Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
By "it won't turn over." Do you mean that the engine doesn't want to crank when you turn the key? Or does the engine crank but it just won't catch and start?
If it's the former and the engine won't crank: Do you have or could you borrow a battery charger from someone? Driving the truck once a month isn't enough to keep the batteries charged. In winter time batteries have less power because of the cold. The coil light is for the glow plugs in the cylinders that warm things up so the diesel fuel can ignite when compressed. The glow plugs draw a lot of current and can drain the batteries to the point where the truck won't turn over.
If it's that the truck just won't start - it could be that the diesel fuel has gotten "old" from sitting, and most likely you may have water condensation in the diesel fuel. Is truck outside? If it's cold, the diesel fuel could've jelled. There's additives you buy to add to the fuel to get rid of the water. There's also ways to drain water out of the fuel lines - but you sound like you'd need professional help to drain the water separator and to change the fuel filter.
Unfortunately, that kind of thing is more of maintenance issue, and wouldn't be coverd by warranty.
Whatever, final outcome, I'd try to drive it once a week or more, and put fresh fuel and additives in it, so you don't have repeat problems before July.
The truck is outside and it has been abnormally wet (11 inches of rain in 2 months). What are the names of additives that I can buy to try and get the condensation out of the fuel? If I cannot get it to start, do I call someone to come out and drain the fuel lines?
I really appreciate your time and advice. I have never dealt with a diesel. It is a WONDERFUL truck. Wish I could afford to get one like it. But instead I will just enjoy this one until July.
At some "magic" model year some states require the smog equipment to match the later of either the vehicle or the engine. i.e. A 2004 engine in a 1993 means 2004 smog equipment.
You just need to plan for transplanting the WHOLE deal, not just the engine.
If you are going to drive on the street, do yourself a favor and do it right... Whatever that is. ;-)
Is the 5.4L engine enough power? Will the gas mileage suffer more for the 5.4L than the 6.0 PSD because of the weight and drag of the camper?
The camper dealer said I should shy away from 2WD because 4WD had an extra spring and would offer a better ride. Is this true? If a 2WD can handle the load and gives a comfortable ride I'd like to buy 2WD.
Thanks
Sorry for delay in reply - had a Wisdom tooth pulled, so I've haven't been on computer for several days. Do you ever see a "Water in Fuel" indicator come on when you try to start the truck? May not come on until there's a lot of water..... and just because it doesn't come on doesn't mean there isn't any water.
Diesel Fuel Additives go by names of Power Service, Stanadyne and several others. You can find them at big-truck stops, and even Autozone, PepBoys & Walmart sell their own brands of diesel fuel treatment that get rid of water. (Read the label of the store brands, avoid them if they contain alchohol. Alchohol can cause other problems with diesels.) Fuel Additives may not be enough - may still have change fuel filter and drain the separator.
Don't buy your diesel at you Mom & Pop, Quickie Mart - they usually don't turn their fuel over very quickly and you can get in trouble with water. Buy your fuel where the big rigs go, at least you know that they have a high turn over of their product
A 1/2 a bottle of regular "Power Serve" at every fill-up helps. If you're using good quality blended fuel, conditioner, and filling up at about 3/8 of a tank, your doing all you can to prevent getting water.
I bought a 2005 F250 with the diesel in Nov and love it. No problems to date and I use it about the same as your description. They have also made it much quieter which is great.
Good luck and go for the PSD!
I have a 1999 250SD with the V-10 gas / auto OD transmission. I have a really hard shift between 1st and 2nd gear if under any kind of load. If I get off the gas JUST when the shift is occurring, the transmission will ease in very well. The same problem happens between 2nd and 3rd gear, to a lesser extent. I took the truck to a local trans shop, and nothing (physical at least) seemed to be wrong with the transmission. It was removed and examined by the mechanics. I was there so I know it's true.
There is no discoloration / or evidence apparent with the fluid. Levels are correct and stable.
Any thoughts or advice regarding this problem would be greatly appreciated.
Roger
I have been searching the web and doing research to decide which engine to buy, based on various costs. I will be building my own house shortly, have property that I would like to develope in 3-5 yrs, live at high altitude, will occasionally be towing ~5K, and I like to have some power on hand.
From a fuel mileage perspective, I figure that the PSD will save me about $550 / yr (assuming 12K yr, UNL 2.09, DSL 2.29; 12mpg and 18mpg respectively). That alone will take 8-9yrs to recoup.
From a residual, I looked at trade in value for a 5yr old truck - with all options the same, there was a $3300 prem between PSD and V10. A 3yr old was $5K diff - so it seems that the PSD holds it value.
My questions are as follows:
1) How intensive and more is the maintance on the PSD (extra cost / yr)?
2) Does anyone have actual mileage for a (05)4x4 V10, SC?
3) Genreal drivalbity with the PSD. I read through this forum and see prblms mostly with the 7.3L and early 6L. Any issues with 05 6L?
4) Does anyone know of other forums, i have done a few searches and cant seem to find many active forums?
thanks and happy trucking.
Once I start to slow down it bumps hard with no load. Is it confused? Are the mechanics confused too?
Driveability is great, just start in any weather and it goes. Plenty of power. Get 12 mpg on average for highway, ~10 mpg city. 7-8 mpg towing ~9k lbs. Towing 5000 pounds, the V10 won't even know it's back there. Can't say much about '05 except for the 3-valve head has improved torque and hp over my motor. Gas engine will lose 2-3% of available power for each 1000 feet above sea level you go - turbo charger in diesel makes up for that problem, so PSD won't get weaker a higher elevations.
PSD, whether 7.3 or 6.0 takes a bit more nurturing. In winter you need to (or probably should) wait for glow plugs to cycle before trying to start it. If temperatures go below 20F, then you should also probably plug in engine block heater to ensure quicker starts. Diesel fuel needs to be blended for winter - if there's water in fuel it can gel in your fuel lines and leave you totally stranded, until you warmup the whole truck. Need to add fuel anti-gel additive "Power Test" or others to be safe.
PSD maintenance is more costly - need to use Diesel Grade motor oil - oil filters are more expensive too. Oil change is somewhere between 18 and 20 quarts (although I may be off by a couple quarts). Need to carry an extra fuel filter just in case you accidently pick up a load of fuel with water in it. Also need to learn how to purge the water separator from your fuel lines. PSD also has two batteries to be able to support the glow plugs and other accessories - usually when one battery goes the other isn't too far behind. 7.8L motor also needs anti-cavitation additive for the coolant to prevent pitting problems on the cylinder walls caused by air bubbles in the coolant. Problem has been addressed in 6.0L.
PSD is a great engine either 7.3 or 6.0. '99, & '00 7.8 engines had some issues with injectors and a problem called the cackle where engine sounded funny, had less power and drank fuel. Avoid '03 6.0L engines too - they had some birthing pains with the first version of the new Powerstroke. Ford ended up buying a bunch of them back because they couldn't fix driveablility issues in a timely manner - not sure if they ever did fix them all. A lot of these early production run motors were re-sold later on.
I don't tow that heavy, and I only tow a couple times a month, so V10 is great for me. Right now regular unleaded is $2.04/gallon for me - 39 gallon fill up is painful - but this truck isn't my daily driver. I saw Diesel this morning for $2.49 at Pilot truck center - gonna take a long time to make up the cost of the diesel motor based on better mileage. A V10 would work fine for you, the only issue I could see is high altitude robbing V10 of some power.
Can't tell you about other PSD forums, because it's against the Edmunds rules.
i have been shopping around diff dealers and it seems they are willing to deal out here. i get x-plan and the dealers keep calling me and are offering to take an additional $1K off plus the other rebates, i am not sure how they can do this - they tell me there is some special coupon they can use. the truck are going for about 42K, but it seems they are willing to let them go for ~34-35K; XLT, SC, 4x4, with nice tow package and dual alternators. of course the price is not final until the paperwork is signed and i have had dlrs in the past try to change it on me.
any advice on how to keep getting the price lower? are there special rebates for folks who prev owned ford trucks?
the dlr told me that the PSD needs to have oil changes at a min of 8K miles. not sure if this is bs or not.
the info on the water was very helpful, i have heard of issues but was not sure what/how to deal with them. i would not want to get stranded out in a mesa in southern colorado or northern nm.
These trucks use a hydraulic system to actuate the fuel injectors. The high pressure oil pump has to "build oil pressure" before the injectors will inject any fuel into the cylinder. It is possible that any pressure in this system has bled off due to it sitting for such a long period of time. Therefore it may take several seconds of cranking to build up enough oil pressure.
I don't know what type of area you live in, but first go out and check the oil to make sure the level is ok. These trucks will not start if someone has drained the oil. You will also need very good batteries. If the oil level and batteries are good, then cycle the key on and let it sit until the "Wait to Start" light has gone off. Then crank on it for at least 10 seconds continuously. Watch your oil pressure gauge. Approximately 5 seconds into the cranking the gauge should begin to register some pressure. Do not crank for more than 10-12 seconds as you could overheat the starter motor.
Let me know if that works.
SOMETIMES I GET AN AGRIVATING SQUEEK IN THE FRONT END AS I TURN THE WHEEL THAT COMES AND GOES. HAVEN'T BEEN ABLE TO GET ANY ANSWERS AS TO WHAT IT IS. ANY SUGGESTIONS. 55K MILES
Just a helpful reminder that typing all capital letters on the internet is considered yelling and is difficult to read. When posting, can you please turn your CapsLock off? Thanks!
I wouldn't think the '05 order book is closed yet, unless it's for some limited availabilty options like the King Ranch or Harley Davidson editions or something like that. May be that the dealers you've spoken to have used up their Superduty allotments and can't order any more '05s. Try a different dealer(?)
I also have a bumping in the steering like when the 4x is off it didn't completely get out of the four wheel drive. I took it to the dealer and he said I was imagining things but my imagination is getting worse. I have 53k.
Is anyone else having this trouble or had it fixed. I am thinking the lock out hubs may not be releasing but I don know.
kcram - Pickups Host
If you're just wanting to drop in a K&N filter, then find someone with a post-12/98 truck that has replaced their system and buy it. You can get one at the stealership, but you don't want to do that. If you're wanting to put in a complete intake kit, I don't think there would be any real problem. The post-12/98 cleaner box will literally just bolt into your pre-12/98 truck with no mods at all. You might have to tweak the intake tubing a little, but not much.
Do you know of anyone that has the product you're interested in installed in their truck? If so, look at theirs. That should give you an idea of any problems that might come up.
What do I need to know about diesels? Are there any resources that you folks can recommend? Books? Web sites? Also looking for an Owner's Manual, the truck I'm buying doesn't have one. Thanks for your help!
BlueJJeeper
Here's a link to Helms. They are source for both owners manuals and factory shop manual:
http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Style=&Mfg=FMC&Make=FCT&Model=F250&Year=2001&Catego- ry=2&Keyword=&Module=&mscsid=KHTMHL5NCTSE8JNREAV6WN90GAUHEPA1
You can E-mail at wpalkowski@yahoo.com for additional info.
Walt
Thanks!
kcram - Pickups Host
Thanks
Can't remember the site - do a Google on diesel cavitation and you should find something.
I've been told, that time between oil changes may actually be longer than gas engines because diesel generally run at lower RPMs. But I think this would be influenced by other factors - re: how hard you drive, towing, etc.
kcram - Pickups Host
Can anyone tell me what this item is on ebay or how to build it for my turbo? I would like a little more out of my turbo without buying a chip. Item number 7965447191. My 2000 has 243000+ with very little problems.
Also has anyone got an idea on how to bypass the egr on the 2004 6.0? My fathers truck has been in the shop every 7500 miles and all they do is fix the result of the problem not the cause. thanks :mad: :sick:
Would appreciate any input.
Thanks
Thanks
So, now that you've had the truck a few days how does it look? Do you like it & what color did you determine it is?
Semper Fi