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Mustang Cobra head cooling mod
You'll find a cooling mod that 99-04 mustang cobra owners with the SAME 4.6L V8 in our Aviators and they have elected to install it because of the drivers side head over heating on #7 and #8 cyl...resulting in low compression issues, ticking, ect..
Although, who knows if it's the fix because I also read that the Exhaust valve is to blame? (maybe because its running too hot...since there is a cooling problem on only the driver side head, around #7 and #8)
Lightning Force Performance is please to announce our Direct Flow Head Cooling Mod. The Stock Driver's side Head on 03-04 Cobra Mustangs (and most DOHC 4.6L Applications) runs hot. This is because of Ford's failure to provide adequate cooling to the #7 and #8 cylinder jackets on the driver's side head creating hot spots/steam pockets in and around the cylinders (aiding in potential detonation). By creating a direct cold path from the radiator to the hot cylinders, coolant flow in this area in increased dramatically. it like $118.95 and im not sure what the installation cost could be but prolly not too bad...
hmmm....the plot thickens... imagine if the Aviator owners, the Mustang owners or any other owners of this 4.6L V8... got together and fought Ford to repair sad engines? uggg wishful thinking, i guess...?
This problem is limited to the DOHC 4.6L engines and I still believe it only affects a small percentage of them. AWAs are hard to come by in today's financial environment but it won't hurt to ask.
If you like your Aviator and want to keep it then the cooling mod is probably a good investment. Otherwise, ditch it and move on.
I'm sure they "try" to estimate the cost of warranty repairs but I believe those estimates probably ignore the known issues.I believe the length of warranty is probably tied more to market forces causing a company to offer comparable coverages.Why do you insist on believing that the percentages are low? How could you know? But even if the percentage is low, It's 100% worth of a problem for those affected.
As for them not being safety issues you are mistaken.Two of the five coils that went bad,failed while I was merging into freeway traffic.I was just lucky.As for the engine, I went from 70 mph in the fast lane,to 35 mph in the fast lane in rush-hour traffic.I wish you could have been there.Engine components failing at highway speeds sure sounds like a safety issue to me.
Umm..Those playpen recalls were done voluntarily.Many companies do in fact recall old products other than those related to child safety.Mr.Coffee,Maytag dishwashers and torchiere lamps to name a few.
Don't get me wrong,I'm not a Ford basher. We've owned seven! I'm just tired of the big guys giving the" business" to the little guys.We all work hard for the money and I just hate to have it unfairly taken, conspiracy or not.
Do I think Ford should have extended the warranty on the heads? Yes, I think it would have been great customer service. They've done that with coils, COPs and most recently heater cores that were know to be defective.
Do I think Ford should be REQUIRED to extend the warranty? Absolutely not. It's the customer's responsibility to research known problems and decide whether to buy additional warranty coverage, whether we're talking about cars or toasters or computers.
I just don't believe that any mfr should be required to fix anything beyond the warranty period. Otherwise why even have a warranty period? Just force the mfrs to cover any problem for the life of the product.
I'm not sure there's a right answer on this... and I'm not even sure legislation helps as much as we hope it should.
I wonder if an "enhanced / prorated" dealer warranty would solve many (never all) of the issues cited in this discussion.
Example: The dealer would provide a 4 / 50k bumper to bumper and then move to a 2 or 3 year "pay half" arrangement. That way, the line of covered / not covered does not end harshly and both sides end up winning / losing a bit - which would ultimate (one would think) encourage Ford to minimize component failures after the typical 4 year window...
Just a thought... put some skin in the game for everyone...
I don't see how this warranty situation is any different from warranties on any other products like TVs, iPods, cell phones or toasters.
The service rep. said the heads had been redesigned but I can't confirm that.So in two weeks I will be on the road again.For how long,who knows.The moral of this story,If you are not comfortable with the quality of the manufacturer,but it's the only thing in your price range,then budget for the extended warranty.It could save you thousands.
There is no way a company could know of all defects,but we've all heard of companies covering up known problems.Defects that arise later are still their fault.They need to own up to it,make it right,and keep us as customers.I pay more at businesses that offer good service but I will not pay anything at a business that give poor service.
goes out, you have no tail lights & it also locks up your gearshift.
You have to wonder what these guys were thinking when they designed these cars!!!
It's just barely noticeable at low speeds (25-35), but once you hit 50, it's like standing next to a 100 hp electric motor. It tends to ease up around 65-70, but it
may just be that it's being masked by road noise.
Anyone experienced this??
Any assistance or thoughts would be appreciated - or advice on how to take off some of the larger rear plastic pieces in that area.
Thanks - David
was told misfire on #8 cylinder they would have to tear the engine down to find out the cause. that #8 had a 70% loss in compression. the service lady said since i only put 2k miles on the car since i purchased the warranty that ford might not cover it. Does this sound right. she told me that if they tore the head down and found it not covered under warranty that i would have to pay 1800 bucks to put it back togather? Should this be covered under the ESP? that is why i bought it.
She also said that they will not cover a rental car even though my ESP says it does. she said it will be three days before i find out if it is covered then they could issue me a rental.
If someone could tell me my next step to take i would love you for it. i just paid 10k dollars for a car i can't drive and from what they say it will cost me 2k more just to get it back in the same shape.
I bought this car from a local chevy dealer and they said i bought it as-is with no help from them. Kinda why i opted for the ESP i guess.
also to get the ESP the chevy dealer had to go through a checklist for used cars that said everything was fine at 105k miles it now has 107 almost 108k
Every mfr has known defects that occur after the warranty period (see Audi control arms) and no company covers these defects out of warranty all the time. Some do (including Ford - extending warranty coverage on coils and heater cores e.g.). But it's certainly not something that should be expected. Otherwise it would be a lifetime warranty against defects which nobody offers.
so i told them i would just replace them myself tously ford only wants 60 bucks for the parts and i replaced some on my cobra not to long ago.
A couple of thoughts / tips for those wanting to tackle. I hope I didn't forget anything, but probably did...
- If you're just looking to replace the front pads (i.e no turning rotors, bleeding, etc), it's pretty simple
-- (safely jack up the vehicle)
-- Remove the front wheel lug covers
-- Remove the front wheels
-- Raise hood / open brake fluid reservoir
-- Prep caliper hanging tool (coat hanger)
-- Remove 2 small (upper / lower) caliper bolts
-- Work the caliper off of the caliper bracket (this was a bit of a pain and took a few minutes of rocking back and forth)
-- Suspend caliper from hanger wire
-- Slide out the inner and outer brake pads
-- Spray rotors, caliper with brake cleaner
-- Prep new pads by applying anti-squeal grease on back plates and pretty much most non braking surfaces
-- Slide in new pads
-- Use one of the old pads and C clamp to press in both pistons on caliper
-- Reposition caliper back over new pads
-- Reinstall 2 (upper and lower) bolts
-- Reinstall wheels
The real fun begins if you want to remove the rotors. It's not hard, per se, you'll just need some strength and / or a good breaker bar.
To remove the rotors
- Remove the calipers and pads (see above)
- Remove 2 large (upper and lower) bolts on the back side of the wheel assembly
-- I believe the bolts are 13/16"
-- It took a heck of a lot effort from me, and the rental of a long serpentine bar with a nub on the end for a socket
-- After removing the bolts... and the Caliper brackets (and some liquid refreshment)
-- Remove the 2 locking washers on each rotor (I destroyed mine by bending the small flanges) Not too worried about them
-- The rotors should come right off to be taken for turning or replacement
-- Reverse the instructions (and you might want to consider purchase replacement bolts for the above) to complete the job.
I'll look to do the rear brakes in a few weeks - and (hopefully) adjust the parking brake that's kind of worthless right now.
Hope this helps...
David
Diagrams also show what look to be small brake pads serving as parking brake pads so I'm a bit confused. What I think I want to do is take up some of the slack in the parking brake cable.
Questions:
- Is there a way to take up the slack in the parking brake cable
- Does my aviator really have 2 sets of different brake pads on the rear (caliper and parking brake?!?)
- Ultimately will I have to adjust the parking brake "slack" by turning the "star wheels"
This doesn't seem like a hard question or big undertaking, and am wondering if anyone can help.
Thanks in advance -
David
So I have a meeting on Monday morning and while picking him up at the Airport I can explain that my shifter is broken, and I have it taped up and now its working like some type of backyard fixit man.
Anyway, my question is has anyone ever had this happen to them before, I'm wondering if its hard to fix, if I can take the console out and get to the linkage and do it myself or do I need to take it to a shop and let them do it.
By the way, I've had this car since 2006, great car never had a problem with it other than a vaccum line popping off and now this.
110,000 miles runs great and I love the car.
2nd set of tires here also
Can anyone provide some feedback here?
DLS
I think you're missing the point, no one here expects that the car is going to need nothing over the course of hundreds of thousands of miles, but when you spend 50k (or even 20k) on a vehicle, you expect (and I think it is reasonable too) that you are not going to incur a major replacement during the first 100k miles, and that if you do, you were unlucky.
That doesn't appear to be the case here.
-Adam
-Adam
KWB
MOST OF THE PROBLEMS ARE CAUSED BY THE CHEAP KOREAN BEARINGS USED IN THESE CARS...WOULD NEVER HAVE FOUND OUT IF OUR MECHANIC DID NOT HAVE TO OPEN THE TRANSFER CASE TO REPLACE THE SHIFTER...AFTER REPLACING THE FRONT END DIFFERENTIAL 4 TIMES IN 3 MONTHS...THEN THE AXLE FELL OFF 1 WEEK LATER!!!!!
THIS CAR IS AND ALWAYS HAS BEEN A LEMON...TO THE LUCKY FEW THAT HAVE NOT HAD ANY PROBLEMS WELL...YOU ARE THE LUCKY FEW!!!
DO SOMETHING PROACTIVE!!!! WE ARE DRIVING VERY EXPENSIVE PINTOS!!!!!!