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Sorry about your trouble with the air susp, but glad to hear you had it taken care of... This is a good reminder that everyone can go over their vehicle completely before the warantee expires and get anything fixed. Lexus replaced my tranny right before the odometer rolled over to 70,000.
Anyway, I'm interested in your thoughts about the handling on your model with the "sport" air suspension. Had you driven both before deciding on this one?
Are you in CA?
I finally took the car to the dealer, to find out the compressor is bad, no very clear explanation of what happened and my warranty expired in May of this year, repair estimate about 2K USD. I would like to know if others have had similar problems. My car has 28K miles on it and it has had a few other problems, including having to replace all tires with only 25k miles on them. Very dissapointed with the Lexus brand.
How did you manage to get Lexus to replace the RX tranny? Did they ask for service records? What is the name/ location of the dealer who took care of it? I know that it was still under drivetrain warranty but I've read that Lexus does everything they can to avoid replacing it and putting the blame on the customer. I too have an 04 RX330 with the whining noise around 75mph. I have 48500 miles. My problem is I bought it used (clean title) from a small non Lexus exclusive dealer and I don't have any service records. I do know based on carfax that it was previously a leased car from a Lexus dealer. If anybody have any suggestions pls reply. Thanks
The 1999-2001 models came with "under designed" transmissions (compared to the expectations of buying an expensive automobile with a rep for durability). Many but not all of those transmissions were replaced with more modern designed units, many times Lexus paid for it under warrantee. 1999-2000 also had some models show up with engine oil-gelling, although the problem did not seem to be prevelant in models that were well maintained, and perhaps city/low mileage/extended idling played a significant role. Those issues were not common in later models at all. 2004 had a completely modern drivetrain, but suffered from a few rattles and windshield issues during the first model run, from what I've understood on this forum.
Usually RX's with high highway mileage make the best used car buys for a couple reasons. I'd steer clear of models with low mileage because they tend to have more problems and the higher perceived resale value means you aren't really getting a great "deal" by looking for a low-mileage model. For some, extended idling and/or short trips seemed to leave a pattern of poor durability.
Make sure you have records of maintainence, there wasn't a lot of city "stop and go" (sounds like you already recognized that) and keep the engine oil and specifically transmission service more often than the manual recommends. And of course, bargain the price down because of the mileage. Eventually, you will need to repair something on a used car. Make sure you budget for it, then the likelihood of a satisfying experience will be on your side, and you have a good used car buy.
hesitation abolition delay
ALL Toyota FWD and F/AWD vehicles with E-throttles, DBW (Drive By Wire), will oftentimes exhibit a downshift delay of 1-2 seconds, sometimes in quite DIRE situations.
Lack of wear on the edges of the seats (where you slide in and out), door panels, brake pedal, "door dings", etc. The type of brake wear may also help verify a sellers claim.
These are just some indicators I know of... Does anyone have other ideas?
Any pointers any one can give me about what to watch for, and what goes wrong with 2004 RX330 will be appreciated. My wife did have a 2001 RX300 that we sold for a 2008 Accord EX, now we are back to Lexus again.
The RX300 oil filter was in a tough spot to get to, didn't Lexus/Toyota go to a vertical position for the oil filter with the 3.3L engine? Are there any issues with RX330 AWD system? Does it use 87 or 91 octane gas?
Thanks,
Joe
I have looked at used cars for years. I have pretty good idea what to stay away from and what is a good buy. I can tell a clean car from a car that scrubbed for sale. So far so good
My specific question was to RX330 owners, people that own these and know ins and outs. I was not looking for a check list.
Joe
fwiw, I haven't heard of any recurring issues with Toyota/Lexus since the gel days, and that didn't affect the V6 in the RX's. You may want to track down Kdhspyder too; he's at a dealership and keeps track of issues and talks straight. You can find him at the Toyota Prius discussions lately.
When the RX was in the design stages they had to find a way to "beef-up" the Camry transaxle so it could be used in a heavier vehicle AND have decent towing capacity. As you may have noted there is not a lot of spare space left over in the engine compartment for a sideways mounted engine and transaxle and now with the RX a center diff'l and PTO, Power Take Off.
So something HAD to go/give.
So the traditional ATF gear type pump with fixed spring pressure relief/regulator and pressure holding accumulator was abandoned in favor of real time pressure control used a PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) electric solenoid. Substantial space/weight saving plus significant improved FE.
But there proved to be a "hitch" in the "get-a-long".
If the engine happened to be at idle, no substantial ATF pump flow capacity, and the real time ATF pressure control suddenly called for high pressure it simply could NOT happen.
A few of the conditions under which that would soon prove to happen are spelled out quite clearly in a TSB issued for the '92 Camry in the spring of '93.
Toyota, CLEARLY, did not foresee those happenings.
So the '99 and '00 RX300's had horribly premature transaxle, 70-80,000 miles, failures as a result.
By the time the '01 RX300 rolled off the production line Toyota had recognized the problem and came up with a quick, and what proved to be a "dirty" fix. They reprogrammed the Real time pressure control solenoid to sustain the ATF pressure for longer durations. When I purchased my '01 AWD RX300 it came with the towing package which includes an external ATF oil cooler.
But even that, apparently, was not enough to provide the extra cooling my ATF required due to the extra ATF pumping capacity required under the new pressure control design.
At ~40,000 miles the ATF in my transaxle looked dirty and smelled burned so I did a drain and fill, twice.
It turned out that while the owners manual had no requirement of ATF scheduled maintenance for the life of the vehicle, Lexus (actually LEXUS, not just the dealer) was now recommending ATF FLUSH and refill every 15,000 miles.
So as of the RX330 DBW was used to allow the original ATF pressure control firmware to be used by still have a transaxle and ATF life within reason.
As a result the driver of RX330 and RX350 might encounter a downshift delay of 1-2 seconds in the conditions, sometime DIRE circumstances, defined in the Camry TSB.
And I would advise you to Google for..
wwest "two-layer" defrost/defog/demist
The entire Toyota/lexus product line is subject to instances of sudden windshield fogging, sometimes fogging so complete that all forward visibility is lost, as a result of thoughtless design on the part of NipponDenso, Denso US.
Not to mention the problems of "dirty gym socks" odor emanating from the HVAC system.
A bit of a strange BEAST, that one.
The RX3X0 series is, and will likely always be, primarily a FWD vehicle, best referred to as F/AWD. The earlier AWD RX300's has a VC, Viscous Clutch, mounted across the center differential that would provide some moderate level of "locking" of the center differential. By the time the '01 rolled off the produstion line Lexus had added VSC and TC, Traction Control.
The adoption of TC made the VC virtually useless so as of the '01 the VC fluid was reformulated to remain flaccid except for extreme (read "NEVER" happens..!!) cases. Instead TC is used to brake, moderately, any wheel that develops wheelspin/slip due to engine torque and thereby sustain and redistribute, hopefully, torque to wheels remaining with traction. Due to other considerations, the possibility of brake components, rotor and pads, overheating, not to mention the potential for loss of control being EXTREME otherwise, the engine is also instant dethrottled. For the RX300 series fuel starvation using EFI was adopted.
The RX330 series abandoned the use of the VC entirely.
So many customers voiced dissatisfaction with this "braking" technique to implement the RXes F/AWD system that newer models have the ability to disable TC...and subsequently...VSC, in order to "escape" from the many common instances wherein the TC F/AWD braking technique has proved to be inadequate.
There is word that the 2010 RX series will be getting an entirely new AWD design, hopefully we will be able to refer to the new one as R/AWD.
I know the AWD in a FWD lay out design is kind of useless. I much rather get a FWD RX330, but this one appears to be an excellen used RX so I will take the AWD part.
My biggest complaint with our RX300 was its lousy turning circle.
Do you know if the oil filter mount is changed to vertical position or is still horizontal like it was in the 3.0L engine?
Joe
Joe
1. The transaxle downshift delay can occur, unpredictably occur, in the worse of circumstances, potentially putting everyone's life at risk.
2. Same goes for the sudden windshield fogging.
3. The TC braking method is not adequate, CLEARLY not adequate, to provide truly functional F/AWD capability in many common wintertime circumstances.
4. Even the RX owners manual will advise you that a higher traction level at the front vs the rear can too quickly lead to an accident due to loss of directional control. Yet for the RX tire chains or cable chains are to be used ONLY at the front. Absent modification no traction devices can be used at the rear due to the low clearance between the rear tires and suspension components.
My '01 AWD RX300 has 1.5" wheel spacers all around so I can use rear chains FIRST, and then add the front chains only if required.
For my '01 there were two (maybe three for the newer RX330 series) c-best options that the dealer can set to help alleviate the problem of sudden windshield fogging.
When I took it to my local Lexus dealer, he said it costs $1488 to replace it. I never liked the HID just for their replacement bulb/headlight cost. I stayed away from these when I was looking for my 2001 E430. With RX330, there are a lot more out there with 18" wheels/HID headlight than with 17"/halogen headlights.
Has anyone had similar problem with 2004 HID headlight moisture? This one was built 6/2004.
Does Lexus have any kind of good will gesture on these expensive headlights after their warranty runs out.
Thanks,
Joe
The only thing I think they may say is that it is caused by someone backing into us and causing gasket to fail -- allow moisture in.
Best of luck with yours.
Tom
Take it to the dealer right way.........
On the other hand if your vehicle sat outside on a lot unused for a period of time the accumulated moisture may go away with a few weeks of regular use of the headlamps. The resulting heating/cooling cycles will tend to "pump" the moisture out of the assembly.
I have thought about taking the high beam and side marker and parking lights out and run a hairdryer through the high beam opening. For close to $1500, I will look at any option here.
Joe
I got rid of my rx because I got tired of the warranty work due to various problems: rattle on dash under speaker, plastic around the outside window flying off while I was driving, mulitiple computer chip malfunction, headlight stuff, and I read here about the rx300 transmission guck that Lexus put out a bulletin about it. I guess owners were beginning to replace their trannys about 60-80k at what the people here wrote, $ 6000-8000.
We have had five Toyota brand cars and about 4 hondas, and now 3 Acuras. Never until Lexus did we ever had a big repair, and indeed just tune ups and that was it.
Finally, the future cost of maintenance at where we live, currently $ 200 an hour, was not worth to keep.
Good luck to all and stay safe.
jensad
I don't understand how the dealer can say warranty does not cover it. The problem WILL go away with a new headlight assembly. How can they claim that this is not covered under warranty. Go around the dealer and write to Lexus with photos of your problem. I can send you photos of my headlight to show them how bad it will get when your warranty runs out.
Joe
Please park your photos on your CarSpace page in the Photo Album there. Then they'll be available for anyone to see in the coming months and years. Thanks Joe!
The only other time we had a problem with a dealer with warranty or the last time, not under warranty , was the overcharge of my wife when she took her Pilot in for service. I caught them inflating the bill and complaned. They sent us a check for the overbilling. We stopped servicing our Pilot there at the Honda dealer and found another less dishonest dealer.
Also. The right headlight on our RX 330 was also our problem and they fixed it without any b.s.
Good luck to all and stay safe.
jensad
I'll call my dealer this week and let you know what they say.
I removed the wheel, removed the fender liner, removed the bolt that holds the side of the headlight, removed two obvious bolts that holds the top portion, and removed the bolt that supports the bottom. In total I remove four bolts.
On the replacement headlight I see four mounting holes, The headlight is loose but I have heck of a time sliding it out, or pull up and slide, tilt to the side and out
I have removed several headlights before. None has been as puzzling as this one.
Joe
My 2006 RX330 battery with 35K miles on it is dead. Does anyone know if it's covered under the warranty? The electronics on the dash went crazy before it went dead, so I'm wondering if it's an electrical issue?
Thanks
Batteries are always covered under warranty.
Thanks.
A local dealer has a a super clean 2001 RX300 for sale at $9,995.00. It has been serviced by the local Lexus dealer and he indicated all records are available. I am a little hesitant after reading of all the problems shared in this forum from being an unafe 4WD vehicle from one person to misting problems.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Mike
Only one person I know of considers the RX to be unsafe like you said. Not to speak for him but as I understand it from his posts on this forum, he apparently prefers a car with more rear-wheel bias and he warns of misting "problems". The misting issue is easily avoided by the simple press of a button deselecting the A/C for longer wet trips in cool weather to defog like any other car that gives you a choice. That's a common issue with automatic climate controls, and not a problem as long as you don't allow it to be. My Fords without the automatic controls (and most other non-Japanese designed cars) are worse; you aren't allowed the option; A/C comes on with defrost whether you like it or not which clears the glass quickly but eventually fogs worse. I've driven both rear-wheel and FWD in ice and snow, and I feel very safe in my RX with appropriate caution, but it's not the drive of an AWD BMW. And I don't drive that weather all the time. It's true both designs could be improved upon, like any car. That's why there's a diverse market of brand-new cars (but not new $10,000 RWD).
I would check those service records to see if the transmission specifically was serviced (not flushed) and how often. It's not normally part of regular service. Or better yet, if the tranny was already replaced by Lexus. If not, see if the dealer will warrantee the powertrain, or there is enough room in the price in case it comes up sometime soon. The tranny's likely the weakest link, other stuff is pretty minor. As long as you're aware of it, you will be going in informed and likely not take issue.
Since you're asking and I'm on the subject, my biggest complaint (I'm the original owner of one of the earliest models) is a few buzzy rattles from plastic interior trim against glass or steel - changed by 2000 models, the soft, cushy handling (I prefer the more engaging drive of a sportier car) and although the RX can be shifted somewhat manually like any car with an automatic transmission, I prefer better control of the downhill and curvy-road shifts than the RX is designed to support (I'm a control freak, I guess).
There are a lot of cool features I really like about the RX which seem so minor, but you get spoiled. Like ALL FOUR one-touch "auto" windows and moonroof both open and close (with "pinch protection) that you usually only see on more expensive cars. And also on the remote built into the key. Press and hold the "unlock" on the remote built into the key, and it opens all the windows as you approach the car on a sunny day to vent the rush of hot air. And you can close all the windows and lock the doors simultaneously with the key in the drivers door. Really cool, little things, especially for sunny climates. And the huge sunroof that opens automatically 3/4 of the way, and a second push to fully open (but crack a rear window when it's fully open) for an open-air ride. And the real, full spare inside the car under the floor, rather than exposed underneath. And the rear seat that not only goes back and forth and tilts back, but also easily swivels down into the floor flat without taking up the space right behind the front seats. And I like the size of the "300" models, because I don't need a huge hulk of a car.
It sounds to me like it's a good deal as long as you cover your bases and go into your purchase informed. Look closely like you would any used car. Here are a few common things I'd look for: Is the rubber on the brake pedal worn (indicating lots of stop n go) or is it smooth (indicating it was so worn it was replaced or better yet the car was usually used for more constant drives)? Is the transmission fluid fresh and pink or burned smelling and dark (yes, check it)? Is there blue exhaust smoke when it's first started from ice cold? Does it start smoothly and easily without touching the throttle? Does everything work properly (including the remote locking at all four doors)? Was the power antenna bent by a tree so it binds when it goes up and down? Just some stuff common to any used car purchase.
Good luck and share positive or negative experiences with us.
It is crazy that you have to take the bumper facia off to remove the headlights. Whose stupid idea was that and what is the purpose?
I know the ballast fires momentary 20,000 volts to ignite the bulb. I will disconnect the battery, pull the 15A fuse, before even reaching for the bulb connector.
Thanks,
Joe
That would be nice, but.
Absent going to the dealer and having the appropriate c-best option set to other than the factory default the A/C compressor will ALWAYS engage, with NO indication to you of same, in ANY defrost/defog/demist mode, partial or full.
"..safe in my RX with appropriate caution..."
And therein is the "rub"...
Absent a serious level of experience or education specific to handling/driving dynamics of a FWD or F/awd they are/remain PATENTLY UNSAFE.
For me, appropriate caution involved installing tire chains on all four wheels of my '01 F/awd RX300 during/throughout our recent 10 day snowstorm.
See...
Post #188 in "Lexus RX300 Transmission Problems".
Reason I ask is, I have a 2005 RX330 with 84,000 miles on it. Went in for service last week and the dealer told me the front and rear brakes needed to be replaced. I ok'd it, but looking back on my records, I noticed that the rear pads were replaced at 59K miles -- only 25K miles ago. These are the only two times I've replaced the rear pads, which means this set lasted less than half as long as the first set. (By comparison, my fronts were replaced at 42K the first time, meaning the second set of pads lasted an equal 42K as the first set). This doesn't add up in my mind.
Please post to this thread how many miles you get on your rear pads.
Thanks!