Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford F-250 Owners

1…457910…25

Comments

  • rscott6rscott6 Member Posts: 20
    Has anyone out there experianced better mileage by opening up the thin wall in
    front of the air intake for the air filter & installing a flow through muffler and 4"
    exhaust from the cat. back?
  • popecgpopecg Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Ford F250 Diesel and it also surges ... I am thinking it may be a secondary fuel filter on the fuel line, but no one has been able to tell me is there is one or not. Did you ever get a response on this?

    Thanks
  • nof250nof250 Member Posts: 1
    DON'T BUY IT,I just sold my 99 f250 superduty with70 k on it,changed all 4 rotors twice ,ball joints at 40 k,the motor started burning 1.5 liters of oil every 5000 k at 70 k had a vibration since at 2500 since new,I was told it was normal, drivers side door started to rust and paints fell off they refused to fix it.SAVE YOUR CASH AND BUY A DODGE!!!!
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Maybe Walt will chime in, he has one. I think he says 11-13 or 14 mpg. All of those gassers will get roughly the same mileage.
  • fordysomthgfordysomthg Member Posts: 10
    Seems like you've had some bad luck with that one. Well, believe me. Dodge aint the answer! Do you know your service writer?Most of them will help if you're respectful. Ball joints at 40k is not normal & neither is rust on the door....under normal circumstances & rotors depend on the brake pads you buy. I back my boat in at the Gulf of Mexico. My vehicle is a '96 Bronco.No rust. Last month the ball joints on the left front wheel were changed for the first time.There is 178,000 miles on this truck & it's still as strong as new.I sold my '81 Bronco 7 years ago with 265k miles& the guy still drives it today.I could tell you about my older brothers '73 F-250 Ford Ranger that he bought new while in High school that has over 1 million miles on it (he's rebuilt the motor twice) but you probably aren't interested. It appears you are angry with Ford. Please, make yourself happy & go buy a Dodge or Chevy & in six years come back & tell us about the problems you have with either one of them.You won't be saving any cash!
    I know. A Bronco is not an F-250. I did have an '84 F-250 with a 300 c.i. straight 6. Great truck.Would still have it if someone had been paying attention & not come head on in my lane.Totaled both vehicles. Thank God that Ford knows how to make seat belts that work...and a tough truck.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    V10 - Crew Cab, long bed, 4x4, automatic . It gets 10-11 in the city. Highway averages around 12. If you keep it around 55-60 and drive real conservatively, you can get 14. That's with summer-blend gas - winter blend is always worse. Problem is, the engine is a lot of fun to drive.......still fun to surprise a Hyundai at a traffic light. :P

    Folks with manual tranny, smaller/lighter versions of Superduty and/or 2WD get 1 or 2 mpg more. 6.8L V10 has an easier time moving all that mass around than 5.4L V8 - so even though you're feeding two more cylinders, there isn't all that much difference in the mileage.

    Unfortunately, I ran my tank down and had to do a major fillup the other day - $83! Ouch!! :cry:
    Luckily, this truck is not my daily driver......
  • yrbenderyrbender Member Posts: 25
    Had the same problem with an excursion I ordered for my wife. She was really upset at delivery I grew to like the color (she didnt) not really a woman color. I asked most of my good friends and they all liked the color. My wife however thought it was to masculine for her taste.
  • usmc03usmc03 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks fordysomthg and yrbender for your responses. I tell ya fordy, I just can't figure it out. It's like a murky gray which I think looks great. But, it turns more brownish in bright sunlight. Weird. yrbender--that excursion you got..it's dark stone? If so, what color does it look like to you. I think I'm either color blind or obsessive compulsive here..hehe. By the way, fuel is a killer here in southern california where I'm stationed. Can't wait to move back home. Isn't diesel supposed to cost less than 87 octane? Here it mostly costs more than premium gas. Crazy!
  • rscott6rscott6 Member Posts: 20
    Fuel is suppose to be way lower than 87...it's the after birth of gas period...Here
    at Barranca and the 10 Fwy in Covina there is a Chevron about 1/2 mile north of the fwy and it's $2.55..cheapest I've seen.
  • usmc03usmc03 Member Posts: 8
    Just put $55 in today. $2.61 is the cheapest around here and that's on a military base which is always cheaper than anywhere else.
  • wildcatswildcats Member Posts: 3
    I purchased the Diesel 6.0 F250 in December ( a 2005 model ). After reading some of the complaints, I wanted to express my satisfaction with the truck. I haven't experienced any problems other than it arrived with a stain on the passenger side seat, which I was able to get out with some Cheer and a scrub brush. The ride is greatly improved over the 2004 model. Ford switched to a coil spring suspension in the front which improved the ride greatly, and also shortened the turning radius. The diesel is noisy on first start but quiets down rapidly as it warms up. In fact, after riding in a friends' Honda Pilot to San Francisco the other day, I think the F250 has a better ride and interestingly much less road noise. I wouldn't trade him that is for sure.

    I used to own an Expedition with the 5.4 liter engine to tow my boat. The F250 is a far better tow vehicle for the combined "wet" weight of 9000 pounds of boat, trailer and fuel. Ford did a nice job on this redesign. I think the only improvements I would suggest would be to dress up the interior somewhat and add some amenities like they have done on the F150.

    I also drove the Dodge Cummins 2500. It is an impressive diesel but I picked the Ford for its better transmission, and the better back seat leg room in the crew cab. Just one person's opinion, but I really am enjoying my F250.

    Tom
  • lwheelonlwheelon Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 F-250 Super Duty 7.3L with a 6spd manual transmission. I have owned it for about 6 weeks and have had no problems to speak of. Just the other day I noticed a large spot of oil on the driveway. It is coming from the passenger side of the transmission towards the rear. I'm no mechanic but it looks like a set screw of some type. It's not a large one either maybe 1/4" across. Is this a fill/check for the gear oil? Any ideas would be helpful.
  • fordysomthgfordysomthg Member Posts: 10
    rscott6 & usmc03 ,the price of diesel in the Houston & surrounding areas is about 5 cents higher than super unleaded, which is from about a low of 2.20 to 2.35. You must remember that George Bush & family had an oil co. here for many years...too many years. The Vice President was C.E.O. of Halliburton. Some of us warned our friends seven years ago that George Jr. would run for pres. & ..........well you know the rest... or ... we're living it. Today I saw unleaded gas for 2.01. I drive a Bronco with the 5.8. I had filled up earlier for 2.09. Thats the way it goes isn't it.
    Will gas get to 3.00 this summer? I sure hope not,but I'm betting it does.
    Hey, usmc03, California was a great place to go 'off-roadin' many years ago.There were plenty of undeveloped areas in the mountains around Orange County & deserts East of there. Enjoy it while your there if you get the chance. Just don't go draggin' the bottom of that new super duty on the the rocks.
  • lwheelonlwheelon Member Posts: 2
    Count yourselves lucky...fuel here in Portland, Or is about 2.61 for diesel and 2.53 for regular unleaded. I think we will hit 3.00 and over here.

    Later~
  • dieseldandieseldan Member Posts: 2
    Read your reply about the Western Diesel 4 bank chip. I pull a 7200lb dry weight 5 wheel with my 7.3 03 f250 superduty. Wil that chip reduce the longevity of my truck. What about warranty and where can I get one. New to diesel and this forum and I have really learned a lot from You. Thank You.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Well, first the bad news: You can't get a Western Diesel chip anymore as they were bought out by another company, can't remember who at the moment. But the good news is that there are several companies offering chips/tuners for your Powerstroke.

    I would suggest researching them and stick with those companies that specialize in diesel applications. Another website, that I can't mention due to site rules, did a test on a Powerstroke using a chassis dyno. While that one test was inconclusive as to which chip/tuner was best, one thing seemed to stand out. The chips/tuners made by companies that started out offering tuners for gassers seemed to have higher Exhaust Gas Temperatures. Those companies that offer only diesel engine chips/tuners seemed to run lower EGT's.

    With that said, I recommend getting one of the lower HP chips/tuners that is programmed for towing. A lower HP chip, say around 75hp, won't raise your EGT's too much. A higher HP chip/tuner will run higher EGT's and a pyrometer(gauge that measures EGT's) is a neccessity. That way you'll know it if you start to cook your turbo. Also, with a higher HP chip/tuner, install a tranny temp gauge if you have an auto. I recently sold my truck :cry: because I didn't need it anymore. It had over 165k miles on it running a 75hp/150ftlbs chip with no problems whatsoever. So running a mild chip/tuner, IMO, shouldn't affect the longevity of your engine.

    Any chip/tuner should be covered under the Magnusson-Moss Act. However, I've heard stories of dealers not honoring a waranty simply because the truck was chipped. I've also heard stories of dealers that support the use of chips/tuners. My local dealership happens to be one of those. Infact, the diesel guru at this dealership told me I should chip it, along with some other mods, when I first got it. What a guy!!!

    Just go to one of the search engines on the internet and do a search on something like "Powerstroke tuner" and look at what comes up. Also, try that large online auction site.
  • lepeterlepeter Member Posts: 3
    Our truck did a similar thing but then quit running. I noticed that the oil low pressure light came on, although briefly. I would watch for this. The dealership finally found that the oil pump gears had been damaged by foreign material and had to be replaced. The sensor automatically shuts down the engine. It’s something to watch.
  • lepeterlepeter Member Posts: 3
    If under warranty I would check your state's Lemon law. In Iowa I read that it requires 20 days of down time.
  • lepeterlepeter Member Posts: 3
    We have experienced the same problem with Ford in the past. It appears that we are having the same problem again. We have proof that Ford tries to blame everyone but their own design faults. We have documented evidence and a service manager that later acknowledged secret behind-the scenes games. Their favorite statement is that the truck is running as designed.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Ford also says that about their gas engines. My wife has a Windstar with a terrible knock in the motor. Terrible to me is loud enough to hear it going down the road. They tell me "they all do that." I think they're full of crap and just don't want to fix it. It's out of factory warranty now, but I've had it in the shop several times before it ran out to start a paper trail showing proof of the problem early on. That way, if it blows up next week, I'll have a decent case.

    My wife use to have a '95 Cougar with the 4.6L. It didn't even have 5k miles on it when it developed a small oil leak around the timing belt cover. When I took it in, they told me that I must be spilling oil everywhere when I change the oil. I KNOW BETTER THAN THAT. I asked them to look at it and the service tech flat out told me that he wasn't going to spend all day looking for a non-existant leak. I went and got the head salesman, who sold us the car, and he told them that they WERE going to find and fix the leak. I told them all they had to do was put some UV dye in the oil, let me drive it for a day or two, and I'd bring it back in. Pretty simple I thought. Well, they finally did just that, and two days later showed up with an engine covered in UV dye!! Don't ya just love it when things work out like that. BTW: They fixed it and that motor never did leak any more oil in 8 years that we owned it.
  • rscott6rscott6 Member Posts: 20
    Looks like Houston is the place to be for those Low prices....we dropped to $2.53
    over the weekend east of L.A., the best price in this town..
  • toweringittoweringit Member Posts: 1
    I am new to this so hello to all. I drive a 2004 F250 Power Stroke. I was wondering if anyone had any idea of a programmer/chip that would boost my fuel mileage. I have looked into a few of these items and all boast of hp and flbs but none seem to speak of mileage gains. Any suggestions? Keep in mind I am happy with the power of the truck it is the mileage I wish to improve.
  • rscott6rscott6 Member Posts: 20
    I also drive a 2004 F250 PS..the whole thing revolves around Air....the Diesel likes
    to breathe..you don't need any chips, the thing has too much power in my opinion.
    They should de-tune them, that would help on the fuel mileage...when you are on
    a trip find your power band, mine is at 71 mph. This will let the engine run easy and
    use less fuel..I get 19 mpg on a trip once it made it to 20 mpg. Putting a 4"
    exhaust from the turbo back will also help it breathe. Besure they attach the cat.
    when this is done...one last thing I did is open up the wall in front of the air intake
    alittle a 3" square hole to let more air in....the wall is there to keep the noise down,
    it isn't that much louder..around town is 17 mpg. Use your CC on the long runs.
  • dcrowndcrown Member Posts: 1
    RE: F-250 7.3L early ’99
    PROBLEM: On cold mornings an intermittent electrical problem occurs in which none of the gauges function and the throttle response is absent for the first few minutes, then first the throttle responds, then the gauges come in. What’s up?????????????
  • earthworkmanearthworkman Member Posts: 1
    1. I have problems with my F-350 radio speakers. The right side, front and back don't work. The left side works fine. Any input on this will be appreciated.

    2. The automatic door locks on my truck have quit working, you hear a "thud" sound whenever you try to lock or unlock the doors, but no action. Does anyone know about a similar problem? Is this a actuator problem? (sp)

    Appreciate any replies.
  • usmc03usmc03 Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone know if there is any difference in regard to emissions with the PSD when it is sold in California? I ordered my '05 from home state (registered there also) but had the dealer drop it from the factory to a dealership out here in Cali where I'm stationed. Is my engine restricted because of emissions laws? It's got about 2600 miles on it and is only averaging 14mpg. Is this because it needs more time to break in or can it possibly have something to do with cali emissions? Thanks.
  • rscott6rscott6 Member Posts: 20
    You might check to see if it has a Cat. Converter..I don't know if it's just in Cal. or
    not...Ford started do this on the 6.0 engines. If you have a 4X4 that's about what
    you will be getting. A friend of mine has a'03 and that's what he still gets.
  • rscott6rscott6 Member Posts: 20
    I forgot to mention with the 4X4, if that's what you have 14 mpg will probably be
    what you get.
  • paintmanpaintman Member Posts: 23
    my 2000 f250 diesel , when driving occasionally the steering wheel jerks hard to the right or when after i turn i fight the wheel to go straight again then sometimes all is fine, is this an indication of the power steering going bad?
  • thmessthmess Member Posts: 1
    Walt, I recently purchased my first ever diesel p/u - a Ford F-250 1999 Turbo
    4X4. It had 77K miles at purchase and the automatic mpg guage consistently says it's getting 14.3 mpg. Even when towing our 9000 lb horse trailer, the mpg doesn't change on the guage. Sounds like this engine is not getting the best mileage, according to other posts I've read today. No owner's manual included with truck. Your post #25 mentions an on-line place which may offer oil, filters, etc. for much less than could be purchased off the shelf. Could you e-mail me that address? Also, any tips on increasing mileage would be appreciated. I've read thru all postings regarding starting, stopping, no water in tank, buying at reputed truck stops, etc and appreciate all the good advice.
  • paintmanpaintman Member Posts: 23
    i get 19/20 mpg with my 2000 f250 diesel (manual) i have k&n filter i carry 600-2000lb payloads alot in the bed ,but have never towed
  • bonfigbonfig Member Posts: 14
    is there any difference in the 2 years? the jd power rating on the 01 was 7.7 on the 02 it was 9.0. whats up?
  • usmc03usmc03 Member Posts: 8
    Hey, thanks rscott6. I went and checked my paperwork. My truck (it is a 4x4 by the way) has california emissions even though it is registered in Delaware. Do you or anyone know if that's all california emissions is? A cat. converter? If so, what is the effect of a cat. converter on actual power, mpg, etc? Just curious to see if it would be worth taking off. Thanks.
  • paintmanpaintman Member Posts: 23
    my 2000 f250 diesel , when driving occasionally the steering wheel jerks hard to the right or when after i turn i fight the wheel to go straight again then sometimes all is fine, is this an indication of the power steering going bad?
  • rscott6rscott6 Member Posts: 20
    I think the Cat Converter is it...but you never now..it's a sut collector. Bush wants
    to add the "Clean Diesel" to the catagory of those electric cars which could be a
    good thing if we get a tax break of some kind..if that's the case they will be looking
    at those trucks and checking for the cat. converter....I'm going to add a 4" exhaust
    and flow through muffler to help it breathe better..the cat will be left on and I know
    that doesn't help matters.
  • markr1markr1 Member Posts: 1
    please help recently my 7.3 has been maybe a backfire or a miss at different times once just cruising @65 once acclerating up a hill at 55 and once accelerating flat interstate at 65-70 this is my first diesel just had it dealer serviced at 60,000 now i'm at 67,000 also last long road trip the engine stalled slowing down going into a toll booth but it started right back up no problem since.. thanks for the help
  • fredmaticfredmatic Member Posts: 1
    I was living in Vermont and had this problem for a while....It turned out to be a bad glowplug solenoid. This is a $90 part from Ford. It sits on the top of the 7.3L engine right behind the alternator. Since I changed this mine starts pretty easily even to below zero..... (and no block heater).

    If you can use a wrench, change it yourself.... Ford ripped me off for $125 in labor charges for less than 20 minutes of work. I didn't know where the solenoid was located......
  • soogiewoogiesoogiewoogie Member Posts: 1
    We bought our '99 F-250 SuperDuty, diesel (I'm pretty sure it's 7.3), Crewcab, Auto trans, anti-lock brakes, Lariat Edition (all the bells and whistles) when it
    was 2 yrs old...2001. It had 40K on it, but was in excellent shape. We added
    lighted stepsides to it so I could get my short, fat fanny up INTO it. Got ripped
    off by the dealer, whose salesman had assured us it was ready to tow the
    5th wheel we were also preparing to buy. Turns out, the towing pkg on it was
    for the purpose of hauling FARM EQUIPMENT.... and of course, the salesman
    denied having told us it was ready to pull a 5th wheel, so we ended up spending
    another $1300 for a towing package. aaarrrggghhh....

    Which leads me to the current problem..... finding an HONEST, ETHICAL
    repair shop in order to have the truck inspected and diagnosed. Last week,
    hubby was driving it when he smelled a strong odor of burnt diesel inside the
    cab... popped the hood, and found diesel fuel all over the engine. He took it
    to the NEAREST Ford dealership (not knowing what I know, having lived here
    forever.... that this dealership & its service dept have about the WORST rep
    in Western WA!).... where he asked them to inspect THAT problem, diagnose,
    and get back to him. Monday, they presented us with a ''diagnosis'' and an
    ''estimate'' of nearly $3000.... a little more than 1/10 of it related to the problem
    for which hubby TOOK it to them.

    The problem with the diesel spill was due to Jiffy Lube having either put the
    wrong cap back in OR having put NO cap in when they did a lube job 2 weeks
    prior. (They DID ultimately put that in writing, so we have some recourse
    against JL) Diagnosing this, steam-cleaning the engine, and replacing the
    cap cost us $336., which we paid.

    But we told them we'd have to ''think'' about the rest of it, since NONE of it
    had to do with the problem for which we TOOK the truck to them in the first
    place: Labor
    @$101

    Diagnose Fuel Leak and Repair, Steam-clean engine**................. $274.13 2.0
    Front Brake Reline.................................................................... $299.98 2.5
    Rear Brake Reline..................................................................... $305.66 2.5
    Replace Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor and Replace tube.......... $395.49 1.5
    Replace Torque Converter (''T/C iss rattling and will come
    apart causing transmission failure'')......................................$1023.77 5.5
    Reseal Intake System and clean out Air Intake System............... #368.57 3.5

    Disposal of fuel..................................................................... $ 64.00
    Tax...................................................................................... $240.36
    _________

    TOTAL.................................................................................... $2971.70

    MINUS 1st on list (what we had done).................................... $335.62
    __________
    BALANCE if we GO for this line of padooky............................ $2636.08

    This vehicle NOW has nearly 100,000 miles on it, so I know it is probably
    due for some brake work, though I can't see it taking 5 hours to replace
    FOUR brake pads.... but prior to this ''diagnosis'', the worst problem I
    thought we had was a broken cup holder. NOW I don't know WHAT to
    think, nor who to go to for an HONEST assessment of the problems, if
    any. What do you suggest? Anyone live in the Seattle area, and know
    a good mech?

    soogie
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Sorry I took so long to get back to you on this, busy work schedule and too many other activities you know. Your email is listed as private.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Sorry about all your headaches. You just have to view salesmen as a necessary evil in car buying. Just exactly what is a Farm Equipment towing package? And why did a Fifth wheel towing package cost $1,300? A complete fifth wheel hitch can be bought at an RV dealership for around $600, $750 including installation.

    The spilled diesel fuel problem: Did JL replace the fuel filter? Did they not put the fuel filter cap back on properly? They had to have put in on, otherwise the fuel system would never pressurize and gallons of diesel fuel would begin pouring onto the ground almost immediately. They wouldn't have been able to pull it out of their shop with no cap on.

    The brakes: Those can be done by any reputable brake shop. There's no difference in your's and 1/2 ton trucks, just size and weight. I'd check around.

    I don't know about the exhaust back pressure sensor. I've never heard of that one.

    The faulty torque convertors on '99 models are a known problem. I'm kinda surprised that your's has made it to 100k if it has been rattling all this time. Since it's out of warranty and it's made it this far, I'd be tempted to keep driving it until it craps out. Of course it could take your tranny out as well if it dumps a lot of debris into the fluid. There is a transmission rebuilder somewhere in Arkansas by the name of Brian's Truck Shop. He has a reputation as building an absolutely bullet proof torque convertor. In fact, he's so confident in his work, he offers a two year unlimited, unconditional, unlimited mileage, "he doesn't care what you do to it" warranty. If it breaks for any reason, he'll replace it. To find his site, go to a search engine and type in the name just like I typed it above. You should find it no problem.

    Resealing the intake system: Interesting. These Powerstrokes use a crankcase ventilation system similar to what's used on gassers. What that means is that all oil vapors created in the engine are sucked into the intake to be burned, rather than released into the atmosphere. This oil vapor will coat the interior of your intake tract with a thin film of engine oil. The major problem with this setup is that the oil film will cause your intercooler tubes to blow apart from their rubber connectors under high boost conditions. You'll know it when it happens as there is a sound similar to a distance explosion under your hood and the truck will fall flat on its face. You'll think you just blew the motor. If that happens, all you have to do is clean the rubber boots really well and reattch them to the cooler tubes. No big deal really. Unless you have this problem, I wouldn't touch it!!!

    I would forgo this dealer and find someone else. Of course, that was the point of your post in the first place. I wish I could help you on that. But maybe I gave you a little info and insight to help you make a decision. Good luck.
  • bamafever41bamafever41 Member Posts: 2
    I'm buying my new truck tomorrow and a friend of mine said that the first thing I should do to really improve fuel economy and power was to have a Banks 6 Gun Power Pack installed. Will this void my factory warranty?
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Won't say it will void your warranty... rather, it can void your warranty if the Banks damages a part that would have otherwise been covered. Also keep in mind that if the Banks equipment needs to be moved to accomodate a warranty repair, you are responsible for the labor involved to do that - the warranty only covers labor involved on a factory-stock truck.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • ooweaver68ooweaver68 Member Posts: 6
    hey everybody this forum is pretty cool been reading a little bit of it. I was hoping that yall might be able to help me. I got a 2001 F-250 Diesel 4x4 in feb. and I am the 3rd owner of it. it has been a great truck till this morning, it didnt want to start for me. i waited for the "wait to start" light to go off then i tried to start it and it didnt do anything. I didnt have time to mess with it so i got into my other truck and left. Tried to start it again after school and it was the same thing. I think it is the batteries but not sure. if yall got any ideas please tell me thanks OOWeaver68
  • ooweaver68ooweaver68 Member Posts: 6
    Got new batteries didnt fix the problem and then me and my dad swapped parts with his 2000 F-350 Diesel that didnt work but we tapped on he starter a little bit adn then it started right up any ideas on where i can et a new starter for a good price. OOWeaver68
  • redneck48redneck48 Member Posts: 2
  • redneck48redneck48 Member Posts: 2
    i have a new 05 f-250 super duty and have about 2,000 miles on it i am due for oil at 3,000 but i am wondering what ppl would suggest for type
  • mush25mush25 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 F-250 superduty with low miles and i have began to develop a rattle in the back of the dash board near the winshield. Does anyone have any suggestions on how i should go about fixing it? Or has anyone hd the problem in their truck? Thanks alot.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I wouldn't try to replace the starter. You mentioned driving another truck, so it's not absolutely necessary for you to drive this truck everyday? If you can do without it for a day or two, I'd suggest having the starter rebuilt. You won't find a good quality starter for one of these engines cheap. And, it could be all that is wrong with your starter is the solenoid.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Check the owners manual for the proper weight. More than likely it will suggest 15W-40 for most temp. ranges. I suggest Shell Rotella-T. It was used in mine the entire time, up untill I sold it. Mine had over 165k miles on it with zero problems. I used to work for a truck company. They sold me on Rotella-T. Their trucks would routinely over 1 million miles without a rebuild.
  • enduraleteenduralete Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a ford 2003 f-250 diesel 7.3 2 weekends ago. It is a 4x4 lariat fx4 w/ 37,000 miles on it clean and in very good shape. I drove it last night parked it in my driveway went out this morning and it would not even turn over. I do not know if the inside lights were left on or what>>I opened the hood and saw it had two batteries. I tried to jump it w/ my car but did not do a thing. When I try to start it the battery light comes on and the gage light. My neighbor has a 12 volt charger and I hooked it up and it is way low. Is it for sure the battery?? Do batteries go quick???Will it charge a battery enough to start it? Any suggestions on what to do?????
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles