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Lincoln Aviator Maintenance and Repair

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    whitegs300whitegs300 Member Posts: 3
    I own an 03 Aviator Ultimate that has this horrible smell from A/C vents. Has anybody else experienced this problem? It is really bad. I have taken the car to the dealer 4 times to get it fixed and the first 3 times they said Ford is looking for a solution. The last time they said we have a fix, but the smell still there. Any suggestions?
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    wrcavwrcav Member Posts: 1
    Don't know if you got your answer here or not, but the problem is most likely the plastic molded piece on the inside of the hatch. It is "snapped" into place on the inside of the hatch. Ours popped off at the end and then a piece of molding around the edge came loose preventing it from snapping properly into place again. Resecure the molding and push it good until it snaps in. Our hatch would either not close without slamming or pop up unexpectedly. Hope this helps.
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    shanwaltshanwalt Member Posts: 3
    Hello Everyone,
    I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator and I have a problem with my rear brake lights. Only the top brake light works. The two on the sides do not work. Also my turn signals in back do not work and if I turn my hazards on the back lights do not come on. If I have my lights on the back lights work...just not when I am hitting the brake or using my turn signal. I checked the fuses and lights and they seem to be fine. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help
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    scootertrashscootertrash Member Posts: 698
    "I checked the fuses and lights and they seem to be fine."

    How did you check them?
    My bet is you have two burned-out bulbs.
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    The brake light and tail light are different bulbs. I'd have to agree that you have 2 burned out brake light bulbs.
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    cbriencbrien Member Posts: 4
    I also have an '03 Aviator that has a terrible smell coming from the A/C. I wrote in about it last September, (see comment #389 and the responses offered following it). I am still battling with the Ford dealer about this issue. We requested a meeting with the regional rep last Sept. didn't hear from him until January!! by which time the problem didn't exist as the A/C wasn't being used. He agreed to flag our file and revisit the issue if it came back with the warm weather. Just had the car in for service, (needed a new catalytic converter), mentioned the smell again and got the same 'could not duplicate concern' response from the service department I have had several times before. This car has had so many problems it is unbelievable, - has been in for service 29 times in 2 and a half years, has had steering cables replaced (twice), rear gate problems, electrical issues, and a new engine to name a few. Fortunately, all under warranty, but have just passed the 50K mark, and am now wanting to unload it before it has another catastrophic illness.

    I have spoken to another '03 Aviator owner who had the same foul smell with the A/C. Can't believe that Ford doesn't know what to do about it, and won't even acknowledge now that there is a problem.

    I hope you find a solution, and if you do, please share it with everyone on this forum.

    cobrien
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    shanwaltshanwalt Member Posts: 3
    I just looked at the fuses and the wire inside of it was not broken, so I figured the fuse was still good. Then I looked at the brake light bulbs (the ones attached to the liftgate) and when I hit the brake I still got nothing. I haven't had anything installed lately. I try to look at the wires today. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks for all your help.
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    scootertrashscootertrash Member Posts: 698
    "I looked at the brake light bulbs (the ones attached to the liftgate) and when I hit the brake I still got nothing."

    You might be able to put an end to this mystery by dropping a buck or two on new bulbs.
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    shanwaltshanwalt Member Posts: 3
    Okay... i bought two new bulbs and still did not work. So then I bought a stop light switch and I still have no brake lights or turn signals. Any other suggestions before I just take it to the dealer and have them take a look? Thanks again!
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Check your fuses.
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    nccrazynccrazy Member Posts: 5
    This should be treated by your dealer as a common problem. My dealer installed some sort of drying unit to the evaporator. The fan stays on a little longer to dry it out. They gave me no problems to fix it and seemed to know exactly what it was. Good Luck because I know how nasty it smells!
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    deasumdeasum Member Posts: 1
    i have had my 2004 avaitor into the dealership 4 times for same problem, the ac intermittently starts blowing warm air for approx. 10-15 seconds then goes back to cold, it does this every 5-10 minutes no matter what setting i have it on. It did not do this until lincoln service department "fixed" my ac due to bad smell, then this problem started. They kept saying problem could not be duplicated until this last time in the shop, now they are saying that its normal for the compressor to do this per the Ford tech. advisors. I have never had a vehicle do this, and im getting real fed up with the runaround i get from the dealership.... does anyone else have this problem?
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    bossman9bossman9 Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem with my 2000 Navigator. Found the problem to be the multi function switch. It's the switch on the side of the column that we use for the turn signals and wipers. Lincoln wanted $350 to replace it. I took it to a small Ford dealer and it cost me $150. Same parts are used in the Ford vehicles. Hope this helps.
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    bcoulterbcoulter Member Posts: 6
    I have a 05 Avaitor. In the past few weeks the rear lift gate glass portion opens up on its own while driving. At first I thought it was a fluke, but it has now happened 5 times. Any ideas what the problem is? I have had no problems with this Lincoln in 21 months of ownership.
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
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    bcoulterbcoulter Member Posts: 6
    Thanks,I will check this out. The hatch seems very secure and does not rattle when closed. Would this molding allow it to close and lock but still open on its own?
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    That's the way I read it but I'm not 100% sure. The service department should know.

    There does appear to be a TSB on it - have them look it up.
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    cinmancinman Member Posts: 1
    Hello group, I'm new to the forum (9/17/06) and have searched, but not found result for my question.
    Last visit to dealer ( 22,500 mi) for oil and tire rotation, I mentioned again that when parker straight, facing in and leaving for job, when I come out; 1) reverse /w straight wheels, then 2) turn wheel to left and as I accelerate and straighten out steering, there is a clunk sound and feel in the Left front end. Have mentioned this several times and reassured nothing found.. Well, after the last tire rotation and balancing, I note 'feathering' wear outer tread of Michelin tires both front and rear of driver side... the last time this happened was in a Ford Explorer '92 that I owned and it was a rubber bushing gone bad 2ry to being too near the exhaust manifold.. so I raised the question again and they (dealership) had it for 2 days w/o results...
    And, while I'm here asked them about new 'rough shifting' aroung 40 MPH .. they assured me that this was common and to get used to it...
    Help, please
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    myhotrod64myhotrod64 Member Posts: 1
    I am looking for any help possible on problem with 03 Aviator. We bought this truck with only 8,600 miles on it, now has 21,541 miles. The problem we have is that the accelerator peddle has stuck wide open on it 2 times now sence we have had it.Both times it has been in reverse both times.Upon talking to the original owner, this is the reason thay traded it in themselves.Have tryed talking to dealer but thay just say that there has never been any problem with acceleraters on any Aviators, and that there is no cables for the accelerator, so there is no way for one to get stuck.The last time it stuck, I found a cable going around the fire wall that had presure on it untill I touched it with my hand. It popped forward almost 2 1/2 in. and then the engine idled down to normal.The cable was the cruise control cable. Has anyone exp. this problem or know a fix for it...Please help....
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    mstarnes1mstarnes1 Member Posts: 1
    I am new to this forum. I have the same bad odor coming from my vents. But I need help with a much bigger problem.
    I have an '03 Aviator with 51,000 miles (out of factory warranty of course) and I was traveling 75 miles an hour down the interstate when my car filled up with the smell of transmission fluid. Bout this time the car basically snatched me off into the emergency lane. It went to the shop who had it for (no joking) 1 month to the day it was taken in. They decided it was the differential system that needed replacing. Replaced that, got car back drove for 6 days same thing again. Car pulling to right bad!!! But now, when I put the car in reverse and turn the wheels to RT or LT the car comes to a stop as if I am applying the brakes. Back in shop, this time I was told it was the drive shaft vibrating that caused the seal to break in the dif. system. Fixed that. As far as the stopping in reverse and it pulling to the right, they said it needs an alignment and tires. The tires are not the right size. Mind you, even though I have not changed tire size. Take that to an alignment shop pay to have it aligned. Tire pros tell me the pulling to the right and the stopping is not the alignment. But is in the transfer case. The All Wheel Drive seemed not to be disengaging. Therefore causing the all all wheel drive to burn up in it because I can't drive it 75 miles an hour with the all wheel drive engaged. There was also a popping in the front when the wheels are turned to the right or left. Put back in shop, fixed, picked up and was told it was the steering joints needed some grease. Are there any ideas out there as to what could be causing the pulling to the right, and stopping when put in reverse and now recently a roaring sound when I let off gas to slow down?? Could someone please give me an idea as to what is going on!
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    I'm not sure, but if you didn't have the work done at a Lincoln dealer I'd start there. If you did then I'd find a different dealer. You are aware that Lincoln allows 2 AWAs per vehicle (After Warranty Adjustments) where the factory and/or the dealer pick up part or all of the repair cost? You just have to ask and it's totally up to the dealer of course.
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    bradlmjbradlmj Member Posts: 5
    I have a Lincoln Aviator 2004 with 67k miles. I have a rough idle problem and misfires on cylinder 5 and 6. Took it to the dealer and guess what ? poor compression needs to have the head replaced. Called Ford to see if they would cover it and they stated they would not. I think the head problem is a design and/or manufacturing problem and intend on posting on every board I can find the problems that I have experienced. Estimated cost from the dealer to repair is $ 4k. I am very disappointed in this supposed luxury vehicle. First, you have to live with losing money on the vehicle when you buy it new and then face problems that Ford does not acknowledge as their problem at serious expense to you. I will not buy another piece of junk from Ford/Lincoln ever again and will discourage everyone I meet from making the same mistake I have.
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Did you ask the dealer about an AWA (After Warranty Adjustment)? This is soley at the dealer's discretion and Ford will cover some or all of the expense. Lincoln offers 2 AWAs per vehicle but it has to be initiated by the dealer.

    I think the previous gen Mustang Cobras that also used the DOHC heads had the same problem if you're looking for evidence. Good luck.
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    bradlmjbradlmj Member Posts: 5
    thanks for the advise.. I am thinking about going to a reputable shop in town and having them do it if the cost is significantly different. I don't want to give Ford any more of my money. Once I get it fixed I am selling it for sure. I have read a few other post concerning the same problem and even the dealer mechanics acknowledge a problem. No wonder Ford is having so much trouble these days. I owned a 68 mustang with a 289ci engine.. What a dream that car was. This SUV has been nothing but a nightmare. well, thanks again.
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    I understand the frustration but don't lump the older vehicles with the newer ones. The newer vehicles introduced since 2004 have proven to be almost bullet proof. I don't know what they changed but it's working. Doesn't help the ones like us that have a crappy Aviator, but I wouldn't rule out a future Ford just yet.
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    heyjewelheyjewel Member Posts: 1,046
    Sorry to hear the crappy Aviator stories. There seem to have been enough to go round. For once, I seem to have dodged a bullet as I went out to buy an Aviator, but it turned out to be too small for the family and we ended up with a 2004 Navigator which has been near perfect.
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    bradlmjbradlmj Member Posts: 5
    Found out today in talking to the after market shop that they can't do the work. To many specialized tools and too much difficulty. Also, I called the dealer about the AWA idea.. They said that they could submit for it through Ford.. I will hold my breathe on that one. Also, found out that there is a TSB 06-5-13 date: 03/20/06 that details this problem. Says if you have a check engine light and codes of multiple cylinder misfires to check the compression first.. Sounds like someone already knows what the problem is going to be. Yea right on your last post there akirby like I am going to buy another Lincoln --or Ford for that matter. Bullet proof -- ha.. Needs a bullet put the engine block more like.. Ford is going to keep going straight done the tubes selling products that can't even make it to 70k miles. All their competitors can make an engine that last longer than that.. I've learned my lesson..
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    honestenginehonestengine Member Posts: 1
    Hello, seen your problem thought I could be of some help...
    Your 300HP engine 4.6 liter intech v-8 dual overhead cam requires eight seperate coil packs. Each pack is located under a plate which is a top of the cam covers. Or some may wish to say a top the valve covers. There held down by two 10mm bolts. Underneath you will find four seperate coil packs per side. 8 Total. The thin rubber gasket in time with heating & cooling causes the gasket to harden sometimes shrink. With this it has been noted that moisture could be alloud to condensate inside the coil pack area. I also seen in some cases where the cam cover gasket will also leak some oil into the spark plug boot area. Thus causing premature coil pack failure. If engine senses no spark or weak spark it will cut fuel, ultimately causing enging missfire. Code cyl 6,2,8 etc.. There is only one way To try to resolve problem. At The cylenders that are missfiring with coil pack covers off try pulling out each coil pack and look at boots for fatiuge moisture or oil. Any of wich will cause boots to become very brittle. So if during removal they fall apart chances are this will most likely be your problem. Electricity will follow the least resistive path to ground. IE internal cylender wall to spark plug. If boots appear to be good without any moisture or oil it still is a very probable that it may be a weak coil pack. The only way to find this I found is by having the engine running and @ operating temp. Preferably with the enging missfire at hand, with all coil packs and plug boots poped lose for easy removal and electricly active resting atop the spark plug for easy removal. Use caution high voltage but if done correctly can be accomplished with ease. 1st at cyl that has missfire carefully pull or slide the coil and boot together out of its wall by the electrical connector, the two wire plug that connects to coil. You will be looking for a strong spark. It Will look bright blue white. If dark orange red look to spark bad coil "weak spark". Next you can also hear spark jumping from bottom of boot electrode to top of spark plug. It will or shoud have a consistant smacking sound. These coils when good have the ability to throw a spark around two to three inches long with a bright spark. A weak one will throw little under a inch or less with orange red much duller spark. Or nothing at all. The reason for testing like this on engine is simply because if the coils had been bench tested, a bad coil may test well, and show proper resistances. However as a electronics engineer I can assure you that all resistances change with heat. Ex. heat expands and as the internal windings of the coil may have a break in one of the windings primary or secondary, And if the coil is cold the tolerances between the break may be so small there could actually be contact there. However once engine or coil pack gets hot it now test differently. The space or tolerance between the broken wire gets grater or further apart causing failure. Heat rises and there is alot of heat generated at the top of your particular engine where your coil packs are. Bad design? I have been an auto mechanic for some years and can tell you that It's good possibility that your problem sounds like coil pack failure. NOT LOW COMPRESSION in any cylender or bad head.. In fact I have never seen a 32valve intech V-8 cylender head go bad. Ever... I will have you know that 1997 & 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII's also had the same exact engine With 8 individual coil packs. I have repaired a few of these autos with the same complaint. Code reader indicates check for loss of compression. Cyl missfire. That was never the case. In all cases compression was well. Coils were bad. Most times coils go bad after engine pressure wash or detail for problems with gaskets metioned above. If you do not have smoke at the exaughst nor any water in your oil, which would look like milk shake if you were to pull out the dipstick, engine blow by, or over excessive pressure in radiator which would also cause antifreeze leakage, then I would say again, COIL PACKS... Hope this helps you and others out with same problem... PS: If it turns out to be the coil packs there around $43.00 ea. @ Autozone the ceapest. Good Luck... Hope you figure it out.
    Honest Engine
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    bradlmjbradlmj Member Posts: 5
    thanks and I appreciate your time. However, please reference the TSB I stated earlier. The 5 and 6 cylinder under compression test are low. No other option -- cylinder head has to be replaced. Doesn't happen on every car but enough to put a TSB on. Ford will not stand behind their product. Seems like they had some bad heads get in the fleet and instead of sending out a recall they hope you will be out of warranty before it fails. I am done talking about this one.. Ford is sub-rate as far as I am concerned. You guys/gals take your chances if you want.. Thanks
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    The heads aren't defective - it's a design problem that only affects a small percentage of engines.

    Yes, it's a known problem and it would be nice if they extended the warranty to cover it. But don't expect other mfrs to go out of their way to cover something like this because they won't.
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    brianbevbrianbev Member Posts: 1
    I finally broke down and bought an error code reader to help diagnose the loss of power and stalling problems on my '03 Aviator. The code reader threw out 3 error codes, 0351, 0352 and 0354. The book says "Ignition coil primary/secondary circuit malfunction" on ignition coils A, B and D. does this mean I need to have the coils replaced or are there other problems, issues with these error codes? Thanks!!
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    laura12laura12 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Aviator. My dash lights have been flickering. I was told by the dealer's service that it could not be checked because they cant see the lights in the day(I dont think they would have told my husband this). Also, they are requiring Transfer case service and Carbon Service. Looking for some insight into what this will do.
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Can't help with the dash flickering. They can cover the sensor to make them come on in the daytime.

    As for the Transfer Case, check the owner's manual. It will tell you if it needs to be serviced now or not. As for the Carbon Service - I assume it's an engine cleaning and the only thing it will do is remove the money from your wallet.
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    a_lowa_low Member Posts: 5
    Hello All,
    I drive a 2003 Aviator with 50k miles. "Tire Pressure: Sensor Fault" Is appearing on my dash screen. I took the car to my local Mechanic. He says the car may need to be calibrated and I need to take it too the dealer. The car is running ok, i have not noticed a change since this started flashing.

    -alow
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    I assume you've checked the tire pressure. If so the dealer would need to use their diagnostic tool to see which sensor is bad and probably replace it. Since you're so close to the warranty period they may cover it.
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    a_lowa_low Member Posts: 5
    Thx akirby,
    I am not too worried, I just want the damm message off my dash. I will take it too the dealer to see which sensor it is.
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    a_lowa_low Member Posts: 5
    I have 2003 Avaitor. My heated & cooled seats button do not light up when pressed. My seats never heat up or cool down.
    Has anyone experinced this problem. Could it be just a blow fuse?

    -Alow
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    heyjewelheyjewel Member Posts: 1,046
    "Could it be just a blow fuse"

    Ya think?
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    95neonsport95neonsport Member Posts: 7
    Recently purchased a 2004 Aviator fully loaded (nav, DVD, ultimate trim package, class III towing). I read all the postings and had the vehicle carefully checked for the typical problems described in the forum. The Aviator was in great condition and the price was reasonable. The previous owner must have given it away on trade in. He probably lost 50% in devaluation, and that's for two years and 32K miles of use. I had the local dealer complete a 30K service and print out the warranty work recorded by Lincoln. The items were very minor. So, it's just the lousy 91 proof gas mileage at this point.

    I don't recall reading any discussions of extended warranties on these beasts in the forum; in particular, Ford's ESP. Not cheap for the bumper to bumper plan. For 7 yr/75K, the local deal would like $2,000. With their none to stellar reliability, has anyone else checked the numbers on this type of insurance for the Aviator? Seems expensive, however, if you plan to keep the vehicle that long it wouldn't take much to run repairs up to $2K. The Ford plan doesn't need to be purchased until the standard warranty expires.
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    baby_jobaby_jo Member Posts: 2
    Does any one know how to remove the back panel in the third row seating to look at the subwoofer? and does anyone know what size it is? i have a 2003 lincoln and i want to change the subwoofer in it cuz it was blown when i bought it. so any help will be appreciated.

    Thank You!
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    sconstan2sconstan2 Member Posts: 3
    I am brand new to this forum and just put my first posting up yesterday. (See posting under extended warrantys). I was told on a warrany service call this week that I should consider the ESP because the Avaitors are known to have this head problem. I thought he was making it up to get me to purchase the ESP, but, your's is the first posting I have seen that actually lends credence to what he said. Another person on the forum said it was true as well. I hope things work out for you. My 03 has 42K and I have treated it like a baby. So far, so good, but recently, had electronic problems, cracked body moulding on the liftgate, etc. I think next time around, I will go back to Toyota and BMW, but with college payments for kids, I am riding in this Aviator for at least two years.
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    cindillcindill Member Posts: 1
    2005 aviator lights flicker ford says its normal in the shop 6 times also foul smell from a/c
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    stlcathystlcathy Member Posts: 1
    Hoping someone still reads this forum and knows more about my SUV than I do. The center console has an 'ashtray / coin box' with outlet covered by a spring loaded hinge. The hinge doesnt work any more (I think my pug must have stepped on it)so it will not close.

    Does anyone know where I can see a diagram of the mechanism, access it, and fix it?

    Any help, even speculation or experience on removing the console cover, would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Cathy in St. Louis
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    ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    we bought an 02 explorer, and upon pickup noticed that the subwoofer cover was popped off on one side and needed to be replaced., when i called for service they said they needed it for 2 days because the 3rd row seat had to come out to get the cover off.
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    sir3sir3 Member Posts: 1
    HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM, WHAT WAS YOUR SOLUTION,I CHECKED EVERY ASPECT WITH NEG RESULTS, ALL OF A SUDDEN NO POWER TO THE HEAT/AC SEAT BUTTON,NO LONGER UNDER WARRANTY, HELP
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    a_lowa_low Member Posts: 5
    Went on a road trip this weekend. After about 400 miles of driving (with cruise contorl) the check engine light came on. I continued for another 600 miles to my destination and the car ran fine.
    I took into AutoZOne. The reader came up with P0430 "the catalyst system efficiency for bank 2 is below threshold for the current engine operating conditions."

    As anyone experienced these issue? Does anyone have a solution.
    2003 Aviator.
    -Alow
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    kiwicatkiwicat Member Posts: 4
    I have 4.225miles on my 2005 Aviator.
    Recently experienced stange noise from near left front-end(might be right front-end).
    when backing up down hill or going forward up hill after stopping with steering turned to the left or righr, there must be clunk.

    It sounds like hitting gas tank with hammer.

    Does anyone kown any solution to that in detail? like part # or something???
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    kiwicatkiwicat Member Posts: 4
    I recently have the same problem and it drives me crazy.
    I took the vechile to the service center and they have no idea about it. still having the trouble. have you fixed it? if yes, please le me know what was the problem and TSB#. Thanx.
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    glhendr1glhendr1 Member Posts: 33
    Looking at buying a 04 Aviator, 1200 miles, for 23K. Suppose to be a one-owner trade in; comes with 6 yr/75k warranty. I've read several reviews about the problems and engine noise but still interested because of the warranty. Please give me your opinion on whether or not you would recommend anyone buying this vehicle. True owners - knowing what you know now, would you still buy? Please respond soonest...
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    If you like the styling and the way it drives then I'd say yes. Some things to double check - the seat back adjustment is manual and there is no telescope adjustment on the steering wheel. And the tilt is also manual and not tied into the memory. Those things may or may not bother you, but you need to take that into account. Otherwise, if you like it go for it.
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