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I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator and I have a problem with my rear brake lights. Only the top brake light works. The two on the sides do not work. Also my turn signals in back do not work and if I turn my hazards on the back lights do not come on. If I have my lights on the back lights work...just not when I am hitting the brake or using my turn signal. I checked the fuses and lights and they seem to be fine. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help
How did you check them?
My bet is you have two burned-out bulbs.
I have spoken to another '03 Aviator owner who had the same foul smell with the A/C. Can't believe that Ford doesn't know what to do about it, and won't even acknowledge now that there is a problem.
I hope you find a solution, and if you do, please share it with everyone on this forum.
cobrien
You might be able to put an end to this mystery by dropping a buck or two on new bulbs.
wrcav, "Lincoln Aviator Owners: Problems & Solutions" #466, 16 May 2006 9:53 am
There does appear to be a TSB on it - have them look it up.
Last visit to dealer ( 22,500 mi) for oil and tire rotation, I mentioned again that when parker straight, facing in and leaving for job, when I come out; 1) reverse /w straight wheels, then 2) turn wheel to left and as I accelerate and straighten out steering, there is a clunk sound and feel in the Left front end. Have mentioned this several times and reassured nothing found.. Well, after the last tire rotation and balancing, I note 'feathering' wear outer tread of Michelin tires both front and rear of driver side... the last time this happened was in a Ford Explorer '92 that I owned and it was a rubber bushing gone bad 2ry to being too near the exhaust manifold.. so I raised the question again and they (dealership) had it for 2 days w/o results...
And, while I'm here asked them about new 'rough shifting' aroung 40 MPH .. they assured me that this was common and to get used to it...
Help, please
I have an '03 Aviator with 51,000 miles (out of factory warranty of course) and I was traveling 75 miles an hour down the interstate when my car filled up with the smell of transmission fluid. Bout this time the car basically snatched me off into the emergency lane. It went to the shop who had it for (no joking) 1 month to the day it was taken in. They decided it was the differential system that needed replacing. Replaced that, got car back drove for 6 days same thing again. Car pulling to right bad!!! But now, when I put the car in reverse and turn the wheels to RT or LT the car comes to a stop as if I am applying the brakes. Back in shop, this time I was told it was the drive shaft vibrating that caused the seal to break in the dif. system. Fixed that. As far as the stopping in reverse and it pulling to the right, they said it needs an alignment and tires. The tires are not the right size. Mind you, even though I have not changed tire size. Take that to an alignment shop pay to have it aligned. Tire pros tell me the pulling to the right and the stopping is not the alignment. But is in the transfer case. The All Wheel Drive seemed not to be disengaging. Therefore causing the all all wheel drive to burn up in it because I can't drive it 75 miles an hour with the all wheel drive engaged. There was also a popping in the front when the wheels are turned to the right or left. Put back in shop, fixed, picked up and was told it was the steering joints needed some grease. Are there any ideas out there as to what could be causing the pulling to the right, and stopping when put in reverse and now recently a roaring sound when I let off gas to slow down?? Could someone please give me an idea as to what is going on!
I think the previous gen Mustang Cobras that also used the DOHC heads had the same problem if you're looking for evidence. Good luck.
Your 300HP engine 4.6 liter intech v-8 dual overhead cam requires eight seperate coil packs. Each pack is located under a plate which is a top of the cam covers. Or some may wish to say a top the valve covers. There held down by two 10mm bolts. Underneath you will find four seperate coil packs per side. 8 Total. The thin rubber gasket in time with heating & cooling causes the gasket to harden sometimes shrink. With this it has been noted that moisture could be alloud to condensate inside the coil pack area. I also seen in some cases where the cam cover gasket will also leak some oil into the spark plug boot area. Thus causing premature coil pack failure. If engine senses no spark or weak spark it will cut fuel, ultimately causing enging missfire. Code cyl 6,2,8 etc.. There is only one way To try to resolve problem. At The cylenders that are missfiring with coil pack covers off try pulling out each coil pack and look at boots for fatiuge moisture or oil. Any of wich will cause boots to become very brittle. So if during removal they fall apart chances are this will most likely be your problem. Electricity will follow the least resistive path to ground. IE internal cylender wall to spark plug. If boots appear to be good without any moisture or oil it still is a very probable that it may be a weak coil pack. The only way to find this I found is by having the engine running and @ operating temp. Preferably with the enging missfire at hand, with all coil packs and plug boots poped lose for easy removal and electricly active resting atop the spark plug for easy removal. Use caution high voltage but if done correctly can be accomplished with ease. 1st at cyl that has missfire carefully pull or slide the coil and boot together out of its wall by the electrical connector, the two wire plug that connects to coil. You will be looking for a strong spark. It Will look bright blue white. If dark orange red look to spark bad coil "weak spark". Next you can also hear spark jumping from bottom of boot electrode to top of spark plug. It will or shoud have a consistant smacking sound. These coils when good have the ability to throw a spark around two to three inches long with a bright spark. A weak one will throw little under a inch or less with orange red much duller spark. Or nothing at all. The reason for testing like this on engine is simply because if the coils had been bench tested, a bad coil may test well, and show proper resistances. However as a electronics engineer I can assure you that all resistances change with heat. Ex. heat expands and as the internal windings of the coil may have a break in one of the windings primary or secondary, And if the coil is cold the tolerances between the break may be so small there could actually be contact there. However once engine or coil pack gets hot it now test differently. The space or tolerance between the broken wire gets grater or further apart causing failure. Heat rises and there is alot of heat generated at the top of your particular engine where your coil packs are. Bad design? I have been an auto mechanic for some years and can tell you that It's good possibility that your problem sounds like coil pack failure. NOT LOW COMPRESSION in any cylender or bad head.. In fact I have never seen a 32valve intech V-8 cylender head go bad. Ever... I will have you know that 1997 & 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII's also had the same exact engine With 8 individual coil packs. I have repaired a few of these autos with the same complaint. Code reader indicates check for loss of compression. Cyl missfire. That was never the case. In all cases compression was well. Coils were bad. Most times coils go bad after engine pressure wash or detail for problems with gaskets metioned above. If you do not have smoke at the exaughst nor any water in your oil, which would look like milk shake if you were to pull out the dipstick, engine blow by, or over excessive pressure in radiator which would also cause antifreeze leakage, then I would say again, COIL PACKS... Hope this helps you and others out with same problem... PS: If it turns out to be the coil packs there around $43.00 ea. @ Autozone the ceapest. Good Luck... Hope you figure it out.
Honest Engine
Yes, it's a known problem and it would be nice if they extended the warranty to cover it. But don't expect other mfrs to go out of their way to cover something like this because they won't.
As for the Transfer Case, check the owner's manual. It will tell you if it needs to be serviced now or not. As for the Carbon Service - I assume it's an engine cleaning and the only thing it will do is remove the money from your wallet.
I drive a 2003 Aviator with 50k miles. "Tire Pressure: Sensor Fault" Is appearing on my dash screen. I took the car to my local Mechanic. He says the car may need to be calibrated and I need to take it too the dealer. The car is running ok, i have not noticed a change since this started flashing.
-alow
I am not too worried, I just want the damm message off my dash. I will take it too the dealer to see which sensor it is.
Has anyone experinced this problem. Could it be just a blow fuse?
-Alow
Ya think?
I don't recall reading any discussions of extended warranties on these beasts in the forum; in particular, Ford's ESP. Not cheap for the bumper to bumper plan. For 7 yr/75K, the local deal would like $2,000. With their none to stellar reliability, has anyone else checked the numbers on this type of insurance for the Aviator? Seems expensive, however, if you plan to keep the vehicle that long it wouldn't take much to run repairs up to $2K. The Ford plan doesn't need to be purchased until the standard warranty expires.
Thank You!
Does anyone know where I can see a diagram of the mechanism, access it, and fix it?
Any help, even speculation or experience on removing the console cover, would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Cathy in St. Louis
I took into AutoZOne. The reader came up with P0430 "the catalyst system efficiency for bank 2 is below threshold for the current engine operating conditions."
As anyone experienced these issue? Does anyone have a solution.
2003 Aviator.
-Alow
Recently experienced stange noise from near left front-end(might be right front-end).
when backing up down hill or going forward up hill after stopping with steering turned to the left or righr, there must be clunk.
It sounds like hitting gas tank with hammer.
Does anyone kown any solution to that in detail? like part # or something???
I took the vechile to the service center and they have no idea about it. still having the trouble. have you fixed it? if yes, please le me know what was the problem and TSB#. Thanx.