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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    You are fueling at the same source 75% of the time. Perhaps the quality of fuel is olifin rich and detergent poor. Olifin rich fuel plugs injectors. Recommend a bottle of Chevron's Techroline be poured in an almost empty fuel tank while the engine is running rough. If the engine smooths out, then you know to purchase your fuel from a higher quality source. Higher octance does not necessarily mean a fuel that is NOT olifin rich. Wish you good luck at minimal expense.
  • Since you left out the post of the questions, I have to try:
    1. So with the pump in the tank, you must open the tank cap and put ear to it and try to hear the pump run on start up - yes- have another person turn it on and listen, is this correct?

    2. ok, so where is the switch that tells the pump to start because it it low pressure or is it always on if the key is in on position?

    3. Then each FI should have power for 2 seconds when key is turned on - can measure with voltmeter?

    4. What a hog - gets 8.5 mpg.

    5. If any difference in FI, then would cause engine to run poorly - runs just fine, smooth as silk.

    NEW

    6. I see the wires infront of the TB - is this just a pass through to the 2 FI?

    7. Computer must tell FI to run for 2 seconds EACH TIME the key GOES TO ON, is this correct and is this a seporate timer or a part of the computer that runs the car? Is the box bad?

    BTY: you have been very kind to help me, thanks. Bill.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    1. Not necessarily. The fuel pump should be heard in the cabin unless there is a lot of outside noise. I heard it in our 82 TC, hear it in our 94 TC, & 95 TB.

    2. No switch unless you consider it to be the ignition switch. I think it is always running after the ignition switch is "ON".

    3. I don't know if it can be measured with a VM. I never did that.

    4. Poor mileage if standing and letting the engine idle is not unusual.

    5. Runs smooth? O K. I understood it didn't do smooth. My mistake. Sorry.

    6.Don't know, can't remember back 11 years.

    7.The 2 seconds is to give the TB opportunity to inject fuel into the manifold and combustion chambers. The fuel pump usually runs while the engine is running.
    It could be a separate timer, but I would guess it's part of the computer that runs the car. I don't know or can't tell from here if the box is bad.

    Your very welcome and Good Luck.
  • literally all 4.6 liter town engine have tight shudder vibration at varying rpms; can be felt easily in neutral running rpms slowly up and down the 0-3000 rpm level or so...anybody know why? very disturbing, listened to some 30 different used cars..
  • 99 town car 'jumps' into first coming to a stop; LM has a bulletin on this but I cant get it; any ideas and/or solutions? nothing like the old 85 tranis....
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    So does the 5.4L Intech 32V. I don't know why either - but once I found out they all do it, I quit thinking about it. Until you brought it up.
  • so you are referring to the engine vibration, as i posted another on the tranis too; still a mystery isnt it.....older ones with 180K plus sounds like &(*& and you wouldnt even drive them. how many miles do you have on yours? getting worse?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Mine has done it since the first mile I had on it - but no, it's not getting any worse. I have 33,000 miles on it. Love the engine, and as I said, I don't even notice it anymore. The power train has been flawless on my Navigator, I really like it.
  • I have a 95 Signature series that just went in for Pa inspection and was told the frame is rusted and is not safe to drive. Just bought the car two months ago.
    The car is roomy and love the seats. Just went and purchased a 94 Executive and the interior doesn't seem as roomy as the other car and the seats aren't very comfortable.
    I have nerve damage in my back and the seats are important. I admit I was too quick to buy this one,but is has a new inspection.
    Has anyone heard of the frame rusting so bad with on ly 127,000 miles and it was a one owner car. I also had the brake lines all repaced due to rusting and now this.
    Any comments will be greatly appreciated.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    First - mileage makes little difference in rust, time and age does though. This car was evidently abused in some way for the frame to rust to that degree - it is not normal.

    Secondly, there is a big difference between the seats on a Signature and an Executive. The Signature seats are much better. Also, the 95 was a significant change in the interior of the Town Car, so there could be some dimension changes.

    If you have back trouble, a Signature would be better for you.
  • javbstjavbst Posts: 2
    I have a 99 TC that has an annoying shudder when increasing to highway speed and it settles back; I've had the tranny checked, np, once in a while the ridiculous 8 coil starter has been an issue in mystery shudders but can't see how that might affect this, otherwise its a much better car than my 99 seville, which even as new was the most horrible waste of money mankind is aware of- (a note to salesmen everywhere, yes, young urban professionals also buy large cars not just grandparents ) if anyone knows about TC shudders on a 99, let me know. :D
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Miles on your TC?

    My experience would lead to R&R ignition wires, plugs, fuel filter, o2 sensor, can of injector cleaner and replacing the fluid in the transmission and turbine.
  • javbstjavbst Posts: 2
    110,000 on it now, its a 99 ; Appreciate your input and will let the shop look at that.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Only at highway speeds? I was betting on a bad coil pack - until you said that....then I'm more likely to go with transmission or drive line out of balance.
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Check for worn, displaced or loose rubber in the engine or trans mounts.

    They may not be cheap to replace, but beat replacing a trans.
  • I had the same experience when speaking with the dealerships..new at this....I didn't want them to fix our problem, but perhaps head us in right right direction by advising a solution.It was a very negative learning experience for me... I called the LM customer service line twice and spoke to very enthusiastic reps...who assured me that they would pass my question along and someone would telephone me. I received an email saying that as far as LM was concerned they gave me a solution and the matter was closed! I emailed and detailed the exact question and that the customer service rep advised some one would call me with an answer! No one gave me a solution or any advice at all. The next email message stated that as far as LM was concerned they helped me as much as possible and this would be the last communication they would participate in!!!! I emailed back and told them, if this is their communication process, of just going back and forth without any technical suggestions, that I would re-think prior to purchasing another Lincoln and this THIS would be my last communication as a customer. I am amazed that a problem like yours would not be a technical challenge to the dealer service manager.How can they not be "at least curious" as to whats causing the problem? Thank goodness we found a good mechanic who replaced our EGR valve and an electronics guy who by-passed and re-wired our horn, lights, door switches, etc from the computer.
    It has been 2 months and we finally came up with a fix for our factory installed alarm that was going off at all hours. Good luck to finding your solution. I agree the dealerships su####!!
  • It's been over a month and our alarm system has not gone off!! The bypassed wires are working!!!! April
  • Anyone have an idea of the repair guide labor time required to remove and replace an intake manifold on '93 Sig TC 4.6L ?
  • really too many possibilities without hearing it myself....check for oil leaks on the ground under your car to see if trani is leaking or seals leaking too....other than that, need to drive it to pinpoint. do you know someone who you can count on to take a ride and pinpoint the geneal location first?
  • mjtmjt Posts: 2
    I have a 88 tc and the fuse for the lights that are behind the messgae center and climate control blows after I turn on the headlights. its a 5amp fuse and it does not blow right away. how do i track the problem. no lights pop just the fuse

    thanks
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    I dunno, but my '88 doesn't do that, and its for sale.... AND it has factory suspension!!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Upgrading, are we beernut?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Maybe he's stepping up to the 4.6 OHC in the '91. :D
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Nothing quite that romantic. Truth is that everything I own is for sale all the time. My neighbors think I'm crazy for parting with the Garage Queen, but it is just a car - a very cool car, yes, but just a car.

    The '88 has always been an extra and although I love it, I just don't drive it enough. Too big for the wife and my 16 year old is not interested (thankfully). The space it takes up needs to be used for something we can all drive. Something that they would have no problem driving that I've recently been attracted to is the '05/'06 Mustang drop-top. (let's see... 16 year old - Mustang rag... maybe not!)
  • An update!! It's November ....the alarm system has not gone off!!! The check engine light is finally out after 4 years...the bypassed wires are working!!!! April :)
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Omygod!!!! Not a MODIFICATION to a FACTORY system designed by an EDUCATED ENGINEER?!?!?!

    How can you sleep at night, poor April?

    (Sorry, banker... I had to say it.)
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Geez, beernut, what'd I ever do to you??? Besides, the engineer designed it right, the sub contracted parts were faulty!!
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Cool. I like that response! I'm just tossing it back and forth with you, nv. You're one of my favorite forum correspondents since I know if I throw you one you'll catch it and throw it back.

    Now, on the subject of modifying designed equipment; I'm in the construction business and my burden is trying to keep people from bastardizing the engineer's design during the construction/fabrication process. The spiralling trend is such that everybody knows the designer "over-designs" (safety factor here, safety factor there) stuff so they ("I've been in the business 30 years, blah, blah, blah...") decide on their own to go fast and cheap figuring the designer planned for that. Then the designer overdesigns more and the constructor feels he can modify more - and its all to our collective undoing.

    All of it, cars or buildings, needs to be done in an atmosphere of good judgment.
  • I recently bought a 93 TownCar Exec. I have noticed 2 problems with it, #1 the drivers side window does not go up and down, you can hear it click when you hit the button, but nothing happens. Is the problem the motor? #2, the wipers act crazy, like when you have them on full, they go maybe half and in some positions, they dont work at all. Is the problem more than likely the switch? Thanks in advance for any answers. I can work on cars a little and would like to fix this my self and save some dough.
  • gene42gene42 Posts: 11
    Todays newspaper reports that Ford has issued a recall because of a chafing battery cable that may cause fire. Anybody have more info on this? It applies to 2005 models of TC, GM, and CV.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The Power window needs disassembly to see what's broken in there. It's probably not the motor, but could be. Your windshield wiper problem is most likely indeed, the switch.
  • 82kat82kat Posts: 1
    Hey there new guy here. Question about the smog pump and connecting parts. The system has taken a dump on me and I want to know if I can bypass the whole system and still be able to drive the car. I had a problem with it the other day. The diaphram looking part near the intake burnt up and melted the hoses going to the a.i.r. valves. So I am left walking everywhere. Can I just plug up the exhaust connections,measure the belt routing without the pump and be able to drive it. I know this seems like a dumb idea but lack of funds is causing me to think this way. Besides I will be getting rid of it as soon as I get my income taxes next year. I want to bypass if it will work for now so I will not be going to work by means of walking in the snow here soon. Any help will be greatly appreciated. thanks 82kat.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You may be able to do as you suggested, but I'm betting you could go to a pick-a-part type place where you live, and for a few sheckles pick up the used parts you need by pulling them off another late 80's Town Car, and put them on yours with no muss or fuss, you could still pass smog in your state and inspection if applicable, and it would actually be easier than re-engineering the assembly. To answer your question, yes, the car will still run, and probably without a lot of damage even long term, but other things may also burn up without that cold air circulating where it's supposed to be. You will also, no doubt, totally accelerate Global Warming to the point that our polar ice caps will melt next year, and drown us all.
  • cytrcytr Posts: 1
    Situation: multiple exterior lights out / flashers don't work.

    1) the rear lights (both R&L) illuminate with the headlamps on, but with the brake depressed only the right sided bulb above the trunk goes on. None of the taillights above the bumper get brighter with the brake on.

    2) Neither front not rear turn signals blink/illuminate.

    3) The front driver's side running lights are out (the one on the outside part of the front quarter-panel and the amber light medial to the left headlamp.

    I thought I would start by inspecting the bulbs and the fuses. If they are OK, is there a way to tell if the flasher unit is bad or is it so cheap that I should just replace it? While there could be a short, I think tracking it down may be out of my depth...

    If the above doesn't do the trick, do y'all have any suggestions?
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Just a thought... what about the legal aspect of messing with enviro stuff?
  • kevinekevine Posts: 10
    Don't know if this is the solution but maybe it'll help: I've had trouble starting too (2000 TC w/30,000 miles) I've simply taken the key out and tried again and it works. I'm thinking it's something to do with the security chip in the key. Just a hunch though.
    good luck.
  • kevinekevine Posts: 10
    I own a 2000 Tc with 30,000 miles. Two problems I'm having are 1) The chrome is peeling away fron inside wheel and scraping on brake cylinder. (no big deal, I just have to trim it away I guess) 2) The catalytic converter is rattling. Sometimes I smell oil in cabin. Is this a common problem for this year and how much $$$ to fix?
    Thanks in advance.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I'm betting on burned out bulbs. Replace all that are not functioning correctly - may easily fix the whole problem.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Now that's a bright idea.

    (sorry, it was automatic) :)
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I know - couldn't resist. However in there somewhere is a possible fix for his problem.
  • Question #1
    Occasionally, when I start my 2006 Town Car, I get a beeping sound. It lasts about a couple of minutes and then stops.

    What the heck is it????
    Why does it happen???

    Question #2
    The vanity light on the sun visor(both sides)doesn't work . At the same time, the map light and the light on the rear doors seem to dim. Does this suggest an electrical problem?
  • royrroyr Posts: 2
    I have a 96 TC that is sick, and noone seems to be able to fix it.

    1st thing that happened is the intake manifold cracked, was replaced at a local dealership.

    Now it has developed a problem going down the road while basically cruising along. If the cruise is on, it slowly starts loosing speed on level ground, and begains to run poorly. Climbing a hill became a problem, no power, would stutter and fall on it's face.

    A local mechanic I trust installed new plugs, then two coils, and finally wires, with no improvement. After more test he decided the fuel pump might be the culprit and has replaced it. While this seemed to help some, it wasn't much. Climbing a hill was still a problem. No trouble codes are stored in memory, and he says the data stream looks good. He unplugged the mass air flow sensor and the car ran much better. So, today a new mass air flow sensor was installed, and while it now runs better up hills, on level ground it still wants to run poorly and will loose speed while the cruise is on. Will not climb a hill while the cruise is on, must use accelerator.

    I have been out $2000.00 trying to fix this car, and my mechanic tells me he doesn't know what else to do. Anyone have any suggestions? :confuse:
  • Hello. I have the exact same problem with my '97 cartier town car. It just came up two days ago and I have replaced multiple fuses and bulbs. Have you had any success, and if so what worked for you? Please advise...
  • Hello. I have the exact same problem with my '97 Cartier Town Car. It just came up two days ago and I have replaced multiple fuses and bulbs. Have you had any success, and if so what worked for you? Please advise...
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Take it to a specialist... a Lincoln dealer.
  • 95 TC, head lights go on and off radomly. Have replaced light switch, control module. Still a problem. Any suggestions. spradleyl
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 174
    I also had to replace the intake manifold on my 96 TC because of the now well known crack. It seems that your car was missfiring which fouls-up the oxygen sensors. The TC engine has four of these sensors in the exhaust system. Have the oxygen sensors checked.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 174
    I don't know about the peeling chrome. The catalytic converter needs to be loosened and readjusted. Normally, you should not smell oil in the passenger cabin. However, sometimes while adding oil to the engine, if some is spilled on the exhaust manifold, you may smell oil. If this is not the case, take a close look at the engine compartment to see if you can identify any fluid leaks.
  • ok ive had this problem for awhile and its really startin to drive me insane. on my 95 town car im hearing what sounds like a wind noise at the bottom of the dashboard up against the windshield. there are no leaks or anything, but the sound is soooo annoying. HOWEVER, the other day it did stop for like 2 days, but now it is making the noise again. i checked the entire climate controls system, including the vents, all sensors, everything, even the blower and the flap that moves when the climate control is active. everything checks out to be a-ok. so what is going on? is it may be the doors are shutting properly or what? the noise is coming from the driver side of the windshield and sounds like it stretches to about the middle of the windshield. i dont hear the sound on the passenger side at all. whats goin on?
  • Works and drives great except for annoying problem of randomly blowing instrument cluster fuse . I replace it and a few days later it blows again leaving me with out gages
    and speedo. Has anyone else run into this . Do I have
    to replace complete cluster ?
    Any help appreciated
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