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Lincoln Aviator Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jasonn6jasonn6 Member Posts: 4
    Goggle this....
    Mustang Cobra head cooling mod

    You'll find a cooling mod that 99-04 mustang cobra owners with the SAME 4.6L V8 in our Aviators and they have elected to install it because of the drivers side head over heating on #7 and #8 cyl...resulting in low compression issues, ticking, ect..

    Although, who knows if it's the fix because I also read that the Exhaust valve is to blame? (maybe because its running too hot...since there is a cooling problem on only the driver side head, around #7 and #8)

    Lightning Force Performance is please to announce our Direct Flow Head Cooling Mod. The Stock Driver's side Head on 03-04 Cobra Mustangs (and most DOHC 4.6L Applications) runs hot. This is because of Ford's failure to provide adequate cooling to the #7 and #8 cylinder jackets on the driver's side head creating hot spots/steam pockets in and around the cylinders (aiding in potential detonation). By creating a direct cold path from the radiator to the hot cylinders, coolant flow in this area in increased dramatically. it like $118.95 and im not sure what the installation cost could be but prolly not too bad...

    hmmm....the plot thickens... imagine if the Aviator owners, the Mustang owners or any other owners of this 4.6L V8... got together and fought Ford to repair sad engines? uggg wishful thinking, i guess...?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    I'd say there is a decent chance it's the coil and not the head. Mine didn't throw a code. I also don't understand why the dealer would give you a warranty if they knew it was bad - unless they don't intend to honor the warranty.

    This problem is limited to the DOHC 4.6L engines and I still believe it only affects a small percentage of them. AWAs are hard to come by in today's financial environment but it won't hurt to ask.

    If you like your Aviator and want to keep it then the cooling mod is probably a good investment. Otherwise, ditch it and move on.
  • kendall8kendall8 Member Posts: 28
    _i have a 2003 with 40,000. What is a colling mod. Should I get one. I would like to prevent head problem. I want to keep the suv. What percent have head problems.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Hard to tell the percentage since only a small percentage of the failed ones get reported on the internet. The cooling mod is referenced in the posts above. Don't know anything about it but if I still had one and intended to keep it I would look into it.
  • abtrmanabtrman Member Posts: 35
    You make some great points.You think only one or two companies may engage in passing the buck along to the customer? I think you are way too trusting.While I don't see a conspiracy around every corner, I do see them. You need only read the myriad internet forums such as this one to know that it is more than just happenstance.

    I'm sure they "try" to estimate the cost of warranty repairs but I believe those estimates probably ignore the known issues.I believe the length of warranty is probably tied more to market forces causing a company to offer comparable coverages.Why do you insist on believing that the percentages are low? How could you know? But even if the percentage is low, It's 100% worth of a problem for those affected.

    As for them not being safety issues you are mistaken.Two of the five coils that went bad,failed while I was merging into freeway traffic.I was just lucky.As for the engine, I went from 70 mph in the fast lane,to 35 mph in the fast lane in rush-hour traffic.I wish you could have been there.Engine components failing at highway speeds sure sounds like a safety issue to me.

    Umm..Those playpen recalls were done voluntarily.Many companies do in fact recall old products other than those related to child safety.Mr.Coffee,Maytag dishwashers and torchiere lamps to name a few.

    Don't get me wrong,I'm not a Ford basher. We've owned seven! I'm just tired of the big guys giving the" business" to the little guys.We all work hard for the money and I just hate to have it unfairly taken, conspiracy or not.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    All vehicles have known problems. Some are due to design defects, some are due to material defects. Audi control arms are a good example.

    Do I think Ford should have extended the warranty on the heads? Yes, I think it would have been great customer service. They've done that with coils, COPs and most recently heater cores that were know to be defective.

    Do I think Ford should be REQUIRED to extend the warranty? Absolutely not. It's the customer's responsibility to research known problems and decide whether to buy additional warranty coverage, whether we're talking about cars or toasters or computers.

    I just don't believe that any mfr should be required to fix anything beyond the warranty period. Otherwise why even have a warranty period? Just force the mfrs to cover any problem for the life of the product.
  • flex7flex7 Member Posts: 2
    2004 Aviator 1yr out of warranty and 51800 miles on it. I didn't buy an extended warranty because I was buying "Ford Tough" and I knew I'd care for the vehicle and NOT put a lot of miles on it. Now nearing 52,00 miles and I'm faced with a new engine at about $6,000. Ford said "unfortunate" 5 times in the conversation and "customer responsibility" 4 times. He read the Ford extended warranty on the coils twice to me, but this problem is deeper that the coils. No, I don't think that Ford should be REQUIRED to fix it, but it's just plain wrong, and normal American buisness actions say that you right your wrongs. No more Fords, Lincolns or likely any other American made vehicle in my future. 52 thousand miles - just wrong!
  • aviatorguyaviatorguy Member Posts: 11
    I've been reading the thread on this... Very valid points for both the consumer and the manufacturer. No doubt, the current Ford customer base (as will nearly all customers of every type of product) re-evaluate their purchase, loyalty (or not) to the brand, initial cost, maintenance, etc.
    I'm not sure there's a right answer on this... and I'm not even sure legislation helps as much as we hope it should.
    I wonder if an "enhanced / prorated" dealer warranty would solve many (never all) of the issues cited in this discussion.
    Example: The dealer would provide a 4 / 50k bumper to bumper and then move to a 2 or 3 year "pay half" arrangement. That way, the line of covered / not covered does not end harshly and both sides end up winning / losing a bit - which would ultimate (one would think) encourage Ford to minimize component failures after the typical 4 year window...
    Just a thought... put some skin in the game for everyone...
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Ford already has such an arrangement. It's called an AWA - After Warranty Adjustment. It requires participation from the dealer and either Ford and/or the Dealer pick up a portion of the cost. But it's up to the dealer to initiate and support and I've heard the recent cost cutting has reduced the payouts. Lincolns used to qualify for 2 (1 for Fords and Mercurys). You might want to discuss this with the dealer if you're in this situation.

    I don't see how this warranty situation is any different from warranties on any other products like TVs, iPods, cell phones or toasters.
  • abtrmanabtrman Member Posts: 35
    I was just notified that Ford has agreed to replace the entire engine,not just the head.I have to say,they have been great about the whole deal.They didn't even request service records.Is this due to the extended warranty?,a known defect?,or just great service? Or perhaps a combination of all three?

    The service rep. said the heads had been redesigned but I can't confirm that.So in two weeks I will be on the road again.For how long,who knows.The moral of this story,If you are not comfortable with the quality of the manufacturer,but it's the only thing in your price range,then budget for the extended warranty.It could save you thousands.
  • abtrmanabtrman Member Posts: 35
    I like your idea.I would like to see a firm percentage ratio as you describe.An A.W.A is a crap-shoot at best.You are at the mercy of the dealer and the manufacturer.You are correct that having some skin in the game makes everyone a bit more careful.In my business,when fault can't be determined,I always offer to split the difference.It shows you are willing to share the hurt equally.

    There is no way a company could know of all defects,but we've all heard of companies covering up known problems.Defects that arise later are still their fault.They need to own up to it,make it right,and keep us as customers.I pay more at businesses that offer good service but I will not pay anything at a business that give poor service.
  • dlaradlara Member Posts: 1
    i have a problem after i start my truck up. i cannot get it into gear. iv bypassed it by opening up the access panel on the drivers side floor console but i have to do that everytime i turn on my truck. plus i dont have brake lights now since this problem. :confuse:
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Sounds like the brake pedal switch - that turns on the brake lights and turns off the brake-shift interlock feature.
  • waamanwaaman Member Posts: 15
    It is definitely the stop light switch behind the brake pedal. The replacement is used for the Explorer and Aviators. This switch also controls the interlock mechanism for the gear shift. If the light don't work then no gear release. They work in conjuction.
  • terry645terry645 Member Posts: 16
    My '98 Mark VIII has NEON tail lights which incorporates a ballast. If the ballast
    goes out, you have no tail lights & it also locks up your gearshift.
    You have to wonder what these guys were thinking when they designed these cars!!!
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    There is a reason they stopped making both of them.......
  • abtrmanabtrman Member Posts: 35
    After four weeks I thought today would be the day,but alas,no Aviator today.Delayed by the likes of one o-ring somewhere in the equation.Looks like tommorow.The gear shifter part isn't available untill April.I guess more than a few have failed.More to follow.
  • abtrmanabtrman Member Posts: 35
    No car today,engine has been replaced but during the test drive,he noted harsh shifting and and torque converter noises! I had the rear-end replaced already.The additive was supposed to fix the harsh shifting.I haven't had any tranny problems until now.Before too long the entire drive train will have been replaced.
  • abtrmanabtrman Member Posts: 35
    Was told today that the torque converter and solenoid will now have to be replaced.Should be done on wed.I've kind of forgotten what the car even looks like anymore.Oh well just glad things are still moving forward.Can't say enough about the dealer though.I've lost some faith in Ford but the dealer has sure salvaged some of that faith.
  • mack337mack337 Member Posts: 1
    Hi you guys doing so im a new owner of a 2005 Aviator! Let me cut to the chase, when i start my car and put it in drive and start to go my truck stalls even with gassing it ,it wont move all of the sudden my ABS light turns on, My traction control turned off and the flashing AWD LOCKED light flashes.... than my car runs normally after but only in RWD ??? its kinda weird some mechanics are tellin me its mechanical others say electrical ??? HELPPPP :mad:
  • abtrmanabtrman Member Posts: 35
    edited February 2010
    The owners manual says you can use the SETUP to check the status of the AWD system.The AWD is supposed to disable itself but still allow for two wheel drive.It could be mechanical AND electrical.I would guess that the ABS light is coming on due to the stalling and not the AWD issue.In any event you know what you have to do now.See the dealer.....pay the dealer.Good luck.
  • abtrmanabtrman Member Posts: 35
    It's back.It runs good.New engine,torque converter,solenoid body,rebuilt rear end,and eventually and new gear shifter.It's like having a new car.With a lot of history.
  • abtrmanabtrman Member Posts: 35
    Follow up,the manual says that even during a malfunction,the you can lock the AWD.That's the AWD LOCKED signal that you are getting,but unless you totally deactivated the AWD,you should still be in AWD,not rear wheel.The manual has a series of scenarios that you should read.Like using AWD LOCKED on dry pavement is not recommended.And overheating can trigger a temporary situation.
  • terry645terry645 Member Posts: 16
    Over the past 6 months or so, the car has developed a really annoying humm or whine and I can't tell where it's coming from...wheels, engine, rear end.
    It's just barely noticeable at low speeds (25-35), but once you hit 50, it's like standing next to a 100 hp electric motor. It tends to ease up around 65-70, but it
    may just be that it's being masked by road noise.
    Anyone experienced this??
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Differential. There was a service program or TSB about it. Check with the dealer.
  • terry645terry645 Member Posts: 16
    OK...thanks
  • aviatorguyaviatorguy Member Posts: 11
    Over the past month, whenever I run the AC and direct to rear of vehicle, there's a constant clicking sound (about once a second) coming from inside the driver's side rear panel (below the lock/unlock button). Oddly, even if A/C is selected by I change the temp control knob to part heat, it stops. All cold (blue) it starts again. I'm thinking there's some type of control / actuator / door or something inside there that regulates air / temp flow that is either stuck, broken or off its track.
    Any assistance or thoughts would be appreciated - or advice on how to take off some of the larger rear plastic pieces in that area.
    Thanks - David
  • ckorch06ckorch06 Member Posts: 2
    edited May 2010
    i bought my 03 aviator for 10,500 on march 20th. i Went to ford warranty's .com ( i guess it is troy-ford.com) and purchased the 2yr 24k extracare warranty from them for 1580 bucks. today my check engine light came on and i bought it to ford.
    was told misfire on #8 cylinder they would have to tear the engine down to find out the cause. that #8 had a 70% loss in compression. the service lady said since i only put 2k miles on the car since i purchased the warranty that ford might not cover it. Does this sound right. she told me that if they tore the head down and found it not covered under warranty that i would have to pay 1800 bucks to put it back togather? Should this be covered under the ESP? that is why i bought it.
    She also said that they will not cover a rental car even though my ESP says it does. she said it will be three days before i find out if it is covered then they could issue me a rental.
    If someone could tell me my next step to take i would love you for it. i just paid 10k dollars for a car i can't drive and from what they say it will cost me 2k more just to get it back in the same shape.
    I bought this car from a local chevy dealer and they said i bought it as-is with no help from them. Kinda why i opted for the ESP i guess.
    also to get the ESP the chevy dealer had to go through a checklist for used cars that said everything was fine at 105k miles it now has 107 almost 108k
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Assuming that's a Ford warranty, your dealer is wrong. First of all - there's no guessing as to the problem - this is the infamous bad head problem with low compression on #8 and it does require the head to be replaced. It doesn't matter if you had the warranty for 2K miles or 10 feet - you should be covered (again assuming it's a Ford warranty). If you're not getting the coverage listed in the manual go to the service manager or the owner or call the Ford ESP number - or just take it to another dealer. Sounds like yours doesn't know what they're doing.
  • bostoncigarbostoncigar Member Posts: 23
    This is crap. See my earlier posts on this problem. I am two years out of my Aviator which I loved and am now driving a Lexus RX-350 because Ford did a lousy job with me regarding this known problem with the engine. I am a 5x Ford owner and I walked and tell everyone including Ford's CEO what a lousy job they did with this engine problem. If the car is under 50K, it is a easy warranty problem. If it is out of 50K and you were stupid like me and did not buy the extended warranty you have to fight Ford. The dealer can come up with about $1500 and the zone rep another $1K towards the $5500 engine rebuild. Now that Ford is earning a profit.. they should care less. Ironically, when they were bleeding red, they shoved me under the bus and now I tell everyone not to buy a Ford!
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    So you're now driving a Toyota product - the same company that denied in-warranty claims on sludged engines? At least Ford isn't blaming customers for manufacturing defects and denying valid warranty claims. Or lying in court and covering up safety problems.

    Every mfr has known defects that occur after the warranty period (see Audi control arms) and no company covers these defects out of warranty all the time. Some do (including Ford - extending warranty coverage on coils and heater cores e.g.). But it's certainly not something that should be expected. Otherwise it would be a lifetime warranty against defects which nobody offers.
  • ckorch06ckorch06 Member Posts: 2
    well i told them to hold off on fixing the engine the service lady told me i should wait a few more weeks before they do anything so it won't throw any red flags and get denied. Yes it is a ford ESP called extracare. I had to wait cause with my job being really busy right now i can't go 3 days without a car while they decide whether it is covered or not. They said they can't issue a rental till head is taken off and they find the reason for the #8 failure. So you think i should maybe go to another dealer? i also had them check the whining noise the engine is making and they said it is the tensoner pully's and that they are not covered by my warranty. 200 bucks.
    so i told them i would just replace them myself tously ford only wants 60 bucks for the parts and i replaced some on my cobra not to long ago.
  • migavi1migavi1 Member Posts: 3
    The door sensor gets dirty and cannot work. Get a can of 10W40 lubricant and spray the door lock mechanism making sure that in goes all the way in. It worked for me. Good luck.
  • aviatorguyaviatorguy Member Posts: 11
    edited May 2010
    Just completed a front brake job on a 2004 Aviator. As far as brake jobs go, not too bad.
    A couple of thoughts / tips for those wanting to tackle. I hope I didn't forget anything, but probably did...
    - If you're just looking to replace the front pads (i.e no turning rotors, bleeding, etc), it's pretty simple
    -- (safely jack up the vehicle)
    -- Remove the front wheel lug covers
    -- Remove the front wheels
    -- Raise hood / open brake fluid reservoir
    -- Prep caliper hanging tool (coat hanger)
    -- Remove 2 small (upper / lower) caliper bolts
    -- Work the caliper off of the caliper bracket (this was a bit of a pain and took a few minutes of rocking back and forth)
    -- Suspend caliper from hanger wire
    -- Slide out the inner and outer brake pads
    -- Spray rotors, caliper with brake cleaner
    -- Prep new pads by applying anti-squeal grease on back plates and pretty much most non braking surfaces
    -- Slide in new pads
    -- Use one of the old pads and C clamp to press in both pistons on caliper
    -- Reposition caliper back over new pads
    -- Reinstall 2 (upper and lower) bolts
    -- Reinstall wheels

    The real fun begins if you want to remove the rotors. It's not hard, per se, you'll just need some strength and / or a good breaker bar.
    To remove the rotors
    - Remove the calipers and pads (see above)
    - Remove 2 large (upper and lower) bolts on the back side of the wheel assembly
    -- I believe the bolts are 13/16"
    -- It took a heck of a lot effort from me, and the rental of a long serpentine bar with a nub on the end for a socket
    -- After removing the bolts... and the Caliper brackets (and some liquid refreshment)
    -- Remove the 2 locking washers on each rotor (I destroyed mine by bending the small flanges) Not too worried about them
    -- The rotors should come right off to be taken for turning or replacement
    -- Reverse the instructions (and you might want to consider purchase replacement bolts for the above) to complete the job.

    I'll look to do the rear brakes in a few weeks - and (hopefully) adjust the parking brake that's kind of worthless right now.

    Hope this helps...
    David
  • aviatorguyaviatorguy Member Posts: 11
    In doing a bit of reading regarding the adjusting of the parking brake, many are indicating the parking brake is adjusted by moving a star wheel connected to the rear brakes. This seems reminiscent of how rear brakes pads (drum) used to be adjusted - which moved the pads closer (or farther to / from the drum. We also used to drive the vehicle in reverse and brake fairly hard to set the rears as well.
    Diagrams also show what look to be small brake pads serving as parking brake pads so I'm a bit confused. What I think I want to do is take up some of the slack in the parking brake cable.
    Questions:
    - Is there a way to take up the slack in the parking brake cable
    - Does my aviator really have 2 sets of different brake pads on the rear (caliper and parking brake?!?)
    - Ultimately will I have to adjust the parking brake "slack" by turning the "star wheels"
    This doesn't seem like a hard question or big undertaking, and am wondering if anyone can help.
    Thanks in advance -
    David
  • troy04troy04 Member Posts: 1
    I've read many posts on this site describing problems with the Aviator. I have owned an 04 for five years. It has 60,000 miles on it. I haven't had any major problems with the SUV, but I'm concerned about keeping it after reading about all the problems, especially the known engine issues. I do not have an extended warranty on it. I'm wondering if it would be better to sell it before something does go wrong with it that will be expensive to fix. Does anyone know, how many of the Aviators have the engine problem? Thanks
  • fordsnomorefordsnomore Member Posts: 5
    I might consider it for parts.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    We traded ours in for an Edge after the warranty expired, but we were looking for better ride quality and fuel economy also. If you think you want something new this would be the time to ditch the Aviator. If not then the odds are probably good that you've dodged the bullet on the head replacement after 60K miles.
  • waamanwaaman Member Posts: 15
    I have an 03 Aviator with 104K on it, yes 104, and it is still running like a new SUV. I did have the rear bearing replaced at 103k because of a grinding noise in the rearl. You have to keep it well maintained. Oil changes for the engine, the transmission and the front and rear drive boxes must be done on it scheduled maintenance. I forgot to mention that I am only on my 2nd set of tires.
  • dls10dls10 Member Posts: 2
    edited June 2010
    We were cleaning the interior of our 04 Avaitor today, while cleaning the shifter the pin in the shifter head broke off. It seems that there is a little pin that connect to the button to engage the release for the shifter.

    So I have a meeting on Monday morning and while picking him up at the Airport I can explain that my shifter is broken, and I have it taped up and now its working like some type of backyard fixit man.

    Anyway, my question is has anyone ever had this happen to them before, I'm wondering if its hard to fix, if I can take the console out and get to the linkage and do it myself or do I need to take it to a shop and let them do it.

    By the way, I've had this car since 2006, great car never had a problem with it other than a vaccum line popping off and now this.

    110,000 miles runs great and I love the car.
    2nd set of tires here also
    Can anyone provide some feedback here?

    DLS
  • aps337aps337 Member Posts: 2
    You're right, every company has their issues, but it's how they deal with them. You're right Toyota did that, but they came around and put extended warranties on those cars with engine sludge. They've put 15 year warranties on most of their trucks for frame rust issues (this is a multi-thousand dollar replacement). That's similar to this issue it seems ( I don't know the numbers since I'm not an insider ). As to the safety issues and SUA, pedals, etc. Let's leave that for another thread.

    I think you're missing the point, no one here expects that the car is going to need nothing over the course of hundreds of thousands of miles, but when you spend 50k (or even 20k) on a vehicle, you expect (and I think it is reasonable too) that you are not going to incur a major replacement during the first 100k miles, and that if you do, you were unlucky.

    That doesn't appear to be the case here.

    -Adam

    -Adam
  • keithwbloomkeithwbloom Member Posts: 1
    We're in the same boat. Same circumstance. I was cleaning shift lever and lifted knob to clean leather shift boot and 'snap!' – $900 repair order. Shift lock linkage is plastic rod. I am going to attempt to remove it and repair it with epoxy and some thin fiber wrap and wire (backyard fixit man plus) and perhaps wrap the break in a think wire bind as well. It appears that there are several mm of clearance all around the rod when inside the lever, so I am thinking it is worth a go if it saves $900 (dealer in VA quoted $660 for part—whole shifter assembly—and approximately $200 in labor. I am presently looking for an assembly/disassembly guide online to aid in center console adventure. Will post or email you what I find if you are still looking.

    KWB
  • hatethiscar1hatethiscar1 Member Posts: 23
    We purchased a 2004 Lincoln Aviator in 2005 from a Ford Dealership and added an extended warranty to 75,000 miles. Many, many items were fixed under warranty. But when the 75,000 warranty expired in 2009 the hell began. In MAR 2009 we replaced all tires and had a front-end alignment. By AUG 2009 the front 2 tires were worn to metal shreds. I thought the tires were defective and demanded new ones from the tire dealership. Found out real reason was because of defective ball joints that we had to have replaced. The car was still driving rough and making a whining noise. On NOV 2009 the engine and cabin became engulfed with smoke and my 17 year old was almost killed on a busy CA freeway. The car was towed to a Ford dealership that had never seen this type engine damage in ANY Ford…especially a Lincoln. They had to repair front-end differential, twice. Then by DEC 2009 the car developed the SAME problem and we took it to a different Ford dealership. I had obtained the email address to Alan Mulally, the President of Ford. and FMC sent an “engineer” to “inspect” the car. They replaced a defective hose to the steering column, fixed an OIL LEAK in the BLOCK (under 100,000 miles) and replaced the radio that would blare full blast when turned down…but blamed the FRONT END DIFFERENTIAL problems on the 5 months difference in tire tread because we had to replace the 2 front tires. Since DEC 2009 the car cannot be driven over 55 mph or for any long distances. THEN the SHIFTING FROZE UP and when the mechanic opened the TRANSFER CASE he was shocked to see that FORD had used CHEAP KOREAN BEARINGS that had disintegrated and spewed metal shards throughout the transfer case. Another $3,000 repair. Then, just ONE WEEK LATER the U-JOINT broke!!!! We just got the car out of the shop on 6/16/10 and it STILL drives very rough. By sheer coincidence another 2004 Lincoln Aviator owner was picking up her car and had all the same complaints. Our Aviator just randomly developed a 5 inch hairline crack just below the liftgate exterior (that just randomly opens on it’s own while driving) and as I was following the other Aviator out of the shop parking lot I noticed that she HAD THE SAME CRACK on her exterior below the liftgate. I have filed a consumer report with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration and urge others to do the same. These cars are deadly. Problems are still ongoing and have caused us great strife. NEED A RECALL!!!!!!!!
  • hatethiscar1hatethiscar1 Member Posts: 23
    YES!!!! SELL THE CAR AND RUN AS FAR AWAY FROM A FORD AS YOU CAN!!!! KIDS ARE GOING TO DIE IN THIS CAR...MINE ALMOST DID!!!!!
  • hatethiscar1hatethiscar1 Member Posts: 23
    you won't even make it t0 80,000...sell it as quick as you can...FMC is run by a bunch of crooks...the Aviator is a very expensive Pinto...
  • jorie_4jorie_4 Member Posts: 6
    I definately agree, I have an 03 Aviator, have had to replace my transmission 4 times. Rear differential, the vacuum pump on the driver side, and now my car stalls and jerks whenever I put in drive or turn on my AC! I think something needs to be done about this, why did they discontinue this particular vehicle? What does Ford know that we don't? There has to be something we can do.
  • waamanwaaman Member Posts: 15
    I am sorry to hear that many of you had so many issues with your Aviator. I bought mine new in 2003 (The Kitty Hawk Edition) and I am still driving it with 104,000 miles on it. Towing of my boats have never been a problem. Replaced tires at 64K and probably ready for a new set. I had rear bearings and front ball joints replaced at 103,000. Routine maintenace is a must. Still rides like a dream.
  • hatethiscar1hatethiscar1 Member Posts: 23
    Please file a report with the NHTSA...this car needs to be recalled...it has almost killed my chirldren twice...
  • hatethiscar1hatethiscar1 Member Posts: 23
    ALL LINCOLN AVIATOR OWNERS...PLEASE DO NOT SIT HERE AND COMPLAIN...FILE A REPORT WITH THE NHTSA...THEY HAVE HAD MILLIONS OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE DANGERS OF THESE CARS. FORD MOTOR COMPANY COULD CARE LESS!!! I HAVE EMAILED MULALLY AND HIS GENERAL COUNSEL AND THEY BLAME ALL OF THESE ISSUES ON TIRE TREAD!!!!!!!!!! I AM GOING TO POST THEIR EMAIL ADDRESSES IF THEY DO NOT HELP US!!!!!! THEN YOU CAN ALL COMPLAIN TO "MOTOR TREND "MAN OF THE YEAR"....

    MOST OF THE PROBLEMS ARE CAUSED BY THE CHEAP KOREAN BEARINGS USED IN THESE CARS...WOULD NEVER HAVE FOUND OUT IF OUR MECHANIC DID NOT HAVE TO OPEN THE TRANSFER CASE TO REPLACE THE SHIFTER...AFTER REPLACING THE FRONT END DIFFERENTIAL 4 TIMES IN 3 MONTHS...THEN THE AXLE FELL OFF 1 WEEK LATER!!!!!

    THIS CAR IS AND ALWAYS HAS BEEN A LEMON...TO THE LUCKY FEW THAT HAVE NOT HAD ANY PROBLEMS WELL...YOU ARE THE LUCKY FEW!!!

    DO SOMETHING PROACTIVE!!!! WE ARE DRIVING VERY EXPENSIVE PINTOS!!!!!!
  • hatethiscar1hatethiscar1 Member Posts: 23
    PLEASE FILE A REPORT WITH THE NHTSA!!!!! THEY DO IT OVER THE PHONE. GOOGLE THE AGENCY. AVIATOR OWNERS NEED TO TAKE ACTION!!!! FORD ALREADY HAS MANY REPORTS FILED AGAINST THEM ABOUT THIS CAR...THE PRESIDENT OF FORD IS ALAN MULALLY AND HIS GENERAL COUNSEL, WHO IS A TOTAL JERK, IS DAVID LEITCH...CONTACT THEM AND KEEP COMPLAINING...WE CANNOT LET FORD GET AWAY WITH USING CHEAP PARTS ON A VERY EXPENSIVE CAR!!!! THESE CARS ARE DANGEROUS!!!!!!
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