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MINI Cooper Care & Maintenance

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Comments

  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    'A couple things about the screen instead of a solid piece:
    - does it cause the unacceptable heat in the car on a high-temperature day ( like 75 degrees or above). I live in San Jose (South Bay Area of CA) ?
    - does it bother the driver occasionally/frequently because the constant sunlight coming the glass/roof into the car ? or that through-light is minimal enough that it does not bother driver on most Sunny days."

    Yes, and sometimes, respectively to your 2 questions. The heat issue is real, especially after parking in the sun for awhile. And the Mini's A/C is not the most powerful unit around!

    The advantage of the mesh screen is that you can open the moonroof, but pull the screen shut. And you'd get the ventilation and extra light, but prevent leaves, cigarette butts and other debris from flying into your car.
  • morgan5morgan5 Member Posts: 13
    Carlover3,
    I had the same dilemma, I wanted a non-sunroof car, but since I was looking for a used 2006, I pretty much had to choose from what was available. In the end I got a great S with a sunroof. I did two things which addressed your concerns. First, I went to a tinting shop and darkened the roof glass, but it still got pretty warm during the summer here in Virginia Beach. Therefore, I then bought insulated sun shades (I believe it was from Mini Mania, check online catalogs) for the two glass roof panels. They are just like the ones you use to protect a dashboard, but these are sized to fit perfectly in the roof openings. They are held in place by the sliding screen.

    The shades work great, they keep out the heat (or cold), road noise and they are easy to remove and slide behind the driver seat when I want to open up the top. Although I was originally against the sunroof, I am glad I got one. Now that fall is here, there is nothing better than opening up the top during my daily commute.
  • wongkidwongkid Member Posts: 23
    See my post #115 on oil changes if you care about your car.
  • wongkidwongkid Member Posts: 23
    See my post #115 about oil changes if you care about your car.
  • bitsiesmombitsiesmom Member Posts: 1
    I have owned a 2006 Mini Cooper for just a few months. The other day, the warning lite for a possible flat tire came on. I didn't have a flat but the drivers side door wouldn't open from the inside and now is doing that sporadically. Yesterday the check engine lite came on, but did not come on today. I live in N. Michigan and it had been really cold when I had the door problem. Should I be looking for something else?
  • wilemakeitwilemakeit Member Posts: 17
    I am down here in Indy and have the same problem with the door.
    What I have found out the the latch on the out side does not release all the way.
    I have pull the leaver out and it works fine. This only happen when it gets cold and a little wet.
  • rlmiller9rlmiller9 Member Posts: 48
    I live in Florida where there are only two seasons, hot and hot as hell and I have the same issue with the door. Very frustrating, I have to roll down the window and open it from the outside or use the auto unlock. Been to the dealer once about it but the dealer is 50 miles away and I can not justify taking a day off of work for it.

    bitsies mom I have news for you, you have not purchased a 'high-quality' vehicle.

    Good luck though.
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    We have an '07 Cooper and about a month ago the check engine light came on, but went off after about 3 on/off cycles of the ignition. It hasn't come back on, the car drives normal, so I assume whatever condition triggered the light is no longer present. :)
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    We have had a recurring problem opening the passenger side door in our '03 Mini, but it's clearly related to very cold weather. It happens every winter, but only when the temperature gets below 10 degrees. The door cannot be opened from the inside or the outside. I suspect it might have something to do with the power locks, because when you try to open the door from the outside, the handle acts as if the door is locked. Has anyone else here experienced the same issue? Any ideas on how to fix this?
  • wilemakeitwilemakeit Member Posts: 17
    My did the same thing......What happens is the handle on the outside does not spring back. If you help it spring back you can get in and out of your car from the inside. I have not tried yet but I am going to use a dry lube and see if that helps.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Thanks much for responding, but it sounds like our car has a different issue. Our outside handle DOES spring back normally...just as if the door was locked. The good news is that the door is working again because it warmed up to 20 degrees where we are today. But I really would like to figure out a permanent fix as not being able to count on a working passenger door in extreme cold is a real pain. Anybody else have any ideas?
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    In addition to my previous post on the passenger door not opening in extremely cold weather, when the temperature gets close to zero, both the windshield and headlight washers stop working (sounds like our car really hates cold weather, eh?). I always use washer fluid that is suppossed to work to 25 below, and don't have the same problem with our other vehicles. You can hear the electric pump(s) trying to pump the fluid, but no fluid comes out. When the weather warms up, the washers start working again. Anyone else have the same issue?
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    That might simply be due to the nozzle openings being clogged with ice, or other debris.
  • ltqltq Member Posts: 28
    You might ask, how can ice form (see bodble2 answer) when I'm using -25degF washer flui? Well, I have seen high-methanol content used in washer fluids to achieve that selling point. However, when the weather is "warmer", or just over a long period of time even in the bitter cold, the methanol portion evaporates leaving the washer fluid right at the sprayer nozzle outlet, with low methanol content - Presto! Frozen fluid.
    You need to get the glycol-based fluid like Prestone. Unlike methanol, ethylene glycol will evaporate slower than the water portion, and therefore retains the anti-freeze properties at the nozzle. For exactly the same reason, this type of washer fluid will not re-freeze on your windshield (while the methanol-based ones do that, once the methanol evaporates).
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Thanks so much for your response, makes sense! Actually what happened was that the wiper washers started working again when the temperature went back over 20 degrees, but the headlight washers did not because one of the hoses on the underside of the hood blew off...I'm assuming from the pressure due to the headlight washer nozzles being blocked by ice.
  • rosie11rosie11 Member Posts: 6
    Took my 2002 Mini in for an oil change at a garage that often services the car but has not done an oil change. 103,000 miles. Usual cost at BMW is $80, today it was $25. I asked if they had used snythetic oil and they said a 'semi synthetic'. Does that make sense? Then they said the wheel bearings on front driver's side are "very bad". $280.00 approx to replace. Does this all make sense? I've used this garage many times before for the Mini. Do garages usually check wheel bearings when they do an oil change?
  • kitty15kitty15 Member Posts: 2
    I had about the same problem last week. Went to the dealer and they said the Intake Manifold had liquid in it. They cleared it and it runs fine now. I supposed extreme cold weather will make the water in the pipe to freeze.
  • joem5joem5 Member Posts: 201
    Semi sythetic is good :shades: ,believe in it.
  • ltqltq Member Posts: 28
    The MINI specifies FULL SYNTHETIC only. You should not be using anything else if you are depending on the CBS to tell you when to do an oil change. Period. If you change at 3K or 1.5K intervals regardless, then it would seem that semi-synthetic would do OK.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    I would be very suspect of any garage that puts motor oil in your car that fails to meet the manufacturer's spec without discussing it with you first. While I would agree with the other person who responded that semi-synthetic probably won't hurt your engine if changed much more frequently, if it were my car I would not take the risk. Do you know why Mini specifies full synthetic oil? It's very possible it's merely to extend the change intervals, but there could be other reasons that you are not aware of. One other thing, you did not mention that you have an "S" model with the supercharged engine, so I assume you don't, but if you do I would immediately demand they put the right oil in as a supercharged engine runs at higher tempatures that a full synthetic oil will withstand far better. Garages don't normally check wheel bearings with an oil change, but if the wheel bearings were that bad it's possible they might have heard something while moving the car, but if they were THAT bad chances are you would have heard something too. More typically you would have to drive the car at 30 MPH or more to notice a bad wheel bearing. You did not mention which bearings they replaced, but assuming they were the rear bearings $280 sounds outrageous...it may be time to look for a new garage!
  • polly4polly4 Member Posts: 1
    Purchased Mini S - new from dealer - 2006 ( Now under 20,000 mi). No major problems and maintance done by dealer. Recently had freon leak repaired by dealer. After repair have had problems with heat/AC system. Heater too,, too hot. Set at 70 blasts you out of car even at lowest fan setting. Also air system is at best now feeble. Just had car at dealer and they could find NO PROBLEM. Yeah right! Told them to keep car and drive it 'til they could diagnois problem - now have a loaner. Any suggestions as to what the problem may be?

    Polly1
  • joem5joem5 Member Posts: 201
    OK, Iv'e always have steered away from buying a MIni because of the trans missions problems and the repacement cost.
    However, I have not seen many models from 2006 with problems.
    Now which trans mission wll hold up better a six pd or a CVT.(Mini S)
    What warranty can you buy to cover trans mision for 5 years,or 50K?
    Also, can you get the mini w/o runflats?Lastly how do the Minis built today compare to the ones built from 2003 to now? :shades:
  • hc519hc519 Member Posts: 1
    Hi

    I know this question has been asked to death, but I don't know very much about cars and I'd really like answers geared towards my specific car/maintenance offer.

    I drive a 2006 cooper. Currently, I drive about 80 miles a day, but that will only be until march of 2010 (the job ends then), and then I will be taking the subway and not driving.
    I live in nyc so I won't be driving very much after march of 2010. The car currently has 54,000 miles on it. I am not an aggressive driver at all.
    Mini has offered a $2,000 extended maintenance for 50K miles or 3 years, whatever comes first.

    Is it worth it? Any thought are appreciated.
  • jenssp73jenssp73 Member Posts: 1
    Hello :)
    Could you tell me how much you paid for the freon leak repair?
    I am going to get mine repaired tomorrow and would love to know in advance how much this is going to cost me UGH
    Are you still having issues with your A/C?
  • astropupastropup Member Posts: 11
    I'm looking at a used 07 Cooper S with only 8000 miles at a non-Mini dealer. Are used cars still eligible for the maintenance program (was it even offered in 07) if they are still under warranty and within the mileage and year range? Thanks.
  • wilemakeitwilemakeit Member Posts: 17
    I bought my 06 S from a non dealer. The dealer has cover the work that was done.
    So yes you still get covered.
  • kragerkrager Member Posts: 8
    The black trim around the top of my new Cooper(less than 2 months old) is fading in areas. There is about a six inch strip on one side and almost that much on the other. The trim on my 2002 Honda looks better than the trim on the Mini. Is there anything to put on it as a treatment to protect and/or bring the color back. This is really disgusting considering the age of this car. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • pulax30pulax30 Member Posts: 2
    I'm looking at a 03 cooper S with 61,000 on it. What are some of the issues you guys have run across with the earlier models?
  • waschawascha Member Posts: 5
    I am new and would like to know if there is a response to re-setting the oil service on a mini s
  • mymemnimymemni Member Posts: 6
    I use One Grand E.R.V. (Exterior Rubber & Vinyl) dressing on my 03 Coop and the black trim looks like new. It restored from faded to black. after a few applications you can apply it less often. it will protect the trim from the white streaks you get when you wax your car and get some on the trim, I get it from www.carcareonline.com. Also use One Grand Blitz wax (pure hard carnuba with no abrasives or silicone) which keeps the finish looking like new and P21S body shampoo for washing and P21S gel wheel cleaner for that pesky brake dust.
    Carcare will tell you what you need and how to clean any thing on your vehicle, paint, rubber, vinyl, glass, upholstery etc.
  • rlmiller9rlmiller9 Member Posts: 48
    I would put away about 5k for the transmission when it goes.
    That might be lite.
  • wilemakeitwilemakeit Member Posts: 17
    I have a 06 with no realy big issues and a friend of mine has a 03 with 129k with very little issue
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    Anyone received a recall notice about defective a catalytic converter for 2007 - 08 Minis?
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Do you mean an automatic transmission? Are you sure it was properly serviced and fluid changed? If it's the manual trans, should be no trouble at all. We have an '03 MCS with over 100k miles and a manual trans, no trans problems at all.
  • pulax30pulax30 Member Posts: 2
    what kind of problems have you had? I've been looking into getting a '02-'04 MCS. All the reviews for the are great, but I've heard the first gen have some reliability issues and are expensive to repair.
  • bodble2bodble2 Member Posts: 4,514
    The chrome-finish ring that goes around the circumference of the key fob on our '07 Mini just cracked and is falling off. Does anyone know if that thing has any functionality, or is it just ornamental, and I can just rip it off?
  • extech2extech2 Member Posts: 120
    I'd like to know if the run flat tires on the Cooper S can be changed to normal tires without buying four new wheels as well. Another thing, is there room for a spare in the back of the S model ? Otherwise I might just get the regular Cooper, sometimes next year, when my VW GTI lease is up. Thanks for any advice.
  • wongkidwongkid Member Posts: 23
    Yes. It is no problem at all. I do not carry a spare because I carry a can of that flat repair/inflator and/or rely on the Auto Club if I get a flat. Depending on waht you buy, you will get better performance at a lower cost with traditional tires.
  • wongkidwongkid Member Posts: 23
    BTW - Check my posts # 132, 127, 74 on this. Probably some redundancies, but it's everythign I've writen on this topic.
  • wongkidwongkid Member Posts: 23
    See my post #147.
  • mini007mini007 Member Posts: 1
    Hello!

    I have the 07 Mini Turbo. I would just like to ask if it's wiser or better to have the dealership do the oil change? How many times do I have to do the oil change anyway? some say every 3-5k, some say 7.5k, some say ONCE a year is enough...I'm confused!

    Also, what are some tips on maintaining my turbo engine or the car itself? I would love to just keep this car till the end, and so I would really like to know how to take care of it. I heard that we don't have to worry about anything coz the computer on the car would let us know if there are any problems at all...is this true?

    THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ANY HELP!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd follow your owner's manual recommendations on oil changes and yes, you should take it to the dealer during warranty, at any rate, and simply resist any attempts to add unwanted services. "Just change the oil and filter this time around, please". Of course, a competent independent MINI shop could do all these services as well -- just keep all the service records and guard them with your life during the warranty period. I do not recommend "quick oil change" places for this type of car.

    For turbo engines, I like synthetic motor oil, due to superior performance under high heat conditions.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    I agree with everything you said, except I would point out that there is an advantage to the quick oil change places. It's best to change your oil after it's heated to full operating temperature, and that occurs only after 10-15 miles of typical driving. Optimally you want to drive 10-15 miles and have them pull the drain plug within 10 minutes or so before the oil starts to cool off. At anything less than full operating temperatures some of the sludge and other contaminents in your crankcase will still be in solid form and will not get drained with the oil. If you drop off the car at a dealer or elsewhere, the engine might cool for hours before they change the oil, and merely pulling into the garage from the parking lot before the oil change won't get the oil anywhere near it's full operating temperature. Granted most owners won't be that fussy about their oil changes, but if you want to get more miles out of your engine than most owners, it's a good tip.
  • wongkidwongkid Member Posts: 23
    See my post #115 about oil changes. Also, even though I've done it myself, be weary of quick-oil-change places on high performance/exotic cars - they can really screw things up and it is expensive to fix a stripped oil pan plug, undo the wrong type of oil, have the engine sieze because of an oil leak, etc, etc. I have also become a convert to the idea that ONLY the recommended manufacturer's oil be used in oil changes, and to never change brands, viscosity, etc. if you are "fanatical" about car maintenance (i.e.- want to keep the car forever). Strange things can happen to high performance engines that aren't pampered just right. NET: I'd do additional dealer oil changes (i.e. - more frequently than recommended), even if I have to pay for them. WWith synthetics, I'd do it every 5,000-7,500 miles, depending on wallet and compulsiveness.
  • eashleyeashley Member Posts: 8
    A big plus one on the oil change advice...i have had to replace the oil filter bracket, and ultimately, my oil pan, because of just ONE trip to a local outfit, for an oil change, to save the drive to the dealership. JUST ONCE! I change every 5,000 miles, at the dealer's, I see it as a good investment. I have 97,000 miles on my '03, and figure on a lot more, knock on wood.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    The only way to be sure that it's done right is to do it yourself. If you think having your oil changed at the dealer is "insurance", you may be kidding yourself. Not only might your oil be changed after the car has sat for many hours (see my post above), at many dealers the guy doing oil changes is a "C" level technician with no more experience than the guy working at Jiffy Lube! I was waiting for my car at the dealer one time when all of the sudden the repair bays filled up with smoke. Turns out the kid changing the oil on a customer's car forgot to drain the old oil first, so the engine had double the quantity of oil that it was suppossed to. Hopefully he did not blow out the oil seals! Another time I had a brand new model year car that took two extra quarts of oil versus the previous model years. The tech was not aware of it (and didn't bother to check because he was on "autopilot", and I happened to check my oil the next day to find it two quarts down! Also, At least at a quick oil change facility you can usually see and verify that the oil being put in your car is correct...few dealers will let you enter the repair area.
  • rlmiller9rlmiller9 Member Posts: 48
    Brava,
    Great post, many many people think they get more by going to the dealer, ie an toyota certified master mechanic will be working on your car and notice someitng while it is still little and fix it, yeah right.
    Also be advised that most dealer shops pay by the job or book rate so there mechanics are in a rush all the time.
    I prefer the salaried indis or do it myself. Doing it yourself does not save you and money, but you know it was done right I like to let all of the dirty oil drain sometimes I let it go for 30 minutes dripping.
    Also saves time, a trip to the dealer is a waste of half a day.
  • terumiterumi Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    New to the Mini forum. I just bought an 06 Mini Cooper S. Was detailing the inside. Looks like the previous owner, using the cup holder, spilled coffee all over the radio stack. I got a little happy with the windex, and now the passenger window doesn't work. Hopefully, when it dries out, it will work.

    In the meantime, if I have to tear into it, anyone have any idea of where on the internet i can download a free maintenance manual for the 06 mini?

    I don't know how many tricks there will be in getting that bank of switches out. So thought would try this first.

    Thanks!
  • wilemakeitwilemakeit Member Posts: 17
    I would check you fuses before you tear into anything. My pass window also stopped working. Now I found out that 10 of my fuses where wrong and had them replaced. Do you have the owners manual? if not send me a email at [email protected] and I will send you a PDF copy of it. Good luck
  • herodotusherodotus Member Posts: 2
    I am about to take delivery of my brand spanking new 2010 MINI hardtop. With every other car I've owned or driven, I've always gone for regular unleaded 87 octane gasoline as I (a) never really cared much about the car in question and (b) assumed that "premium" gasoline was a marketing scam.

    Now I'm about to be driving a car that I've been obsessing about for months and I wonder whether I should rethink putting "premium" gasoline into it. Advice / thoughts?
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