies, mullins87 & jf067. The valve that was replaced in my truck was indeed EGR valve as well. Have a great weekend.

coloradod · January 2005

What year truck do you have? Is this the 7.3 or 6.0 engine. My 7.3 lacks the power it should have, and I also am considering chipping it. I've been through a ton of diagnostics (both from Ford and a private shop). No good answers yet, but I can tell you the list of things they look at.

I can state from experience that Ford is not very responsive on power problems. They refer to them as 'driveability' issues. They fight tooth and nail to keep from paying for engine repairs - at least that is my experience. Partly as a result of this deal, I got a new Dodge Cummins 2 months ago. Good luck.

mullins87 · January 2005

A diesel relies heavily on the boost created by the turbo for much of its "kick in the pants" power. At lower engine speeds the turbo just can't get up to speed to produce enough boost. Mine also starts to really get it over 2k rpms. You can put it an aftermarket intake and exhaust system to help flow more air. That can help the turbo come up to speed at lower rpms. When I want to surprise a rice burner at a stop light, I just make sure that I don't shift until about 2,600 rpms.

jf067 · January 2005

Thanks Jim and Coloradod,

Coloradod, Mine is an 04 w/6.0L automatic. Jim, I see what you are saying about the RPMs. It does come to life at that point; I was just investigating something less expensive than the intake/exhaust solutions you mentioned. What I wondered is whether or not a chip could get the turbo up any sooner? I thought I saw something about how the pitch of the turbo vanes was adjusted by the computer? Or are we solely depending upon the exhaust flow here?

mullins87 · January 2005

Adjustable compressor vanes?? That sounds NEAT!!! Mine is a 7.3 and they aren't adjustable, your's may be. A chip will help its performance a great deal. I have a 75hp/150ftlbs chip from Western Diesel on mine and I LOVE IT. Made all the difference in the world to mine.

jf067 · January 2005

Thanks Jim, I'm going to look into that. Here's a little about the variable vanes which I believe started on the 03 6.0 -

The electronic variable response turbocharger (EVRT) on the Power Stroke uses a set of pivoting vanes that surround the turbine to optimize and control an almost infinitely adjustable airflow to the turbo compressor. When traveling at high speeds, climbing steep grades or at altitude the vanes close together to route more airflow through the turbine. At low speeds the vanes open to provide better engine response.

There is a great cross-section photo of it at http://palmettotruck.com/6ldiesel.htm if you're interested.

mullins87 · January 2005

I'm glad you posted that link. I just didn't realize so many changes were made for the 6.0L. I was really surprised to see the 4 valve heads and EGR system. But as for the turbo, really interesting, but I sure would hate to replace one.$$$

stumped-me · January 2005

Hey y'all my friend is stuck on the road right now. stopped for fuel, now F-250 Power Stroke won't restart. Acts like it isn't getting fuel. He has changed the fuel filter on top of engine to no avail. Suggestions please. Thank y'all, Stumped-me

wpalkowski · January 2005

LIttle bit late for this reply to help. But where are you writing from? If you're anywhere North of the Mason-Dixon line - he could have had a problem with his Diesel fuel gelling up in the lines. Does your buddy add anti-gell additive to his fuel in the winter.

Where I am, they change over to a winter- blend diesel that resists gelling up to a point. But this past weekend we had -10 degrees, and the wind was gusting to 50+ mph.

connon1 · January 2005

re; wpalkowski... what do you mean by resists gelling " up to a point"? I live in No. NJ. and buy fuel almost always at the same dealer and to date(2nd winter with this truck) have not used any additives.We've hit zero several times so far and no problems yet. Should I be worried and what brand names do you recommend? BTW, 04 6.0 f250. thanks.

jatwater · January 2005

Don't worry, you don't have the "little sister". Your truck came with the turbo set at 14 pounds. Your selling dealer's service department can boost this by their computer. I had mine turned up to 19 pounds. It makes a world of difference in the acceleration. You will hear the whistling sound more once it has been turned up. Try this on your "little sister".

wpalkowski · January 2005

Sounds like gelling to me. The cloud point/gell point depends on how the fuel is blended or treated. It can happen well above 0 degrees. What happens is that the diesel fuel actually becomes "waxy". In combination with moisture, the heavier compounds in the diesel fuel precipitate out of solution with cold temperatures. This wax clogs the filter (a lot of times you experience a slow loss of power). An antigel additive will keep the wax in solution, (but not necessarily force it back once it's formed). If you can put the truck in a heated shop until it warms up, the wax will go back into solution also.

All it takes is someone to screw up somewhere along the diesel fuel distribution system for the station to get a poorly blended/treated batch. If their tanks are in the ground, they will not know there is a problem until you put the fuel in your tank and let it cool. Diesel fuel should be treated for the region of the country that it is sold but, it is apparent by these posts about fuel gelling every winter that the proper treatment sometimes does not happen. Treat your fuel yourself or take your chances!

Diesel Fuel Additives go by names of Power Service, Stanadyne and several others. You can find them a big-truck stops, and even Autozone, PepBoys & Walmart sell their own brands of diesel fuel treatment that's also an anti-gel. (Read the label of the store brands, avoid them if they contain alchohol) These will additives will prevent gelling from starting. However, if you've been stopped because of gelling, there's a product called Power Service "911" that will dissolve the wax and get you running again. Comes in a bright red bottle. Pricey, but worth it if you start to gel. Of course a 1/2 a bottle of regular Power Serve at each and every fill-up helps. If you're using good quality blended fuel, conditioner, and filling up at about 3/8 of a tank, your doing all you can. Buy your fuel where the big rigs go, at least you know that they have a high turn over of their product and the pro truckers will let 'em know real fast if they got a bum load of fuel.

Hint: Dead give away that you may be in trouble for gelling is if you see ice crystals in the filler neck after removing cap...moisture is present, and you need to address this or pay the price. Hope all is well with your rig. Winter is tough on equipment.

silvershark · January 2005

The Super Duty Heated mirrors suck with no switch to turn off the heaters. Just got done driving in snow storm and mirrors boiled the road spray off the surface leaving the mirror un-usable with in 15 min. note the un-heated curved mirror on each side were fine. Has any one put a switch on the mirror circuit yet? If so what did you do? Hint to FORD please offer a switch for the heated mirrors.

jf067 · February 2005

Thanks, I wasn't aware of that. I'll look into it.

f250 · February 2005

I have a 2001 F250 with remote entry. I have noticed that it works only some of the time. I changed the batteries and it only locks or unlocks when I am sitting in the vehicle and press one of the buttons. It hardly ever works from outside the vehicle. Any suggestions?

3dale8 · February 2005

I have a 2001 F250 w/5.4L V-8. There are days when it will not idle.....sometimes all day. Then there are other days that it will idle in the morning and then won't in the afternoon. Has anyone had this problem. Thank you....Ken in Biloxi

wpalkowski · February 2005

Ken

   The I.A.C. - Idle Air Control valve is probably the culprit - it seems to be the weak link in all the modular engines. It gets clogged up with carbon, etc. then motor won't idle worth a darn.

   Is check engine light on? When valve gets bad enough, the engine will usually start reporting error codes.

   Repair is relatively easy, and part isn't that expensive.

If it itsn't the IAC, check for dirty air filter, and leaks in one of the vaccuum lines.

doug10 · February 2005

please send me information on FW-16 and fuel filters online web sites. thanks

david1247 · February 2005

Does anyone have any problems with 04F250 tranny ? Ford had a recall on it so they changed it aftyer a week in the shop , than after 70 miles it went out again and they changing it yet again. i have 7030 miles on it , mainly cross country driving.

connon1 · February 2005

I had the dashboard icon for water in fuel flashing intermittently a couple of times this week. It would only happen when it was very cold and during a sharp left turn. Of course this unnerved me so when I finally got the chance and a dry place to crawl under the truck I followed the owners manual instructions for purging the filter/water trap. bled approx. 16 oz of fuel into a cup(till it ran dry)so I could examine it and wound up with a very miniscule amount of water, literally a drop or two.The manual said the warning light would come on when 200 cc's of water accumulated so what gives?Time to go to the dealer for diagnostics? I have had nagging little electronic problems with this truck since I bought it, mostly with the keyless entry and door key pad but after replacing the module for the door every time the dealer tries to trace a problem they find nothing. If it does not happen right in front of them they cannot help!04 crew,6.0 King ranch with 15500 miles.

turn2left · February 2005

Gentleman, I have a stall problem with my 2000 F-250. When I slow down or start to accelerate the engine will cut off. It will re-start with no problem. This happens once or twice a day. Never had it happen during normal operating speeds. Any and all help is appreciated. Engine has 150,000 miles.

Thanks

mullins87 · February 2005

I get all of my coolant additives and fuel filters from this place: www.dieselpage.com

The name of the business is Diesel Injection Services and they are out of Texas. I have never received anything less than excellent service from them and their prices beat anything I can find locally.

mullins87 · February 2005

Well, first off, the factory fuel filter/water separator is not very efficient at stopping water, at least not on the 7.3's anyway. The 6.0's may have a much better separator on board, but I doubt it. Your best bet is to install a dedicated fuel/water separator between the tank and fuel pump. Racor makes several very popular and efficient models.

Where are you getting your fuel? I would try another supplier. You need to buy your fuel from a truck stop that turns over a LOT of fuel on a daily basis. C-stores and "mom and pop" stations are notorious for having water in their fuel. I get my fuel from a truck stop that sells over 10k gallons a day. Not only has my light never come on since I switched to this truck stop, I have pulled my tank and found no water there either.

mullins87 · February 2005

Well, it could be the camshaft position sensor. Those do tend to go out unexpectedly with some intermittant problems like you mentioned. However, from what I've been told, they usually don't last very long once they start to give you trouble.

connon1 · February 2005

I dont think water in the fuel is the problem here as I really found almost none.I think it is more of an electrical problem.I have been fueling at the same local station for 2 years which is probably the only local source for diesel . the small amount(literally just a drop) of water I found can probably be attribted to condensate from sitting in the cold with a quarter tank.I'll just have to keep an eye on it. Anyhow ,thanks for the input Mullins87.

turn2left · February 2005

Thanks for the advice! I will see if this is the problem and let you know.

Thanks again, Eric

pilot3 · February 2005

IT SOUNDS LIKE A CPS [CAM POSITIONING SENSOR MY 2000 7.3 HAD IT GO OUT AT A HUNDRED THOUSAND MILES IT SEEM NOT TO HAVE RHYME OR REASON BUT WOOD CRANK BACK UP . HOPE THIS HELP . VERY EASY TO REPLACE 15 MINUTE JOB >>

kubotaman · February 2005

Ok guys need some advice. I have read every post. I am getting ready to buy a new F250 w/6.0 Powerstroke. Saw demo trailer at dealer yesterday and engine seems to be upgraded to bullet proof. I plan to use this truck casually (I have a work truck). I tow a Kubota tractor about twice a month on a 16' trailer, total weight 6,000 lbs. dealer says I won't even know I am towing. I also will be taking the truck to my fishing cabin twice a month, 400 miles round trip. I feel I can justify the powerstroke because of the long road trips. Should I stay with a gasser or does it make sense to upgrade to the powerstroke?

hennigan · February 2005

I was directed here by the hosts...any help will save me! The truck is shutting down when it reaches operating temperature. This began right after I filled up at a station that I had never used before. Changed the filter, to no avail. I am not fully up on diesels but can make my way around an engine pretty well. Thanks in advance for any insights.

wpalkowski · February 2005

Have you drained the fuel line water separator? Owner's Manual tells how to do it.
Put a bottle or two of Diesel Fuel treatment into tank to suck up any water in there. May have to change the fuel filter again afterwards as well.

Try to buy your fuel at busy stations where big rigs go. Small convenience store stations can cause you trouble because they don't turn their fuel over fast enough.

turn2left · February 2005

Pilot3 Thanks for the advice!

hennigan · February 2005

Turned out to be the CPS. But thanks for the advice!

bigbuck · February 2005

I am currently coming to the end of my lease of a ford f-250 diesel. I was wondering who might have some sound advice or direction?

tloope · February 2005

Synthetic oil for my F250 6.0 vs regular?, Is it worth putting a K&N or some higher tech type air filter on?. First Diesel looking for additional tips. Will put 30 to 40K per year on.

tloope · February 2005

Homebrew, I have 27K on now. I also use synthetic in my Harley and other gas cars. Thanks. TL

donl · March 2005

2002 Ford F250 7.3 liter diesel engine, 27,000 miles. Starts and runs fine when cold, stalls when reaches opperating temperature, anywhere from 3 to 20 miles. Will not start again until completely cool. I drain the off the fuel water separater every 1000 since 15000 as a precautionary measure. The fuel filter/water separater has been replaced at 17,000 miles and again at 25,000 miles.Have replaced cam sensor and powertrain control module. Any ideas where I should try next?

Ford F-250 Owners

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